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The Snapbow Mk. 4

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#1 rork

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Posted 04 February 2009 - 02:22 AM

It's been a while since I posted the original SNAPbow writeup, and since then, I've made improvements. Here's the new writeup, with pretty much everything you'll need to build your own Mk. 4 SNAPbow. Let's get started...

The New SNAPbow Mk. 4
Materials List:

Main Blaster Body:
1 Ό” Sch. 40 PVC: 1’
Ύ” sch. 40 PVC: 8”-ish
1” sch. 40 PVC: 2 Ό” or so
1/2” cpvc endcap
1” plug
1”/1/2” bushing
1 ½”x5/8” rubber grommet.

Stock (optional):
½” plug
½” sch. 40 pvc
½” elbow
½” T
½” 45 deg. Elbow

Trigger:
Clothespin
Roofing nail
1 ½” angle bracket
Small zip ties

Plunger Assembly:
Ό” PEX tubing (nylon rod would also work.)
2 1”x1/8” cotter pins
½” cpvc T, or the charging handle of your choice.
Ύ” endcap (curved is best)
Ύ” plug
3/16”x1 Ό” fender washer
3/16”x1 ½”x1/16” rubber washer
Ύ” #6 sheet metal screw
#8 finishing washer
Plusbow spring
1/8” ring of Ύ” pvc

You’ll also need #6 pan head sheet metal screws, in ½” and 3/8” sizes, electrical tape, Teflon tape, and hot glue.

Start with the 1” plug. Drill a ½” hole in the back, and another on one side, thusly.
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Wrap it in tape starting just below the side vent hole, then cut off the excess e-tape. It should slide firmly into the Pressure chamber (PC from here on). Drill a hole in each side, and anchor it with a couple of 3/8” screws. Drill a 1/8” hole 3 3/4” from the rear of the PC.
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Make a clothespin trigger (the pin should protrude about 1/8” into the PC), and glue your trigger into place.
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Mount a ½” cpvc endcap behind the trigger with 2 screws. Make a standard Boltsniper handle from 3/4 “ pvc, and screw it into place. You can get rid of any wobbling with hot glue/epoxy putty reinforcement. Add a trigger guard cut from 1” pvc.
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Drill a hole ½” from either end of the 1’ length of PEX. Drill a ½” hole in the center of the Ύ” endcap, and sand any rough bits off the endcap. Wrap the cotter pin around the PEX, and drop the shaft through the hole in the catchface.
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Glue the fender washer to the Ύ” plug, making sure it’s centered.
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Drill a pilot hole in the center of the plug. Mount the rubber washer thusly—do not over tighten the screw, or you’ll damage the washer. Cut a 1/8” ring of Ύ” pvc, and slide it into the endcap, followed by the plug.
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Now, if you want a stock (personally, I find it unnecessary): Mount your ½” plug on the rear of the PC with 2 screws, then add a stock. The stock should be slightly off-center (leaning to the left, for righties), so as to avoid losing skin to the plunger rod. (I’ll add pics later).
Wrap the 1”x1/2” bushing in e-tape, then in Teflon tape. Slide it into the PC. Drill a hole in each side, through the PC and the “lip” of the bushing. Remove the bushing, and force the rubber grommet into the back of it (to pad the plunger head).
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Add the Plusbow spring to the plunger, drop the plunger into the PC, then add the front bushing, and screw it down. Add a charging handle, and you’re done. I added a little foam to cover the opening in the trigger cover.
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Slap a barrel on it and brutalize your opponents. All required materials will cost you approximately $40, if you have nothing. You’ll need a hobby knife, a hacksaw, and a drill. You’ll also need a 1/8” bit, and a ½” spade bit. A dremel is handy, but not absolutely necessary. Same goes for a set of pvc shears.

This iteration of the SNAPbow features the following improvements over its predecessors:

-Slightly cheaper
-Lighter
-Easier to build
-Sleeker
-Lighter plunger, for more power.
-Improved seal
-Even-numbered Parts (uses exactly 1’ of pvc for the PC, for example)
-Padded bushing eliminates need for secondary washer, should extend plunger life.

There will be at least 1 on the field come SENO. If you want one built for you, PM me. I offer a number of options, including custom grips, individual parts, etc, starting at $40+shipping for a complete, basic model. ~Rork

Edited by rork, 04 February 2009 - 02:23 AM.

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<a href="http://nerfhaven.com...howtopic=20296" target="_blank">SNAPbow Mk. V</a>
<a href="http://nerfhaven.com...howtopic=20409" target="_blank">Make it pump-action</a>

#2 Renegademilitia15

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Posted 04 February 2009 - 11:57 AM

Dang Rork, you might be the one to convince me to start doing homemades.

Once again, wonderful job, keep 'em coming.
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#3 Draconis

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Posted 04 February 2009 - 02:58 PM

Awesome, Rork! I had been thinking of using some PEX as plunger rods too. Any signs of stress or any problems?
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#4 The Nerf Devil

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Posted 04 February 2009 - 03:33 PM

Beautiful job rork, nice clean look, simple easy to make design. Just one question, why no stock? Overall really, really nice.

Edited by The_Nerf_Devil, 04 February 2009 - 03:33 PM.

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#5 twenty4

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Posted 04 February 2009 - 03:46 PM

Ranges?

#6 rork

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Posted 04 February 2009 - 04:03 PM

Dang Rork, you might be the one to convince me to start doing homemades.
Once again, wonderful job, keep 'em coming.

Thanks. You should give it a shot. These are absurdly nice to learn on, since you haven't lost a lot if you, say, drill through the plunger tube and have to re-make it.


Awesome, Rork! I had been thinking of using some PEX as plunger rods too. Any signs of stress or any problems?

Works wonderfully. I just make sure to drill further back on the plunger rod (1/2" or so), to prevent the pin from pulling through. Plus, it's cheap as heck--$3 for 10'.

Beautiful job rork, nice clean look, simple easy to make design. Just one question, why no stock? Overall really, really nice.


Thanks. I tried to make this one a little more elegant-looking. It's light enough so that you don't really need a stock, unless you're using a turret, or integrating something substantial. A stock wouldn't hurt, but I wanted to go basic.

Ranges?


Meh. It depends on your barrel and darts. I anticipate a consistent 120'+, based on improvements made on this design, and the fact that the older models are perfectly capable of hitting 130' on occasion.
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<a href="http://nerfhaven.com...howtopic=20296" target="_blank">SNAPbow Mk. V</a>
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#7 Daniel Beaver

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Posted 04 February 2009 - 04:04 PM

Deleted. The man beat me to the answer.

Edited by Daniel Beaver, 04 February 2009 - 04:05 PM.

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#8 A side of nerf

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Posted 04 February 2009 - 04:24 PM

Nice!
It definitely is more streamlined then the earlier ones.

Do you have any pictures of it with a stock...I bet it looks damn sexy!
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#9 Zaxbys

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Posted 04 February 2009 - 05:10 PM

Shit rork you are killing me man. This gun is gonna become like computer parts to me. I will have to buy the gun again every time a new revision is made. I would like to see this one with a stock though. I am probably going to look into getting this revision.
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#10 rork

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Posted 04 February 2009 - 05:31 PM

Side: thanks. I'll have pics of the stock up in a day or 2.

Zaxbys: Hehe. Yeah, I'm like Apple: inherent looming obsolescence is the name of my game :P Honestly, though, I think it's gone just about as far as it can; every single thing has been redesigned, tweaked, and improved to such an extent that I really think that it would be extremely hard to improve it, beyond simply swapping out a few parts, adding things like custom foregrips, sights, or breech/barrel/turret setups, or using a plastic welder for the handle (not an option for many of us). If anyone wants one, PM me, and we'll work out a deal. I'll be at the SE uneup War for sure, and I'll probably make it if a spring SENO goes down, which would cheapen things a bit.
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#11 Shadowblade

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Posted 04 February 2009 - 05:31 PM

*drools*

Can't wait to see this revision at SENO!
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#12 Zaxbys

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Posted 04 February 2009 - 05:40 PM

Side: thanks. I'll have pics of the stock up in a day or 2.

Zaxbys: Hehe. Yeah, I'm like Apple: inherent looming obsolescence is the name of my game :P Honestly, though, I think it's gone just about as far as it can; every single thing has been redesigned, tweaked, and improved to such an extent that I really think that it would be extremely hard to improve it, beyond simply swapping out a few parts, adding things like custom foregrips, sights, or breech/barrel/turret setups, or using a plastic welder for the handle (not an option for many of us). If anyone wants one, PM me, and we'll work out a deal. I'll be at the SE uneup War for sure, and I'll probably make it if a spring SENO goes down, which would cheapen things a bit.


I now HAVE to sell my Snapbow to get one... Thanks so much rork.. Or maybe even just buy another and have two ZaxPbows.

Edited by Zaxbys, 04 February 2009 - 05:42 PM.

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#13 rork

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Posted 04 February 2009 - 06:15 PM

1. I get it from my local Lowe's, so shipping costs would probably eat into any savings. It's still only 1/3 the price of nylon.

2. Nope. After several hundred rounds, it works great. SNAPs require occasional plunger replacement, anyway.

3. No.
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#14 BustaNinja

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Posted 04 February 2009 - 06:24 PM

1. I get it from my local Lowe's, so shipping costs would probably eat into any savings. It's still only 1/3 the price of nylon.

2. Nope. After several hundred rounds, it works great. SNAPs require occasional plunger replacement, anyway.

3. No.

Which is why I recommend using a threaded plug and endcap.

However, this looks nice. Slap a stock on there and you got yourself a weapon there. I have recently been taking several hundred steps from my CrossSNAP, as its pretty but complicated. I have been looking into a more bare bones build for my next SNAP, as I want to do stuff that would allow alot more "in field" customization.

Either way, great gun as always. Keep uo the good home made work Rork.
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#15 rork

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Posted 04 February 2009 - 06:32 PM

The trouble with threaded plugs/endcaps is that they would require cutting down in order to achieve a consistent length--plus, disassembling one of my plunger heads requires only a pair of pliers (2, if you're wimpy): hold the hex plug with the pliers, twist everything apart, and replace parts as needed.

Glad you like it. I'm going with a totally bare-bones model, so the stock isn't really necessary. If I were to add anything, it would most likely be a Marvelous Salvo, which would take this baby right up to 11.
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#16 nerfboi

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Posted 04 February 2009 - 07:32 PM

Dang Rork, you might be the one to convince me to start doing homemades.

Once again, wonderful job, keep 'em coming.

He and Carbon and CS inspired me to start homemades too.

On topic. I love it rork. Looks beautiful. I'm surprised that you didn't use a stick on this one. But any who, looks sweet and great job again.
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#17 BustaNinja

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Posted 04 February 2009 - 07:38 PM

Im putting a big salvo on my SNAP too..... *devious laugh*
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#18 umpshaplapa

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Posted 11 February 2009 - 07:01 PM

I'm working on a very minimal "unfair gun" stock on mine. Just a few extra shots with whatever tank I decided.
And no, I'm not using 2" PVC for the stock. Just 3/4.

Edited by umpshaplapa, 11 February 2009 - 07:01 PM.

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#19 rork

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Posted 11 February 2009 - 09:25 PM

There's actually a deceptive amount of room for integration on one of these things.
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#20 umpshaplapa

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Posted 11 February 2009 - 11:35 PM

I realized that. I probably wasn't going to keep any of the shell, and use a key-ring trigger.
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#21 Rogue Warrior

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Posted 12 February 2009 - 05:58 PM

Where can you pick up some PEX?
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#22 Draconis

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Posted 12 February 2009 - 07:05 PM

Where can you pick up some PEX?


Push-ups work pretty well, if you don't want to join a gym.

On Topic: Most home improvement and hardware stores are carrying it now. Home Depot, Lowe's, ACE, etc.
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#23 rork

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Posted 12 February 2009 - 07:09 PM

I get mine at Lowe's for approximately $.40/ft.. If you can't find it at a hardware store, McMaster carries it: part # 51275K82. However, it's significantly more expensive ($.61/ft. in the quantities you'll need) if you order it from them, so I recommend searching for it locally first.
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#24 Rogue Warrior

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Posted 12 February 2009 - 07:18 PM

Thanks rork. Also, why a wooden clothespin, what about those industrial strength ones?
@ Draconis: push-ups can work multiple muscles by simply changing the spacing of your hands :D

Edited by Rogue Warrior, 16 February 2009 - 10:34 PM.

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#25 rork

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Posted 12 February 2009 - 07:30 PM

I initially tried regular plastic clothespins, but found them far too fragile. I switched to the industrial-strength nylon pins, but they throw the gun's profile out of whack. Eventually, I went with quality wooden pins from Michael's, and they work great--strong bonding to the pressure chamber, durable, and small.
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