I know many of you despise these 'Idea' posts, but I saw something recently that got me wondering if such a thing is possible for Nerf.

Mattel Tommy Burst

A cocking slide with 6 semi-stops with a 6 dart clip?

I'm simply posting this here to get people thinking more about auto spring-powered guns, which is a novel idea.

You didn't put the gun back together correctly is all I can figure. The rotation mechanism has to be seated properly.

Haha, actually, I fixed my problem a couple days ago. The problem wasn't that the mechanism wasn't seated properly. The screws holding the back piece of the mechanism in place weren't as tight as possible. Woops!

Haha, thanks anyways.

My modded maverick rotates fine while it is open, but as soon as I put the second half of the shell on, the barrel hardly rotates. I have no idea what is going on. I have looked for bent peices or other things that could create friction, but have found none. If I slide the turret out as if to reload and pull the trigger, the rotation mech works fine. Also, if I spin it when it is out, it spins fine. Can anyone help?

Edit: I forgot to mention; I did CS's rotation mech mod.

I had the same problem. Make sure all the screws holding in the mechanism are all as tight as possible.

If they're tight, tighten them some more.

That fixed my problem.

I found this episode on Youtube about a series on microwaving things. I actually laughed out loud at what happened to the microwave, and I was shocked to find out that it still functioned. I would have thought the metal springs and such inside the gun would have melted/fused/stretched.

Anyways, enjoy:
Microwaving a Nerf Gun

I'm curious as to how the shells from the Ruff Stuff Double Shot and the Ruff Stuff Rapid Fire Rifle work. I noticed that there's a black ring inside that's pushed down when you insert darts, what is the purpose of that? Also, would Stefans work with the shells once the rod is removed? Also, what is that small circle on the bottom of the shells, it's a small indent on the plastic right outside of the circle signifying the seal?

I want to understand the mechanisms fully before I venture out to try some random mods, since I don't have easy access to replacements for them.

Thanks!

Ahhhh... That helps a lot... So shall I remove the black washer and spring?

I've tried sawing off the straight part of the shell at the top and replacing it with CPVC, but now the dart barely leaves the shell when I fire... I'm guessing it's too tight a fit, but I'm using two inches of 1/2" CPVC, following a mod of the Double Shot I saw elsewhere on the forums... They said they got 3 times the distance. Do I need different CPVC?

Edit: Haha, ok, nevermind that. I finally figured out how to remove the bottom piece of the rod. Everything works fine. I read the other mod wrong where it said it gave it 3 times the range, it was 3 times the power. Which is about right. It shoots harder, but it's range is only increased by a foot at most in the Double Shot. Seems like a waste of effort to mod the shells like that alone. Thanks for your help guys!

I came to this mod because I had broken the front part of the plunger on one of my night finders, but after finding this out, I did it to my other NF as well.

As you know you can unscrew the plunger head off of the spring stick, if you do you can pull apart the two plastic parts that, with the o-ring, make up the plunger head. Now you can throw away the screw and front plastic part. (Screw is too short to use with this mod)

Then at Home Depot you can buy from the toilet section a fluidmaster seal (242). A replacement seal for fluidmaster 400A fill valve. They come in a red and green package.
Then go to the screw and bolt section and get machine #4-40x3/4" round head slotted 8 pcs. 27461 pack (green).

Now take the seal. The side that has the nipple will be facing out; the other side will be facing the back plastic part. You need to trim the lip off of the seal and cut the corners off of the plug on the side facing the plastic back. Also cut off the nipple.

Now take the screw and put three bolts on it. Then push it in the rubber part. Then put the parts together, going seal, o ring, back plastic part. Then screw it back on the spring stick. You’re good to GO!

Now you have a plunger that handles getting hit and now has a double seal. Also it allows you to use a stronger spring with out breaking the plunger head.

(Sorry about no pictures but I left my camera back at college, I am on spring break)

I know this is a very old post, but this sounds like an interesting idea. How was preformance? What were your ranges? Was there any friction?

So I know there have been ideas on how to remove the AR from the Recon, and many of them are pretty good. In particular the use of a stove's fire. It should loosen the glue and plastic, but according to some, it doesn't do a very good job. Another person had the idea of heating up a steel rod and letting it melt straight through it all.

Besides using fire, people want to cut open the tube, dremel off tabs, hammer in screwdrivers and 'keep a steady hand' with a drill.

I propose something simple, easy, less invasive and certainly practical.

I'll skip the steps to taking the gun apart because those already exist here.

I apologize in advance for the picture's quality. I had to use my camcorder as my digital camera happens to be in New York with my family. Though this guide doesn't even necessarily NEED pictures, I know how much we all love to see what's going on.

Let's say you happen to have some 15/32 brass laying around. Put one end of it to an open flame until the flame turns a greenish hue. At this point you know your brass is literally burning. Take your barrel and carefully slide the brass into its front open end. Note: I'm just showing the picture as visual guide. Don't let your hot brass go while it's in there or you'll melt the sides of the barrel and make a horrible mess.



Twist the brass into the AR, you'll feel it sink in a little. Then rotate the brass. You should hear a squeaky sound. That's the plastic of the AR melting onto the brass. That's a happy sound.

When the brass sticks when you try to rotate it, you can pull it out and see these lovely sights.




Repeat the process as many times as you need to get the AR to stick to the brass. It took me two goes to get rid of the top portion of the AR. The lower portions (the part that sits on the spring of the AR, get's a bit stuck because it's wider than the joint of the two sections of barrel) are still there. While it's not completely necessary to remove it (at least I don't think it is) you can still do it with the same method, except you don't wait for the plastic to bond to the hot metal. If it does, it will cool down too much for the brass to slice through it, and then your brass will be stuck in your barrel (learned this the hard way). If it does, the heat from the brass would have melted and loosened the plastic around the joint, which you can pull apart, however; this is messy and destructive to the plastic, as shown below. You can still put it back together and glue it up all simple-like, so it's not a big deal, but I hate wrecking anything even slightly.




So yeah, there's your clean barrel, without that despicable AR. No brute force. No cussing.
Removing the top portion of the AR took me approximately 1 1/2 minutes, including heat up time.

Hope this helps some of you.

Hey guys, I host Nerf/Sword Wars in Montreal. We usually have the Zombie games when using swords, however this time we decided to try a Zombie game the right way. With headshot kills only.

Zombie rules (and other gametype rules) can be found here

Basic idea is, there are a few players who are Zombies to begin with. They must hold on to other players for 10 seconds combined to turn them into a Zombie. Players can't free themselves, another player must kill or remove the Zombie from them. Shots to the limbs are (supposed) to disable them, but not count towards killing the Zombie. Shot to the head is the only way to put those monsters down.

The video!

It's ridiculously fun to play. Whenever I host a war, pretty much everyone demands we play Zombie at least two or three times.

No one has gotten hurt playing Zombie (indoors or outdoors) despite it being practically like tackle football.

If anyone is interested, I highly recommend considering this game type at your wars! It wouldn't work too well with high-powered guns or hot-glue-tipped stefans though. Of course you could always modify the game to have torso shots kill Zombies.