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Big Bad Bow Help


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#1 fatjokes jordan

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Posted 18 May 2009 - 08:44 AM

When I got my Big Bad Bow, I attached the arches and the wheels and everything. I want to mod it now so is there anyway to take them off without damaging the bow?

Thanks in advance
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#2 purduerocks

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Posted 18 May 2009 - 08:59 AM

When I got my Big Bad Bow, I attached the arches and the wheels and everything. I want to mod it now so is there anyway to take them off without damaging the bow?

Thanks in advance


Get a flathead screwdriver, and carefully slip it under the edges of where they attach. To remove the strings just take the gun fully apart and they slide out.
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#3 fatjokes jordan

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Posted 18 May 2009 - 11:49 AM

How do I remove the black parts that attach to the handles and sight? Do I use the screwdriver too?
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#4 X RUSHED X

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Posted 18 May 2009 - 12:15 PM

How do I remove the black parts that attach to the handles and sight? Do I use the screwdriver too?


That's what he was talking about.
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QUOTE(Hipponater @ Oct 7 2009, 05:34 PM) View Post

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#5 fatjokes jordan

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Posted 18 May 2009 - 12:17 PM

How do I remove the black parts that attach to the handles and sight? Do I use the screwdriver too?


That's what he was talking about.


Right...^^...sorry
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#6 fatjokes jordan

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Posted 18 May 2009 - 02:23 PM

Wait one last question, when I opened up my BBB, I was surprised to see another purple plastic "containment unit". I'm used to just opening up a nerf gun and see the orange internals. I have no idea how to open this and get to the internals, I removed the screws but its still not opening. Any ideas?
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#7 oh1134

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Posted 18 May 2009 - 02:31 PM

Wait one last question, when I opened up my BBB, I was surprised to see another purple plastic "containment unit". I'm used to just opening up a nerf gun and see the orange internals. I have no idea how to open this and get to the internals, I removed the screws but its still not opening. Any ideas?

The part that goes into the other side of the shell is glued. Just yank it open. However, you will only need to do this if you are improving the seal or replacing the spring.
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#8 fatjokes jordan

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Posted 18 May 2009 - 02:33 PM

I am doing both, :). Wait but the scope, (the orange part all the way at the back) is what keeps it together, how do I remove that?
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#9 WDoE

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Posted 18 May 2009 - 02:41 PM

Wait one last question, when I opened up my BBB, I was surprised to see another purple plastic "containment unit". I'm used to just opening up a nerf gun and see the orange internals. I have no idea how to open this and get to the internals, I removed the screws but its still not opening. Any ideas?

The part that goes into the other side of the shell is glued. Just yank it open. However, you will only need to do this if you are improving the seal or replacing the spring.


You don't even need to open the back portion to get to the plunger tube. You can replace the spring or improve the seal by taking off the plunger head (pull straight back, and twist. Don't pull side to side or you will damage the end of the plunger rod that the head attaches to," then take off the plastic washer, and the spring will come free.

There really is no reason to open the back of a BBB anyway. I did because I cut the strings, and the tiny rattling of the knotted ends still inside the gun was annoying, and I wanted the orange lens out of the scope. Yes, the trigger mechanism and actual catch are inside, but the catch spring is strong already. The weak catches that keep the two halves apart when cocked are in the front half.

I'd say just leave it closed and save yourself the trouble.

**Edit: If you still want to take the back apart, I would put a flathead screwdriver under the top of the eyesight and gently wedge it in, then slowly pull up. I slightly marred my plastic, but orange pieces are generally very resilient.

Edited by WDoE, 18 May 2009 - 02:45 PM.

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#10 fatjokes jordan

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Posted 18 May 2009 - 02:56 PM

Wait one last question, when I opened up my BBB, I was surprised to see another purple plastic "containment unit". I'm used to just opening up a nerf gun and see the orange internals. I have no idea how to open this and get to the internals, I removed the screws but its still not opening. Any ideas?

The part that goes into the other side of the shell is glued. Just yank it open. However, you will only need to do this if you are improving the seal or replacing the spring.


You don't even need to open the back portion to get to the plunger tube. You can replace the spring or improve the seal by taking off the plunger head (pull straight back, and twist. Don't pull side to side or you will damage the end of the plunger rod that the head attaches to," then take off the plastic washer, and the spring will come free.

There really is no reason to open the back of a BBB anyway. I did because I cut the strings, and the tiny rattling of the knotted ends still inside the gun was annoying, and I wanted the orange lens out of the scope. Yes, the trigger mechanism and actual catch are inside, but the catch spring is strong already. The weak catches that keep the two halves apart when cocked are in the front half.

I'd say just leave it closed and save yourself the trouble.

**Edit: If you still want to take the back apart, I would put a flathead screwdriver under the top of the eyesight and gently wedge it in, then slowly pull up. I slightly marred my plastic, but orange pieces are generally very resilient.


How do I improve the seal from there (I have a couple of O-rings)? Also, if I add another spring, will I need to reinforce the plastic washer?
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#11 WDoE

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Posted 18 May 2009 - 03:17 PM

Well, when the plunger head is off, you can do whatever you want with it. Just so you know, the BBB uses a fairly unique plunger head with no O-rings. I'm not sure If you can find a use for the O-rings. When you see it, you'll know what I mean. I've seen people cut down bulky head of it, I've seen people flip it over, I've seen people fill the lip with hot glue to press the lip out against the plunger wall. I would do some searching for yourself on this one. I can't say for sure which would be best.

I found that the seal was good enough to skip any of this. I didn't cut any off, and I left the disk portion of the AR in, cut a hole in the center, pushed the barrel all the way to that hole, and filled in the dead space with hot glue. If you cut up the plunger head, or remove the first part of the AR, your plunger head will travel too far, and leave the plunger tube and enter the large portion of the barrel, making a very annoying 'Plock' noise, and get slightly stuck.

You should reinforce the plastic washer, and luckily it is very head. I don't remember the washer size, but there is a metal washer that fits perfectly around the tab, but inside of the plastic washer. Get two of these, and sandwich them around the plastic washer. If you're going to glue them to the washer, you'll have to dremel slots into the washer matches the slot in the plastic washer, so that it can snap in and out of place normally.
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#12 fatjokes jordan

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Posted 18 May 2009 - 05:00 PM

Now that I'm done everything and have put it together again, I encountered a couple new problems.
1. Sometimes when I pull the handle back, it doesn't lock into place (This happened before I opened it, was wondering if there was any solution)
2. After shooting, the front part doesn't automatically retract like it used to
3. It's really LOUD! I know this is because I removed the AR but is there anything I can do about it? I can just imagine having a Nerf war and having everyone within 500m knowing where I am

Thanks in advance
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#13 StealthMan

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Posted 18 May 2009 - 05:02 PM

Now that I'm done everything and have put it together again, I encountered a couple new problems.
1. Sometimes when I pull the handle back, it doesn't lock into place (This happened before I opened it, was wondering if there was any solution)
2. After shooting, the front part doesn't automatically retract like it used to
3. It's really LOUD! I know this is because I removed the AR but is there anything I can do about it? I can just imagine having a Nerf war and having everyone within 500m knowing where I am

Thanks in advance



3) Add some silencing FBR.
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<!--quoteo(post=212906:date=Feb 16 2009, 06:30 PM:name=TantumBull)--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(TantumBull @ Feb 16 2009, 06:30 PM) View Post</div><div class='quotemain'><!--quotec-->I'm not ashamed to admit that I have tried to eat my stefans. They just looked so yummy.
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#14 alextwin007

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Posted 18 May 2009 - 05:03 PM

Make sure that you put everything back together correctly, this is a finicky gun to put together.
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#15 spartan062

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Posted 18 May 2009 - 05:06 PM

3. It's really LOUD! I know this is because I removed the AR but is there anything I can do about it? I can just imagine having a Nerf war and having everyone within 500m knowing where I am

Use some FBR or Great Stuff to fill much of the gun.
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#16 WDoE

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Posted 18 May 2009 - 05:38 PM

Now that I'm done everything and have put it together again, I encountered a couple new problems.
1. Sometimes when I pull the handle back, it doesn't lock into place (This happened before I opened it, was wondering if there was any solution)
2. After shooting, the front part doesn't automatically retract like it used to
3. It's really LOUD! I know this is because I removed the AR but is there anything I can do about it? I can just imagine having a Nerf war and having everyone within 500m knowing where I am

Thanks in advance


1. Did you put the two orange nubs back in the gun? They jut out as little circles when it is put together. Are the springs on them? If you lost a spring (like I did) a cut down portion of the original AR spring works. I think many different AR springs would work as well, like a Mav or NF. I'm not sure though.

If these pieces are missing entirely, the gun will not stay back. These are what lock the two halves apart. If they are missing the springs, or just one spring, it might fail to stay cocked.

2. I don't think it is supposed to automatically retract, although mine normally collapses after a shot because I push the two halves together while shooting. I'm not sure exactly what you mean.

3. If it is one loud bang- Stuff any dead space in the body of the gun with FBR. You can also try padding the plunger head with craft foam.

If it is a loud bang and a rattle- The spring is rattling around. You can use 3/4" of a 1/2" PVC coupler behind the spring to not only increase the range because it has a tighter compression when cocked, but also decrease the space that the spring can rattle, because it will always be slightly compressed, even when uncocked.
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#17 spartan062

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Posted 18 May 2009 - 06:03 PM

If it is a loud bang and a rattle- The spring is rattling around. You can use 3/4" of a 1/2" PVC coupler behind the spring to not only increase the range because it has a tighter compression when cocked, but also decrease the space that the spring can rattle, because it will always be slightly compressed, even when uncocked.

That would make the gun rather difficult to cock however.
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#18 fatjokes jordan

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Posted 18 May 2009 - 06:06 PM

Now that I'm done everything and have put it together again, I encountered a couple new problems.
1. Sometimes when I pull the handle back, it doesn't lock into place (This happened before I opened it, was wondering if there was any solution)
2. After shooting, the front part doesn't automatically retract like it used to
3. It's really LOUD! I know this is because I removed the AR but is there anything I can do about it? I can just imagine having a Nerf war and having everyone within 500m knowing where I am

Thanks in advance


1. Did you put the two orange nubs back in the gun? They jut out as little circles when it is put together. Are the springs on them? If you lost a spring (like I did) a cut down portion of the original AR spring works. I think many different AR springs would work as well, like a Mav or NF. I'm not sure though.

If these pieces are missing entirely, the gun will not stay back. These are what lock the two halves apart. If they are missing the springs, or just one spring, it might fail to stay cocked.

2. I don't think it is supposed to automatically retract, although mine normally collapses after a shot because I push the two halves together while shooting. I'm not sure exactly what you mean.

3. If it is one loud bang- Stuff any dead space in the body of the gun with FBR. You can also try padding the plunger head with craft foam.

If it is a loud bang and a rattle- The spring is rattling around. You can use 3/4" of a 1/2" PVC coupler behind the spring to not only increase the range because it has a tighter compression when cocked, but also decrease the space that the spring can rattle, because it will always be slightly compressed, even when uncocked.


I put the "nubs" in place but sometimes, when I pull back the handle, it just slides back and doesn't lock, this happens like 10% of the time. Also, would streching the spring work ?
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#19 spartan062

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Posted 18 May 2009 - 06:08 PM

Also, would streching the spring work ?

Hell no. Do NOT do that. You will get good results for the first 10 minutes. Then the spring will start to weaken. It will weaken to worse than before stretching.

Edited by spartan.062, 18 May 2009 - 06:10 PM.

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#20 WDoE

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Posted 18 May 2009 - 06:21 PM

The coupler doesn't make it much harder to cock. But I have a very strong draw from real bows, so I might not notice a change that would affect someone possibly younger or weaker. I didn't notice a huge change, but if it is a problem you could easily take it out.

I think you should definitely take your BBB apart and put it back together again making sure the two catches are perfectly aligned and the springs are in place. I'm not sure what else to say about that. Perhaps add stronger springs. I've never had a problem with a BBB failing to catch.

And on stretching springs, I'll always advise the same thing: DON'T! When you stretch a spring, it only stays stretched for a few shots, and then ends up weaker than before after returning to the original length. Springs will always weaken over time given regular use, but stretching springs (while giving a brief period of improved performance) will speed up the deterioration. Adding a spacer behind the spring will give the same results without drastically harming the spring.
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#21 fatjokes jordan

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Posted 19 May 2009 - 05:45 PM

One last last thing, is the plunger head made out of natural rubber? I'm asking because I'm planning on using Petrolium Jelly (aka Vaseline) on it and I read that Petroleum Jelly isn't good for natural rubbers
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#22 diamondbacknf1626

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Posted 19 May 2009 - 05:47 PM

One last last thing, is the plunger head made out of natural rubber? I'm asking because I'm planning on using Petrolium Jelly (aka Vaseline) on it and I read that Petroleum Jelly isn't good for natural rubbers


I wouldn't recommend using Vaseline in any gun. Go invest in a can of silicone lube, plastic and rubber safe. That should do the job.
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#23 Vengeful Waffle

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Posted 19 May 2009 - 05:49 PM

One last last thing, is the plunger head made out of natural rubber? I'm asking because I'm planning on using Petrolium Jelly (aka Vaseline) on it and I read that Petroleum Jelly isn't good for natural rubbers


I would advise against doing that.

See this topic: Link
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