Measured them, they're 9.5x13mm.
Heres 2 on the back of my Rayven.

Nobody has given him an exact response for what to buy, so...
 
I have ordered from these links before, both work as expected.
 
18 AWG wire (Black and red): http://www.banggood....e-p-921159.html
18AWG is all you need. The resistance wont worry you anyway, no point wasting that extra money and space inside your blaster.
 
Microswitch: http://www.ebay.com....m//321705842639
The microswitch is rated high enough for the job. Ive used higher rated switches before, no noticeable difference between them.

I saw a video (Bay Area Nerf, maybe?) where they submerged a Hammershot for five minutes, melting the gun entirely... by the time they tried to pull the gun apart with two vehicles I realized they were being facetious.

Even so, I don't want to ruin my 2K... unfortunately I can't get the barrels off to be able to cut where I want to until the glued piece is removed.

I'll try the dipping method... thanks for the tips guys.

Good demolisher rewire tutorial: https://www.youtube....h?v=fsj_G2gGxoc
 
Never rewire while a battery is attached. Follow that rule, and cuttin g a wire will never result in things blowing up.
 
After a rewire, always test with normal AA batteries first. If they heat up or act weird, you have a short (which would be bad with the various lithium batteries). If everything seems good, then put in your NiMH'lithium/whatever batteries.
 
"protected" trustfires

 
No

This continues to be my spare time hobby.  I've almost finished a home made reflow oven so that I might begin making my own PCBs. But the project is moving slow.  For that I'm sorry everyone, I know many of you have expressed interest in this endeavor.  I do intend to complete it, and I will contact you all when it is completed.
 
Thank you all!  And enjoy playing Nerf!
 
 - Technician Gimmick

ok so a large catch/feed bag like BritNerf's box would be a good idea. 
from what i see the chain sections are the breach/chamber. do the darts fit nice and snug? could this be why the blaster's inconsistent.
 
i do have one coming. hope it gets here soon.

I couldn't move the EAT anymore forward without making the rayvens thumbhole stock unable to reach the handle and I didnt want to build a peice to bridge the gap with an odd looking peice. As Far as moving the rayven down it would have make the back peice of the alpha trooper stick out or even interfere with the plunger rod.

It doesn't really need one. The stock motor can handle way more than the gears the motor drives can.

A little confused on this, are you basically saying make sure that the circuit isn't going to try to draw more than the batteries are capable of out-putting?

Also, as far as the circuit is concerned, it's probably best to minimize resistance by going larger on the circuits (wire gauge, switches) than what the motors can draw/batteries can output, right? Meaning, even if 18 ga wire will work, 16 ga wire/higher amp rating components will provide a better flow... correct?

Wow that's not what I expected, at least between the regular/pro Eneloops, figured it'd be the other way around. Guess I'll have to get the standard ones out and give it a go. Double bonus as they supposedly have more recharge cycles than the pros as well.

Would you consider it necessary to upgrade anything else running these 130's with NiMH batteries? Wiring? Switches? I know thermistors/locks/etc need to go... I was wondering if, while I have them gutted, for the sake of minimizing resistance/maximizing rev speed/time, if I should open up the circuits a bit more?

Thanks!

Lol I don't have a drill. Even if I did I probably won't do it.

what? 2 screws on the bottom won't come out. I just want to upgrade the spring and seals not disassemble it completely.

Thanks but what I'm hearing is... I'm screwed.
Goddamn it the triad costs 12 dollars in Korea...

 
I do most of my nerfing during HvZ at my college. It's at UMBC on Mondays and Thursdays at 7 if you ever want to come by. We have a larger invitational event in the spring as well.
 
Would certainly like to go to Apoc one day though.

I haven't had a problem using hot glue to hold in a microswitch either, as long as the I modified the shells so that they were both "sandwiching" the microswitch with the hot glue merely acting like something to hold it in place for the shells to do their work.

You're very welcome!  I remember about a year or two ago I looked at a long list of CAD software and tried to pick out the "best" one.  I have chosen wisely.
 
It looks like I'll only be able to work on the design on the weekends, so I will be curious to find out how other people improve it.
 
MAV and DjOnslaught, I wonder when the next war in Maryland will be. Baltimore, NYC, the NJ shore, and York, PA are all within a 2 hour drive from Trevose, PA.

 
I went to this war (in Waldorf, MD) and had a blast, but not with my Stryfe.  During round 1, I learned the hard way that I shouldn't use hot glue to secure a microswitch.  Fortunately, I had a secondary.  I fought the entire war with my Strongarm and two pockets full of rolled up socks.