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Breach-loading Bolt Action Homemade

I'm having some trouble... help?

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#1 Sylent Blade

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Posted 02 November 2003 - 05:46 PM

Hey, I've recently started to make plans for a breach-loading bolt action loser rifle, and I'm having some design problems. My design looks good to me, but I know something will go wrong. If I can scan my plans I will and post them later. It's just that I don't know how to make a good seal when I pull the bolt back, and it slides back into place after I put in the dart. The whole point of this is to make the loser as realistic as possible, and to reduce loading time, and increase RoF. Any help will be greatly appriciated, and if you must, critisism.

Oh, and what is a good barrel lubracant for PVC or CPVC? Is ski wax useful? I read somthing about it.

Thanks.
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#2 neonerfer

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Posted 02 November 2003 - 09:21 PM

Heh, I remember my first Breach-loading bolt action. Those were the days...
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#3 Zero Talent

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Posted 03 November 2003 - 03:44 PM

Heh, I remember my first Breach-loading bolt action. Those were the days...

Yeah, I know the feeling. My first breech bolt kicked out air like crazy... Cutting slots in the barrel is the silly 7yr0 way.
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#4 Stefan

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Posted 03 November 2003 - 04:46 PM

Hey, I've recently started to make plans for a breach-loading bolt action loser rifle, and I'm having some design problems. My design looks good to me, but I know something will go wrong. If I can scan my plans I will and post them later. It's just that I don't know how to make a good seal when I pull the bolt back, and it slides back into place after I put in the dart.



Ok, obviously the bolt needs to make a total seal with the rest of your barrel. To do that, I'd go with something along the lines of the Sharpshooter II (lots of others, but I just took my SS2 apart and had some ideas): a standard shaft and then some kind of gasket over it that fits snugly in the barrel. Your other option is that the bolt only goes as far as the front edge of the breech (Breech being the "hole" in the barrel? I don't know much about firearms) and then pressing snugly against it with a rubber gasket.. Either way, we make a seal.
Then, the center of the bolt can be hollowed out and the air comes through that hole.
Downside: with a smaller hole you restrict air flow.. More resistance, less range.. That means you need to compensate with power in the air reserve/spring strength/whatever you're using. I drilled open a few smaller holes in my SS2's guts and it really helped performance.. I should post the mods i did in another thread and see what's already been done.

The whole point of this is to make the loser as realistic as possible, and to reduce loading time, and increase RoF. Any help will be greatly appriciated, and if you must, critisism.


I can just picture all the darts getting their heads snipped every time you try to load quickly.. But it should work in principle.

Oh, and what is a good barrel lubracant for PVC or CPVC? Is ski wax useful? I read somthing about it.

I suggested using a liquid ski wax and buffing it into the barrel.. I looked for my bottle of it the other day and couldn't find it, but from my skiing experiences I bet it would do a pretty good jorb.
I'll post again if I can find the damn thing.
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#5 Sylent Blade

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Posted 03 November 2003 - 08:44 PM

Alright, thanks for the tips. I'll try the gasket, and play around with the design alot, and maybe I'll discover something useful... doubtful, but it could happen.

I'll try to find some wax somewhere... if worse comes to worse, I have a couple of ears that might want to donate to the cause.

Ha ha, cya guys.
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#6 INsecurity

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Posted 04 November 2003 - 11:35 PM

This is the design i am using to create my bolt action rifle, Its pretty much self explanitory but here is a quick key.

Dark grey = O ring
Light grey = pvc/cpvc
orange = brass
medium grey = stefan

The only design flaws will be the clip, but i have an idea here is a birds eye view of the clip.

|ŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻ|
|								 |
 >							   <
|						 	    |
|______________________|
Thats the best i can do,
basically the little arrows < and > are notches in the walls of the clip to make the clip base slide up smoothly and the base will basically fit into that with the notches cut out instead of sticking out. sorry for the confusing explination.

Back to the actual breech setup.

Non moving pic
moving file
You might have to copy and paste the urls in.


http://www.insecurity.batcave.net/boltmove.swf

Btw sorry for not posting for a whiloe but i got caught up at NHQ but now i will be here instead.
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#7 NerfManiac

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Posted 05 November 2003 - 12:14 AM

Looks really good dude!
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#8 Sylent Blade

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Posted 05 November 2003 - 04:00 PM

Man, thats so cool. Actually, I was making a clip too. I have an idea using an old SM5K ballblaster spring, and some patience. Thanks for those diagrams man, I won't copy, but I'll use it for insparation.
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#9 THIRST

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Posted 05 November 2003 - 09:43 PM

Ha, Im working on my breach loading bolt action loser rifle as we speak Its going to have 2 seconday airtanks, stock, forehandle, hose nozzle valve, and going to be able to fire 3 shots without priming. My breach is being made out of a bolt, brass, and copper.
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#10 Sylent Blade

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Posted 06 November 2003 - 05:30 PM

Are you now? That's cool. I'm using brass too, in quite the same fashion as you. Although I've yet to hunt down a dremel for making the breech hole it self. I tryed using an old drill bit... BAD IDEA. My house smelt like iron for the rest of the day. Well, you know, molten metal. That's beside the point... GO BOLT ACTION loser RIFLES!!! We all know they are the best... YAY.

Out of hand? Maybe...
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#11 Sylent Blade

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Posted 06 November 2003 - 07:46 PM

Alright, I have some more questions. This rifle that I'm making is homemade. I would like to know what the best valve is, and obviously, what is the quickest release valve out there? If you can tell me, and perhaps tell me a location where I could find it, it would be greatly appriciated. If the valve is good, I might mod it to work from a budget trigger. Now, onto tanks. I'm going to have two. Would a 500 mL water or pop bottle work? Or would it simply crumple or explode? Thanks, suggestions on an appropriate air tank would be nice too.

SB is out.
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#12 AtiLa TheHUN

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Posted 09 November 2003 - 08:34 PM

Recently ive been looking for air valve and a air tank for my underconstruction bolt action c02 air rifle and im thinking of using a small fire extingisuer for the air tank aswell as removing the small trigger valve as for the valave that is needed as it works the same way as the air valves at the gas station that you use to pump up your tyres where it has a small steel ball that is pushed down by the lever to open the valve, also another good idea is to use the psi reader that comes attached to it
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#13 Sylent Blade

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Posted 09 November 2003 - 09:09 PM

Recently ive been looking for air valve and a air tank for my underconstruction bolt action c02 air rifle and im thinking of using a small fire extingisuer for the air tank aswell as removing the small trigger valve as for the valave that is needed as it works the same way as the air valves at the gas station that you use to pump up your tyres where it has a small steel ball that is pushed down by the lever to open the valve, also another good idea is to use the psi reader that comes attached to it

Sounds promising. Let me know how that works out.
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#14 THIRST

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Posted 11 November 2003 - 09:32 PM

Alright, I have some more questions. This rifle that I'm making is homemade. I would like to know what the best valve is, and obviously, what is the quickest release valve out there? If you can tell me, and perhaps tell me a location where I could find it, it would be greatly appriciated. If the valve is good, I might mod it to work from a budget trigger. Now, onto tanks. I'm going to have two. Would a 500 mL water or pop bottle work? Or would it simply crumple or explode? Thanks, suggestions on an appropriate air tank would be nice too.

SB is out.


You could use a selenoid valve, and hook it up to a switch and a 9V. Another valve option is one of ZERO's homemade valves( my friend made one of these yesterday, and he has no experience with NERF, at all, so I was a bit surprised, so I dont think its very difficult, just make it airtight) Im using a hoze nozzle, another great option...Stay away from ball vlaves. They will screw you over...or maybe its just a drag to fire. On NHQ, someone used a pop bottle for an airtank, although I dont recomend it beacuse of its size, it could work. Also, it depends with the pressures your dealing with. Although it works, its psi limit is much lower than that of pvc, or another material. For your airtank, I recomend PVC, or better CPVC, because its smaller, lighter, and has no disadvantges over PVC It would be very easy to rig it up to pvc, just hammer it in... Good luck, Ill tell you how mien turns out, but im not sure if I can get around to building it becuas of time, and getting a ride to Homedepot. Goodluck.
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#15 Sylent Blade

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Posted 12 November 2003 - 05:00 PM

Selenoid valve... sounds cool. Those expensive? Anyways, thanks, I guess I'll use some CPVC, since you know more than me, I'll definatly trust you. I can't wait to hear how yours goes, and I can't wait until I get mine done... but it'll be a while, with school, work and that stuff, I'll only get in like, an hour a day. I got fucking grounded for shooting my sister with my SM5K and I can't get anything from the Depot until this Saturday... but I'm just gonna walk there I guess.

SB is out.
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