Suggestions? Anything I did wrong with my mod in the first place?

I have part of a Tampon Applicator (no Crayola markers were handy, so I got inventive)

I have part of a Tampon Applicator

I have part of a Tampon

Tampon

Unless the foam of your darts makes a tight fit in the PVC, you won't get great ranges. You want a snug fit for spring guns, so the tip must remain out of the barrel, unless the dart is a streamline. A pic of your setup (without the tampon) would be of help.

I've been looking to go to a war now that I've revamped all my guns, but that's the day of the OSU/USC game, so I can't make it, sorry.

Don't return it, who the hell are you guys kidding? Assuming the blaster worked when you got it (if it didn't, why even bother with it, return it STOCK), and didn't work after you had tried to mod it, you fucked it up. No one (the store, hasbro, whatever) should have to pay for your mistakes but you. What if they did put it back on the shelves, the next kid is screwed over?

It's just being considerate and having some common sense. You ruined it, so deal with it. Just know what you're doing before you try to mod your next gun.



At below:

Why would they put it back on shelves? When people return things, it's usually because it's defective. Also, I think the seal to the clip is fucked up, I'll just slap a thin ring of foam on and it should be good.

Haste, mistakes, whatever, even if it's not re-shelved, someone has to pay for it. In this case, it's only defective because you messed it up. Try to fix it, but don't return it.

I had already tried this. Mine seems to have been more successful than yours, but still finicky at best. Best of luck if you choose to continue exploring this route.

What approach did you take?

On a new one, taking a knife and funneling out the sides of the 1/4" tube seems to be working, it's just a lot of fine tuning before it will be really ready. The seal is highly dependent on the straightness of the cut, if it's crooked, the bb cannot close off the tube as well and it will leak out.

I'll keep trying the funneling approach with the bb before I explore different ball blockers or maybe even another system.

Edit: Shit, I forgot to test it the other way and it doesn't quite work. More at bottom

After seeing Split’s Hornet Shuttle Valve Mod, I wanted to make one, it's an amazing mod, however, at $10 apiece from McMaster, the shuttle valves are too pricey for me. I was looking around trying to find them cheaper when I ran across the picture here http://www.kepner.co...ttle_valves.htm and figured they could be made. The goop on mine are still drying, but they should be in a hornet tomorrow. I blew into them and it worked perfectly, but after the goop is finished drying, I’ll assemble it and see the real results.

Materials needed:
4” of 1/4” OD, .170” ID vinyl tubing
7/8” of 3/8” OD, 1/4” ID vinyl tubing
3/8” of 1/2” OD, 3/8” ID vinyl tubing (optional, but recommended)
BBs. (1 per)
1/4” dowel rod (5 or so inches)
Goop

Tools needed:
Your preferred cutters for tubing (X-acto knife, razor blade, etc)
Drill Press (preferred) or hand drill
1/4” drill bit

Start with your materials


Cut your 1/4” OD tubing into 3 parts, two will be the ends of the shuttle valve; the third will be the air exit. I cut all mine to about the same length.
Take the 1/2” OD tubing and slide it over the 3/8” OD tubing and center it. Like this:

This is slightly difficult, I took my vice, adjusted it to an opening of 3/8”- 1/2” and set the piece on it, then pushed the inner tube down while the edges of the vice held the outer tube from moving.

Once you have that centered, congratulations, you’ve finished the hardest part.

Now, slide in your 1/4” dowel to the two tube piece you just made.

The dowel will hold the tube so it does not collapse on itself while you drill. Drill a 1/4” hole (centered in the middle of the 1/2” tubing) through the 1/2" tube and through the 3/8” tube until you hit the dowel. Don’t drill through the other side of the tubing. Slide out the dowel. It should now look like this:


Now, put in one end of the input tubes, they form the top of the T shape. Put in the piece on the side and the bb. Make sure the side tubing does not protrude into the center, that will prevent the bb from moving and your valve won’t work.



And finally, add the other side.


Now, you can check it by blowing in one of the top parts of the T shape. The air should come out the side tube, but not the other end. If it all works, goop it up!




And you’re finished and ready to make a backpressure gun kick ass.
Hopefully it works, it seems to now, but we’ll find out when I put it in the hornet. Any tips/suggestions?

Edited to change spacing.

Edit2: Shit, I tested again by blowing in one output with the bottom plugged, it doesn't seal entirely with the other side, some air still leaks out. I'm working on fixing it by various means (changing from BB to 1/4" slingshot weight to other ball bearings) and funneling the edges of the tubes, anyone have any tips?

Shit. I forgot to check that it was air tight after pressure had been achieved. As of now, air can flow just fine, but when the tank is full, air will leak out of one side because it doesn't seal perfectly. I'm working on new fixes as outlined at the bottom of the first post. Any ideas?

Sorry for not checking it entirely, I forgot it had to hold the air after it was pressurized.

Since you've abandoned the turret (the seal isn't too difficult on the Lanard Shot Gun) and have a coupler on it, I would just go for an RSCB instead. They are generally less finicky than inline clips in terms of shooting multiple shots.

However, one thing you should improve/fix is the transition from PVC to CPVC, hammering a piece in will warp the PVC a little bit, as well as mess with your CPVC, changing that could just help your problem. You could drill out an inch or two of PVC with a 5/8" drill bit, then the CPVC will fit in easier, or just use a coupler and place the CPVC into a smaller walled 1/2" PVC, wrapping it with electrical tape to make it snug.

Can't the hot water deform the plunger tube?

Probably not, I don't think most plastics melt that low, but don't boil it for a super long amount of time then squeeze it with pliers or anything. So long as you're fairly gentle with it while it's hot, you should be ok.

But wait, wouldn't putting sovelet (sp.?) weld into hot water make Brain cell killing fumes?

No.


A good method, I'd skip the cup though and just hold the piece in the pot rather than fuss with a plastic cup, less chance of spillage that way.

Boiling water will loosen up a lot of the glues found on nerf guns, doing the same thing with an AT2K turret works well, the barrels can be pulled right out after a few seconds in the water.

Twist it the opposite way. It kinda clicks/unlocks, sounds bad, but it's not.

I have a question for college students who have moved out of their parents homes. I know parents can still pay health insurances. Does this rule apply to car insurance also? Is there anything else I should know about moving out?
Please and thank you.

I moved out, I'm still on my parents health insurance (and can be until I'm 25 or 26). I don't have a car, but I will next year. I just asked my dad, I can still be on his insurance when I'm moved out and have a car.

I'm working on making a Doomsayer as a last summer project before I have to slow down my work for college. (Mainly due to lack of tools at my apartment). All was well until I was reassembling the turret so I can test the rotation mech.

When I have the turret assembled like shown

(shown outside of the larger black piece to show order, it's correct, isn't it?)


Another view, pieces spread out

the metal bar does not extend out of the last big beefy gear piece to attach my 1/8" pushnut fastener. As can be seen here:


and here:


I've read how important that fastener and it's position is, so I don't want to cut down the black plastic tube on the big beefy gear to expose more metal bar without first getting some advice.

I've taken off the pushnut fastener from the other side (the part of the turret facing away from the plunger tube) and put on a new one hopefully a little further up the rod to get me a little bit of space, but it didn't work.
My gears were glued where AssassinNF glued his, seen here, because I'll be using CPVC barrels. I took off the glue, but I still don't have enough room.

Here's some pictures of my glued over spring. The center is wax paper, I had to be creative in how to be able to get it off the beefy gear without using lube.
It's flat at the top and bottom, except where I've tried to cut away a little. It does not compress at all.






and here's a picture of how much of the metal bar is extending from the other side:



I think the problem is that the flat plastic disk that goes over the spring is sitting too high. But to go lower, the spring must compress. Has this happened to anyone else? How should I fix it?

Edit: Changed some spacing.

Edit 2: Thanks, Salmon, I took off some hot glue and got it working.