6 replies to this topic

[Maniacal Coyote]

Mod Guide - Strongarm REV-6
NIX-122 recently asked me to modify his Strongarm, and I decided to use that for my first entry in the contest. Originally posted here.
More after the big drop.


Tools: No. 1-size screwdriver <a href="http://3.bp.blogspot...0425151336.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;">








Also, something long, thin, and sturdy.
(I used an HFT screwdriver)
[No Picture]

Harbor Freight & Supply Rotary Tool Set









Swiss Army Knife









Magnet










Materials Strongarm (N-Strike Elite)










Sandpaper Teflon tape (plumbing tape)
Random spring that'll nest around the plunger rod

Steps:
Get a Nerf N-Strike Elite Strongarm. (Pro tip: Use magnet for faster acquisition.)
Unscrew the three screws in the priming slide and remove it. Unlike the Maverick, there is no tricky metal pin connecting the two halves of the slide. Instead, the bottom/right half is screwed onto the slide-return spring. Leave that be for now.



Now, unscrew the rest of the springs, but leave them in the shell. Time to butterfly the blaster.
The cylinder is presenting a problem. Eject it and the problem will be resolved.
The blaster should separate nicely into two parts: one
with the guts, and one with the cylinder.
The cylinder should easily come out of the shell.
The gray part at the front should easily slide off.
Now, let's make this bad boy able to handle all micro-size darts and stefans.
You will want to use this grinding head if you are using an HFT rotary tool set. (The one that's sticking out.) If you're rich and have an actual Dremel, you figure it out.
Load your rotary tool with the bit.
Fire it up. Whoops!

Make sure the cord is plugged in.
Grind away where I have marked.
It should look something like this.
Switch over to a sanding drum.

Grind out at the inside of the chamber.
Do this until an elite/streamline dart'll fit inside. Repeat for the other five chambers.
Now, on to the other part of the blaster. Unscrew this screw, the only screw holding the internals inside.
The internals pop out easy.
Pull the plunger out.
Pull the O-ring off.
Apply ~4 layers of Teflon (plumbing) tape.
Put the O-ring back on.
(No picture, but do you really need one for this step?)

Next, wind your spare spring around the plunger.
Time to mutilate the air restrictor!

Grab your long skinny tool and use it to ream the ar out.

Oops! Need more leverage!

And, crunch! You may need to repeat if you have a stubborn air restrictor.

Put the plunger back in.
Put the internals back into the shell.
Put the screw back in.
Put the gun back together.
Viola! Rear loading Strongarm!
Bonus: Can feed streamlines and stefans!

Warning: this mod makes it extra powerful, so exercise caution when using it.

I did not do any scientific measurements, but it does shoot much harder, and probably much further with good darts.
(The sharpieing was done by my friend.)

The only aesthetic change is the fact that it is rear-loading.

[ravetrooper]

Wow, this has to be the most original entry so far! Great job!

[Thorn]

'ravetrooper', on 04 Jun 2015 - 8:46 PM, said:

Wow, this has to be the most original entry so far! Great job!

I can't tell if you are being sarcastic or not….
This was a pretty good writeup, but I would try to get better pictures if possible. Other than that, the instructions were relatively clear, so good job.

Edited by Thorn, 04 June 2015 - 11:00 PM.

[LordGiratia]

I would add that you can use needle nose pliers instead of a rotary tool to take out the barrel posts. Also you should always re grease the o-ring if you take it out.

Edited by LordGiratia, 04 June 2015 - 08:10 PM.

[Astech]

'Thorn', on 05 Jun 2015 - 12:13 AM, said:

I can't tell if you are being sarcastic or not….

I think that the twisted URM wins the "most original" award ([edit] mainly because its the nerf equivalent of colouring outside the lines), but a rear loading Strongarm is certainly up there. I'm just wondering though; on a blaster with a pop out drum, designed for ease of loading, what circumstances prompted you to make an additional loading option? I know the mod doubles as a performance increase, but the inspiration for the rear loading eludes me for this blaster. As has been said before, the write up was very easy to understand.

As a side note I have found that pliers and ordinary sandpaper can do just as good a job, if not as fast.

Edited by Astech, 07 July 2015 - 06:07 AM.

[Maniacal Coyote]

'Astech', on 07 Jul 2015 - 11:05 AM, said:

[W]hat circumstances prompted you to make an additional loading option? I know the mod doubles as a performance increase, but the inspiration for the rear loading eludes me for this blaster. As has been said before, the write up was very easy to understand.

Revolvers cannot easily load Streamline darts, and I wanted to be able to use Streamlines in a Strongarm.

Then, after some thought, I realized that complete removal of the stem would allow for usage of solid darts (i.e. stefans).

At that point, I realized that the air restrictor would play hell with the blaster unless the darts were loaded in the rear. So, I had to remove the side thingies attached to the stalk and grind that area down.

After that, I just pounded the AR out of there to minimize resistance, sorta like with a Stryfe.

Also, I was kinda inspired by real-steel revolvers' loading from the rear of the cylinder.

[Cheefman45]

I like it I have done the same to my strongarm exept I made it have a removeable drum.