21 replies to this topic

[chefdave]

Here she is.







The hole I cut to remove the ar:


After I covered it up: *note* That is not tape, its a stronger form of shrink rap used to cover RC airplane wings.*note*




Half of the breech:


The material used to cover the tube (sorry blurry):


Enough pictures for tonight, I will have the write-up done within a week.


Ranges, well with no spring replacement, a streamline hit hard against a wall 40ft away. It could probably get 60ft with stefens.


Questions? Comments?

Edited by chefdave, 02 March 2008 - 11:29 PM.

[PC III]

Congratulations! more info on the breach?

[chefdave]

The breech is made out of 9/16" and 17/32" brass. The 17/32" is glued/hammered into the plunger rod(or whatever it is). After inserted I cut it in half, dremmeled out all the rough edges, and inserted it into the gun. I then took the 9/16" and slid it onto the end of the breech so that it was fully closed. Finaly I glued the 9/16" to the oranged cap on the front of the gun and cut away the excess brass.


*edit* grammer *edit*

Edited by chefdave, 02 March 2008 - 11:16 PM.

[PC III]

How of a barrel long? range difference from stock?

Edited by P.C. III, 02 March 2008 - 11:23 PM.

[chefdave]

The ranges are probably about 20-30ft longer then stock. I never measured the stock ranges, because they were crap.

[CaptainSlug]

A long 1/2" OD flat blade wood-boring drill bit only costs $2.50. Just trying to point out how silly it would be to have people putting so much work into avoiding what can otherwise be such a cheap and easy tool for removing ARs.

Edited by CaptainSlug, 02 March 2008 - 11:24 PM.

[nerfboi]

I HATE YOU!!!!!! Jk. I wa working on one RIGHT now. But with PETG. I got the AR out with ALLEN WRENCHEs. Wierd huh? I'll get pics up in a lil when I finish.

EDIT: I finished my mod:

And theres a write up. Go check it out. Sorry if this is hijacking your thead dave, If so, I'll reedit this post if you want me to.

Edited by nerfboi, 03 March 2008 - 09:52 AM.

[chefdave]

Edited by chefdave, 02 March 2008 - 11:33 PM.

[nerfboi]

I have a question. I made my barrel the same lenght as yours, but now my darts wont even leave the barrel. And tips?

EDIT: Also, what are some good spring replacements?

Edited by nerfboi, 03 March 2008 - 12:04 AM.

[PC III]

I used a cut down 12-shot shotgun spring.

chef: I broke my bolt in half, and the ars fell out. i then just Gooped it back together.

LOL the computer kept trying to turn "Gooped " into "Groped"

[Bullshit Dragon]

All you really need to do to get the AR out of the Recon is to twist the bolt sled 90 degrees and pull. It'll come apart and the spring and AR will go flying, then you simply put it back together. You can e-tape it if you like, but that's what I did to mine after looking at it a little bit. It's like the easiest AR to get out other than the BBB and the NF.

[Uterly]

Slugs method is the best. Do not try anything else. It took me 2.5 seconds and to top it all off, the air restrictor popped out as one whole piece. seriously just do it that way

[Green Riptide]

Not to be an asshole here Slug, but not everyone even has access to something that would be able to use the specified drillbit. My drill just gave out on me and since it honestly wasn't used for 8 years I'm not in a huge hurry to replace it; other folks may not have their power tools with them at college/said power tools are contraband, or the younger readers might not be allowed to use any they would have access to anyway. I (and probably many others as well) appreciate the information; if I do end up getting a replacement drill I'll pick up one of these bits while I'm at it. In the interim, though, I don't think having an example of how someone got by without the more refined tools is bad at all.

[PC III]

There is a seam in the bolt, wich it can be broken on. I have done it the way Bullet suggested, and i shoot it several times a day and it holds up fine.
Cs'(s) method would work a bit better, but this if convenient, and works if you do not have the necessary tools.

*edit* Green Riptide beat me to it.

Edited by P.C. III, 03 March 2008 - 01:11 AM.

[CaptainSlug]

Not to be an asshole here Slug, but not everyone even has access to something that would be able to use the specified drillbit.
blah blah blah

I would recommend waiting until you do because all of the other methods that have been suggested have a very high risk of irreparably destroying the gun in the process or over time. Or they require tools that are even less affordable.

Power drills are dirt cheap and anyone who has any interest in modifying blasters (or hell just lives in a house) should have at least one power drill. I'm not advocating an expensive single-use item here. Power drills are absurdly useful around the house/apartment/condo for fixing furniture, replacing fixtures, installing drywall screws for hanging pictures, etc. etc. etc.
They're very safe to operate as long as your not a completely incapable 'tard. If your parents think you're not capable of using a power drill safely, then you're probably also not to be trusted with the kind hand tools you would have to implement to accomplish tasks you could more safely perform with a power drill.

I have never heard of a college having a set policy against power drills. Larger tools I could understand though.

And if anyone gives me the "I can't afford one" line I'll laugh because a working power drill costs about the same as the blaster you're modifying.

Edited by CaptainSlug, 03 March 2008 - 01:46 AM.

[Thom]

I have never heard of a college having a set policy against power drills.

You might be surprised at how draconian college "weapon" restrictions can be. For example, the official policy where I am prohibits any "blade" over two inches. This evidently includes everything sharp, from a pocket or paring knife to a hacksaw. Hell, they told me I couldn't have a scrollsaw in my room on the grounds that it was a bladed weapon. Now, I can think of at least three perfectly good reasons why they might not want students using scrollsaws in the lounges, but it never occurred to me to include among those the possibility that one might remove the blade and… I don't know, try to manually saw off someone's finger, I guess.

Since then, I've decided that it's easier to ask forgiveness than permission. Or better yet, just store my lethal weapons in a covered container where they're protected against snooping by the full force of New York State law.

EDIT: This turned into a bit of a rant, and I forgot to congratulate chefdave on a great mod! It reminds me of Angel's breach; I'll be anxiously awaiting the writeup.

Edited by Thom, 03 March 2008 - 02:02 AM.

[nerfernewb]

To add to the whole AR removal discussion. I somehow lost my drill (don't ask me how, it just disappeared) but still had one of the recommended drill bits. So instead of trying to break the barrel or anything I just hand drilled the AR out using the bit. The bit is pretty darn sharp and it really only took me about 2-3 minutes to get the AR out.

Just an fyi. Can't wait to do this mod, nice job chefdave.

[TAiLsChaser]

The whole "one topic becoming two topics" is getting to become a trend. So I'll just make two points.

The mod looks good except for the brass. I feel that it would cut my hand off just by cocking it.** I've never used anything like that shrink wrap, but hey, whatever works.

**That being said, I can understand having a power tool to fix and/or more refinely perform that mod. While a dremel would be great, a power drill can do just fine. It won't be as good but it'll still get it done. I used to use one before I found a dremel at my parents' house. The normal power drill is cheap. Since you're not needing anything industrial or even heavy duty for that matter (unless you're cutting metal a lot), a little drill will be fine.

I'd like to hear some measured ranges to see if this was worthwhile. Even ten or so feet makes this mod interesting.

Edited by TAiLsChaser, 03 March 2008 - 09:51 AM.

[Galaxy613]

All you really need to do to get the AR out of the Recon is to twist the bolt sled 90 degrees and pull. It'll come apart and the spring and AR will go flying, then you simply put it back together. You can e-tape it if you like, but that's what I did to mine after looking at it a little bit. It's like the easiest AR to get out other than the BBB and the NF.

Has anyone tried to confirm what this guy said? If it's true then all this power drill discussion is moot sense all you need to do is twist it a little to get the AR out..

[keef]

Well, I just drilled out my AR with a normal drill bit, nd I had a Breeched AR removed Recon. I took out the AR and put it back together. Breeched and AR removed. Sorry, you weren't the first.

I get that range with brass in the bolt itself, somethings wrong.
Do the darts get destroyed? Does the brass slide far enough?

Edited by keef, 03 March 2008 - 02:57 PM.

[Anothernoob]

Good work!

How are the darts feeding? Any shreds/jams? Also, when you close the breech does the dart push back into the 17/32" brass?

The reason why I'm asking is because it seems like the dart would need a snug fit with the barrel in order to build pressure. A tight, shorter barrel is usually better for spring powered guns that move a small amount of air very quickly, correct?

[chefdave]

The half of the 17/32" brass and the 9/16" are what the darts shoot out of. This makes a 35/64" barrel which is prefect for weaker spring guns. (it fits bullets kind of like PETG)