Posted 15 June 2009 - 08:28 PM
I've never done a real write-up before for this blaster, I think its fairly self explanatory. Let me briefly review what I did.
First off, you gotta cut down the shell. I used a dremel and a scroll saw to do this. Just cut in the general pattern that you see here, and remove anything that would obstruct the plunger tube. I suggest using a scrap piece of 1" thinwall to test for clearance.
You need: 1" Coupler, 1" to 1/2" reducer, 10" of SDR 21 (thinwall) 1" PVC, small metal bar or music wire.
To build the face, take the 1" to 1/2" reducer and look at how the inside is tapered at the end. Cut off that taper so there is a flat surface for the plunger head to contact, as shown below.
Then drill your little hole at the end for your dart stop. I use 7/64" music wire, you can do whatever makes you happy. Below
Done. Now grab up that coupler. There will be a little ledge in there that makes it so the pipe only goes in half way on both sides. Grind that out.
Ledge gone ^
Now, throw some glue on the reducer and hammer it into one side of the reducer. Take your 10" or so of thinwall PVC and do the same on the opposite side, making sure that the PVC goes all the way through and is touching the back end of the reducer. I messed this up the first time and it was a bitch to prime and got lower ranges.
You need: 3/4" Square nylon: Mcmaster #8732K13, 6-32 tap and #32 bit, 3/4" OD #6 washer: McMaster number 98264A100, aluminum spacer: McMaster #92510A700, Reinforced rubber washer: McMaster # 90131A104, 2" and 3/4" 6-32 screws, nylon or rubber spacers.
Mkay, this is a little more tricky. Get some square nylon, cut it to size according to how long your plunger tube is. Drill and tap one end for #6-32 screws. Then, cut the rubber washer down to fit the 1" thinwall, this is a little tricky, just be patient and measure carefully and you should be able to get a good seal. Then, put the aluminum spacer inside the washer, then assemble in this order over the 3/4" screw: 3/4" washer, rubber washer/aluminum spacer, 3/4" washer. Then screw that onto the plunger rod after putting your spring on. I used a cut down plusbow spring, McMaster #9637K26.
Then, drill and tap a hole on one of the sides at the opposite end. Put the plunger rod through the catch and into the blaster, then put your spacers on the screw and thread it through the hole. This will be your cocking handle.
Then, pull the plunger rod back, full draw, and mark how far the draw was on the rod. Then, take the spring off the rod and one half of the shell off. Place the plunger rod as far back as it went and look at where the catch is touching the rod. Cut your catch notch there. Then put it back together and test it. If it catches, good, if not, try cutting the notch deeper and/or more forward.
Then, just drill holes to put 2" 6-32 screws through in the back to attach the plunger tube to the shell, and throw some E tape on the front just for extra security. When its all said and done, you should get something that looks like this:
Ranges are similar to previous models, around 90 or 100 feet flat, however this one feels a lot sturdier than previous builds. This is likely the last version of this blaster, I am finally totally satisfied with its construction. Questions, comments, concerns?
Posted 15 June 2009 - 08:45 PM
Contact me for design consultation relating to 3D Printing, CNC Machining, and Laser Cutting. I am always happy to collaborate on viable Open Source projects and/or business ventures.
Posted 15 June 2009 - 09:22 PM
You could throw on a hose clamp instead of the e-tape.
...Or a zip tie.
A 1/2" wide black zip tie would look good, and be just as secure as a hose clamp.
Posted 15 June 2009 - 10:33 PM
Posted 15 June 2009 - 10:51 PM
Posted 15 June 2009 - 11:21 PM
<a href="http://nerfhaven.com...howtopic=20409" target="_blank">Make it pump-action</a>
Posted 15 June 2009 - 11:29 PM
Paint job will be dark blue with black accents. The e-tape will just blend right in then.
This gun seems to get better and better every time, props! My only suggestion is to paint the Pvc yellow, so it looks stock.
Nah. Just the shell is used. I had it in mods before, but this feels more appropriate considering all the functional parts are homemade.
Just curious but shouldnt this be in the modifications instead of homemades since its using a nitefinder?
Thanks rork. That was half the reason that I actually made this its own thread instead of just putting it on the pictures thread. I figured someone would find it useful.
Posted 16 June 2009 - 08:58 AM
It certainly does. Why it works, I will never know.
Does this use the Nitefinder's catch?
Posted 16 June 2009 - 09:21 AM
Posted 18 June 2009 - 04:27 PM
I beat my wife."
Posted 18 June 2009 - 04:31 PM
Posted 18 June 2009 - 08:53 PM
It's made of out nylon which is also the same material of the +bow plunger rod. That means that it is obviously stronger than the original plunger rod.
This is my younger brother's name, heheh. Anyway, how sturdy is that cocking rod? I know you said it was sturdy, but is it sturdier than the original NF cocking rod?
VindictivePancake~ "i've seen hot 10 year olds" - T2heavy
Posted 18 June 2009 - 10:57 PM
I believe I cut off about 8 or 9 coils. Just a guess though, I don't remember exactly.
How much of the spring are you using?
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