"It sucks out of the box."
So I decided to modify it over the holiday break. I cracked mine open and began the process of dremeling out the back of the plunger tube to get the Air Restrictor, as well as trying to find a spring that would fit [my initial choice was doubling up two weaker springs, but even fully compressed, they were too large and it was nearly impossible to cock the gun. I finally settled on a stronger but smaller spring, which I've rated as 165 N/m; 9.24 lbs/in.]
Anyways, that's all pretty standard. Why I'm posting this is on account of the cosmetic work I did while I was in there. I wanted a laser sight for Longshot. While trying to decide where to place it, I was put off by the look of simply gluing it on (though that would've been easier than what I did).
I wanted to house the laser in the scope mold, because I still think, useless as it is, the scope looks cool perched atop the Longshot. So I set out to get it open... which was no small feat [See my trials and tribulations with that here].
Suffice to say, I cracked it open.
![Posted Image](http://www.schrodingersblog.com/images/NERF/01%20OpenScope.jpg)
Now, here comes the point where things get interesting. The laser pointer I had (and which most people would have for this) is a bullet-style push-button laser. That is, it's a small cylinder with a button you must hold down to activate the laser. What I wanted for this mod is to be able to control the laser from a single switch mounted on the gun, and to remove the scope if I felt like it.
Lets deal with the button issue first. If the laser is inside the scope housing, I don't have access to the button, and even if I did, I don't want to have to hold it down the entire time. What needs to be installed is an external switch for the laser pointer. This is a separate task in and of itself, and I found a really useful tutorial about it that really helped..
At this point, I had it so that I had two wires coming out of my laser, and the device would activate when I connected them; that much is explained in the above tutorial. Next, I affixed this to the rail attachment of the scope. It used a combination of duct tape and rubber bands. The only reason I didn't glue it on was I thought that might make it hard to replace the batteries when they die eventually.
So, I got it attached to the rail.
![Posted Image](http://www.schrodingersblog.com/images/NERF/02%20RailAttach.jpg)
Since I wanted it to be modular, that is, to be able to remove the scope, I needed a quick and simple way to connect the wires to whatever switch I eventually installed in the gun. At first, I found some "quick connect" terminals... but they were really cumbersome and almost impossible to wire up for this end.
![Posted Image](http://www.schrodingersblog.com/images/NERF/03%20BadConnect.jpg)
(DO NOT USE THESE)
A much, much better idea I had later was to use spare terminal plugs for 9V batteries. (These come from RadioShack in packs of 5)
![Posted Image](http://www.schrodingersblog.com/images/NERF/04%20GoodConnect.jpg)
If you use pliers to loosen the crown end of the connector just a little bit, these connect easily and securely very quickly; exactly what I needed! So I wired that to the end of the wires coming from the laser pointer. (You can actually see this in the above pictures, as I took them following this step)
I drilled a small hole in the front of the scope, fed the 9V connector out of it, and sealed up the scope. NOTE: You need to leave out the front plastic 'lens'. I tried several configurations, but in each one, there was just too much refraction of the light on that plastic slice, so I nixed it.
![Posted Image](http://www.schrodingersblog.com/images/NERF/05%20NoLense.jpg)
![Posted Image](http://www.schrodingersblog.com/images/NERF/06%20ScopeDone.jpg)
With the scope done, the remaining task became to install the switch in the gun. I just got the switch from a hardware store for a buck-or-two; I wanted something small and subtle, but you could really use whatever you wanted. Then I picked the placement for both the switch, and the 9V terminal that would be mounted externally. I drilled one hole for the terminal wires to get into the gun, and dremmeled a square opening for the switch. (This was actually a little messy, as the rotary tool is probably not the best for this type of job. I covered my poor handiwork with e-tape)
The switched was mounted internally with hot glue, and the same was used to affix the terminal externally. Solder the terminal leads to the switch, and you're in business:
![Posted Image](http://www.schrodingersblog.com/images/NERF/07%20InternalWires.jpg)
![Posted Image](http://www.schrodingersblog.com/images/NERF/08%20ExternalMounts.jpg)
Put it all back together, and that should be it.
![Posted Image](http://www.schrodingersblog.com/images/NERF/09%20Connection.jpg)
![Posted Image](http://www.schrodingersblog.com/images/NERF/10%20Application.jpg)
"But the dart doesn't hit where the laser point shines!!! Rip off! You suck! *general flame ensues*"
I will caveat this by saying I've yet to successfully calibrate it. It could be possible, but the stock darts vary a lot in how far/what direction they tend towards, and so a 'red dot' sight, as this is technically called, is somewhat impractical.
I did this because it looks cool.
If anyone is able to properly calibrate it, please let me know how you managed that!
The one thing I will say for this is that it's modular. Eventually, I'd like to cannibalize the "night time green light rail attachment" accessory simply for it's rail, and affix a high-powered flashlight onto it, and then fit it with a 9V terminal so that it can utilize the same switch. That's my favorite part anyways.
I'd appreciate thoughts, feedback, and suggestions.
Thanks!
[I'd also like to acknowledge Carrtoon for his original AR removal write-up, and to hornet, telekinetic, and Lynx for their suggestions on getting that damned scope opened up.]
Edited by M30, 30 December 2007 - 02:53 AM.