My couplered Supermaxx 500, about 5 inches of 9/16 serves as the barrel:

And a little preview of a WIP I'm modding for Francesca:

Again, sorry for the horrible pic quality, these guns are a lot prettier in person.

ASON, great minds think alike.

My new sidearm:

Gets awesome ranges, I'd guess about 75 feet. Dead accurate, too.
Pardon the horrible picture quality, this was taken from my webcam, not my good camera.

My cousin paid me to make this for him. We are going to give it an awesome paint job today and it has a brass breach. NEW paint job. Try to
imagine metallic blue(all sparkly) and half of the back part of the gun black and this is no ordinary black it is a chalkboard!

It's funny you made that, because about a month ago I was drawing up blueprints of how I would make something just like that, except deodorant-clipped. I quit because I thought the stock would be much too hard for me to make since I don't have a scroll saw or anything, but I applaud you for making this.

PETG'd Stormfire, minimized, 2 O-rings, springs, basically Merzlin's mod. It's like, impossible to cock with the huge Home Depot spring. No clue on the ranges, I haven't had any stefans to spare as I'm making them like crazy for DAFT, but it shoots pretty hard just with stock darts (which fit loose in the PETG).

My primary, a custom K9 special.

6" 9/16 brass barrel, cut-down DT3 spring addition, minor reinforcements. Semi-fluorescent green crackle finish paintjob, black(cough)e-tape(coughcough) accents. Eight PETG ammo holders added on. Gets (EDIT)65 feet on an empty clip, 80 on a full one.(/EDIT) Amazingly comfortable, thanks to the grip extension. Sometimes the loading on the RSCB is a little finicky, since my darts don't have a really loose fit in copper, and you have to shake it to get the darts to go down, but for the most part it's fine. Most definitely my favorite gun.

And my Doomsayer, 10 inch barrels:

Meh. Not really my style. A little too complicated for me, feels like it's about to fall apart, and kind of uncomfortable. Ranges are pretty screwed up, anywhere from 60-100+, I think I somehow screwed up the seal/plunger. Never got around to putting rear loading on the left side, either. Still a pretty nice primary though.

First time posting with the HD camera, so my pictures should be much better quality from now on.
I happened to stumble upon a AT2K at Tuesday Morning (the only one there, and for $6.99, too!) and this is what happened to it. Shoots good and far, and the ROF is great, of couse, thanks to the clip. Probably my new primary.

And an FPS view...

EDIT: Woah, WAAAAY too big of pics... Resized.

My new Scorpion Bow, basic mods. Hitting... maybe 80-ish? I'm never quite sure, but the ranges are pretty good. Soon to get a Big Salvo/Splitfire integration if I can find the right parts. Thanks to thedarksideofnerf for supplying me with this beast.

Oh yeah.

Almost finished, all I need is barrels (mediumwall PETG) but those have been pretty tough to find lately. To test the power, I held a piece of thickwall PETG, which has a springer-fit on my darts, up to the turret, and it still fired further than just about any other gun I own. In short, this thing is redonkulous.

Proof that an adequate +bow can be made with a dremel and a drill.

Also, weird magnet attachment system for the speed loader.

Dude, that's great. Where'd you get the polycarb?

Yeah hornet, don't insult my kind!

I found this:
http://www.hasbrotoy...R=582&pn=browse
...and thought everyone would like to see it. Yeah, just another place to buy it, but this one is the value pack with extra ammo & strap. Still not available yet, but I thought it was worth posting. I found it interesting that the value pack one in the link and the regular one with 1 chain were both the same price.

It says its in stock now! Time to meticulously look over every single inch of the nearest Wal-Marts and Targets for them....

Has anyone else noticed that the letter/digit combo at the end of the names of N-STRKE Blasters usually say the type of gun, and the amount of ammo it holds? examples:

CS-6: Clip Shooter-6 darts
REV-8: Revolver-8 darts
EBF-25: Electronically Belt Fed-25 darts

Back on topic, this thing sounds like a mini-beast. Might be hard to mod.

Am I the only one to notice on the green area labled "SUPER VALUE!" it says:

"Value Includes:
- 25 darts
- ammo belt
-shoulder strap"

and in the picture it has a an ammo belt and a double-ended hook-thing? This explains how in the pictures the kid had the belts around him "Rambo-style". And I hate to speculate, but this also means that this could be used to attach to things like straps, belt loops, or even possibly another ammo belt.

EDIT: The main picture of the gun also includes the double-ended hook-thing.

Ok, so here are my thoughts

I'm scared of what FA_24's going to do.

Ok, time for me to put in some more input, so

1) There are 27 links on the chain. 25 of them can hold darts. The two on either end apparently are bolt-thingys.

2) The AR's shouldnt be too hard to drill out, and besides, you act like you didn't expect there to be any AR's.

3) I think they might have developed a new kind of dart, since the darts flying out of the gun on the box don't seem like screamer darts.

4) FA-24 might not even do a mod for this if it isn't good.

EDIT: Dang, OberonFox beat me to the first point I made.

Wow, I didn't notice that. Maybe a on/off switch, or a jam door...?

*speculation begins*

I noticed something. So here is my edited picture, a la bobafett:


If you can't see that writing, here's what it says:

"What is that? It can't be a handle, and the ugly mullet kid is looking through it, so it must be a sight or something. But why isn't it on the actual product???"

And I know some of you might be thinking, "Thank you, Captain Obvious!" or whatever right now, but some people might not have recognized this. I didn't.

Ahh... Nerf 2008 is gonna be great! And the "Iron Man Gun" is a repainted Magstrike, and now we have TWO NEW MOTHAF**KIN' TITANS??!?!?!!! Sweet Jebus...

Hicks: I don't see any comparison.





You know, I think I'm going to stop posting so much now.

you can see a part of the hyperfire box. It looks like a repackaged dart tag set with a different colour blaster, but we still don't know what the mini blasters are.

The Hyperfire set is a part of the Dart Tag line. The mini blasters likely are repackaged Crossfires.

I think its to (maybe?) load the chain, or have a single-shot option.

I still think the little orange box on the side is a battery holder, and you put the chain in from the other side.

I second that, AssasinNF. It won't be a crank-turn (obviously), but it will be alot like a Razorbeast. Also, I think that box on the side might be used for battery storage Well, it is 6 D batterys.

Uh, that is the Recon, the Hyperfire is in the bottom left corner.

I saw that, I guess it's another Iron Man blaster.

That's either an adult, or a really ugly kid with a mullet. I actually prefer the second, just because if NERF put adults on thier gun boxes, that would be a little creepy. Then again, maybe they are targeting the older Nerfers/modders like us.

I was looking for some foam that would work great in a springer and fit in Modman PETG. Does anyone have any suggestions?

5/8 or 1/2 inch FBR, like the rest of us use?

Yes I know that, I was looking for a brand of foam.

Well, assuming that Mod Man PETG is more or less the same as OMC's PETG (which I am 90 percent sure it is), the black foam from Best Materials should work very well for a springer. For an air gun, you should use 9/16 or 19/32 brass with Best Materials foam.

I would never allow tack darts, and would never want to be in a war that did. Weights and tips shoot out of guns (especially air guns) all the time, this is not a weight I EVER want to be flying at me. Especially in the winter, when the cold temperatures weaken the glue's bond to the tack.

As for cost, I got these, and at $12 shipped for 700 weights ($.017 each), they're basically the same cost as your tacks ($.0167 each), and are very easy to work with. The felt washers are also bought in bulk from mcmaster, throwing your prices off by a lot as well ($5.89 for 500 means $.01178 each, washers at $4.59 for 585 means $.0078 each, total of $.01958 each + shipping).

How are tack darts easier to find?

Going faster and flying further go in hand, but it's also pretty likely that the tack weighs less than a normal fishing weight, and that difference would cause a slight increase in velocity (and therefore range). If you wanted the same effect from a fishing weight dart, just use bb weight instead of 3/0. The reason we do use 3/0s over bb weights in our guns is that accuracy increases from a more front heavy and therefore stable dart.

Tacks are easier to find, usually, since you can find them at almost any general store. I don't like buying stuff online usually, also, but thank you for the links. And personally a tack dart has never lost it's tip being shot out of any of my guns, including a pump-shotty, but then again, it doesn't get very cold down here in Texas. Thanks for the helpful reply.

[/question]

Many people have made darts this way. Just cover the metal tack with hot glue and make sure it's secure.

Well, the whole reason I make/made them this way is because it takes away the trouble of making a dome and therefore makes the darts more consistent since they all have the same tip and weight. The reason I tend to not like CS darts is that they always tend to fly 15 or 20 feet less than regular stefans, while for some reason(weight?) the tack darts fly at least 10 feet more, usually. Plus thumbtacks are much more easily available and much cheaper than felt discs and washers.

EDIT: I'm talking about the kind of tack dart in "The mother of all dartsmithing tutorials", here.

The metal tipped dart comment reminds me; I sometimes make "tack darts" with thumbtacks used as a tip(sharp-end down, of course). They don't hurt too much, and fly a lot farther and are much more consistent than other darts, besides CS darts. I was wondering if any wars would ever allow them?

How I make my Amazing Stefans

How to Choose the Right Glue Gun for your Foam.
For this, you have to decide what foam you are going to use. I personally use Mile High, which melts easily. Because of this, I had to use a low-temp glue gun. Many low-quality glue guns will get progressively hotter as you keep them on, which meant I had to unplug my glue gun every 10 or 15 minutes to keep it from melting my foam. I now use an Ad-Tech Mini Low Temp glue gun, and it works very well.

How to Cut.
I use a long-bladed hobby knife for cutting my foam. When cutting, "pin" the raw foam down straight with your index and middle finger, and make the cut in between the pinned points. Make sure the edge of your blade is lined up perpendicular to the foam on every angle, and slowly saw into the foam.

How to Straighten your Blanks.
I actually don't have to do this, since the foam I use is dense enough that you can simply "bend" it into shape right off of the roll. However, when I used my old foam, I would just put the blanks in a pillowcase and throw it into a dryer for 10 minutes on medium heat.

How to Make the Hole.
This is pretty simple. Basically, just make sure you burn the hole in the center of the blank, and don't let the hole get too big.

How to Make the Dome.
One of the hardest parts of dart-making for many people. I can't tell you any technique to this really, you just have to practice. I can, however, give you some tips:
-Don't be stingy with the glue, unless you're using a high-temp glue gun. With a high temp, if you use too much glue, it will pour over the sides and make a nasty mess.
-Don't try to correct minor mistakes in the dome by smoothing it with the glue gun's tip or putting more glue on before it cools. Trust me, gravity will make the dome for you if you do things right.
-Have a dart holder of some kind. I use a Magstrike or Powerclip clip. This will ensure the dome doesn't cool poorly, the weight doesn't move around, and lets gravity fix your mistakes for you.
-SLOWLY pour the glue to make the dome.
-Keep a steady hand, and don't move the glue gun around when making the dome.

That's about it. Happy dartsmithing,
Salmon

I never claimed that my stefans are of "great quality", but they fly better IN MY EXPERIENCE than MY normal stefans or CS stefans. Plus they are, as before stated, quite a bit easier to make, or at least cheaper(I can get like 60 tacks for a buck, while a package of 40 3/0 fishing weights is 4 dollars).

Washers of the same weight and approximate diameter would have to work as well. Might be cheaper, might not, but sure wouldn't require as many excuses.

I don't particularly appreciate your sarcasm, but nonetheless, Bob, let's not turn this into a flamewar or anything(which is where it looks like it is headed).
My reasons for using tacks instead of washers are as follows:

-With tacks, there is no worry about making a dome, since it the tack is already dome-shaped.
-It's nearly impossible to get a tack off-center, unlike typical hot glue and fishing weight stefans.
-At least for me, tacks are much cheaper. A box of 60 tacks, as before stated, is only 1 dollar, while 30-something washers is 2 dollars, 20 felt washers is around two-fifty, and 40 fishing weights is at least 3 dollars depending on which store you go to.
-Easier to find(usually)
-For some reason, IN MY EXPERIENCE, once again, tack darts tend to fly a little further and go faster than other darts THAT I MAKE. But maybe I just suck at making darts.

So, back to my question, if you were hosting a war, would you allow tack-tipped darts as seen in this tutorial?

Many people have made darts this way. Just cover the metal tack with hot glue and make sure it's secure.

Well, the whole reason I make/made them this way is because it takes away the trouble of making a dome and therefore makes the darts more consistent since they all have the same tip and weight. The reason I tend to not like CS darts is that they always tend to fly 15 or 20 feet less than regular stefans, while for some reason(weight?) the tack darts fly at least 10 feet more, usually. Plus thumbtacks are much more easily available and much cheaper than felt discs and washers.

EDIT: I'm talking about the kind of tack dart in "The mother of all dartsmithing tutorials", here.

Wait, so thumb tack stefans fly farther than normal, great quality stefans with either 3/0 or 1/4" weights in them?

I never claimed that my stefans are of "great quality", but they fly better IN MY EXPERIENCE than MY normal stefans or CS stefans. Plus they are, as before stated, quite a bit easier to make, or at least cheaper(I can get like 60 tacks for a buck, while a package of 40 3/0 fishing weights is 4 dollars).

Tacks are easier to find, usually, since you can find them at almost any general store. I don't like buying stuff online usually, also, but thank you for the links. And personally a tack dart has never lost it's tip being shot out of any of my guns, including a pump-shotty, but then again, it doesn't get very cold down here in Texas. Thanks for the helpful reply.

Salmon, just stop using them please, because they may not have broken yet, but they will eventually, and will most likely ruin someones day. I used to make darts in a similar way, using 7/8 in. roofing nails. Like you, my darts never lost their tip, because I put hot glue on the tip before putting it in the dart. However, do this for me really quick. Take one dart, and squeeze it off center so it bends in half. The sharp point inside the dart will quickly puncture through the soft foam and be exposed. Now imagine that instead of squeezing it with your fingers, it is lying in the grass tip down, and your foot lands on one. Not fun.

Well, minsc, that's why you don't nerf barefoot! And a tack with a half-centimeter spike isn't going to pierce through a shoe sole. Far less if two-thirds of that spike is covered by foam the foam it's piercing through, if that ever happens.

And also, and I know this isn't my thread, but I thought I said [/question]?

In response to all the "it fires when the handle is forward", I had an epiphany today.

It's only coincidence that it does that.

When you prime the plunger, normally, it hits a catch. Well, if you hold down the trigger, the catch is non-existant. From there, it's like a ratchet: It goes over the pump handle the one way, and when you pull back, it's caught for the full stroke.

Just speculation, but it would seem to be a new idea...


And, to VACC, I wasn't here during the Vulcan craze, so don't kill me, please?

But then, if I'm understanding you, it'd be as bad as a push-pull gun, except with a spring. You mean that its just pulling back the plunger and releasing it? I somehow don't think that would work.

But then, if I'm understanding you, it'd be as bad as a push-pull gun, except with a spring. You mean that its just pulling back the plunger and releasing it? I somehow don't think that would work.

The Nerf Bow N Arrow.

Touché.

So, a pull-and-release kind of thing.
I can see that.
Couldn't be very accurate though...

How... God... Is that... Oh sweet...



I'm speechless.

Lemeseehere:

1 Splitfire(pump plugged)
1 Crossbow with a PETG barrel, BBB spring replacement, and paintjob(which I call Fibonacci Jekyll & Hyde)
1 minimized Mod Man brassed Nitefinder
1 Mod Man PETG'd BBBB
2 AirTech 1000's
1 almost-broken Powerclip(doing the air bladder shortening mod, but can't get the clamp back on now)
1 Iron Man Magstrike(ARs removed, OPRV removed, trigger safety mech removed)
1 Titan-Maverick integration(named the "Chimera"), with BendyStraw's Absolver Scattergun SG-7 mod
1 Over Under(which I call Two-Face, because one side has been mutilated with a Dremel, and one side is perfect)

R.I.P: A Tek 6, my precious Longshot, 1 AirTech 1000, 1 SSII, a RapidFire 20, a sawed-off Doubleshot, a Maverick(which I used for my Scattergun Titan-Maverick), 2 BBBs(scrapped for springs), and countless others...

I've checked metal shops, hobby shops, and my final resort was ACE. Everyone says you can find 17/32 brass at ACE, but I have called them and they said they didn't have any! Their site said the same. I'm absolutely stuck! Where(besides the internet)can I find brass? Or, if someone could, give me a link to the part on ACE's website, assuming there is one, that shows that they carry 17/32 brass.

Back on topic, this thing sounds like a mini-beast. Might be hard to mod.

Oh boy. I was right.

EDIT: Ohmigod. It's that simple to connect the chains? I am loving this gun more and more every sentence I read about it.

Would it be possible to cut off everything but the part that activates the switch on the ammo box, and just hand feed it? That would be great.