That’s really a shame, because it’s a really neat gun. It folds up into a little cube and unfolds to fire, and has a bunch of neat little gadgets all over it, like the light, the sight, and the four-barrel barrel selector.
But the air tank is tiny (considering it is not directly attached to the darts), the pump is tiny, and the trigger mechanism is so weak it’s nearly impossible to pull at anything other than stock, or so I heard.
So, how do you turn this thing into a useful gun, without destroying that which makes it neat? Completely rip out everything that makes it useless, of course!
Here I will be taking out the air tank, pump, and trigger, while leaving the barrel selector and all the electrics unharmed. This is not as big an undertaking as it may sound.
The problem is, since at least I made my own air tank, this pretty much boarders right on the edge of homemade and modification. You could use a tank from another gun, but it’d almost have to be from a Titan to see any viable ranges, it wouldn’t be as clean, and it wouldn’t have the quick connect system saving you from having to pump after every shot, which is one of the good possibilities with this blaster.
First, your supplies:
Left to right:
- 3/8” inner diameter tube
- ¼” inner diameter tube
- ¼” female threaded male pneumatic quick disconnect x2
- ¼” male threaded female pneumatic quick disconnect x2
- ½” to ¼” bushing x2
- ¼” barb to ¼” male threaded adaptor x3
- 3/8” barb to ¼” female threaded adaptor
- ¼” female threaded tee
- ¼” to ¼” male-male union x2
- ¼” female to ¼” female ball valve
- ¼” male 100psi pressure gauge (not shown)
Background:
- 1 ½” PVC pipe, 8 inches long
- 1 ½” PVC coupler x2
- 1 ½” to ½” PVC bushing x2
Other:
- Epoxy or plumber’s goop to seal the PVC pipes air tight
- Generic “epoxy all” epoxy, should be fairly runny but dries solid (to hold the brass to the PVC)
- Plastic epoxy
- Air seal thread tape (yellow)
Now, certain parts can obviously be substituted (such as, if you can find a 3/8” barb with a ¼” male thread, you wont need one of the unions), as long as the end result is something similar.
Also, one of the barbs and male quick disconnects goes on the pump you’ll be using, so the size of the barb may vary.
Here is how they all fit together:
Go ahead and break out your thread tape and tape them all together. Try to use wrenches that actually fit the parts, so you can wench them down solid.
Now take the brass bushing and quick disconnect (which should be one item now). Brush your epoxy-all epoxy onto the threads of the bushing and inside the bushing on your PVC pipe. Get a wrench and screw them together. You have to be careful, screwing too hard could strip the PVC thread, but not hard enough and you don’t get a seal.
Let that sit upright overnight. Trust me. But while that’s sitting, lets actually get down to the gun itself.
Take out the air system and carefully cut off the trigger and air tank from the rest of the system. Be sure to leave a little nub on the barrel selector, as we’ll be putting tubing on that.
While you’re waiting, now is a good time to figure out what barrels you want on your selector. The openings in the gun’s shell and barrels are just big enough for a ¾” PVC pipe, any bigger and the barrels will start bumping into each other or you’ll have too much dead space.
¾” is fine though, as micro-darts only use ½” CPVC, and arrows use ½” PVC. This gun wont support ballistic balls, shotguns of more than 3 shots, or rockets; unless you do some major remodeling, at which point you might as well just do a homemade.
The next part largely depends on what barrels you go with. You’ll have to gauge your barrel sizes with the size holes you cut in the orange sheets.
I did barrel #1 with an arrow, #2 with a 2-dart shotgun, and #3 and #4 with singled micro.
While you’re at it, epoxy the 3/8” tube onto the barrel selector and get it drying.
Should have everything setting right now, so let it sit and continue tomorrow.
The next step is measuring up the tubing to the shell. Figure out where you want the tubing to exit the gun and attach to the air tank, and where you want the ball valve trigger. Cut the tubing accordingly. Make sure you leave enough tubing for the air tank to attach properly. You’ll need enough for it to be a little flexible on the outside of the gun. Mine looks like:
Now, you can affix the tank permanently to the side of the gun, or you can use tube clamp(s) to hold it while it’s attached, and simply use a screw driver to loosen the clamps and remove it, like so:
And that’s all there is to this. Overall, it’s a lot of work, and probably not worth it, but it sure is fun, and makes a really menacing looking blaster.
Ranges vary by a LOT, for some reason, but it stays fairly accurate, except for the double-shot obviously.
Arrow: 30-75’
Double-shot: 20-30’
Singled: 30-100+’
