I know there has been very few sawtooth mods, notably baghead's and frostvectron's, so when I got my clipless sawtooth from OMC a few months ago, I set about making a new mod. Special thanks to frostvectron for the motivation, and it turns out Piney did it too, so props to him
Mine borrows heavily from JAWS (link), but I have put some twists on it of my own.
Here it is in all of it's glory.
Brass breech (same kind as on frost's 5k)
Cocking device relocation (frost's)
Shoulder stock (frost's)
DREMEL!!!!! with cutting and sanding bits.
Replacement main spring (first shot springs work well)
Small catch spring (pen)
SM1.5k internals. (2k can be substituted)
2 CPVC elbows (90 degrees)
Paint (optional) (car paint or Krylon)
8-32 threaded rod.
8-32 hex nut
8-32 nylon skirt hex nut
Great stuff foam sealant.
First, open up the sawtooth by taking out all the screws.
Next, you will need to get those awful maxforce cocking handles off, goHere to see how.
Open up your gun.
I don't have a internal pic, but go Here to see what they should look like.
I have a list of what you should throw away.
1.Cocking bar and cogs, cocking handle
2.Rubber thingy on the end of the plunger tube.
3.All auto advance junk for the clip
6.Stock catch spring.
Next, take your section of 17/32 brass and cut a barrel to the desired length, glue it onto plunger tube.
Cut your breach hole where you want it.
Next, take a piece of 9/16 brass and cut a piece the length of the breach hole.
Nest this in a piece of PVC the same length, and put a half coupler on it. Drill a screw into it for your breach handle
Then, cut a hole in the shell for the breach handle with a dremel like so.
The next part involves a lot of dremeling. Take your SM1.5k pump tube and attempt to lie it where the cocking handle was on the right side of the case. Dremel away anything that is stopping it.
Lay it like so, and dremel out a hole in the back of the case for the pump handle.
Dremel away the other side of the case so the gun will close.
Glue your airtank here, and dremel a hole in the front of the case for it to sit in.
Put a barrel of your choice on the tank (I used what was left of the stick of 17/32 brass)
Glue it on there.
Now, I took everything out of the case, and gave it this mixture of black, green, and silver car paint.
It turned out nicely.
I left the end orange bit orange so it would not be confused with a real gun.
Now, we will be relocating the cocking handle.
Frost tells us to use a 10-32 threaded rod, but I found that a little thick, so I used a 8-32.
Drill a hole in the back of the cocking handle, and put the rod in the hole, and goop like crazy around it
Then take a hex nut and a nylon skirt hex nut and position a piece of CPVC in between them as your cocking handle.
Dremel a hole in the back for the handle to go out the case.
When I put it back in, I picked a better spring for the gun. Im not sure what it was, I got it in a trade deal with sputnik.
It is a lot harder to compress than the stock one.
Due to the main spring being so much stronger, you need to replace the really bad stock cocking spring.
I again am not sure what I used for this application.
Next, take your internals of sm1.5k, and glue them in. Take a piece of wire, and a key ring, and hook up the firing pin to the outside of the shell, by drilling through some thin walls.
Here are the finished internals
This is optional, but I reccomend it. Put on a stock of CPVC. Take two pieces of CPVC, and two elbow joints. Put them on, and cut a piece of CPVC to go in between them. Goop them onto the shell like so
This is optional, but I put some great stuff foam sealant in the end of the orange bit, to stop the main barrel from flopping around. Make sure it doesn't get in the way of your breech handle.
Put the gun back together, and you are done! The main gun gets about 55ft, and the integrated 1.5k, about 85ft.
Edited by mystefansdontflystraight, 14 June 2008 - 08:14 PM.