Have you had any feeding issues after sanding down those nubs?

None whatsoever.

In this post I'll show you how to modify this gun to shoot further and hold 18 darts. First off, you'll want to unscrew the magazine cover. After that, unscrew the cocking handle and the yellow cover plate that spans the length of the gun. Unscrew the rest of the gun.



Now you have to remove the main casing, this is the tricky part. First, take out the little black screw that connects the dart pusher to the flat orange tab coming out of the gun. Next, lift the tab up and pull the dart pusher connector out. Finaly, gently lift the main casing up and half cock the gun, the main casing should pop off. Remove the plunger cover and the spring.



Remove the trigger, the slam-fire bar, and the plunger securing bar.(the piece of plastic next to the plunger with two screws in it)



To increase the load capacity of your gun to 18 darts, simply Dremal off these two spokes in the magazine.




Next, take off the plunger and remove the o-ring.Using a long 1/4 inch drill bit, drill out the air restrictor.



Unfortunately, I forgot to take a picture of the breech hole, but you can simply look over the dart tube until you find a small hole on the side. Then you can wrap one turn of electrical tape around the dart tube, making sure the hole is covered. Put back on the o-ring and the plunger, then insert the bolt assembly into the gun. Then put in the barrel. Next screw in the plunger securing bar, the trigger, the spring and plunger cover, and finally the slam-fire bar. Then pull the cocking handle all the way forward. Slide the dart pusher tab onto its post. Now, very slowly, lower the upper casing down onto the main casing, making sure to let the dart pusher tab through its hole. Screw every thing back together and you're done.

Scary.

Instead of using sandpaper to grind down the rail ridges, a flat file works a lot better. I use it for smoothing out burrs, and actually used a needle file to grind out a slot for my Raiderpistol.

Also, zip ties are awesome. Epoxy or a flexible adhesive like GOOP holds it together so it doesn't jiggle, while zip ties keep the parts together enough so that the adhesive doesn't snap.

Umm, what about a dremel for the rail?

I really like this. This makes the Recon a VERY viable integration gun. I'm definitely doing this if I get another Recon. Can you still fire it the usual way at all?

Nope, slam-fire is the only mode of fire.

HA.

The problem with any slamfire gun, even if they still have standard fire, is that they're too jerky to be used in an outdoor war by themselves. And why would you want to decrease the accuracy of a recon when you could just buy a speedload 6? They already do this, and they cost $5 less than a full recon.

I'm sure you're proud of your work, and you would happily use this in whatever war you attend. In which case, good job. People (like myself) will have reasons why they don't like this blaster, but if you do, then that's all that matters.

First off, I mostly use this gun for zombie games, where very little accuracy is needed, also, This mod was done before the speedload six was introduced.

The Recon, although relativly powerful, has fallen below par in comparison with other clip fed guns, such as the Stampede and Raider. The Recons' painfully slow rate-of-fire and low dart capacity are the main cause of this decrease in popularity. The solution to rescue the Recons reputation?

Make it have slam-fire.

I decided to make the mod relatively simple by not using any hard to obtain materials. With a little skill with the Dremel and some PVC glue, you're good to go. The basic principal behind this mod is to have the bolt sled release the plunger catch at the exact moment it hits the front of the gun. In order to do this, the trigger slide must pull under the catch instead of pushing under it.

First, I removed the trigger slide and replaced it with a custom reverse facing slide. Then the bolt sled was modified as well as the front of the trigger. Read this mod guide to see how you too can have a slam-fire Recon.

Unscrew the gun and lift off the casing, then take out the spring, jam door, the plunger assembly, the plunger catch, and the two locks. The locks look like this:




Take out the two small black screws on the underside of the bolt sled, and knock out the spring and lock from inside the sled. Now, remove the trigger and locate a small stud in the top of the trigger assembly as shown.



Using the Dremel, cut the top of the trigger in half starting at the stud and going to the back.



Cut a 5cm by 8mm piece of from a 1/2 inch PVC pipe. Next, cut two 2cm by 8mm pieces from the same PVC pipe.



Prime the cut part of the trigger (not the piece you cut off) with PVC primer, then prime all of the custom PVC pieces. Hint: it may be necessary to heat the PVC pieces with a micro torch and then hammer them flat to make a better fit.

Glue the largest PVC piece onto the trigger, then glue the two small pieces at the end, directly on top of each other.



Once the glue is set, Dremel the two top pieces to a 45 degree angle approximately 1/2cm long.



Out of the piece you cut off of the trigger, cut two 2cm lengths. It'sokay if their a bit shorter than that.

Angle two of the corners of both pieces so that they're slightly triangular.

Now glue them together and then glue that piece to the front of the trigger bar. With the Dremeled edges pointing up.


Dremel off the two semicircles of plastic next to the spring post on the trigger. Then crack off the square flap at the very bottom of the trigger.



Drill a hole with a 1/2mm drill bit through the spring post on the back of the trigger and a corresponding hole in the casing of the gun.

Now, notice that right underneath the stock holder the back of the handle sweeps out into a rectangular box, helping to support the stock. Cut off the top of this box and Dremel down about half a centimeter.



On the edges of the trigger hole there are two ridges: One on the top and one on the bottom. These must be removed on both sides.



The back of the trigger spring box must be taken out.There are three parallel plates where the locks used to go. The middle plate needs to be Dremeled out.Take the bolt sled and Dremel out the wall of the lock case that faces the clip. Then Dremel across the back edge, removing the screw tubes.



Make the same cuts on the other side of the gun casing as on the first side. There isn't a trigger spring box or lock plates on that side.

Finally, I used a Maverick trigger spring as the spring for the Recon trigger. You'll have to cut the rings on the end of the spring in order to get it into the holes. Some stretching may be necessary.



Put everything into the gun and screw together. Your Recon can now slam fire. Unfortunately this is the only mode of fire, but this isn't too bad because all you have to do to single fire is keep the cocking handle almost all the way up and jerking it forward, eliminating the time needed to completely pull the handle all the way from the back of the gun.

You shoud really name them Aurora Borealis and Aurora Australis.

This gives me an excuse to finish the Nite-Mav that I started way back when. Granted I would have to completely rip off the top, but still.

That is one of the most mental modifications I've seen for a FNG...I don't see why SUCH a fast RoF is required though. Any ranges?

It gets an average of about 100 to 120 feet, no joke. The fast ROF is handy when a hoard of zeds are rushing at you.

I am unconvinced that 400 degrees is enough to properly anneal the spring. My understanding is that you need to get it to just under the austenizing temperature, and hold it there for a few hours in order to release the cold working stresses that got introduced when the spring got stretched. The temperature required varies a lot between grades of steel, but the ranges I've seen are between 500 - 1500 degrees. A 500-700 degree oven might help, but the 400 degrees suggested is almost certainly a waste of electricity. This isn't such a big deal for a magazine spring such as we see in this mod, but I would throw a much more significant shit fit if someone tried to do this with a plunger spring.

hamoidar: let us know whether that spring shrinks back or weakens over time. If it is still serviceable after a year, then all this theoretical rambling of mine is moot.

taer: the cavity in the disk is where the throwing arm pokes up into to fling the discs. I think.

A freind of mine hase taken some classes on metals and explained the same prosess paloose has stated. The spring was heated with a torch, then quickly dropped into a tub of cold water. Then it was baked for an hour at 450 degrees. So far, I haven't had the spring wear out at all, and have used it heavily since modding it.

Nice job.
Would 1 1/2" PVC work for the fluorescent tube protector? The discs fit perfectly in it.

Although the discs fit in the 1 1/2 in pvc, the pvc will not fit into the magazine bottom. You could support the pvc from the sides, but this would be pretty messy. The pvc is also much heavier than the protector sleeve.

I was going to do something like this but then I realized that I'd be better off just doing a homemade flywheel gun.

I'm mean props to you for doing this but why keep the weak motors and tiny flywheels when you redid everything else?

The flywheel motors are running at nine volts, and have a few layers of electrical tape on them to help them grip the darts. The original voltage would not be able to keep the flywheels up to speed for more than five or six darts.

It's so the black piece at the bottom can fit in easier. Though, I'm sure you could just pressure fit it in but that'd cause stress on the clear part and possibly break it. But, I may be wrong. This is just my assumption.

Actually, the 25 degree angle is so that the disc pusher transitions smoothly from the original magazine to the extention pipe.

High-Capacity Mod for the Nerf Praxis Magazine


This mod guid will show you how to transform your 10 disc magazine into a 27 disc high-capacity mag. Even though it holds 27 discs, the magazine is barely longer than a Stampede clip.

First, unscrew your magazine and remove the bottom cap and the lower spring seat. Using a Dremal sanding drum, dremal down all the guiding bars and the protruding edge up 1/4″ into the magazine. Do this to both sides. Next, Dremal the three guide bars on the disc pusher completely off, and round off the bottom edge with sand paper. Sorry there’s not very many pictures, I forgot to take them during the modding process, but I will do my best to explain in detail. Now, you will need an 8″ section of a fluorescent tube protector, and an end cap for it.(these tubes can be bought at any home improvement store, they also come with end-caps)


Using a Dremal sanding drum, sand a 25 degree angle slant all along the inside edge. This will allow the discs to be loaded smoothly. Set this aside for now.




Unravel the wire binding from a cheap notebook, and smooth it out. Take a 36″ piece of 1/2″ pvc and Dremal a slit at one end. Bend the end of the wire into a small L-shape, and slid the wire into the slit. Wrap the wire around the pipe, with about 1/4″ of space between the coils. My spring is pretty messy, but hey, it works.
Drill a small hole where the coil ends, and push the end of the wire into it. This will keep the spring from unraveling.


You can now remove the spring from the pipe. Pre-heat an oven to five hundred degrees, and bake the spring for an hour. (get your parents permission)

Finally, take the fluorescent tube sleeve that you fabricated earlier, and apply hot glue around the top of the pipe. Do this only to the top portion.(about 1/2″ down from the side you dremaled to a slant) Push this end into the bottom of the magazine, making sure to keep it straight while the glue cools. Next layer a good amount of hot glue over the join.



Take your new spring and duct-tape it to the original one, bottom to top.

Drop the disc pusher into the bottom of the pipe, making sure to put it in the right way.(the side with the cut out should face up when you look down the top of the magazine)



Next drop the spring into the pipe and put on the pipe cap.







If all went well the magazine should be able to hold around 27 discs.

What's the accuracy like on that thing? Is it just typical of streamlines or is the blaster part of the determining factor? Can you fire stephans with it?

To be realistic, I like to see creative mods like this, and mods in general, but it looks like your dremel attacked your barricade, your spare parts bin took a crap on the remains, and your hot glue gun vomited all over the thing.

The accuracy is what you would expect from streamline darts; terrible, but if the first dart dosn't hit them, the next 17 will. Stephens are not really a option, since the dart pusher has a trajectory just long enough for the stock darts. I actually cleaned it up a few days back and will post a pic soon.

Turning a semi-auto ten dart gun into a full auto, clip-fed beast.

This is probably the most ambitious mod I have ever attempted.

First almost all of the internals were removed in preparation for the mod.

The dart pusher mechanism consists of a Lego worm gear box, driven by a 18 volt motor. The box turns a gear with half the teeth filed off on one side. As the gear turns, the teeth catch a PVC bar which also has teeth. The bar is connected to a spring that is stretched as the bar moves forward.


The connected gear pushes the bar until it turns to its blank side. By this time the bar has pushed a dart fully into the spinning flywheels and the dart is fired. When the gear is not engaged with the bar, the spring pulls it to its original position and the process is repeated.



In order for this to work there must be a constant supply of darts to the pusher. With the original rotation mechanism for the barrel removed, the only way for sufficient dart delivery was to make the blaster clip-fed. I figured the best way to make a stable clip holder was to use one from a stock clip gun.

An alpha trooper donated its handle and clip holder in exchange for a coveted spot in the spare parts bin. The original handle was removed from the barricade. The alpha handle and clip holder were dremeled to a perfect fit and glued in.

Once the flywheels were moded with tape to accommodate steamline darts, and the voltage had been raised to nine volts, the gun was ready to fire.

When I tested the gun, the flywheels screamed with speed. With a Stampede clip fully loaded, I pulled the trigger. A stream of darts sprayed out of the gun emptying the clip in two seconds. Unfortunately, I didn’t take pictures during the process so I can’t make a detailed mod guide, but I hope you can use this as inspiration and make your own fully automatic clip-fed Barricade.I'll be posting a vid of it shooting soon.