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Longshot Laser-scope

Purely For The Sake Of.

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#1 M30

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Posted 30 December 2007 - 02:52 AM

I'd had my Longshot for a number of months in the fall semester, and though I'm still greatly impressed with the mechanical complexity the gun possesses, I've got to echo what countless others have said before me.

"It sucks out of the box."

So I decided to modify it over the holiday break. I cracked mine open and began the process of dremeling out the back of the plunger tube to get the Air Restrictor, as well as trying to find a spring that would fit [my initial choice was doubling up two weaker springs, but even fully compressed, they were too large and it was nearly impossible to cock the gun. I finally settled on a stronger but smaller spring, which I've rated as 165 N/m; 9.24 lbs/in.]

Anyways, that's all pretty standard. Why I'm posting this is on account of the cosmetic work I did while I was in there. I wanted a laser sight for Longshot. While trying to decide where to place it, I was put off by the look of simply gluing it on (though that would've been easier than what I did).

I wanted to house the laser in the scope mold, because I still think, useless as it is, the scope looks cool perched atop the Longshot. So I set out to get it open... which was no small feat [See my trials and tribulations with that here].

Suffice to say, I cracked it open.

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Now, here comes the point where things get interesting. The laser pointer I had (and which most people would have for this) is a bullet-style push-button laser. That is, it's a small cylinder with a button you must hold down to activate the laser. What I wanted for this mod is to be able to control the laser from a single switch mounted on the gun, and to remove the scope if I felt like it.

Lets deal with the button issue first. If the laser is inside the scope housing, I don't have access to the button, and even if I did, I don't want to have to hold it down the entire time. What needs to be installed is an external switch for the laser pointer. This is a separate task in and of itself, and I found a really useful tutorial about it that really helped..

At this point, I had it so that I had two wires coming out of my laser, and the device would activate when I connected them; that much is explained in the above tutorial. Next, I affixed this to the rail attachment of the scope. It used a combination of duct tape and rubber bands. The only reason I didn't glue it on was I thought that might make it hard to replace the batteries when they die eventually.

So, I got it attached to the rail.
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Since I wanted it to be modular, that is, to be able to remove the scope, I needed a quick and simple way to connect the wires to whatever switch I eventually installed in the gun. At first, I found some "quick connect" terminals... but they were really cumbersome and almost impossible to wire up for this end.
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(DO NOT USE THESE)

A much, much better idea I had later was to use spare terminal plugs for 9V batteries. (These come from RadioShack in packs of 5)
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If you use pliers to loosen the crown end of the connector just a little bit, these connect easily and securely very quickly; exactly what I needed! So I wired that to the end of the wires coming from the laser pointer. (You can actually see this in the above pictures, as I took them following this step)

I drilled a small hole in the front of the scope, fed the 9V connector out of it, and sealed up the scope. NOTE: You need to leave out the front plastic 'lens'. I tried several configurations, but in each one, there was just too much refraction of the light on that plastic slice, so I nixed it.
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With the scope done, the remaining task became to install the switch in the gun. I just got the switch from a hardware store for a buck-or-two; I wanted something small and subtle, but you could really use whatever you wanted. Then I picked the placement for both the switch, and the 9V terminal that would be mounted externally. I drilled one hole for the terminal wires to get into the gun, and dremmeled a square opening for the switch. (This was actually a little messy, as the rotary tool is probably not the best for this type of job. I covered my poor handiwork with e-tape)

The switched was mounted internally with hot glue, and the same was used to affix the terminal externally. Solder the terminal leads to the switch, and you're in business:
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Put it all back together, and that should be it.
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"But the dart doesn't hit where the laser point shines!!! Rip off! You suck! *general flame ensues*"
I will caveat this by saying I've yet to successfully calibrate it. It could be possible, but the stock darts vary a lot in how far/what direction they tend towards, and so a 'red dot' sight, as this is technically called, is somewhat impractical.

I did this because it looks cool.
If anyone is able to properly calibrate it, please let me know how you managed that!

The one thing I will say for this is that it's modular. Eventually, I'd like to cannibalize the "night time green light rail attachment" accessory simply for it's rail, and affix a high-powered flashlight onto it, and then fit it with a 9V terminal so that it can utilize the same switch. That's my favorite part anyways.

I'd appreciate thoughts, feedback, and suggestions.
Thanks!

[I'd also like to acknowledge Carrtoon for his original AR removal write-up, and to hornet, telekinetic, and Lynx for their suggestions on getting that damned scope opened up.]

Edited by M30, 30 December 2007 - 02:53 AM.

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#2 Wisey

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Posted 30 December 2007 - 05:23 AM

I like this. It would be nice to have verious attachments for differnet things (flashlights, other guns etc.) I was thinking of how I could mount a removable NF (cut down so it's just the top of the gun, and something comes up out of the LS rail and fires it).

Yeah, I thought that was the coolest part, the laser sight itself (as i'm sure many other people are going to say...) is quite useless. BUT I may use the tutorial on how to put a external switch onto a hold button laser pen you linked to, and replace the "laser" on an NF with it that you linked to. Thanks =]

The one thing I will say for this is that it's modular. Eventually, I'd like to cannibalize the "night time green light rail attachment" accessory simply for it's rail, and affix a high-powered flashlight onto it, and then fit it with a 9V terminal so that it can utilize the same switch. That's my favorite part anyways.


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#3 sourskttles772

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Posted 30 December 2007 - 09:07 AM

That reminds me of the time me and my friends taped a lazerpointer on my friends singled titan. Pretty cool.
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#4 Matt31

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Posted 30 December 2007 - 09:51 AM

You're not going to be able to calibrate it, until you modify your darts. You need to either: 1. Cut the rubber dome completely off, 2. Fill the dome with hot glue through the hole in it, or 3. Tape over the hole with E-tape.

Then your darts should be more consistent, thus allowing you to adjust the sight as necessary.
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#5 M30

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Posted 30 December 2007 - 12:00 PM

Matt31-

I just tried your third option, covering the hole with e-tape. It worked like a charm!
I've also read that streamline's performance can be enhanced by adding small weights. Do you think, or know, if adding weights with the e-tape would result in additional range/accuracy?

Thanks so much for this tip.
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#6 Lynx

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Posted 30 December 2007 - 12:00 PM

How did you finally crack it open?

I don't see one of your hands missing from industrial solvent....just kidding...sorta not...
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#7 M30

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Posted 30 December 2007 - 12:33 PM

How did you finally crack it open?

I don't see one of your hands missing from industrial solvent....just kidding...sorta not...


I ended up using a flathead screw driver on the larger, front ring. The whole point was getting leverage on it. If you look at the first picture, the half in the foreground, you can see a small, blue, pill-shaped piece located within the yellow "top". This meets virtually flush with the cap, when the cap is present. I just got the biggest screwdriver I had, shoved it in between those, and alternated trying to rotate clockwise and counterclockwise.

Eventually it gave.

I ended up making two dremel lines on the smaller ring, and using a tiny screwdriver to pry the cap from the plastic, with those lines as access points. I've heard people having success using lighter fluid to do things like this, so if I ever get the chance to try again, I'm going to give that a shot.

Getting it open was really a lot more trouble that it needed to be... I just wish they hadn't glued the damn things on.
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#8 Matt31

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Posted 30 December 2007 - 02:01 PM

Adding weight would depend on how modded the gun is. If you just have the AR out, you probably wouldn't need to add weight. However if you added and O-ring and another spring, I would suggest adding a bit of weight.
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#9 Dayko

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Posted 30 December 2007 - 03:16 PM

Good job. Vary creative and it is cleanly done.
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#10 sn1per

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Posted 30 December 2007 - 10:06 PM

Pretty cool. Way better than the NF "laser".
QUOTE(Scotch @ Feb 3 2008, 05:47 PM) View Post

sn1per I appreciate your humor, that made me laugh literally out loud.

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#11 joeyaglr444

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Posted 30 December 2007 - 10:28 PM

You cant really calibrate it. That has been the problem with scopes on nerf guns for a long time there is a small amount of nerf blasters out there that always hit that spot all the time. Your idea is fantastic but don't think of using it for any long-shot losing anytime soon. though laser sight would be great on a close quarters nerf gun.

What could help you is mod the gun in itself add a spring do an angel breech mod.

p.s Well made switch there buddy i like it.
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#12 M30

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Posted 30 December 2007 - 11:44 PM

I did add an extra spring, so I will play around with adding small weights to my darts, and see if that helps at all.

Could someone please point me to a write up on replacing/updgrading the o-ring? Preferably with images. I did a search for 'o ring', but most of the results pointed to NF mods, not Longshot ones. Angel's being the exception, but it wasn't the focus of his write up, so it was scant on details.

I also understand that a new breech is the next step... but frankly I'm intimidated at the moment by the investment of time, energy, and funds that would require, so I'm content to keep it the way it is. Besides, having my hand cramp up daily from unscrewing and rescrewing the 25+ screws in the Longshot multiple times for whatever reason is something I'm not terribly eager to experience again. (Honestly, I'm much more eager to get my hands on a Recon, but that's proving difficult).
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#13 Matt31

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Posted 31 December 2007 - 10:02 AM

Leave the stock O ring in there, its not all that bad. You just need a second one. An O ring from tech target works very nicley. Remember O rings are pretty stretchy, so you can actually get a fairly small O ring onto the LS plunger head. 1. Just steal an O ring from an old, broken gun. Or 2. Go out and buy a pack of them at Lowes or HD.
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#14 Ro-Sham-Bo

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Posted 31 December 2007 - 10:12 AM

I think this is a cool idea and that it would be fun to have. I don't see it as being that usefull or practical. But, you could use it to distract people.
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QUOTE(baghead @ Dec 31 2008, 07:58 PM) View Post

Wait a second? a Canadian National team... just won at Hockey!?

who would have ever seen that coming?



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