You can you bungee cords or rubber bands, although I have never done it because if you don't put it on right, it can cause a lot of stress to the charging rod, bending or breaking it. So I've heard atleast.

First of all, I agree. Second, you really don't need to change the spring; the spring is not "too weak" just use bands or mini bungees. I can get 100-130'+ with a good dart. That's with no spring replacement. And yes, it causes even mroe stress when just cocking the gun, and even more when firing.

But yes, if it cocks with the Crossbow spring, the spring is too long and cannot compress enough to have the catch along the plunger rod connect with the catch.

I really hate my crossbow. I'm in need of help.

Wow. Blasphemy.

Hehe, that's what I meant. Will fix.

Yes, I would also recommend shortening your barrel, and nest 1.5" of brass (one size smaller) in it. You don't want you darts to be terribly tight in your barrel (not the nested piece), that will only decrease range.

I get what you're saying now.

And if you were to actually use this is a war, it might have a use. Itf you could get colored powder, and you were using a high powered gun, when the dart hit it would leave a small mark. This would cut down the amount of argueing as to who got hit by whom, when why and where.

People might get annoyed by the powder, but as you said, it isn't all that practical.

First, I'm sorry for making a "which gun should I get"-ish thread. It is not infact one though, as I simply want to know which one to mod. I am looking to know which one gets better ranges, and each pros and cons.

I first was inclined to the PC, because I like the design of it. But then I heard about it's handle which makes some people "uncomfortable", if I remember correctly. I am going to put a stock on it (whichever it is), so I guess the feel and shell of the Magstrike isn't so bad.

I also want it to go far, so please say ranges of both.

When choosing in the poll, please post why you chose what you chose; it will make it easier for me to choose which one to mod. Also, keep in mind I do not have a PC, and I do have 2 magstrikes, and 4 clips.

Thanks,

-OfAll'

PS: I am also looking to integrate something onto this, possibly. Probably a homemade, maybe the small SNAP Carbon posted.

I really hate my crossbow. I'm in need of help. I honestly have no clue what's going on with it. The dart barely hits 40. It maybe that the barrel is too long or too tight on my darts I have no idea. I fixed the seal. I also just re-inforced the plunger and the wall(the one where the spring hits, i forget its name). But if anyone has any suggestions they would be greatly appreciated.

~l337

Now that, sir, is blasphemy. What does it say on page 307 inbetween lines 45 and 46 in fine print of the "Thou shall love the Crossbow" act? "You never use the words 'hate' and 'Crossbow,' when reffering the words to one another."

[/off topic]

Sorry, but I had to do that.

First off, how long is your barrel? If it is brass, how much have you nested in it, if any? Also, have you Coupler modded it, so that the barrel is directly in front of the air output? If you didn't, I'd say that's the problem. When I took the tubing off, there was a spring in it, that has got ot be one helluva air restrictor right there.

Second, do your darts create a seal int he barrel? Some of my CPVC darts, when fired out of my nested 9/16" brass barrell, barely go 15 feet in my 80ft+ NF. If it does not get a good seal with the barrel, that would definitely be a problem.

What did you reinforce the plunger rod with? Was it heavy? If it was heavy, did you do it to both sides? How far along the rod did you go?

I would recommend not tampering witht he seal between the plunger head and the plunger chamber, I know there like 3mm between the head and the tube, but I didn't do that with mine, and it got 160' FLAT (okay, with dart skip, and please don't call me a lier. There may have been a tailwind, there might have been a mismeasurement, there might ahve been an angel carrying it across my street... But I know it went 160' TWICE, yes including dart skip). The perfect seal with whatever tape you used (I'm assuming you used E-tape) will probably create more friction to slow down the plunger rod/head than the air being pushed forward because of the seal.

Lastly, what type of weight do you use? I use 3/0 fishing weights, usually the "water gremlin" ones, not the gremlin green, though. Those things weight so little. The water gremlin I have found are slightly heavier than other ones, so they are great for megas and high powered micro guns.

That's all I can think of, so after those questions are answered, you, me, or someone may be able to find out the problem.

Hope this helps.

Okay, I'm not too sure what you mean. Do you mean you shoot seven blasts of smoke, and no dart, before you ahve to "refill" the dart with baby powder? If so, I see no reason to be puffing during a war to make people think you are smoking. It would be like telling everyone where you are, too.

Clarify if I'm wrong, but that's what I deciphered (I'm sure I'm probably wrong, because I don't think someone would want to puff about like that, unless they want to make it MilSim and pretend to be using "smoke grenades").

-OfAll'

I only have one wordt o say. It begins with "b" and ends with "eastly". That's very cool. If that sonic bazooka truly goes 200+ft that would be insanely dangerous on the field. After you do official testing, could you tell us all?

Although you say it's not pretty, it's sure as hell alot more pretty than, well, all of my mods. I'm getting into "cleaner" mods and PJ's now. I used to only go for funcitonality. Not that there's anything wrong with that, but I digress.

Again, that is VERY sick.

C'mon learn to use the quote button.

I think the discription given by the ask a ninja ninja still stands.

The kid singing at the beginning had braces.

Hah really? I didn't notice... Seriously, that's screwed.

Did anyone stay for the bit after the credits?

I love it when Jack is sailing of on the dingy at the end and looks at his compass, and it points to his rum. Then he pops the cork out, and it points to the black pearl, or the fountain of youth, it was a little unclear to me.

But I agree, they definitely set themselves up for a fourth.

Aside from being worded in a rushed and confusing manner, decent mod.

What is the extra couple inches of marker for?

Barrel taps?

Hah.

I just saw it today, just wanted to know what other people thought of it.

I loved the first, the second, and third. They just got better. It's so much movie to remember though. I can't remember any funny/witty expressions; I guess I'll just have to see it again.

So, just post your thoughts!

-OfAll'

PS: I guess we'll have to call it "Will Turner's Locker" from now on .

Yeah, the at2k internals pack quite a punch. It dents a cardboard shipping box by a considerable amount. It takes about 2 pumps to be fully primed.

Yes, I used one of my industrial NF springs. The ones I used in my 100' nitefinder. Also, do you have a link to your gun? I don't believe I've seen it and would like to. Thanks!

That's cool. I just bought my first 3 at2k's, and I'm surprised (by your picture) how big their pumping chamber is. But that's a good thing.

Here is the Nasa-3k.

I think I'm going to make a clip for mine, even if it is a bit big... But I'm thinking about using an 8" CPVC barrel in the NF, for shotgunning.

Thanks!

Does anyone know how nanos should be weighted? I'm assuming (sp) that they should ahve 1 bb for low power, and 2 bb's for high power. Any higher and it seems (to me) that there wouldn't be enough foam to counteract the weight of the weight... or am I getting something wrong here...

Cool, glad to hear it. Thanks, also. I've just been taking pot-shots as of now and haven't done any real measuring. The 2k internals seem to go about as far as that first longshot, about 100 feet. The nitefinder is very close behind. An average of the two is probably about 90-95 feet. Not bad for a shotgun...

VERY cool.

More questions,

Does the AT2K fire with alot of velocity? My LS also goes about 100', but it seems less accurate and not as fast as airguns.

Did you replace the spring in the NF? It looks like one of the "Dart Tag" versions, so probably doesn't have a hefty spring in it (I've never opened one up, so correct me if I'm wrong).

Again, great job. You did what I envisioned when I did my Nasa-3k (except it turned out a little different... and fuglier). I still can't get over how cleanly awsome that looks.

Very nice.

Kind-of what I did, only I used an AT3K, and it looks pretty damn ugly (mine). It functions though, so that's a plus. I really need to start working on making my easier to function, and make them look better...

Back on topic, I would also to know some ranges. And how exactly does the clip work? is it just one solid piece of CPVC going through the two 3-way coupler?

Good to see you are doing some more mods now. Your LS mod really got me started on modding.

Props!

Well, when I go to the west coast to visit family, I LOVE In'n'Out. Best burger place EVER.

Here on the east coast I'd have to say D'angelos. I go there with my dad every wednesday (yeah, not so great for you but better than McD's or BK.).

Chick Fil A, McDonalds, Taco Bell, Jack in a Crack(Jack in the Box), Wendys
P.S. I'm not a fat lil terd either, i weigh 94 lbs. respectively.

I've only been there once (Cali) and the food/drink portioning is huge! I asked for a medium drink and they gave me the equivilent to a large.

Piano (bores the hell out of me most of the time...).

I agree with what everyone has said: Use 17/32" brass tubing. If you can't find it anywhere around you (I'm SO lucky that my hardware store right in town carries brass), then you can either find some online (some people have already said some place, listen to them (e.g. McMaster)). CaptainSlug is selling multiple sizes of brass here, one of them being 17/32". The thread is pretty old, but he hasn't done anything to indicate that they aren't still up for sale.

I don't think anyone has said this (just read the thread once through), but if you are only using stock darts then only use 3 inched of brass; this will ensure that the dart is as close to the air output as it possibly can be. You might also want to nest some smaller brass inside the brass barrel, but I have never modded a gun specifically so that it can fire stock darts, so maybe you should ask someone else about that (if no one else knows/answers, I would say 1/2"-1", but no more).

Hope this helps,

-OfAll'

Yes the black ones suck. But most stock darts do period.

I find that most Dart Tag Darts have very high quality foam, along with some steamline darts. I only have a few black whistlers, and the older ones do suck. The three I got with my knew TTG, though, full and stiff (it's... hard to explain).

You got it CS, I tried making a cdts out of a black one and the glue melted all the way through.

But they feel soft and not as strong as the DTD's. So that might explain why they melt so easily.

Nevertheless, usually my stefans perform better than my CDTD's, might be because of how they fit in the barrel, or how bad I am at making them.

Awsome mod, Forsaken_Angel.

I also love the PaintJob on it.

But is there a way of making it fire without the key chain?

I agree that I would like to cock it with something other than a keyring. My suggestion (to you, or the person who buys this), if it suits you, is to take the plunger rod of an NF and glue it onto the end of the SneakShot's plunger rod. To me that would look a bit cleaner (although it currently looks very sexy).

It would require six bucks (or less, if you have a trashed NF lying around), and some dremeling. I'm not sure if the NF's plunger rod would be long enough to come out of the shell, but judging from the size of the at3k valve, it looks like it should.

PM'd you by the way.

Congratulations, both of you. Before I started posting I saw many of your modifications. A month or so back I wouldn't even hope to understand how you came up with such innovative and kickass mods. But those spurrer me on, and I think I can finally say that I am decent at modding.

My ultimate dream for that thread is to have a modification for everything that projects foam ballisitics by Nerf.

That would be a grand day for Nerf. The moment I saw that, I thought of trying to help make it happen. Maybe I could mod my friends at1k to start it off...

Edit: Heh, that's easier said than done. After a quick glance at Orange's Nerf Site's complete nerf gun list, it looks like NH doesn't even have half of them modded... Well, everything has to start somewhere, right?

I definitely recommend using a pipe cutter. I have found that, to make it from not crimping as much, to twist the brass around rather fast (not viciously fast) and then only tighten it a very tiny bit. Keep doing it until it comes off. I haven't cut brass alot recently, but I found that out when I last cut some brass for... hell I forget. That might have been just a weird occurance, so you'll probably find out the best combination of speed and twists.

If the ends are crimped in a little, I use the triangle-thing that pops out of the back on the cutters (don't know if they're on all of them) to flare the ends out.

If you are glueing the brass straight onto an air output, or something non-coupler'd, I would keep the end crimped, as it doesn't really matter if it is flared. Also, flaring tends to make the end uneven, because of the inability for anyone to twist and flare evenly (without he help of a powertool or something).

I always flare the ends of my (brass) barrels, to ensure a smooth exit. An exception is if it is the beggining/end of the tubing (where the brass tubing was cut before you bought it), and even then I sometimes flare the end out to make it even smoother.

I also found something interested on how to make it easier to nest brass inside of brass.

I usually use PVC couplers, nested with a CPVC coupler, on my guns. For my brass barrel in these couplers, I always have smaller brass nested inside for springers. I found that if you flare both ends of the long brass barrel and then flare one end of the nested piece makes it very easy to make sure that the nested piece doesn't go down the barrel.

And to make to that the nested piece doesn't fall out the end of the barrel, I flare both ends, and sand one end with a sanding disk (taking off alot of the flaring). I only do it enough so that it is tricky to get it into the non-nested barrel, but can still be pushed in with a little effort. That makes it so that it can't slide freely out the end.

I'm sorry if this is already known by alot of people, but I thought that maybe not everyone knew about it, so I just wanted to help someone if I can.

Hope this helps!

-OfAll'

Very nice Gengar.

I love how you make shell-holders.

Have you tried using it in a war? I'd love to know how it goes.

Thank you for the compliments, everyone.

NerfFreak, I'll try to get ranges soon, but I can't promise any until the weekend or possibly later.

AssasinNF, I just took the E-tape off, and will take the tape off the pumping chamber tommorow, and glue the coupler on (or should I goop it on?).

The only reason I put the tape on the handle in the first place is because I kind of hacked up the handle. You can see the airtank for the SSPB coming out the back, and at some places I dremeled right through plastic . Do you still recommend me taking it off?

And about the painting...

I've never done a PJ before, but I guess I could try. I just have to be careful not to get any paint in the coupler or the SSPB barrel...


I just noticed that my CPVC barrel was pointing down. But, oddly, when I was test firing it inside (leaving indents in my door) it seemed to fire straight... Hm... I think I know what's happening, but I'll check tommorow and post it.

EDIT: Added some better pics of the gun, I hope you all like them! (Now you'll actually be able to see the gun...)

This is my first post on NerfHaven, and I have been saving it for something special. I have numerous mods planned, but most of them will have to wait until the summer.

Getting to the point, here’s the write-up.

First get ahold of an SSPB, NF and an at3k.

To make it neat and organized, you should mod your gun in steps. First the NF part, then the SSPB, then the AT3k.

NF

I just coupler’d it, but you could do anything you want.

SSPB

Take the shell off of the SSPB, take the rubber/plastic disc off the trigger, and start dremeling out the handle part of the NF shell, and keep doing so on both sides until it fits. Cut a slot in between where your third and fourth finger would be on the handle; this is where the trigger for the SSPB will be. You will have to have some of the airtank of the SSPB coming out the back of the handle


Here's how mine turned out:



And this is what it looked like put back together:



AT3k

Rip the valve and pump out of the AT3k. Cut both tubes (clear and orange) off the “goo-gauge”, and cut off the clear tubing. Then goop/epoxy the end of the orange tubing onto the valve.

Then you will have to dremel out a place for the AT3k pump. I put it inside the gun where the ammo holders used to be, but you could probably glue it on the left side of the gun.

Glue the pump there, and then glue the AT3k airtank onto the front of where the “laser” used to be. Since both surfaces (should) be flat, your AT3k should fire straight. After that, I enlarged the trigger guard, so that I could create a trigger for the AT3k. I also coupler’d it, but again, you could do whatever barrel mod you want.

After dremeling, I glued a keyring onto the firing pin.

I’m sorry for going so long without pics, so here is the finished product:



Well, not quite…

I still had some things to do. Firstly, the pump handle was too small, and the handle was pretty fugly. I covered the handle in E-tape, and did this to the pump handle:



First I cut off the white end piece of the pump handle, and then glued a section of a ½” PVC coupler onto the end of the pumping chamber. I duct-taped it there, and covered the duct tape with E-tape. I glued a section of ½” PVC onto the end of the pump handle, and put a coupler on there. It is larger now, and very easy to pump, even with a PVC barrel, there is enough space to grip it.

So now, you have one beast of a gun, with three shots before reloading.

Here is the (truly) finished Night Attack Secret Air 3000 (NASA-3k)!



A close-up on the SSPB trigger:



It’s lacking a name, so suggestions are welcome.


I’ll make a removable nano-barrel for the SSPB soon, so it can shoot farther.

A few problems still remain, one being that it is hard to load and unload the barrel from the NF, so I just glued a small tube of brass to the side of it, so I can yank it out. And since I added a tek-six spring in, sometimes it does not compress right, and does not allow you to cock the gun. I’m going to try to just get a first-edition NF spring for it, if you have one, PM me.

Questions, Comments?

Enjoy!

PS What are your thoughts on the E-tape? I personally like it on the handle, but don’t know about the pumping chamber and airtank… I’d like to know all your opinions, thanks!

EDIT: I'm really sorry that all the pictures are blurry... I don't own a tri-pod, but will buy on soon, I'll try to get some non-blurry pictures up later.