#26
Posted 12 October 2008 - 04:08 PM
#27
Posted 12 October 2008 - 04:12 PM
#28
Posted 12 October 2008 - 04:17 PM
#29
Posted 12 October 2008 - 05:02 PM
Clean looking mod there.
At least so far.
I look forward to seeing how this project develops.
I don't feel the way I used to do.
I know its bad,
After what we had,
But I’m just not the angel you knew.
#30
Posted 12 October 2008 - 05:05 PM
<a href="http://nerfhaven.com...howtopic=20409" target="_blank">Make it pump-action</a>
#31
Posted 12 October 2008 - 08:03 PM
FOAMalicious!
DARTomatic!
#32
Posted 12 October 2008 - 09:11 PM
1.How sturdy is the plunger once cocked? It looks like it could snap seeing as it sticks so far out the back of the gun.
2. What are the odds of the plunger rod coming disconnected at the attached points. I haven't heard of one breaking yet, but for only glue and nails, I'm a little afraid to do it. Would you recommend custom making on out of aluminum?
3. Compared to another springer, how hard is it to cock?
-Banshee
#33
Posted 12 October 2008 - 10:18 PM
Edited by analogkid, 12 October 2008 - 10:18 PM.
#34
Posted 12 October 2008 - 10:18 PM
Wow... absolutely gorgeous. Thats how a real man combines his guns! I was thinking you should attach one of those new Tek Six's underneath it Longshot style for a 6 round shotgun style backup. That sounds like my kind of gun... There are a few things that have been preventing me from making one of these myself:
1.How sturdy is the plunger once cocked? It looks like it could snap seeing as it sticks so far out the back of the gun.
2. What are the odds of the plunger rod coming disconnected at the attached points. I haven't heard of one breaking yet, but for only glue and nails, I'm a little afraid to do it. Would you recommend custom making on out of aluminum?
3. Compared to another springer, how hard is it to cock?
-Banshee
1) Its rather sturdy. It turned out better than I expected.
2) There is no way they're going to disconect. If the rod brakes, it will be somewhere else. An aluminum rod would be fantastic. It should last forever.
3) I can cock it just fine. Just a swift pull gets the job done.
#36
Posted 12 October 2008 - 11:16 PM
#37
Posted 12 October 2008 - 11:20 PM
#38
Posted 13 October 2008 - 10:10 AM
The fourth exciting Nerf War in Fort Wayne, IN.
#40
Posted 13 October 2008 - 05:12 PM
I'm not usually a fan of stocks for the sake of having them, but on something with that long of a draw-length on the plunger rod, I think a stock styled in a similar fashion to the crossbow (surrounding the plunger rod & pull) would help the durability of this gun in a war situation. (i.e. it would prevent excessive impact against the plunger rod, which would help prevent breakage when you need it most)
I do have plans for adding a stock. It will be made with polycarbonate. Stay tuned.
My plunger rod seems flimsy, do you know of any way to strengthen it?
Nerfer9, get 4 long wires and place them in between the slots of the whole plunder rod. That should keep her nice and stiff. I think I might do it to mine.
#41
Posted 13 October 2008 - 06:50 PM
If you are part of the 8% who still listen to "real music",
copy and paste this into your signature
The only sport even more under rated than nerf is table tennis
#42
Posted 13 October 2008 - 06:50 PM
That looks great, i like how clean it is. Can't wait for more!
I beat my wife."
#43
Posted 13 October 2008 - 07:08 PM
when will a full write up be posted?
When its done, hopefully.
#44
Posted 13 October 2008 - 07:20 PM
#45
Posted 14 October 2008 - 04:40 PM
If you are part of the 8% who still listen to "real music",
copy and paste this into your signature
#46
Posted 15 October 2008 - 05:59 PM
The airtech doesn’t fit quite right. It’s a really tight squeeze. I was wondering if if could dermal off the lip on the tank without harming. If so I could pull this off.
For the trigger I added a Hex Standoff 1/4" Hex, 3/4" Length, 6-32 Screw Size. Umm... it’s not very sturdy. I am going to have to add a wall for it to rest on.
#47
Posted 15 October 2008 - 06:14 PM
The airtech doesn’t fit quite right. It’s a really tight squeeze. I was wondering if if could dermal off the lip on the tank without harming. If so I could pull this off.
I'd recommend against it. You might get away with sanding it down a little, but there also should be the option of opening up a hole in the shell allowing it to "peek out" a little. Then glue sheet plastic over the outside if you prefer. I'd suggest that tank integrity is a lot more important than shell integrity.
I want to stay away from the shell. I worked too hard on it to just cut it up. But if all else fails I might have to.
#48
Posted 15 October 2008 - 06:22 PM
I would hate to see this beauty be cut to pieces, but without the airtech it loses some functionality.
I, too "have recon," as they say. I get him in old country. Then I realize he sucks like bog. So I trade him for potato.
#49
Posted 16 October 2008 - 02:51 PM
I know someone said [i think it was 3/4"].
Off hand does anyone know either the I.D. of that tube or the I.D. of the original NF tube?
Salindin
#50
Posted 16 October 2008 - 03:00 PM
The airtech doesn’t fit quite right. It’s a really tight squeeze. I was wondering if if could dermal off the lip on the tank without harming. If so I could pull this off.
Haha. Dermal. You can. I haven't successfully done it though. My first try failed, so I just cut the shell I was integrating it into back a bit. That lip is just extra around the shell of the tank. It's not very thick though. And if you do the whole way around, the back will fall off. I recommend the big sanding wheel attachment. Forwarning: on my first try I went too far in at one point and the tank can't hold pressure anymore, even gooped.
3 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 3 guests, 0 anonymous users