25 replies to this topic

[Galaxy613]

Ok, right now it's only an idea because I don't know how best to seal something, but the idea is as follows:

Take the internals of a AT2k, remove the tubing between the pump and the goo-gauge, and then use the pump-shaft/cylinder as the new handle and make a makeshift trigger.

I think I might also make the shaft a little bit shorter, and do something to keep the actual shaft in the pump-cylinder. But the reason why this is an idea and not a write up is because, how do I remove the yellow tubing between the goo-gauge and the pump while not destroying anything? And how best should I fuse the goo-gauge, with the pump?

Basically, I want to take this:



and make this:



I might use my leaky AT2k for this, not the one shown. So I won't be messing with a perfectly good AT2k.

Edited by Galaxy613, 03 May 2008 - 07:54 PM.

[NerfCrazy]

Why do you want the goo gauge? What I did to remove the tubing is just pulled it off of the pump and unscrew the cap part that holds the tubing to the goo gauge.

[Galaxy613]

Why do you want the goo gauge? What I did to remove the tubing is just pulled it off of the pump and unscrew the cap part that holds the tubing to the goo gauge.

The reason why I want to keep it is because it's far more solid than the tubing, so it'll hold the form without external help.

Which way to unscrew pray-tell?

[NerfCrazy]

Why do you want the goo gauge? What I did to remove the tubing is just pulled it off of the pump and unscrew the cap part that holds the tubing to the goo gauge.

The reason why I want to keep it is because it's far more solid than the tubing, so it'll hold the form without external help.

Which way to unscrew pray-tell?

You unscrew it counter clockwise and you may or may not have to do some more work to get the tubing off. Maybe it was just mine but it seemed like it was glued on.

[Galaxy613]

Yeah.. it's definetly glued. Thanks. I'll probably do length-wise cuts on the tubing connecting the pump and try peeling them away. I'll lose a little... first I'll try to unscrew it from the goo-gauge though.

*Edit* Ok sweet, got the tube off.. but I think I broke the nozzel from the pump... though I think it'll work out.

I'll get pics up later.

Edited by Galaxy613, 02 May 2008 - 11:10 PM.

[g-force]

Why would you do this if the at2k is already a pistol?

Edited by g-force, 02 May 2008 - 11:37 PM.

[ompa]

to make it even smaller, so it might be able to fit into one of the normal pockets, as opposed to a cargo pocket. Also, to make it easier to holster, since it is a tad bit bulky for a normal holster.

~ompa

[Galaxy613]

Indeed.

I am now having problems with fusing the pump to the goo-gauge...I've tried hot glue, obviously didn't work because it was flimbsy and had a leak, and I was not able to hold the two parts stationary long enough for super glue to work. If anyone has any ideas or suggestions, I'm all ears.

*Edit* Also, off-topic slightly, the leaky AT2k has a cyan tube... and last night I found out that it also is glow in the dark! Has anyone else found glow-in-the-dark AT2k pump cylinders?

Edited by Galaxy613, 03 May 2008 - 06:37 AM.

[Maeric]

Plumbers goop. Epoxy. Hot glue never works in compressed air situations unless you use an assload of it. And that gets hot. Heres an idea, unscrew the nut, pop off the tubing from the goo gage, amd cut the tubbing on the pump really short. Then just push the tubing up onto the little nub, and put the nut back on. There you go, no glue, no work. Easy as hell.

[Dr Moose]

Zap-a-gap glue. Just put a small dot on the spot, and hold the two pieces together firmly. It will dry in about a minute, and you won't have to hold it there anymore. Now you can either load it up with zap-a-gap, or use plumbers goop.

[g-force]

Another thing you could try is to integrate it into a minimized nf shell.

Edited by g-force, 03 May 2008 - 09:45 AM.

[ompa]

As weird as this may sound; some type of acrylic glue, followed by epoxy putty for some more support. I've never tried it, but I know there are some types of acrylic glue designed for plastics, and the epoxy putty does a nice job of forming a hard support.

Otherwise, I've had luck with super glue and regular epoxy. No matter how you do it though, I'd use some type of epoxy putty afterwards to form a bit more support; if that plastic nub on the pump breaks off, you'll have one rather painful time trying to jam everything together.

~ompa

[Galaxy613]

Thanks for the load of replies everyone. I'm gonna sand down the two connectors and then try the Zap-a-gap approach. I have the CA+ version, not the Plastic only version. After that I'm gonna try to use plumber's goop create a good seal around there, and hopefully that'll do it. I DO NOT have Epoxy or Epoxy putty, but my Dad might have some Plumber's putty which might work.

Another thing you could try is to integrate it into a minimized nf shell.

The only shells I have are a Tek Six shell, and now an AT2k shell. Already thought about putting it in a NF, but I'll probably keep the tubing so I can bend it around the trigger mech. The NF I have is already hotglue'd shut.

Plumbers goop. Epoxy. Hot glue never works in compressed air situations unless you use an assload of it. And that gets hot. Heres an idea, unscrew the nut, pop off the tubing from the goo gage, amd cut the tubbing on the pump really short. Then just push the tubing up onto the little nub, and put the nut back on. There you go, no glue, no work. Easy as hell.

lol A little too late. Would be interesting to try though.

*Edit* Alright, I put two dabs of Zap-a-Gap (ZaG) on the top, then held it in place. It was connected, but leaking air as expected. To firm up the bond I put a little too much ZaG on the bottom and held it upside down, it filled the gap and actually went over the side, sealing the edges too. The pump actually works but I'm not gonna pump it too heard until I can reinforce it with some Plumber's Goop.

After I let the glue dry and put the plumber's goop on, it'll be time to start seriously thinking about how I'll do the trigger..

Edited by Galaxy613, 03 May 2008 - 11:49 AM.

[ompa]

I actually have a spare NF shell that I may be able to send out to you, PM me if you're interested (only applies to Galaxy).

As for the trigger, I propose a solution; take a piece of 1/2pvc and glue it on the bottom of the tank (parallel to the barrel) and then sand it down so it fits flush with the curve of the pump. Then, you should be able to use the stock trigger assembly.

~ompa

[Galaxy613]

lol Brillantly simple idea Ompa! Just a note, I'll have to cut down the old trigger so it can go back far enough. I am thinking of cutting the pump down a 2-3 inches to make the "handle" less long and make it stick out less because right now it's some-what an issue. I could take that 2-3 inches I'll cut off and use that instead of 1/2 PVC.

I'm not sure about the NF shell, I'll need to look at some internal pics of a NF before I decide. I'll probably have to buy a Dremel if I seriously want to do it..

*Edit* Also, I found my Dad's unopened Plumber's Goop (It actually says that on it, so I know it's the right stuff), but I also found some "Sta put Plumber's Putty". Apparently it never hardens and is used for plugging leaks and etc. Should I just go with the Plumber's Goop, or try that putty?

*Edit Again*

Ok... I broke the ZaG bond while testing the trigger... how best would I use plumber's goop?

*Edit Thrice*

I just put big gobs of plumber's goop and guided them with Q-Tips. Time to wait for tomarrow for it to cure. :-\

Edited by Galaxy613, 03 May 2008 - 02:32 PM.

[Galaxy613]

Sorry for the double post, but I want to make sure people see this.

The AT2k Pistol is not functionally complete. I eventually had to scrap the Plumber's Goop because the bond between the goo-gauge and the pump finally broke and the Plumber's Goop blocked airflow. So I reglued it, and used even MORE glue, then started to drown it in hot glue after it dried, using cardboard cut outs to help give structure to the hotglue.

First, the WIP pictures.


^--- Just got off the tubing... the black thing is on counter-clockwise.


^--- Used Zap-a-Gap to glue it together.


^--- Shown almost complete, added 2-3 inches of CPVC below the firing pin to support the trigger.


^--- The trigger over the section of pump I cut off so it'll fit perfectly and make the pump more compact.


^--- The trigger system in place.

Now, the 'finished' picture:



I may cut down the actual pump shaft later. And here's a comparsion shot with a Nitefinder.



It's not exactly ergonomical, I should probably wrap a good deal of duct tape or something around the handle to give it more width and etc. But, the gun is functional, no unexpected leaks and etc. Time will tell how well it'll stand up.

[doubleshot]

Thats nifty, is it flimsy?

[OfAllTheNerf]

Hah, props to you for actually making it work.

While I would do this a different way, I definitely like it. Looks nice a clean in a homemade sort of way.

Kudos,

-OfAll'

[Galaxy613]

Thats nifty, is it flimsy?

The only bit that is flimsy is the trigger, because it can still slide off the rod and also slide forward too much, both can be easily remedied.

BTW, your post rhymed.

And thanks OfAll'. How would've you done it? I'll be glad to have your take on it.

[mystefansdontflystraight]

That's sick. I did this with some off brand gun a while back, and had it break during a firendly war I had with some friends. Good job.

[ompa]

I'm going to say this in a fairly blunt manner:

I don't think that the connection between the pump and goo gauge you have there right now is not strong enough. Between the trigger causing stress on it, as well as just the general stress of running around with it/shoving it on your pocket, that will break. I would suggest making a more sturdy housing for it. Here's a suggestion, but it's on the fly and you will probably think of something better; Take something like 3/4" or 1" pvc, cut a slit large enough for the pump and pump-goo-gauge connection to fit in it, and then fill it with some type of hardening putty, such as epoxy putty. Then, just jam that entire connection into the pvc. That way, the putty will harden around the connection and make sure the pieces don't come apart.

You can always hot glue the firing pin/firing pin spring/trigger assembly together to keep the trigger from sliding around too much. Otherwise, you can always just sand out the inside of the coupler and have it go back further, to prevent the trigger from sliding too far forwards.

Given, it might hold as is, but I I have my doubts, and every time you have to re-glue that connection (and as a result sand both portions), the more annoyed you may get with the gun.

~ompa

[Maeric]

You absolutely have to put some CPVC in the bottom of the pump tube, otherwise the pump will nock the little stoper loose (aka, the check vavle).

Here is what you should do, but you dont have to cut the pump open if you dont want to, as long as you put the CPVC into the pump tube. Scroll down till you find the write-up looking portion. Just do the first three or four steps.

[Galaxy613]

@Maeric, Ah, good idea. I'll that later today.

@Ompa, Thanks for your concern, I am pretty sure the hot glue will hold, also, to redo it now will be a pain, as the hot glue likes where it is. If/When it breaks, I'll definetly be using epoxy putty..

I've already glued the trigger to the firing pin, I'll get a pic of it up later.

Well, time will tell how it'll hold up. More like, time will tell if I can make enough stefan's for the 24th.

[Ubermensch]

Nice one, Galaxy? I have a few questions: First of all, does it fit in your pocket like it was meant to? It seems that the barrel is to long and the handle is too long. Second off all, do you have a problem with the pump sliding down/out of the tube when you are pointing the blaster at something?