174 replies to this topic

[CaptainSlug]

I'm going to be making one of these soon simply because I need a excuse to try out the plastic welder I got for my birthday last month.

[nerfer9]

I need a excuse to try out the plastic welder I got for my birthday last month.

Some guys get all the new toys.....I really can't decide if I want to make this thing or an +bow. I have all the tools to make both.

[rork]

CS: You flatter me, sir. I'm pretty eager to see what madness you unleash on my lil' ol' nerf gun

Nerfer9: Hell, make both. The Plusbow is the finest bit of nerf engineering ever, and this thing will give you serious ass-kicking power for $10 and an evening of your time.

[Foam Shooter]

I honestly didn't need a write up for it. It's just building a SNAP with a couple of changes here and there but it's pretty basic. All I needed to know was how long to make the plunger and plunger tube. I do think a writeup would help a lot of people but you really shouldn't have a need for one.
I can't wait to see wat C_S does to this with the plastic welder.

[rork]

JSB: If you had been paying attention, you would know that rev. 1 is a prototype that does not appear in this thread. The blaster on p. 1 is rev. 2, which is totally war-practical, as is rev. 3, which features several improvements.

[nerfboi]

CS: You flatter me, sir. I'm pretty eager to see what madness you unleash on my lil' ol' nerf gun

Nerfer9: Hell, make both. The Plusbow is the finest bit of nerf engineering ever, and this thing will give you serious ass-kicking power for $10 and an evening of your time.

10$?? Man I spent near 30$ for everything. But then I have extra parts to make about 2 more

[rork]

That's about right. They get cheaper as you build more of them.

[TantumBull]

JSB: If you had been paying attention, you would know that rev. 1 is a prototype that does not appear in this thread. The blaster on p. 1 is rev. 2, which is totally war-practical, as is rev. 3, which features several improvements.

Don't really care. As won't most of the people who might build one if (and only if) there was a single complete and self-contained writeup.

Sorry rork, but I'm gonna have to agree with JSB about the write up. I'd love to make one of these as you have claimed they are far better than regular SNAP's, but I can't really understand the write-up. There's a bit of a lack of pictures and the pictures there are a bit unclear. Props on inventing it, but the write up could use some revision.

[Galaxy613]

Sorry rork, but I'm gonna have to agree with JSB about the write up. I'd love to make one of these as you have claimed they are far better than regular SNAP's, but I can't really understand the write-up. There's a bit of a lack of pictures and the pictures there are a bit unclear. Props on inventing it, but the write up could use some revision.

Agreed, the Write up on the first page should be brought up to date to Rev 3 and reworked.

[nerfboi]

Hey rock, have you tried using the epoxy putty stuff to attach the handle?

[BustaNinja]

Ok, if you don't have the patience to find it, you dont have the patience to build it. Homemades are about maturing projects, not definitive writeups. Look at the +bow. You still have access to the originals.
Ok, a bit of cleaning would be nice.

[boisie]

I was pretty sure that Rev. 1 had been on the front. Sorry for the mix up, but a write-up would be nice if any major changes occured. Slug made a Rev. 2 write-up for his new version +bow, so it makes sense. Just my two cents.

[rork]

Honestly, this is disappointing, with a couple of exceptions. If you read Carbon's SNAP writeup, and the writeup on the first page, rev. 3 should be giving you no trouble; it's a couple of minor changes. I WILL be posting details on the first page, but it will be a few days. In the meantime, I preferred to get the info out to those who could and would make use of it. I have no obligation to make the process easy; a certain amount of research is necessary and expected. As for those of you who would do this "only if" if it was spelled out even more explicitly: this is a work in progress. You'll survive, and I will update as I can.

JUST TO MAKE THIS CLEAR, because I do not want to explain anything else about it, EVER again: The blaster on page 1 is rev. 2, which is the first working, complete SNAPbow. Works great, build one if you'd like. Rev. 3 is on page 5, and it involves only the changes PICTURED on page 5, which slim it down and make it cheaper and easier to build. As for my "claiming" that these are better than regular SNAP-1s, you don't have to take my word for it. SNAPbows I have made and sold have been used at both ECNO and DCNO, by Zack Attack and Nerfonfier respectively. Ask anyone involved with the homemade springer field about their quality. I'm just building a better mousetrap here.

Nerfboi: My alias is not "rock," although...And no. Nor will I be. The method I'm using currently is a good bit cheaper, plus I don't have to sand the handle, plus it means that NO part of the blaster is held together by glue.

[nerfboi]

Sorry rork. I don't know what's up with me for the past few days. Not enough sleep?
Ok, thanks rork. And yeah, I just noticed that your SNAPbow isn't held together by glue. Nice

EDIT: What about the end cap? You said to run some CA glue when you join them together?

Edited by nerfboi, 15 October 2008 - 06:44 PM.

[Foam Shooter]

That was on the Rev. 1 and Rev. 2 nerfboi.
Some updates: I have tried the 3/4" coupler inside the 1 1/4" PVC. Very disappointing. I made a new SnapBow and tried a new plunger. It turns out I put the clothespin to close to the end cap. I can't remove it because it is screwed in with fishing glue and hot glue as a reinforcement. Also, I made the stock out of 3/4" PVC, much better. It is much more sturdy. It alters the aiming a little bit but it doesn't take long to adjust to it. I am probably going to order some stuff from Mcmaster tonight. This will include a +Bow spring. I will have more updates when I have more stuff to work with.

[rork]

Nerfboi: No part of rev. 3 requires CA glue. With Rev. 2, I used it to attach the front coupler, not the end cap, which is held down by screws. Read more carefully.

Foam_Shooter: Ah, well. Good things and bad here. I like the 1 1/4" endcap because it's simple, and the chunkiness of the part makes it easy to drill and mess with. I'm glad you tried the 3/4" though. I've thought about making the stock out of 3/4", but haven't gotten around to it--mostly due to the fact that the 1/2"one is cheaper, and I have no problem with it ergonomically. Glad to see someone refining/experimenting with the design. I predict that you'll have a bit of a revelation when you slap a +bow spring in there. ~Rork

[Foam Shooter]

O.K. I have placed the order with Mcmaster. I need to improve the handle because now the screws are loose and the trigger is wiggly. I think the is because the hot glue that the screws are in is too flexible. I think I am going to make a new handle with bondo in the place of the hot glue.
Also, does anyone know how much the shipping is from Mcmaster. The things I ordered are coming in three boxes and they are going from the New Jersey warehouse to Massachusetts.

[rork]

I'm not sure what exactly you're talking about in regard to the handle, which is attached via 4-6 screws to a cpvc endcap, which is itself secured to the pressure chamber with 2 screws. Did you pull an Ompa on it? As for the trigger, I use glue on the trigger itself, along with a large zip tie for reinforcement. The trigger guard is held on with glue as well; the trigger assembly is the only one that depends on glue, as it is largely unstressed.

EDIT: just reviewed the topic, and saw how you attached the handle. Yeah, That hot glue will eventually get pushed around and deformed by the screws. Ompa used Bondo, but you could substitute epoxy putty for the handle filler. "My" version is actually a simplified version of Ompa's method, invented by Carbon as a part of his rather brilliant SNAP-5.

Edited by rork, 16 October 2008 - 11:27 PM.

[Foam Shooter]

The materials have arrived. I put the spring in and it is working but I still need a new handle. I have altered the design of the no endcap design and it should definately work. I'll have my handle done tonight and I'll try to make a dent in the new design. Expect updates.

[Foam Shooter]

I don't believe that this is a double post. If it is just let me know and I won't do it again.

I have a finished Snapbow sitting in my hand right now. Here she is:


Here is my cosmetically appealling vent hole.


The handle is attached with Fishin' Glue and two 1" screws. The screws are anchored into epoxy putty.


I need to pick up a 3/4" elbow to replace the T on the stock. The spring is very nice, it allows the gun to be primed much swifter.

Here is what I have on the 3/4" Coupler design. I need to put the trigger further forward.


I plan on making two more of these, the 3/4" coupler design and one with some improvements I thought of while building it. I plan on painting it a very traditional color, expect it next week.

[perezinthenet]

[quote name='Foam
I plan on painting it a very traditional color, expect it next week.
[/quote]

Would that very traditional color happen to be xbow purple?

[rork]

Hmmm...Looks nice. I've got just a couple of questions:

1. What spring are you using?
2. What kind of clothespin?

How are you liking the performance?

[MercenaryXero]

I recently completed my SNAP, which is basically a rev. 3 Snapbow with a charging-rod-in-stock design. Right now the front coupler is a bit leaky and the plunger head needs adjustment, but its still shooting okay. I should have pics tomorrow.

[rork]

For the front bushing: wrap it in 11" of e-tape, then wrap that in a couple of layers of teflon tape. Works fine, and you can add/remove teflon tape as needed to fine-tune the seal.

[MercenaryXero]

I didn't have any teflon tape, so I sealed it with hotglue. (But my gluestick was depleted mid-application, hence the leak. Shouldn't be a problem to finish.