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#322091 Mcmaster springs cheat sheet!

Posted by T da B on 29 September 2012 - 03:35 AM in Modifications

Hi everyone! I recently quit video games and decided to pick up a new hobby. I settled on Nerf modding! This is my first post ever, and I wanted to provide some useful information for the NIC. I have a background in electrical engineering and computer science, so I decided to put my skills to use! I hope you guys find this guide enlightening--it certainly was for me!

People can feel a little overwhelmed by the number of springs on mcmaster.com--I sure was when I first started out! Eventually, I stumbled upon this post, which clearly explained how to obtain all spring properties given the weird Mcmaster constant (now changed to a rate constant) and other spring attributes. I decided to write a computer program (in Python) incorporating all the variables from Ozymandias's spreadsheet in the post I just linked.

The math was very simple--most of the time was spent making the output look pretty. My program creates spring objects that are initialized with their Mcmaster constants. I then wrote functions to print out various properties for various springs of various lengths with various compression. Say, for example, you want to find out how much power a 5 inch [k26] puts out with 3 inches of draw. You could write out a bunch of equations on paper and figure it out, or you could plug the [k26] values into my program, create the [k26] spring object, and print out all the useful data. Here is an example of my program's output for the [k26] spring:

[ [k26] ]
========================================
Deflection rate = 0.7528
Max load = 32.13 lbs (14.58 kg)
--------------------
length = 1 in
spring constant = 42.69 lbs/in
max draw = 0.75 in
--------------------
length = 2 in
spring constant = 21.34 lbs/in
max draw = 1.51 in
1 inch draw produces 21.34 lbs (9.68 kg) of force
--------------------
length = 3 in
spring constant = 14.23 lbs/in
max draw = 2.26 in
1 inch draw produces 14.23 lbs (6.45 kg) of force
2 inch draw produces 28.46 lbs (12.91 kg) of force
--------------------
length = 4 in
spring constant = 10.67 lbs/in
max draw = 3.01 in
1 inch draw produces 10.67 lbs (4.84 kg) of force
2 inch draw produces 21.34 lbs (9.68 kg) of force
3 inch draw produces 32.01 lbs (14.52 kg) of force
--------------------
length = 5 in
spring constant = 8.54 lbs/in
max draw = 3.76 in
1 inch draw produces 8.54 lbs (3.87 kg) of force
2 inch draw produces 17.07 lbs (7.74 kg) of force
3 inch draw produces 25.61 lbs (11.62 kg) of force
--------------------
length = 6 in
spring constant = 7.11 lbs/in
max draw = 4.52 in
1 inch draw produces 7.11 lbs (3.23 kg) of force
2 inch draw produces 14.23 lbs (6.45 kg) of force
3 inch draw produces 21.34 lbs (9.68 kg) of force
4 inch draw produces 28.46 lbs (12.91 kg) of force
--------------------
length = 7 in
spring constant = 6.10 lbs/in
max draw = 5.27 in
1 inch draw produces 6.10 lbs (2.77 kg) of force
2 inch draw produces 12.20 lbs (5.53 kg) of force
3 inch draw produces 18.29 lbs (8.30 kg) of force
4 inch draw produces 24.39 lbs (11.06 kg) of force
5 inch draw produces 30.49 lbs (13.83 kg) of force
--------------------
length = 8 in
spring constant = 5.34 lbs/in
max draw = 6.02 in
1 inch draw produces 5.34 lbs (2.42 kg) of force
2 inch draw produces 10.67 lbs (4.84 kg) of force
3 inch draw produces 16.01 lbs (7.26 kg) of force
4 inch draw produces 21.34 lbs (9.68 kg) of force
5 inch draw produces 26.68 lbs (12.10 kg) of force
6 inch draw produces 32.01 lbs (14.52 kg) of force
--------------------
length = 9 in
spring constant = 4.74 lbs/in
max draw = 6.78 in
1 inch draw produces 4.74 lbs (2.15 kg) of force
2 inch draw produces 9.49 lbs (4.30 kg) of force
3 inch draw produces 14.23 lbs (6.45 kg) of force
4 inch draw produces 18.97 lbs (8.61 kg) of force
5 inch draw produces 23.71 lbs (10.76 kg) of force
6 inch draw produces 28.46 lbs (12.91 kg) of force
--------------------
length = 10 in
spring constant = 4.27 lbs/in
max draw = 7.53 in
1 inch draw produces 4.27 lbs (1.94 kg) of force
2 inch draw produces 8.54 lbs (3.87 kg) of force
3 inch draw produces 12.81 lbs (5.81 kg) of force
4 inch draw produces 17.07 lbs (7.74 kg) of force
5 inch draw produces 21.34 lbs (9.68 kg) of force
6 inch draw produces 25.61 lbs (11.62 kg) of force
7 inch draw produces 29.88 lbs (13.55 kg) of force
--------------------
length = 11 in
spring constant = 3.88 lbs/in
max draw = 8.28 in
1 inch draw produces 3.88 lbs (1.76 kg) of force
2 inch draw produces 7.76 lbs (3.52 kg) of force
3 inch draw produces 11.64 lbs (5.28 kg) of force
4 inch draw produces 15.52 lbs (7.04 kg) of force
5 inch draw produces 19.40 lbs (8.80 kg) of force
6 inch draw produces 23.28 lbs (10.56 kg) of force
7 inch draw produces 27.16 lbs (12.32 kg) of force
8 inch draw produces 31.04 lbs (14.08 kg) of force
--------------------
30.00 lbs of force with a 3.00 inch draw requires a 4.27 inch spring

As you can see, you get pretty much everything you've ever wanted to know about the [k26]. My code is very simple, and it's very easy to plug in values for any cut-to-length compression spring in the McMaster catalog using Ozymandias's spreadsheet. I will now post the actual code. To run it, download Python off python.org and install it. It should already come with the IDLE editor. Just open up IDLE, paste the code in, and hit F5 to run it. Of course, you can add any springs you want. Here is the code:

#!/usr/bin/env python
"""
spring.py

A simple spring class that shines light on the properties of
Mcmaster cut-to-length compression springs.
"""

__author__ = "Thomas Megantz a.k.a. T da B"

class Spring(object):
    def __init__(self, name, rate_constant, coils_per_inch,
                 max_length, wire_diameter):
        self.name = name
        self.rate_constant = rate_constant
        self.coils_per_inch = coils_per_inch
        self.max_length = max_length
        self.wire_diameter = wire_diameter
        self.deflection_rate = 1 - (self.coils_per_inch * self.wire_diameter)
        self.k = self.rate_constant / self.max_length
        self.max_load = self.deflection_rate * self.rate_constant

    def print_stats(self):
        print '[ {0} ]'.format(self.name)
        print '='*40
        print 'Deflection rate = ' + str(self.deflection_rate)
        print 'Max load = {0:.2f} lbs ({1:.2f} kg)'.format(self.max_load, self.max_load/2.20462)
        print '-'*20
        for length in range(self.max_length):
            print 'length = ' + str(length+1) + ' in'
            spring_constant = self.rate_constant/(length+1)
            print 'spring constant = {0:.2f} lbs/in'.format(spring_constant)
            max_draw = (length+1)*self.deflection_rate
            print 'max draw = {0:.2f} in'.format(max_draw)
            for draw in range(1, int(max_draw)+2):
                if draw <= max_draw:
                    print ('{0} inch draw produces {1:.2f} lbs ({2:.2f} kg) of '
                           'force').format(draw, draw*spring_constant, draw*spring_constant/2.20462)
            print "-" * 20

    def get_length_for_load(self, draw, desired_load):
        spring_constant = desired_load / draw
        length = self.rate_constant / spring_constant
        print ("{0:.2f} lbs of force with a {1:.2f} inch draw requires a "
               "{2:.2f} inch spring").format(desired_load, draw, length)

def print_spring_data():
    # Add any springs here
    [k26] = Spring(name='[k26]', rate_constant=42.69, coils_per_inch=3.09, max_length=11, wire_diameter=.08)
    [k25] = Spring(name='[k25]', rate_constant=38.53, coils_per_inch=2.18, max_length=11, wire_diameter=.08)
    k18 = Spring(name='K18', rate_constant=32.92, coils_per_inch=2.09, max_length=11, wire_diameter=.091)
    k15 = Spring(name='K15', rate_constant=67.98, coils_per_inch=4, max_length=11, wire_diameter=.105)
    k14 = Spring(name='K14', rate_constant=73.96, coils_per_inch=2.45, max_length=11, wire_diameter=.105)

    # Make sure to add any new springs into the list below
    springs = [[k26], [k25], k18, k15, k14]

    for spring in springs:
        spring.print_stats()
        spring.get_length_for_load(3, 30)
        print "=" * 40

if __name__ == '__main__':
    print_spring_data()


Let me know what you guys think! I hope this helps the NIC as much as it helps me in selecting my springs and cutting them appropriately. For anyone who can't handle downloading Python and copy/pasting, let me know if you want me to paste output for other springs in Ozymandias's spreadsheet. Happy nerfing!

~T da B



#322096 Mcmaster springs cheat sheet!

Posted by T da B on 29 September 2012 - 11:23 AM in Modifications

Thanks for the feedback, guys! Unfortunately, I don't have a site or blog, so I guess I just post the data for 4 other popular springs ([k26], K18, K15, and K14) here. Enjoy!

[ [k25] ]
========================================
Deflection rate = 0.8256
Max load = 31.81 lbs (14.43 kg)
--------------------
length = 1 in
spring constant = 38.53 lbs/in
max draw = 0.83 in
--------------------
length = 2 in
spring constant = 19.27 lbs/in
max draw = 1.65 in
1 inch draw produces 19.27 lbs (8.74 kg) of force
--------------------
length = 3 in
spring constant = 12.84 lbs/in
max draw = 2.48 in
1 inch draw produces 12.84 lbs (5.83 kg) of force
2 inch draw produces 25.69 lbs (11.65 kg) of force
--------------------
length = 4 in
spring constant = 9.63 lbs/in
max draw = 3.30 in
1 inch draw produces 9.63 lbs (4.37 kg) of force
2 inch draw produces 19.27 lbs (8.74 kg) of force
3 inch draw produces 28.90 lbs (13.11 kg) of force
--------------------
length = 5 in
spring constant = 7.71 lbs/in
max draw = 4.13 in
1 inch draw produces 7.71 lbs (3.50 kg) of force
2 inch draw produces 15.41 lbs (6.99 kg) of force
3 inch draw produces 23.12 lbs (10.49 kg) of force
4 inch draw produces 30.83 lbs (13.98 kg) of force
--------------------
length = 6 in
spring constant = 6.42 lbs/in
max draw = 4.95 in
1 inch draw produces 6.42 lbs (2.91 kg) of force
2 inch draw produces 12.84 lbs (5.83 kg) of force
3 inch draw produces 19.27 lbs (8.74 kg) of force
4 inch draw produces 25.69 lbs (11.65 kg) of force
--------------------
length = 7 in
spring constant = 5.50 lbs/in
max draw = 5.78 in
1 inch draw produces 5.50 lbs (2.50 kg) of force
2 inch draw produces 11.01 lbs (4.99 kg) of force
3 inch draw produces 16.51 lbs (7.49 kg) of force
4 inch draw produces 22.02 lbs (9.99 kg) of force
5 inch draw produces 27.52 lbs (12.48 kg) of force
--------------------
length = 8 in
spring constant = 4.82 lbs/in
max draw = 6.60 in
1 inch draw produces 4.82 lbs (2.18 kg) of force
2 inch draw produces 9.63 lbs (4.37 kg) of force
3 inch draw produces 14.45 lbs (6.55 kg) of force
4 inch draw produces 19.27 lbs (8.74 kg) of force
5 inch draw produces 24.08 lbs (10.92 kg) of force
6 inch draw produces 28.90 lbs (13.11 kg) of force
--------------------
length = 9 in
spring constant = 4.28 lbs/in
max draw = 7.43 in
1 inch draw produces 4.28 lbs (1.94 kg) of force
2 inch draw produces 8.56 lbs (3.88 kg) of force
3 inch draw produces 12.84 lbs (5.83 kg) of force
4 inch draw produces 17.13 lbs (7.77 kg) of force
5 inch draw produces 21.41 lbs (9.71 kg) of force
6 inch draw produces 25.69 lbs (11.65 kg) of force
7 inch draw produces 29.97 lbs (13.59 kg) of force
--------------------
length = 10 in
spring constant = 3.85 lbs/in
max draw = 8.26 in
1 inch draw produces 3.85 lbs (1.75 kg) of force
2 inch draw produces 7.71 lbs (3.50 kg) of force
3 inch draw produces 11.56 lbs (5.24 kg) of force
4 inch draw produces 15.41 lbs (6.99 kg) of force
5 inch draw produces 19.27 lbs (8.74 kg) of force
6 inch draw produces 23.12 lbs (10.49 kg) of force
7 inch draw produces 26.97 lbs (12.23 kg) of force
8 inch draw produces 30.83 lbs (13.98 kg) of force
--------------------
length = 11 in
spring constant = 3.50 lbs/in
max draw = 9.08 in
1 inch draw produces 3.50 lbs (1.59 kg) of force
2 inch draw produces 7.01 lbs (3.18 kg) of force
3 inch draw produces 10.51 lbs (4.77 kg) of force
4 inch draw produces 14.01 lbs (6.36 kg) of force
5 inch draw produces 17.51 lbs (7.94 kg) of force
6 inch draw produces 21.02 lbs (9.53 kg) of force
7 inch draw produces 24.52 lbs (11.12 kg) of force
8 inch draw produces 28.02 lbs (12.71 kg) of force
9 inch draw produces 31.53 lbs (14.30 kg) of force
--------------------
30.00 lbs of force with a 3.00 inch draw requires a 3.85 inch spring
========================================
[ K18 ]
========================================
Deflection rate = 0.80981
Max load = 26.66 lbs (12.09 kg)
--------------------
length = 1 in
spring constant = 32.92 lbs/in
max draw = 0.81 in
--------------------
length = 2 in
spring constant = 16.46 lbs/in
max draw = 1.62 in
1 inch draw produces 16.46 lbs (7.47 kg) of force
--------------------
length = 3 in
spring constant = 10.97 lbs/in
max draw = 2.43 in
1 inch draw produces 10.97 lbs (4.98 kg) of force
2 inch draw produces 21.95 lbs (9.95 kg) of force
--------------------
length = 4 in
spring constant = 8.23 lbs/in
max draw = 3.24 in
1 inch draw produces 8.23 lbs (3.73 kg) of force
2 inch draw produces 16.46 lbs (7.47 kg) of force
3 inch draw produces 24.69 lbs (11.20 kg) of force
--------------------
length = 5 in
spring constant = 6.58 lbs/in
max draw = 4.05 in
1 inch draw produces 6.58 lbs (2.99 kg) of force
2 inch draw produces 13.17 lbs (5.97 kg) of force
3 inch draw produces 19.75 lbs (8.96 kg) of force
4 inch draw produces 26.33 lbs (11.95 kg) of force
--------------------
length = 6 in
spring constant = 5.49 lbs/in
max draw = 4.86 in
1 inch draw produces 5.49 lbs (2.49 kg) of force
2 inch draw produces 10.97 lbs (4.98 kg) of force
3 inch draw produces 16.46 lbs (7.47 kg) of force
4 inch draw produces 21.95 lbs (9.95 kg) of force
--------------------
length = 7 in
spring constant = 4.70 lbs/in
max draw = 5.67 in
1 inch draw produces 4.70 lbs (2.13 kg) of force
2 inch draw produces 9.41 lbs (4.27 kg) of force
3 inch draw produces 14.11 lbs (6.40 kg) of force
4 inch draw produces 18.81 lbs (8.53 kg) of force
5 inch draw produces 23.51 lbs (10.67 kg) of force
--------------------
length = 8 in
spring constant = 4.11 lbs/in
max draw = 6.48 in
1 inch draw produces 4.11 lbs (1.87 kg) of force
2 inch draw produces 8.23 lbs (3.73 kg) of force
3 inch draw produces 12.34 lbs (5.60 kg) of force
4 inch draw produces 16.46 lbs (7.47 kg) of force
5 inch draw produces 20.57 lbs (9.33 kg) of force
6 inch draw produces 24.69 lbs (11.20 kg) of force
--------------------
length = 9 in
spring constant = 3.66 lbs/in
max draw = 7.29 in
1 inch draw produces 3.66 lbs (1.66 kg) of force
2 inch draw produces 7.32 lbs (3.32 kg) of force
3 inch draw produces 10.97 lbs (4.98 kg) of force
4 inch draw produces 14.63 lbs (6.64 kg) of force
5 inch draw produces 18.29 lbs (8.30 kg) of force
6 inch draw produces 21.95 lbs (9.95 kg) of force
7 inch draw produces 25.60 lbs (11.61 kg) of force
--------------------
length = 10 in
spring constant = 3.29 lbs/in
max draw = 8.10 in
1 inch draw produces 3.29 lbs (1.49 kg) of force
2 inch draw produces 6.58 lbs (2.99 kg) of force
3 inch draw produces 9.88 lbs (4.48 kg) of force
4 inch draw produces 13.17 lbs (5.97 kg) of force
5 inch draw produces 16.46 lbs (7.47 kg) of force
6 inch draw produces 19.75 lbs (8.96 kg) of force
7 inch draw produces 23.04 lbs (10.45 kg) of force
8 inch draw produces 26.33 lbs (11.95 kg) of force
--------------------
length = 11 in
spring constant = 2.99 lbs/in
max draw = 8.91 in
1 inch draw produces 2.99 lbs (1.36 kg) of force
2 inch draw produces 5.99 lbs (2.71 kg) of force
3 inch draw produces 8.98 lbs (4.07 kg) of force
4 inch draw produces 11.97 lbs (5.43 kg) of force
5 inch draw produces 14.96 lbs (6.79 kg) of force
6 inch draw produces 17.96 lbs (8.14 kg) of force
7 inch draw produces 20.95 lbs (9.50 kg) of force
8 inch draw produces 23.94 lbs (10.86 kg) of force
--------------------
30.00 lbs of force with a 3.00 inch draw requires a 3.29 inch spring
========================================
[ K15 ]
========================================
Deflection rate = 0.58
Max load = 39.43 lbs (17.88 kg)
--------------------
length = 1 in
spring constant = 67.97 lbs/in
max draw = 0.58 in
--------------------
length = 2 in
spring constant = 33.99 lbs/in
max draw = 1.16 in
1 inch draw produces 33.99 lbs (15.42 kg) of force
--------------------
length = 3 in
spring constant = 22.66 lbs/in
max draw = 1.74 in
1 inch draw produces 22.66 lbs (10.28 kg) of force
--------------------
length = 4 in
spring constant = 16.99 lbs/in
max draw = 2.32 in
1 inch draw produces 16.99 lbs (7.71 kg) of force
2 inch draw produces 33.99 lbs (15.42 kg) of force
--------------------
length = 5 in
spring constant = 13.59 lbs/in
max draw = 2.90 in
1 inch draw produces 13.59 lbs (6.17 kg) of force
2 inch draw produces 27.19 lbs (12.33 kg) of force
--------------------
length = 6 in
spring constant = 11.33 lbs/in
max draw = 3.48 in
1 inch draw produces 11.33 lbs (5.14 kg) of force
2 inch draw produces 22.66 lbs (10.28 kg) of force
3 inch draw produces 33.99 lbs (15.42 kg) of force
--------------------
length = 7 in
spring constant = 9.71 lbs/in
max draw = 4.06 in
1 inch draw produces 9.71 lbs (4.40 kg) of force
2 inch draw produces 19.42 lbs (8.81 kg) of force
3 inch draw produces 29.13 lbs (13.21 kg) of force
4 inch draw produces 38.84 lbs (17.62 kg) of force
--------------------
length = 8 in
spring constant = 8.50 lbs/in
max draw = 4.64 in
1 inch draw produces 8.50 lbs (3.85 kg) of force
2 inch draw produces 16.99 lbs (7.71 kg) of force
3 inch draw produces 25.49 lbs (11.56 kg) of force
4 inch draw produces 33.99 lbs (15.42 kg) of force
--------------------
length = 9 in
spring constant = 7.55 lbs/in
max draw = 5.22 in
1 inch draw produces 7.55 lbs (3.43 kg) of force
2 inch draw produces 15.11 lbs (6.85 kg) of force
3 inch draw produces 22.66 lbs (10.28 kg) of force
4 inch draw produces 30.21 lbs (13.70 kg) of force
5 inch draw produces 37.76 lbs (17.13 kg) of force
--------------------
length = 10 in
spring constant = 6.80 lbs/in
max draw = 5.80 in
1 inch draw produces 6.80 lbs (3.08 kg) of force
2 inch draw produces 13.59 lbs (6.17 kg) of force
3 inch draw produces 20.39 lbs (9.25 kg) of force
4 inch draw produces 27.19 lbs (12.33 kg) of force
5 inch draw produces 33.99 lbs (15.42 kg) of force
--------------------
length = 11 in
spring constant = 6.18 lbs/in
max draw = 6.38 in
1 inch draw produces 6.18 lbs (2.80 kg) of force
2 inch draw produces 12.36 lbs (5.61 kg) of force
3 inch draw produces 18.54 lbs (8.41 kg) of force
4 inch draw produces 24.72 lbs (11.21 kg) of force
5 inch draw produces 30.90 lbs (14.01 kg) of force
6 inch draw produces 37.08 lbs (16.82 kg) of force
--------------------
30.00 lbs of force with a 3.00 inch draw requires a 6.80 inch spring
========================================
[ K14 ]
========================================
Deflection rate = 0.74275
Max load = 54.93 lbs (24.92 kg)
--------------------
length = 1 in
spring constant = 73.96 lbs/in
max draw = 0.74 in
--------------------
length = 2 in
spring constant = 36.98 lbs/in
max draw = 1.49 in
1 inch draw produces 36.98 lbs (16.77 kg) of force
--------------------
length = 3 in
spring constant = 24.65 lbs/in
max draw = 2.23 in
1 inch draw produces 24.65 lbs (11.18 kg) of force
2 inch draw produces 49.31 lbs (22.36 kg) of force
--------------------
length = 4 in
spring constant = 18.49 lbs/in
max draw = 2.97 in
1 inch draw produces 18.49 lbs (8.39 kg) of force
2 inch draw produces 36.98 lbs (16.77 kg) of force
--------------------
length = 5 in
spring constant = 14.79 lbs/in
max draw = 3.71 in
1 inch draw produces 14.79 lbs (6.71 kg) of force
2 inch draw produces 29.58 lbs (13.42 kg) of force
3 inch draw produces 44.38 lbs (20.13 kg) of force
--------------------
length = 6 in
spring constant = 12.33 lbs/in
max draw = 4.46 in
1 inch draw produces 12.33 lbs (5.59 kg) of force
2 inch draw produces 24.65 lbs (11.18 kg) of force
3 inch draw produces 36.98 lbs (16.77 kg) of force
4 inch draw produces 49.31 lbs (22.36 kg) of force
--------------------
length = 7 in
spring constant = 10.57 lbs/in
max draw = 5.20 in
1 inch draw produces 10.57 lbs (4.79 kg) of force
2 inch draw produces 21.13 lbs (9.58 kg) of force
3 inch draw produces 31.70 lbs (14.38 kg) of force
4 inch draw produces 42.26 lbs (19.17 kg) of force
5 inch draw produces 52.83 lbs (23.96 kg) of force
--------------------
length = 8 in
spring constant = 9.24 lbs/in
max draw = 5.94 in
1 inch draw produces 9.24 lbs (4.19 kg) of force
2 inch draw produces 18.49 lbs (8.39 kg) of force
3 inch draw produces 27.73 lbs (12.58 kg) of force
4 inch draw produces 36.98 lbs (16.77 kg) of force
5 inch draw produces 46.22 lbs (20.97 kg) of force
--------------------
length = 9 in
spring constant = 8.22 lbs/in
max draw = 6.68 in
1 inch draw produces 8.22 lbs (3.73 kg) of force
2 inch draw produces 16.44 lbs (7.45 kg) of force
3 inch draw produces 24.65 lbs (11.18 kg) of force
4 inch draw produces 32.87 lbs (14.91 kg) of force
5 inch draw produces 41.09 lbs (18.64 kg) of force
6 inch draw produces 49.31 lbs (22.36 kg) of force
--------------------
length = 10 in
spring constant = 7.40 lbs/in
max draw = 7.43 in
1 inch draw produces 7.40 lbs (3.35 kg) of force
2 inch draw produces 14.79 lbs (6.71 kg) of force
3 inch draw produces 22.19 lbs (10.06 kg) of force
4 inch draw produces 29.58 lbs (13.42 kg) of force
5 inch draw produces 36.98 lbs (16.77 kg) of force
6 inch draw produces 44.38 lbs (20.13 kg) of force
7 inch draw produces 51.77 lbs (23.48 kg) of force
--------------------
length = 11 in
spring constant = 6.72 lbs/in
max draw = 8.17 in
1 inch draw produces 6.72 lbs (3.05 kg) of force
2 inch draw produces 13.45 lbs (6.10 kg) of force
3 inch draw produces 20.17 lbs (9.15 kg) of force
4 inch draw produces 26.89 lbs (12.20 kg) of force
5 inch draw produces 33.62 lbs (15.25 kg) of force
6 inch draw produces 40.34 lbs (18.30 kg) of force
7 inch draw produces 47.06 lbs (21.35 kg) of force
8 inch draw produces 53.79 lbs (24.40 kg) of force
--------------------
30.00 lbs of force with a 3.00 inch draw requires a 7.40 inch spring
========================================



#322149 Mcmaster springs cheat sheet!

Posted by T da B on 02 October 2012 - 01:36 AM in Modifications

Here's a little something to wrap your mind around: no matter what length of spring you have, if you compress it all the way you will ALWAYS get the same max load value! Pretty crazy, eh?



#323538 Airtech 3000 Bling Internals!

Posted by T da B on 13 November 2012 - 05:58 PM in Modifications

Hi guys,

This is my first real mod write-up--I have created a monster! It was inspired by SGNerf's Airtech 3000 that he decked out with pneumatics. Hope you guys enjoy it!

Airtech 3000 Bling Internals!

Cheers,
~T da B

USER WAS WARNED FOR THIS POST

Don't post here just to plug your own site.



#323544 Airtech 3000 Bling Internals

Posted by T da B on 13 November 2012 - 11:46 PM in Modifications

Background:
This will be my first proper write-up! Let me start out by saying this mod is not for those on a tight budget. Should you choose to accept this quest, your components are going to run you $100+. You might think this is a little over-the-top, but you'll put those feelings aside when you see how well it performs. This will be the powerful thing that I have ever created, and it's all thanks to getting inspired by this writeup from SGNerf! I got the components from SGNerf, but I followed Ryan Mc#'s writeup for the modding. Without further adieu, let's create a monster!

Required Materials:
Posted Image

Clockwise from top left:

  • 3846K431 - Multipurpose Gauge, Steel Case, 2" Dial, 1/8 NPT Center Back, 0-100 PSI connected to 5779K129 - Nylon and Nickel-Plated Brass Tube Fitting, Adapter for 1/4" Tube OD X 1/8" NPT Female Pipe
  • 1096T2 - Nylon/Nickel-Plated Brass Check Valve with Fitting, 1/4" Tube OD X 1/4" Tube OD, Buna-N Seal
  • 50265K2 - Multirange Brass Pop-Safety Valve, 1/4 NPT Male, 25-200 PSI connected to
  • 5779K131 - Nylon and Nickel-Plated Brass Tube Fitting, Adapter for 1/4" Tube OD X 1/4" NPT Female Pipe
  • 2x 5779K34 - Nylon Tee for 1/4'' Tube OD
  • Schrader to 1/4'' Push-to-Connect adapter from This ebay listing (might be gone)
  • Topeak Mini G dual action bike pump from http://bikes.oversto...ouseonline.com/
  • 5181K231 - Crack-Resistant Polyethylene Tubing, .170" ID, 1/4" OD, .04" Wall Thickness, Red, 50' L

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For my barrel material, I went with 2044T43 - Cut-to-Length Round Plastic Tube, .53" Inside Diameter, 4' Length. This tubing is made of polyethylene and is WAY cheaper than Mcmaster's PETG tubing. It is moderately strong when all six barrels are glued to a couple of turret spacers. I will be using 13'' barrels for this blaster.

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This is a pair of barrel spacers made by Venom213 of Nerfhaven. His sales page for these is here. They serve to keep the barrels perfectly aligned as well as adding structural integrity to the entire turret. I went with 19/32'' holes to fit the Mcmaster polyethylene tubing perfectly.

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On the left is 1/8'' oil-resistant Buna-N rubber, Mcmaster part # 8635K164. This is what I use for my air tank to turret seals these days. It works magnificently! On the right is some Vinyl (PVC) tubing that I got at Orchard Supply Hardware. I decided that the 25 feet of polyethylene tubing I bought is too rigid. Yeah, I know--I'm an idiot for buying 25 feet of it. The problem with this project is that you have to cram a lot of components into a relatively small space. Inside the AT3K shell a lot of the space is taken up by the trigger, firing pin, and air tank. I needed flexible tubing to do the job, so that's the explanation for that one.

Write-up:
  • Start by taking the blaster apart. Don't worry--there aren't any glued on pieces that require boiling water on this blaster! However, there are very small nubs along the rim of the shell that fit into very small holes in the other half. If you bend the shell too much getting the two halves apart, you risk snapping off some if these nubs. I don't think they're essential, since there are enough screws to hold everything together.
  • Remove the turret by unscrewing the screw at the rear end of the rotation mechanism. When disassembled, it should look like this:
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  • Drill 1/2'' holes into the back of the turret and chop down the barrels. It should look like this:
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  • Cut 6 pieces of polyethylene tubing (or whatever barrel material you use) into equal lengths. I went with 13'' barrels--the rationale behind this was that a proper Supermaxx 1500 takes 12'' barrels and the AT3K has a bigger air tank. Insert your barrels into the orange turret; they should slide in perfectly with no dremeling! Then slide your barrel spacers over the barrels into the spots you want them to occupy. Move them slightly, then mark a dot with a sharpie on each barrel at equal lengths away from the spacer. This will mark the spot where you will glue. Slide the spacers back into position over the black dots. Now you will go one at a time--pulling a barrel out slightly, applying glue at the base and at your black dots, then twisting it into position. When complete, it should look like this:
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  • Now it's time to dremel down the shells. I dremeled behind the handle--this opening will house my pop-safety valve. Cut a hole in the top half of the shell for rear loading. I agree with Ryan McNumbers's statement that any air blaster that isn't rear loading sucks to use. You will also need to dremel a slot on both sides of the shell in front of the trigger guard to house the bike pump. Dremel out a hole in the back of the blaster for the PSI gauge--I basically just got rid of the "bump" that stick out of the rear of the blaster. It should look like this:
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  • Now it's time to prepare the air tank. Take everything out except the air tank unit itself. The rotation mechanism will be discarded for this mod guide, since the Topeak bike pump isn't compatible with the rotation mech. I used two pieces of 1/8'' Oil-resistant Buna-N rubber and epoxied them onto the air outlet. This will allow for a perfect seal with the turret! After the epoxy cures, I am going to hot glue a "half-pipe" piece of CPVC onto the side of the air tank to act as a dart-loading guide. Your air tank should look like this:
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  • Now it's time to reassemble the turret. Lube up the rubber and the entire back of the turret so you can minimize the friction between the plastic and rubber. I also sanded down the back of the turret with fine sandpaper to eliminate any sharp edges that might file down the rubber. I took a piece of CPVC and cut it in half length-wise to act as sort of a "dart-loading guide." Hot glue it to the air tank. You'll notice that if you rotate the turret, the back of the metal turret shaft spins freely and gets kind of stuck. You will need to glue something to either the air tank or the inside of the blaster's shell to keep the rotation mech in place. I used a piece of CPVC. To secure my bike pump to the shell, I will be using velcro straps. I took a piece of clear PVC and glued it near the bottom of the shell to keep my front velcro strap from sliding back. After that, it's finally time to screw down the air tank assembly! Here's what everything should look like:
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  • I can't believe it's finally time for the bling! Time to turn the AT3K into a pneumatic uber blaster that would make any pimp proud. The trick is to get everything to fit without interfering with the trigger. Years of Tetris have made me an expert as saving space, so study the picture carefully. I decided to attach the PSI gauge with hot glue instead of brackets--I think it looks a lot cleaner this way. Also notice the piece of 3/4'' PVC behind the trigger--this was essential in preventing the trigger from riding upwards. If you remove the stock pump, there is nothing to guide the trigger smoothly and straight backwards. I hot glued a cylinder of 3/4'' PVC onto a small piece of 3/4'' PVC as a riser. Hot glue is good because you get infinite tries--it took me quite a few to get my alignment perfect. The pop-safety valve is hot glued into place as well. I glued my firing pin spring because I didn't have any small, super-strong springs that could handle 70 psi, which is what I intend to operate this blaster at. Tetris FTW!
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  • Finally, it's almost that time. The moment that took so much blood, sweat, and tears to reach--victory is near! It's time to put together both halves of the shell--I had to dremel down a little nub on the top half of the shell to get things to sit correctly. I used a couple strips of Velcro to hold my air tank snug against the shell. you can see the piece of clear PVC that serves as a Velcro spacer in the first picture. The gap I dremeled fit the Topeak pump almost perfectly! I hot glued the PSI gauge to the back of the shell as the final step and it seems to be holding pretty well. Isn't she beautiful? I'll have fps data coming soon!
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Performance:
Fellas, the Chrony results are in! The numbers are, as they should be, staggering! 2 pumps gets me slightly higher that 200 feet per second, and 3 pumps got me up to a maximum velocity of 341.5 feet per second! That was at 62 psi with #6 slug darts. This AT3K is officially banned in American paintball arenas :lol:

Cheers!

~T da B



#323549 Airtech 3000 Bling Internals

Posted by T da B on 14 November 2012 - 02:46 AM in Modifications

@Mully: Thanks a lot for the great feedback! It really motivates me to do great work.

@quertyman: It takes me 3 easy pumps to reach 60 psi, since my pump is dual action. Unfortunately, I don't have a tape measure long enough to measure the range!

@therealnerfjunkies: Haha you're right--it's definitely not war legal! I underwent this project to try and mod an air blaster to the max, and I think I've succeeded :) Thanks for the feedback!

Another thing I didn't mention is that I'm using Mod Man's red FBR. It has a very tight fit in my polyethylene tubing, yet shoots much harder than my thinner grey FBR. Anybody know why? This seems to disprove the hypothesis that air guns like a looser dart fit.

~T



#323565 Airtech 3000 Bling Internals

Posted by T da B on 14 November 2012 - 02:21 PM in Modifications

Good call on the tank reinforcement, guys! I will be doing that from now and on.

@Zorn: Yup, the gauge and pop-safety valve are there for safety and monitoring. You can count on a hard tank coming in the future :)

~T



#323682 BANO #3 Bananas unite!

Posted by T da B on 17 November 2012 - 11:18 PM in Nerf Wars

I'll definitely try and make it next week!



#323705 Airtech 3000 Bling Internals

Posted by T da B on 18 November 2012 - 07:22 PM in Modifications

@SonReece: Modularity was a big thing for this project--the push-to-connect fittings make it extremely easy to disconnect and reconnect things. I only wish I figured out a more elegant way to attach the psi gauge and make it easily detachable! In any case, I'm glad to have been an inspiration.

@Elmo: Mod Man's foam is very good foam, one of the best I've used yet. It's very dense, but not as dense as Swift foam, and has a tight fit in my polyethylene tubing as well as 17/32'' brass and Flowguard Gold CPVC. It has a snug fit in 9/16'' brass. Combined with my green felt tips from Mcmaster, I'm ready for some yuletide Nerfing :)

@SgNerf: Thanks for the great feedback--it really means a lot coming from one of my modding heroes! I can't thank you enough for your help--I know I bombarded your blog with about a million questions about your TP3K. Right now I'm working on your brass slide breech and brass breeched SMG Stampede, so prepare for more questions from me in the near future!


In the future, I might do a budget version of this write-up, using barbed fittings rather than push-to-connect and trimming down some of the higher cost components.

~T



#325067 Mcmaster springs cheat sheet!

Posted by T da B on 04 January 2013 - 07:09 PM in Modifications

Updated code to use Mcmaster's new "Rate Constant," which is just the free length * spring constant. Thankfully they got rid of their old constant which was much less intuitive.



#325301 AT3K help

Posted by T da B on 14 January 2013 - 02:14 PM in Modifications

Like DICE said, you are going to need a check valve connected right after your pump. Nerf pump housings have a built-in check valve, so if you replace the pump you will need to provide your own check valve. Also, each pump has its own max psi rating, so make sure you aren't exceeding it. If it is just a leak that needs to be patched, the other Nerfers have plenty of good suggestions.

~T da B



#325400 AT3K help

Posted by T da B on 17 January 2013 - 03:10 AM in Modifications

Hmmm, I mixed it enough I know. And I didn't crack it. What its standard procedure for vinyl tubing. And wouldn't pvc glue not adhere to the nylon?


PVC cement adheres PVC to PVC. I have tried it on other plastics and it simply doesn't work, most likely because the proper chemical reactions aren't taking place. Use something designed for general plastics. From my experience, JB Weld is not the greatest adhesive for plastic to plastic or things that flex.



#325715 BANO #4: Kicking off the season

Posted by T da B on 24 January 2013 - 03:48 PM in Nerf Wars

I'll see you guys there! I'll be selling Airtechs and other blasters as well.

~T da B



#325736 BANO #4: Kicking off the season

Posted by T da B on 24 January 2013 - 07:37 PM in Nerf Wars

9th works for me.



#325856 Question to all you modders

Posted by T da B on 26 January 2013 - 05:45 AM in General Nerf

I would like to see more electronics in blasters. Now that the cost of basic electronics is so low, why not incorporate some into blasters? Maybe an ammo counter, a range-finder, or how about some LEDs instead of a worthless laser sight?

Another thing I would love to see is foam obstacles, bunkers, and objects that can be placed in a Nerf battlefield.

I don't really care about bringing back any blasters from the past--Nerf should always be evolving!



#325897 Modification and Paintjob Pictures

Posted by T da B on 27 January 2013 - 05:01 AM in Modifications

Here's my hoppered Lego Atlantis Harpoon Blaster that I run off 5 pumps. Mods include the following:
  • 16-inch barrel made from schedule 80 PVC and polyethylene tubing
  • Plugged pump
  • Skewed hopper for better visibility
  • Only the wye is glued in place, allowing for interchangeable barrels and hoppers

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Check out the full write-up at my blog: http://nerfbuff.blogspot.com

Cheers!
~T da B



#326170 Log Home Help Foam questions

Posted by T da B on 30 January 2013 - 10:52 PM in Darts and Barrels

Both the LogHomeStore and Mod Man's red foam are an unusably tight fit in CPVC. I have yet to find a smaller diameter foam of high quality to fit CPVC. From my experience, the LogHomeStore foam is excellent, although very expensive (50 cents/foot). I did a foam review on my blog recently if you want to check out my comparison of 5 types of common foam.

~T da B



#326191 Log Home Help Foam questions

Posted by T da B on 31 January 2013 - 03:41 PM in Darts and Barrels

Throw out the misconception that there's such a thing as general springer fit in CPVC. CPVC has an incredibly variable ID.



Right--I totally forgot to mention that I'm using "Flowguard Gold" CPVC.

^ Not looking hard enough or too lazy to heat and stretch. Post again in like 5 years and you'll have barrels for everything you need, or take the time to get the results you want today.


Too lazy would be accurate. Also, I'm moving away from CPVC--all my hoppers and slide breeches are PVC-based and none of my good darts fit Flowguard Gold CPVC anyways.

I use cheap, trashy gray foam (mixed sources) most of the time and it brings in hits. Especially in this era of slugs and metal-free alternatives, the type of foam you are using does not matter as much as it did in the era of slingshot domes.


Totally disagree. Low-quality foam will deform very quickly and lose its accuracy and fit. Also, my stronger blasters often destroy shitty grey foam darts in one shot--quality blasters need quality foam. Besides longevity, I've also gotten significant range increases by using better foam.


Now I must ask--where does one get this "Pink MHA?"



#326497 BANO #4: Kicking off the season

Posted by T da B on 07 February 2013 - 07:11 PM in Nerf Wars

Dammit--I was really looking forward to my first Nerf war, but now it's just a pipe dream again. HOTH--lead the charge, buddy!



#327408 BANO #4: Revamped

Posted by T da B on 27 February 2013 - 05:52 PM in Nerf Wars

I am down, but it doesn't seem like too many Nerfers are active around the bay area. Some day I'll go to a war!



#327409 Nitefinder plunger head substitute?

Posted by T da B on 27 February 2013 - 06:08 PM in General Nerf

The "washer sandwich" is nice because it is cheap, easy, and takes up very little overall length. Make sure to make your fender washer on top as small as possible--this will prevent the creation of a vacuum between the dart and plunger head if you load before you prime. In addition, make your lower fender washer as big as possible in order to prevent open-ended springs from hooking over the rubber washer and also to allow the rubber washer to seal well on the forward stroke. My plunger heads are usually as follows (from top to bottom): 6-32 bolt, #6 washer (metal or neoprene), small fender washer, neoprene washer, biggest possible fender washer.

P.S. If your open-ended spring keeps hooking over the neoprene washer, you may need to add a "spring spacer," which is a piece of something that fits over the plunger rod and under the spring to keep it centered near the plunger head.



#327474 BANO #4: Revamped

Posted by T da B on 01 March 2013 - 02:13 PM in Nerf Wars

Yea, I think things have died out for now. Oh well :/

There's always 'Geddon.


Maybe we can get together and mod sometime--I live in west San Jose and all my friends are too busy or don't care to mod.



#328204 BANO #4: Revamped

Posted by T da B on 19 March 2013 - 03:02 PM in Nerf Wars

I have never attended a war, and I am totally down to check one out.



#329033 PETG Sellers

Posted by T da B on 25 April 2013 - 05:16 PM in Off Topic


2044T43


It's PE, not PETG, so it's slightly weaker. However, this fits darts that have a diameter slightly greater than 1/2'' perfectly. It's also dirt cheap at $1.41 for 4 feet of it. In addition, it fits the turret holes in all Airtechs perfectly with no Dremeling or e-taping. Hope this helps!

~T



#329670 Solving the #1 Angel Breech Problem

Posted by T da B on 11 May 2013 - 05:34 PM in Modifications

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Sup lady and gentlemen,

This little orange piece has been the bane of my existence since I first decided to make an Angel Breech for my Longshot. For those of you that don't know, this little orange guy is the attachment point between the bolt sled and breech--the #1 point of failure. Pretty much every brass breech mod that I've read calls for gluing this piece to your brass breech. I have tried many types of epoxy, including the one from the original breech created by ForsakenAngel24, but none of them have had enough strength to withstand my [k26] spring. In typical T da B fashion, I set out to solve this annoyance once and for all. This time, it involves fire!

This mod was actually influenced by the RC car modding community. They use K&S brass tubing to make their own homemade front bumpers, Nerf bars (hehe), etc. I did my research on soldering, brazing, and welding in addition to watching Youtube clips of people joining metals to prepare for this mod. Here is what you guys will be needing to make a bond that can withstand the [k26]:
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Top left: Butane torch that can produce a flame reaching 2500 degrees Fahrenheit! This will be the heat source used to prepare the metals for joining. I went with the Blazer Stingray GB4001 and I'm very pleased with it.

Top center: Stay-Brite Silver Solder that will be used to fill in the spaces between the two metals to be joined. It is composed of a few metals, and the silver allows the joint to be stronger than the actual metals themselves!

Top right: Stay-Clean Liquid Flux--really poisonous stuff. However, it is extremely necessary for soldering since it cleans the surfaces of all oxides and causes the solder to stick.

Bottom: 3/8'' x 3/8'' x 12'' copper rod (89275K461)

You will also need a Dremel with a cylindrical grinding bit, a drill press, and cutting oil for this job.

Write-up:
Cut a 19/32'' length piece off of your square copper rod and grind down one end of it with a cylindrical grinding bit on the Dremel.
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Bust out the drill press and drill a 1/8'' hole 1/8'' from the flat side of the piece. Use cutting oil to lubricate the drill bit and prevent overheating. You should also grind down the top of the nub at this point to fit the bolt sled, but I forgot and did it later.
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Now build yourself some sort of jig to hold everything in place. I also ended up wrapping a rag soaked in water around the end with the plunger tube to prevent melting. Ideally you would do this before gluing on the bottom of the old breech. Make some marks to designate where you want the nub to go and then rough up both surfaces and clean them with rubbing alcohol. Apply flux to the bottom of the copper nub and carefully put it into place. If you ground it down properly, it won't fall off. Now hit it with the flame from all sides for a minute, then touch the solder to the base of the nub and solder should flow into place due to "capillary action."
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Finished product--not the prettiest but it gets the job done! Clean up any solder with the Dremel.
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Here are some glamor shots with the new nub in place:
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So there you have it! The greatest problem with the Angel Breech has finally been solved. The fact is, metal is just too slippery to be held with epoxy, even after roughing the bejeezus out of it. After soldering things into place, my breech will never be breaking in that spot ever again. A silver solder joint is actually stronger than the metals you are joining! Pretty legit, eh? If you guys want to read the full write-up for my Longshot, check it out at my blog. I modified SgNerf's design and managed to squeeze 300 fps out of it!

I hope you guys enjoyed this original write-up.
~T da B



#329674 Solving the #1 Angel Breech Problem

Posted by T da B on 11 May 2013 - 05:55 PM in Modifications

This is a pretty cool mod. Good job. I know of a few other users that did a metal welded nub, though no one actually took the time to do a write up.

However I doubt your claims of 300fps. I'd like to know exactly what you did. I know it is possible using certain setups, none of which would be war usable.


Thanks for the feedback! Check out the link to my blog to see exactly what I did.



#329678 Solving the #1 Angel Breech Problem

Posted by T da B on 11 May 2013 - 06:27 PM in Modifications

It surprises me a bit, but I've encountered some push back and fear when I have suggested soldering in some of the mods I've done. I had a nut soldered to a brass breech in front of a pas. As the pas was primed an attached bar would also open the breech to accept a chambered round from a clip and then close it again as the handle was returned to the forward position. I eventually abandoned it due to clip stability issues, but the breech - and the soldered attachment was solid.

The only worry I see is that the smaller surface area might tend to bend or distort the brass tube as it's placed under load of the [k26]. It's still pretty early on, but after you get a few hundred rounds through it would you mind posting an update about durability? That really does look like a good long term option though. And like you said - that soldered joint is stronger than the materials it's joined to.

Another thought - copper is insanely expensive. Are brass square tubes of that size available? Perhaps a square tube can be soldered in place and then back filled with epoxy or epoxy putty? There might be some loss to durability, but it would be cheaper. A solid steel bar stock might also be more economical.


I see what you're saying about the brass distorting--I highly doubt it will bend, but I'll post an update after warring with the LS.

As far as replacements for copper, I was unable to find anything cheaper on Mcmaster than the rod I used. Initially I wanted to just stick to brass, but K&S only makes hollow brass tubing in the desired size and I didn't want to risk the integrity of the nub. Solid steel would definitely work, but would be much harder to machine.



#329691 Solving the #1 Angel Breech Problem

Posted by T da B on 11 May 2013 - 09:08 PM in Modifications

@koree: Good point--I will make note of this in my write-up. I thought #6 slugs were around 1 gram but maybe not.

@Kronos: Correct. Electrical solder for wires usually has a rosin core, meaning the flux is built into the solder itself. For this application you want the flux to be separate in order to designate the area you want the solder to stick to.



#329791 Solving the #1 Angel Breech Problem

Posted by T da B on 14 May 2013 - 12:07 AM in Modifications

Which isn't soldering.
Look at all the filler metals listed, and then look at solder. It's made of lead/tin, usually. He says he's using silver solder, which usually contains maybe 3% silver.

Solder requires more of a mechanical connection/joint for it to be anything close to trustworthy for putting pressure on.


From the product description of the silver solder I used:
"Five times stronger than ordinary solder with tensile strength of 10,000-25,000 pounds per square inch. Will stretch under high pressure, but not break under constant stress and is vibration-resistant."

For comparison, J.B. Weld has a tensile strength of 3960 psi and polycarbonate has a tensile strength of 8,000 to 16,000 psi.

~T



#329806 Solving the #1 Angel Breech Problem

Posted by T da B on 14 May 2013 - 02:20 PM in Modifications

What's the composition? I don't deny that there are legit hard solders out there, but it's important note exactly what you used if others are to use this as a guide.


Chemical Composition:
Sn - 94%
Ag - 6%

Solidus:
430°F (221°C)

Liquidus:
535°F (279°C)

Recommended Joint Clearance:
0.002"-0.007"

NSF:
51

ASTM:
B32 Grade Sn95

I went the soft solder route, since it was incredibly cheap. This type of solder is mainly used for high temperature, high reliability interconnect applications, and is more than enough for a [k26] as indicated by the tensile strength. Hard solder isn't the only solder that can handle a lot of stress!

~T



#330651 T da B's Firestrike Overhaul

Posted by T da B on 08 June 2013 - 03:55 AM in Modifications

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Sup guys,

It seems like the Firestrike is a pretty popular new blaster nowadays and a semi-worthy replacement for the Nite Finder. A few weeks ago I decided that I wasn't showing pistols enough love, so I decide to take one to the absolute max. This mod is one of my finest to date, and I went through a lot of trouble to get this thing functional. Here are some of its wonderful properties:

  • 1 1/4'' polycarbonate plunger tube
  • Delrin plunger rod
  • 4 1/4'' [k26] at full compression
  • 1 1/8'' rubber grommet seal
  • Custom front spring spacer
  • Custom rear spring blocker
  • Custom trigger catch
Let's get down to business, shall we?

Required Materials:

Required Tools:

  • Scroll saw
  • Dremel
  • Drill or drill press
  • 6-32 tap
  • 3/4'' hole saw
Write-up:
Start by gutting that bitch:
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Undo the gray tabs holding the two halves together to separate the shell:
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Now Dremel off the part the houses the light unit. Do it cleanly, as you will be reusing it!
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Here are the pieces you will need from the light unit:
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Snap the shell halves back together:
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Now to cover the gaps in the shell--chop down the two striped pieces from the light unit like so:
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Then use the PVC/ABS solvent to weld it to both halves of the shell. Notice how I lined up the stripes--yes I am OCD like that sometimes!
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Trim down the other two pieces:
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And attach:
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At this point it would behoove you to cut the plunger tube. 6'' is the length I went with--just long enough to keep the pistol compact:
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Now for one of the most time-consuming parts of the mod--Dremeling the shell down to the fit the plunger tube. Use the plunger tube to constantly test the fit. The part right in front of the round section with the Nerf logo gets Dremeled so thin that I just cleared it out to look like an hourglass on both sides. One tip I can provide is to look straight down the front of the shell and look for a perfect U-shape all the way back to the rear of the shell.
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At this point let's tackle the plunger tube. Cut down a 1/2'' PVC coupler and leave enough room for a 6-32 threaded rod to pass through:
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Use the PVC/ABS solvent to permanently weld the coupler into the end of the plunger tube. As it turns out, the fit is perfect! Use a lot of solvent, as the seal must be airtight. When the solvent cures after a day, drill through the plunger tube with a 7/64'' drill bit and tap it with the 6-32 tap:
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Insert the 6-32 threaded rod through the plunger tube. I used two hex nuts and tightened them together. Then I used a wrench on the rear nut and threaded it through:
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Before the next step, you will need to drill some holes in the shell. The purpose of the holes is the support the force of the plunger rod, as you will see later. Here is where I drilled my holes--they are perfectly in line with the middle of the plunger tube:
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You will now need to fabricate the rear plunger tube supports. They will be made from 1/4'' polycarbonate and follow this schematic:
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Here they are!
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Now take plunger tube and put it into place and close the shell. Make a mark on both sides through the rear hole on both side to designate a spot of importance. Then take your polycarbonate pieces and solvent weld them into place:
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When the solvent cures, put the plunger tube back in the shell and close it up. Make two marks just like before--through the back holes. Drill and tap through the marks you made with the 7/64'' drill bit and 6-32 tap:
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I forgot to take a picture of it, but you should insert a 1/2'' set screw into each of the holes you just made. Make sure that they don't protrude into the plunger tube or the spring will get snagged! The final step for the plunger is to cut yourself some plunger padding and insert it down behind the 1/2'' PVC coupler:
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Next up is the plunger rod. Take your 3/4'' hole saw and cut a circle out of your 1/4'' PVC sheet. This will serve as a spacer that sits inside the rubber grommet:
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Drill a 9/64'' hole right through the middle:
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DO NOT POST! THIS WILL BE A TOTAL OF 2 POSTS!



#330652 T da B's Firestrike Overhaul

Posted by T da B on 08 June 2013 - 04:08 AM in Modifications

Now we can build the plunger head. Here is my setup--from left to right: 1'' 6-32 pan-head screw, #6 washer, 3/4'' fender washer, rubber grommet + PVC disc, 1'' fender washer (wrong in picture).
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Now grab your 3/8'' Delrin and cut a 6'' length of it. Mark the end for drilling:
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Drill and tap the business end:
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Cut your catch notch 4 1/4'' from the back of the plunger rod:
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Drill a 9/64'' hold through the end of the plunger rod for the priming handle:
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Use your threaded rod, 3/4'' nylon spacers, and acorn nuts to build the priming handle:
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The final step for the plunger rod is to make the front spring spacer. Its purpose is to prevent the front of the spring from hooking onto the plunger head and wrecking the seal. My solution is simple and elegant--what I always strive for! Lightly sand down the corners of the plunger rod in front of the catch notch:
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Take your 1/2'' ID, 5/8'' OD polycarbonate (or CPVC) and cut out a 3/4'' segment. Drill and tap through the rear of the segment and the corresponding spot on the plunger rod:
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Here you can see it in action, secured with a 1/4'' set screw:
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Now is when this mod gets extremely hairy. How hairy? I'm talking Bigfoot and Chewbacca having a kid and that kid fucking Osama bin Laden. Yeah, prepare for some pain. The [k26] will wreak havoc on the rear section of the blaster of there isn't something blocking it. I decided to design my own rear spring stop out of 1/8'' polycarbonate--check it out!
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This piece does not need to be glued into place and slides onto the plunger rod right in front of the trigger catch. Here is my fabrication process:
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You will need to round the edges--look closely at the shell to see how the piece needs to be shaped. To make the square hole, I used a thin drill bit for my Dremel. Here you can see how the spring stop snaps into place:
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The trigger catch will also need to be fabricated, since the stock catch is too tall to work with an aftermarket plunger rod. Here are the schematics for this one:
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Like the spring stop, I first scrolled out the outline then later drilled a 3/8'' hole and expanded it with the Dremel:
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Drill and tap the top center of the catch and insert a 3/8'' set screw:
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Comparison with stock catch:
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Whew! Now that that thing is done, all that is left is to mod the trigger. Cut a 5/16'' x 3/8'' piece of 1/4'' PVC and glue it to the trigger like so:
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You may need to Dremel the trigger and/or the bottom of the catch to get the blaster to catch and fire, so test test test! Once you're satisfied with the fit, it's finally time to assemble the full plunger rod! Slide on the catch, spring stop, spring spacer, 4 1/4'' [k26] spring, and plunger head:
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Time to put everything back into place, including the old LED! Yes, I found a spot above the old light housing that the LED can chill in to illuminate the plunger tube. I forgot to include the secondary trigger in the picture.
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Close up the shell and screw on your 4 Keps nuts to secure the plunger tube to the shell. Make sure they aren't on too tight. Isn't she a thing of beauty?
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Here a shot of the illumination:
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Full compression of the [k26] spring after priming:
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Final Thoughts:
It took a long time, but the end result was worth the pain. This little pistol is now truly "Elite" in every sense of the word--I may just have to make it its own personal slide breech. It shoots extremely hard--harder than some of my rifles, in fact! Have a look:
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This was accomplished with my new 6'' slide breech and shitty beige Hot Rod darts--something I'm very perplexed about. To be honest, I find this velocity to be a little low--the reason I say this is because I don't think the rubber grommet is an optimal plunger head in any respect. It seals very well, but requires an ass-ton of lube and creates a lot of friction with the plunger tube walls. In addition, it falls victim to vacuum loading problems and takes up quite a bit of real estate. In the future, I will no longer use this type of plunger head and I may even swap mine out for a tradition washer sandwich, which is superior in every way.

In any case, I'm very happy with the outcome of this mod, and my segue into homemades continues. This is the first time I've ever worked with Delrin, and I can safely say that I'm never going back to Nylon. Stay tuned for more goodies :)

Hope you guys enjoyed this write-up!
~T

P.S. Nylon sucks balls.



#330669 T da B's Firestrike Overhaul

Posted by T da B on 08 June 2013 - 02:35 PM in Modifications

Not bad. Rubber grommets are a pretty good seal, though they're a pain to get right. That's why mostly no one uses them. It looks like yours is hitting the wall with a whole side of the grommet. you would have been better off using a skirt seal.


Yeah, my grommet seemed to have a perfect fit before I lubed it up, then it expanded a bit after. I have read of this happening to others as well for certain types of rubber. Skirts are nice, but they are very tall/expensive. For this compact setup I will probably stick with the tried and true washer sandwich and rebuild my plunger rod for a longer spring setup.



#331359 Modification and Paintjob Pictures

Posted by T da B on 27 June 2013 - 11:44 PM in Modifications

I recently hit 10,000 views on my blog (a lot for me), so I decided to give away something special. I figured that it would be the perfect opportunity to try out my first paint job as well. Hell, if it ended up looking ugly at least it was getting sent off! I took a Tech Target and went a little crazy...

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I used a combination of Dupli-color vinyl dye and Citadel Layer hand paints for the paint job. Internals are all homemade, aside from the trigger and trigger catch. Read the full write-up at my blog.
~T



#331631 Replacement bbb spring?

Posted by T da B on 06 July 2013 - 02:54 PM in Modifications

The [k26] was almost made for the BBB! You will have to do couple of mods to get things reliable, however:

  • Shave down the sides of the plunger rod
  • Put in a spring stop at the rear of the plunger tube. I shaved down a 9/16'' washer, like many have done before me
Optionally, you might want to think about replacing your plunger head, or at minimum reinforcing the plastic washer under the plunger head. A [k26] can really do some damage without proper reinforcement!

Hope this helps,
~T



#332443 Alternative angel breech reinforcment

Posted by T da B on 29 July 2013 - 04:18 AM in Modifications

Very nice torch-less solution! I didn't think it was possible to achieve long-term structural integrity with the OG nub, but your solution looks solid. I would suspect that the holes must be sized perfectly to prevent the steel rod from rocking back and forth with each prime and possibly cracking the hole-plugging glue and ruining the seal.

Has performance been affected at all with the addition of the rod?



#333062 Stampede voltage upgrade issue

Posted by T da B on 15 August 2013 - 02:34 AM in Modifications

When you add those springs, you end up putting a tremendous amount of friction on the plunger tube from the white piece. I suspect what's happening in your situation is that the friction from the white piece is slowing down the plunger tube from retracting fast enough, failing to reset the firing cycle in time. Does the plunger retract at all after the first shot? If not, the plunger is not returning fast enough. Lube always helps as well.

Other things to check:
1. Trigger catch activator spring
2. Make sure black return spring isn't caught somewhere
3. Make sure the breech isn't getting stuck in the receiver (caused my brass breeched Stampede to bump fire)
4. If you can hear the gears spinning, but the plunger isn't being pulled then your gearbox may be F-ed in the A
5. Make sure the trigger catch is in the right way



#334144 K9 Kannon

Posted by T da B on 19 September 2013 - 02:07 PM in Modifications

Awesome! Reminds me of a modded golf ball shooter I had to dodge at my last war. It warms the cockles of my heart seeing random blasters made into beasts. Seems like it would be pretty straightforward to make it pump-action as well, depending on the prime. Is it accurate?



#334154 K9 Kannon

Posted by T da B on 19 September 2013 - 07:07 PM in Modifications

Yeah they were the soft foam rubber practice balls, but they still probably outweigh the typical 1g Stefan. I didn't get a close look at the golf ball launcher, but it was some sort of air tank blaster that literally made a boom sound when it fired! Velocities seemed pretty damn high, especially for an indoor war, so maybe it should have been banned just due to the kinetic energy.

One more idea: you might be able to "hopper" it with just a tube that gravity feeds into the front chamber!



#334235 Longshot Bolt to Plunger Tube seal

Posted by T da B on 23 September 2013 - 07:38 PM in Modifications

If you get rid of the black piece that you glue to the back of the breech, you can remove the breech from the plunger without destroying the attachment nub. Since my nub is brazed on by a blowtorch, I have no choice but this route. I filled the dead space with padding, and the brass is plenty strong enough to prime the plunger rod by itself. I'm literally tackling the same sealing problem right now, since my brass/plastic (breech/PT) seal has degraded over time, and my perfect seal is gone. I will be sanding out the hole at the front of the plunger tube and gluing in a piece of 5/8'' brass to slide over my 19/32'' breech.

Hope this helps!
~T