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Nerf Recon Ar Removal


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#26 Squishy

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Posted 28 December 2007 - 06:29 PM

Edit: any one remember the "Foaming to create effiecient(sp?) pressure" idea for the mav? Ithink that could work well here.

How in hell would you foam anything here? The foaming for the mav eliminated some dead air space, but I don't see how you could do this without very probably screwing up the gun.
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#27 angrscottishkid

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Posted 28 December 2007 - 11:54 PM

Squishy-drill out the restrictors and peg, and you have an open tube to put the straw through and foam.
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#28 Dayko

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Posted 29 December 2007 - 12:12 AM

Nice mod. When I get myself a Recon I will be doing this mod to it.
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#29 Squishy

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Posted 29 December 2007 - 12:44 AM

Squishy-drill out the restrictors and peg, and you have an open tube to put the straw through and foam.

I can understand why you might think that this might help the ranges, but in fact it would do the opposite. It's rather difficult to explain had you not taken a fluid dynamics course, but basically any abrupt change in diameter significantly slows down the flow of air with only a slight increase in pressure, in addition to creating a turbulent flow that takes approx 10 times( the diameter of the tube) length of tube to make laminar.
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#30 Omega

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Posted 29 December 2007 - 01:48 PM

Kudos on the first Recon modification. This one looks like a tough nut to do significant mods to. It may be the least mod-friendly since at least the Maverick, but I think we can do something to it.

By the way, the reason your Streamlines keep fishtailing is because of that little hole in the side of the dart head. Try using CDTS darts and see what happens.
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#31 DeceitfulSteve

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Posted 29 December 2007 - 03:58 PM

By the way, the reason your Streamlines keep fishtailing is because of that little hole in the side of the dart head. Try using CDTS darts and see what happens.


Fishtailing is when your spring is too strong for the barrel and darts you're using with it. If there is still a lot of air pressure right when the dart leaves the barrel, that burst of air will throw the tail of the dart to the side. Since streamlines are quite light, this can be a definite problem on a modded gun. Longer barrels and heavier darts fix this.

Like you mentioned, streamlines do have a tendency to veer to the side with the hole, but this is due to aerodynamics of the head and shouldn't really be called fishtailing. They're two different phenomena and shouldn't be confused.
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#32 Tofu

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Posted 29 December 2007 - 05:59 PM

Besides removing air restrictors, theres not much else to do. Someone metioned an angel breech, but that won't do to much without a more powerful spring, which would be very hard to find in the right size.

That would be me, but this is a pretty much useless gun to me because of the style and spring placement. An angel breech would work for me, but without a decent spring, this gun sucks.

Glad someone found out how to do it, I tried to use a dremel through the back...that wasn't to fun. Congrats, I probally wouldn't of thought aof using a screwdriver for this one.
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#33 sourskttles772

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Posted 29 December 2007 - 06:55 PM

Hasbro would have been smart to release a gun that was so easy to mod. Because everyone would buy 1 or more.
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#34 agentM192

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Posted 29 December 2007 - 09:40 PM

So to remove the AR, you have to keep poking it until it comes out the back? Why; is something holding it in place that you can't take off? Could you drill it out through the back?
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#35 umdlancer

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Posted 29 December 2007 - 09:52 PM

I never said that a spring replacement would be outright impossible, just difficult due to the tight fit. To help anyone trying to do a spring replacement, the plunger tube on the Recon has a outer diameter of 0.93" and an inner diameter of 0.82"; the stock spring is 1-1/16 x 1/16 x 4-5/8 (OD x wire size x length), with about 1.73 coils per inch. The shell might be able to accomodate a spring with an OD of up to 1-1/8, though it would be a very tight fit.

Also, I actually wasn't the first to mod the Recon, DeceitfulSteve did a beautifully simple adjustment to the trigger travel distance.

As for removing the restrictor, I poked it out by inserting a long, thin object like a phillips-head screwdriver into the end with the O-ring and jabbing until the air restrictor & peg fell out the front. I tried to drill it out, but found that none of my drill bits were long enough to do so, and I didn't have any zippo lighter fluid on hand to try to dissolve the superglue holding the bolt together.

Edited by umdlancer, 29 December 2007 - 09:58 PM.

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#36 xNFx 37

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Posted 30 December 2007 - 08:37 AM

Well, do you think it was worth your $20 bux a pop for the RC? oR do you think it's mod potential ruined it.

I want no how much the ranges are on your recon since aR's are obviously removed.

Basically i'm not going to buy this gun for it's mod potential, but for it's sweet looks, and mainly for fun.

So, if it gets, 35-40 i'm happy enough to buy it.
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#37 M30

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Posted 02 January 2008 - 02:27 AM

A small update on this procedure:

I gave this mod a shot today, just in trying to get my RC up to snuff. Taking it apart went well enough, until I got down the to actual business of getting the AR out. I wanted to try and more subtle approach than just smashing it out from behind; I wanted to get the pieces separated, and just have the AR slide right out.

First, I just tried getting it wet. It was a hope-against-hope that the glue would be water-soluble, but if it was that would've made life a lot easier. It's not.

Next, I tried zippo lighter fluid, which seemed to have no effect either.

Finally, I broke out the acetone nail-polish-remove, courtesy of my sister. This ate away at the scheen on the plastic... but did little else. I could not give those two pieces of the plunger tube to part ways for the life of me. I even dremel down the little side-slips to be sure it was only the glue holding it in place, and still nothing.

So I ended up using my not-so-ideal selection of screwdrivers to bust this thing out. Nearly broke poked a giant hole in the side of the plunger in the process... all in all, rather stressful. I really wish there was a better way to do this, but I just don't see one.

In any case, this method is solid, if a little brute-force, and gets the job done.

NOTE: With everything above, I just applied it to the surface; I did not soak the part in anything. If you've got any advice on the potential of this secondary method of access to the AR, please post that in this thread. Thanks!
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#38 MrDelish

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Posted 02 January 2008 - 04:47 PM

I'm in the process of slicing the tube in half, gutting the AR, and replacing the bolt again.

I don't think the superglue + e-tape is going to hold it together, so I'm probably going to buy some PVC to reconnect the tube.
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#39 M30

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Posted 03 January 2008 - 01:59 AM

MrDelish-

Could you take a few pictures?
I don't think there are any up of the internals of that tube section;
Those details could be useful for finding other ways to get the damn thing open!

Thanks!
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#40 General Cole

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Posted 03 January 2008 - 02:23 AM

Hot 3/8in Steel Pipe and a steady hand. Works on all ARs, just melts them out.
We should stop calling out/making fun of/pissing GC off. He's actually contributed and is available for trade. He's a better than average member no doubt. Got your back Cole.
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#41 MrDelish

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Posted 03 January 2008 - 04:55 PM

MrDelish-

Could you take a few pictures?
I don't think there are any up of the internals of that tube section;
Those details could be useful for finding other ways to get the damn thing open!

Thanks!


Well, from what other people have said/tried with not slicing the tube open but detaching a part to get to the AR and from what I've seen, I'd say there are three options:
1- Beat it out with a long screwdriver
2- Melt it out with a long metal rod
3- Cut open the bolt and gut it out.

I'm guessing that the cleanest (if you don't destroy the rest) is to melt it out. I still have to dissect the barrel again and cover it with a PVC, since it doesn't actually cock the plunger.

As for what's inside, there's the AR, and a teeny bit smaller space where its spring goes. Like I said, I don't think there's any way to get at the AR without using one of the three aforementioned methods.
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#42 rokor

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Posted 03 January 2008 - 09:56 PM

NOOOOOOOOOO! My one week absence has really ost me here. Doesnt matter anyway since I wont be able to mod for a while. Almost cut my finger off trying to do a little clip mod.
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#43 General Cole

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Posted 04 January 2008 - 02:04 AM

If you cut it open and pull the AR out, E-Tape will hold it together for a long time.
We should stop calling out/making fun of/pissing GC off. He's actually contributed and is available for trade. He's a better than average member no doubt. Got your back Cole.
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#44 ejrasmussen

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Posted 04 January 2008 - 04:18 AM

I don't have a recon but i was wondering if instead of having the plunger look as odd as it is if you could reverse it to act like a nf plunger.
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#45 umdlancer

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Posted 04 January 2008 - 10:16 AM

I don't have a recon but i was wondering if instead of having the plunger look as odd as it is if you could reverse it to act like a nf plunger.


Not without an extensive rebuild, at which point it'd be more of a homemade crammed into a Recon shell than an actual modification.
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#46 rokor

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Posted 04 January 2008 - 06:06 PM

I think I have the easiest way so far. While I was breaking some glue I found that if yoiu put I a couple inches above high heat on your stove it should loosen within a couple seconds. And to put it back just slide it on and put it back over the fire.
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#47 M30

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Posted 07 January 2008 - 10:39 PM

I think I have the easiest way so far. While I was breaking some glue I found that if yoiu put I a couple inches above high heat on your stove it should loosen within a couple seconds. And to put it back just slide it on and put it back over the fire.


You just put the plunger over the range burner and pulled, and it came apart just like that?

If other people can get it to work too, I think you're right.
That really is the best way.

People who've yet to do this, I really encourage trying it out. The alternatives are much more time consuming, and if you only leave it over the open flame for a few seconds, you don't stand to do much damage to the piece itself. (I'll be using this method on my next Recon for sure...)

Edited by M30, 07 January 2008 - 10:41 PM.

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#48 SPU-Nerf

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Posted 08 January 2008 - 09:07 AM

I think I have the easiest way so far. While I was breaking some glue I found that if yoiu put I a couple inches above high heat on your stove it should loosen within a couple seconds. And to put it back just slide it on and put it back over the fire.


What kind of stove do you have?
Gas, convection?

Edited by SPU-Nerf, 08 January 2008 - 09:07 AM.

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#49 MavericK96

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Posted 08 January 2008 - 08:19 PM

Tried that technique over an electric burner, and also above an open flame (Zippo) with no success. The only thing it did was start to melt the plastic a bit, but the "glue" or whatever didn't loosen one bit.
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#50 rokor

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Posted 09 January 2008 - 07:02 PM

Yah it should work just within a couple seconds. Im not sure what kind of stove I have since I dont pay attention to that stuff but I would guess gas, it is stainless steel if that means anything.
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