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Dart Tag 3k

My contest entry

13 replies to this topic

#1 louiec3

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Posted 14 July 2009 - 09:17 PM

First I would like to thank NiteWalker for the Dart Tag 3K write up I used some ideas from his and improved on them. Also, I would like to thank KingBouyah for his write up on draw back extension part of which is included on this blaster.

Now since thats out of the way onto the write up.

Materials
-Dart tag blaster
-AT3K tank and pump
-1/2" K&S Brass (you only need a little)
-3/8 drill bit
-7/64 drill bit
-6-32 tapping bit (same one from the +Bow)
-3/4" 6-32 screw
-epoxy putty
-1/2" PVC
-1/2" PVC coupler
-1/8" vinyl tubing or 3/16"
-hot glue gun/glue
-super glue
-Spring from a Pirate gun found in the dollar store
Posted Image

Steps

1) Open up the blaster and remove the plunger, plunger tube, catch, and the piece on the trigger that triggers
the catch. so it looks like this.
Posted Image

2) Take the turret remove the 5 screws and remove the air restrictors and the pegs. Thats so easy I'm not
putting a picture for it.

3) Dremel out the case to make room for the pump and the tank. Also drill a 3/8" hole next to the slide hole
just below the post with an extension spring on it. (it is in the picture so If that didn't make sense
Before
Posted Image
After
Posted Image
This would also be the time to do the draw back extension to the shell and the slide and nowhere else.
Here is the link to KingBouyah's
thread that explains it very well. It is steps 3 and 4.

4) Mount the AT3K tank in the shell with epoxy putty or whatever floats your boat. Then cut a piece of 1/2"
brass to a length of 1.6" and glue it on to the AT3K tank.
Posted Image

5) Now to fix the weak trigger situation. Take the spring from the pirate gun (which is in the dart) and glue it
onto the shell and trigger like so.
Posted Image

6) Cut the pump down to 5". Then glue on a 1/2" piece of 1/2" PVC onto the end. Then glue a 1/2" piece of a
1/2" PVC coupler on top of that. The finished product should look like this.
Posted Image

7) Now take the left half of the slide (the one with the metal rod in it) and your pump from step 6. Drill a
7/64" hole in the middle of the PVC coupler and about 1/10" away from the endge of the slide. The picture
will explain well.
Posted Image
Then tap those holes with a 6-32 tapping bit.

Part Two coming soon so wait to post. :P
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#2 louiec3

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Posted 14 July 2009 - 09:27 PM

Part Two...

8) Put the slide and pump in the blaster and connect the two with your 3/4" 6-32 screw. This is quite trickey to
screw in so just take your time.
Posted Image

9) Take the pump tube and secure it on to the blaster. I used epoxy putty, fbr, and hot glue and it is just fine.
Make sure the tab the connects to the tubing is pointing to the left of the blaster. IF you need to dremel the
shell.
Posted Image

10) Now for the hardest part linking the triggers correctly. I used music wire, hot gue, a drill, and A LOT of
patience. You need to make it so that the turret rotates to the correct position then opens the tank. I really
can't explain it much better but a picture is worth a thousand words.
Posted Image

11) All that's left to do is connect the tank and pump with the vinyl tubing and put the gun back together.

Posted Image

Ranges are 55-65.

Questions, Comments, or Flames for my first write up. :P
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#3 Blue

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Posted 14 July 2009 - 09:36 PM

I enjoyed reading it. Very clear. Your camera could use a little more quality though.
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#4 sublimedom777

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Posted 14 July 2009 - 09:41 PM

Overall this is pretty nice. Any specific reason you didn't make the pump tube internal? I get how it works but I think it might look a little nicer. This is just aesthetic ramblings I guess

Edited by sublimedom777, 14 July 2009 - 09:42 PM.

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#5 louiec3

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Posted 14 July 2009 - 09:54 PM

Blue- Thank you but my camera was from my phone because I don't have a real camera. :(

sublimedom777- I couldn't make the pump tube internal unless I flipped it around, and why do that because that
wouldn't let me pump it with the slide. Also, I've never been a person for aesthetics I just want
stuff to work.
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#6 sublimedom777

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Posted 14 July 2009 - 10:10 PM

I've never been a person for aesthetics I just want stuff to work.


Alas, this breaks my heart to hear. Form and function should go hand in hand, haha.

Anyway, I'm sure there's some way to still use the slide to pump. If I had the time/3k tank (just used my only "spare" to fix my 2k) I'd be trying this right now. Still like it though.

-Dom
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#7 aishihigeo

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Posted 14 July 2009 - 10:38 PM

Cutting the 90 degree plastic on the 3k fits tubing nicely, you just need to glue it in.

To protect the tubing and the pump, house them in a large piece of pvc and then create a stock.

Overall nice job
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#8 Kid Flash

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Posted 15 July 2009 - 01:41 PM

Reminds me a bit of this:

http://nerfhaven.com...wtopic=6856&hl=

But nice job on the mod.
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#9 koolon0

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Posted 16 July 2009 - 02:41 PM

Do you know were I can get a 2k cheap???
Don't cross the rode if you can't get out of the kitchen.

#10 white moonlight

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Posted 16 July 2009 - 02:49 PM

Great job now all it needs is a sweet paintjob.

Is this gun accurate?

Also is that paint on the trigger, and turret?

Edited by white moonlight, 16 July 2009 - 03:31 PM.

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#11 VACC

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Posted 16 July 2009 - 02:50 PM

Do you know were I can get a 2k cheap???


You're stupid. Go to the trading section and search.
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#12 louiec3

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Posted 16 July 2009 - 03:21 PM

white moonlight- The gun is very accurate except once in a while a shot goes randomly to the side. The turret and trigger came that way there is no paint on this gun.

Kid Flash- That is the original original Dart tag 3k NiteWalker made the original write up. I do thank Carrtoon who inspired NiteWalker who then motivated me to make this gun.

Thanks VACC for protecting this thread from more noobs.
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#13 Darth Tom

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Posted 18 July 2009 - 12:16 PM

Any particular reason why you had the ~2" of brass connecting the tank to the turret? If you just moved the tank up 2" and then added an o-ring on the end for a seal, not only would you see much better range but you'd also have more room to try a different pump configuration that doesn't hang out the back.

Edited by Darth_Tom, 18 July 2009 - 12:19 PM.

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#14 louiec3

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Posted 18 July 2009 - 12:46 PM

Darth_Tom- I used brass to connect the tank because it has been successful to me in the past,
and a did try other another method that didn't work
Posted Image
that way was too complicated and the seal wasn't good.
even if you did move the tank up to make room for the pump it would still stay in that stop if you wanted to still use the slide.
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