but then i couldnt get the springs back.... the retaliator costs 45 freakin bucks in korea alone.... also it seems pretty stable. although the smart AR is getting a bit glitchy. sometimes it works some times not. but the increase in accuracy and sheer power is probably worth it.

<p>

K&S 19/32" is a really sloppy fit, since its ID is .570"
K&S 9/16" is a loose fit with an ID of .5345" which is way too loose for springers unless it's part of a hybrid/telescope barrel.
K&S 17/32" has an ID of .503" and should fit stock darts (name brand or not) really well. It did the last time I used it.
 
And no, none of them make a "perfect" seal because you're interfacing brass with brass. Even when you screw brass fittings together tightly you have to dope, tape, or gasket the joint to get it to seal pressure. They wouldn't be able to slide inside of each other if they were toleranced really closely either. You're going to sacrifice a tiny fraction of your range potential in favor of having the convenient of a brass breech.
 
I've generally not been particularly happy using brass for barrels because the downsides are

• Really difficult to glue to anything to it. Usually best to just nest it inside of something else using electrical tape instead, which also helps to mitigate the next issue...
• Easily damaged because the walls are so thin.
• Tarnishes, lymes, and gets ugly really quickly.
• An extremely smooth interior surface is great for air-powered blasters, but not particularly preferable with springers.

Anyone in indiana going to Indianerfolis? I know that I am

(See the original Indianerfolis post by Nerfrocketeer)

I merged this into the indianerfolis thread.  There's no need to start a new thread just to ask who is going.

Hey man! You definitely want to use CPVC for your BBB if it's available. CPVC couplers will fit pretty well on a cut down barrel. Also make sure you put another spring in your BBB. 

 
No. 9/16 brass will.
 
Honestly, most, if not all of your questions can be answered with this magical secret that few know about.

 

 

No need to telescope with elites. Just remember to cover the brass with something so that it won't cut anyone.

 

You might want to consider making a brass breech for a 3b, though. It's a efficient and will increase ROF a ton.

Will any CPVC or PVC fit directly over 17/32 brass?

Greatly depends on what you want to shoot. For example, many different kinds of foam have a nice push/twist fit in CPVC, but if you ahve really, really fat stefans, you might want to consider PETG or brass. Elite darts have a very tight fit in CPVC, and can be hard to have a high ROF with a single barrel. It is also worth noting that 1/2 PEX can be you "alternate" CPVC if it is unavailable.
 
1/2 PVC is basically too large for any darts besides the "mega stefans". For a 3B firing elites, 17/32 brass is the way to go.

I honestly have no fucking clue what you're doing, go trouble shoot yourself a bit. Did you put both the [k26] and stock spring in? I think your spring rest CPVC ring sucks and probably isn't compressing the [k26] at all.

Hey so I was wondering if anyone has tried to put LEDs inside a sonic fire barrel break? Lots of moving parts I was wondering if it is even possible?

Did you troubleshoot you blaster yourself?
I really don't like this spoon feeding but, did you check everything in your blaster. O ring in, no cracks and PT is good, than it works. It sounds like you fucked something up because [k26] is about double the prime weight of the stock spring. 

 

>sigh
first, you usually test. If it doesn't fit than cut it down, but just because a spring isn't the same length uncompressed, doesn't mean it won't be the same length compressed. It fits 13 coils, full compression in the sentinel. 

I put a [k26] to 13 coils in there and im getting the same ranges I was with the stock spring :/

You cut down to 13 coils and it fits. the ring is a small sliver, it will be near full compression.

A [k26] to 13 coils isn't even close to the length of the original spring. is this alright?

 
I think he's asking about NPT.

There's a literal fucking guide I poured 8+ hours on and I feel insulted that you didn't read through it, because this is shown in the picture. I don't get what's unclear,  /endsalt

I have no idea what your interpretation is, but there are pictures that show what it should look like HERE under spring replacement

This diagram should explain it. I threw the 1/4" long piece away. The ridge is resting against the orange piece and prevents the coupler from sliding backwards. 

 sentinel spring rest diagram.png

Here is what I interpreted from your diagram. Let me know if I got this right or not. http://imgur.com/SZgQeLj

Everyone is dancing around the thing of substance here:  With a drain blaster, it doesn't matter who tight the barrel is, it will eject (at minimum) a portion of the dart  no matter what.  Probably the whole thing, even in something tight like 1/2" Flowguard Gold CPVC.  I recommend PETG for micro darts, which is partially why I offer it for sale to the community.
 
However.
Nobody want to play against a singled drain blaster shooting micro darts.  It isn't safe.  Almost all organized wars (in the developed world) require air blasters of Titan volume or greater to shoot larger ammo like rockets, balls, Demo missiles, etc. or have multiple micro dart barrels.
 
As for connecting to the drain blaster, my favorite method is to use a 1/2" NPT pipe die and cut threads on to the little outlet ball.  Then thread on a 1/2" NPT to slip pipe coupler.  I prefer to use pipe adhesive to weld the coupler on, but that is usually because I have no intention of removing it later.

No I slipped it over the stock orange piece with the cut end facing towards the front of the blaster.

Yes, it's a new spring rest. I actually used a 1/2" PVC coupler with about 1/4 of it cut off (I used a band saw but there are many ways to do this) and it fits in perfectly. A [k26] won't fit without reaming the coupler out, though, but that's done easily enough with a dremel. I ended up using some random spring that fit and seemed pretty strong.

1/2 CPVC is sometimes a good fit for darts. Bring a dart with you to check. 1/2 CPVC sometimes fits into 1/2-PVC Schedule 40; otherwise you want 200 psi 'thinwall' 1/2 PVC. 1/2 PVC doesn't reliably fit into anything other than a 1/2 PVC coupler, I think 3/4 PVC is close though you'll need to ream it out.
 
I've got no idea how that relates to the drain blaster though. Your best bet is finding a barrel that works with your darts (push/twist fit in the CPVC) and then a way to attach that to the drain blaster's output port, ideally by bringing that part to the store to check the fit.
 
Before you ask, no, you cannot buy Australian standard electrical conduit in the US. At least, not cost-effectively (you could probably import some, if you wanted to spend loads of cash). We have different standards and use a different measurement system.

From what I know from reading lots of posts on here 17/32 is the OD of a elite dart, most people utilize 1/2 inch ID pvc or cpvc for barrels if I'm correct.

The barrel materials guide post in this section will have all the info for you.

I read in the barrel materials guide and it said for air blasters it should be lose fitting around the dart. But what I am unsure about is how lose it needs to be

Hello!

I am in the process of making a homemade-ish type of gun out of a drain blaster! For a quick reference to what i'm talking about, please visit this video! -> 

In the video, he uses 16mm, 20mm, and 25mm piping (Australian standard electrical conduit , according to him). I was wondering if anyone knows what type of pipe this is, where i can find it, and how tight my darts should be in the inner barrel (elite darts in the 16mm barrel), as I live in the US and am unsure what measurements (1/4 in, 3/8 in, etc) to use

You only put the [k26] in, no need for the stock spring after that. You should do the reinforcement with that mod too, 
The ring gives a place for the spring to rest and compress because there is little room for a spring to sit and compress otherwise.

yeaa, Sentinel hits 120ish with USCs and just AR banged out, 
You don't need much and it's great. I used it and it's HVZ legal, works fine for superstock

You don't really need a brass breech IMO, and follow my amazing guide (8ish+ hours put into that) like Blitz linked,


12998416_10150698643564980_7471767654097071132_o.jpg

 

 

I have a couple of questions to ask you about your spring replacement. First of all, how did you make your cpvc ring out of a cpvc coupler? Did you just use a pipe cutter to cut it? And what is its dimensions? Second of all, did you put in a non cut-down [k26] in there ontop of the stock spring? And if it is cut down, how many coils?

Sorry for the large amount of questions