AA and AAA batteries do not last the same amount of time with the same power. The voltage is the same, but the amperage, which determines how long it can handle a load (basically, don't nitpick, I know the difference), is different. D batteries last much much longer.

Actually, I don't know about regular Alkaline, but NiMH rechargeables for both AA/AAA and D both seem to have about the same current-time rating (~2500 mAh) so in that respect they should have about the same power.

One question I had, which I wasn't quite able to discern from your writeup, was whether or not you were connecting the two 7.2V batteries in series or parallel. Also, what kind of battery life are you getting from that setup? When I get my hands on a Vulcan I'd like to do a similar battery mod, but I was wondering if it would be better to just get a higher voltage battery (9.6V or something) rather than buy two lower voltage ones.

Typical capacity of a single (decent quality) D battery is about 12,000 mAH (link).

Yeah, I looked it up a bit after I posted and found that was true for alkaline batteries, though the consumer-grade rechargeables (Energizer, Duracell, Rayovac, etc) seem to only have around 2500 mAh apiece, which seems kind of lame, to be honest. To get something around 10,000 mAh you have to get industrial-grade NiMH, which cost a fortune (~$20 apiece).

And thanks for the info about the connection. I figure it was probably series, but I wasn't sure if running the motor at that high of a voltage was a good idea.

AA and AAA batteries do not last the same amount of time with the same power. The voltage is the same, but the amperage, which determines how long it can handle a load (basically, don't nitpick, I know the difference), is different. D batteries last much much longer.

Actually, I don't know about regular Alkaline, but NiMH rechargeables for both AA/AAA and D both seem to have about the same current-time rating (~2500 mAh) so in that respect they should have about the same power.

One question I had, which I wasn't quite able to discern from your writeup, was whether or not you were connecting the two 7.2V batteries in series or parallel. Also, what kind of battery life are you getting from that setup? When I get my hands on a Vulcan I'd like to do a similar battery mod, but I was wondering if it would be better to just get a higher voltage battery (9.6V or something) rather than buy two lower voltage ones.

There must be a huge variation because, like I said, I went to each store and took a variety of darts with me, and none of them fit well enough to use. 1/2" Sch. 80 PVC is way too big, and 1/2" CPVC is way too small (i.e. can't even force the dart all the way in)

So far the only success I've had with CPVC is by reaming it out with a 1/2" spade bit. Pain in the ass but at least it sort of works then.

Except among the darts I tried in the store, even stock darts wouldn't fit. My white FBR is a little fat, but it works fine in stock barrels.

I guess the only option is to order from someplace that has better tolerance control, like McMaster.

EDIT: The CPVC I bought from ACE is almost exactly 15/32, a full 1/32 too small to even consider using a dart in.

1/2" CPVC is way too small (i.e. can't even force the dart all the way in)

Sorry if you've already tried this, but when I first tried using cpvc as a barrel material I also thought it was way too tight. I, however, was just trying to push it in, instead of twisting. If you haven't already, try twisting the foam into the cpvc.

Sorry if that doesn't help you.

Yeah, that does help, thanks, but that's even only after drilling out the CPVC with a 1/2" spade bit, and even then it won't twist in all the way. It's just really, really too small.

To everyone saying you can get working PVC/CPVC from Home Depot, Ace, or Lowes, I have no idea what you guys are talking about. I went to both of my local ones and took some darts with me. NONE of the 1/2" CPVC I've found will fit darts comfortably (they're all way too tight), and the 1/2" PVC is obviously way too big. Do you guys all just buy it on McMaster now? Because without drilling out the CPVC with a 1/2" bit (which is a pain in the ass), none of it is workable as a barrel.

Sorry for the bump, but I have a quick question.

To those who removed the rod that the dart fits over--How did you remove it? It seems like it would be hard to get a cutting tool down in that tiny barrel, and so far I can't figure out how. I need to remove it for it to be able to shoot my Stefans with little or no hole in the back.

Thanks for the help.

EDIT:

Actually, I managed to get it out. Not in the "best" way, but it ended up turning out well.

I just took a cylindrical object (in this case, a head-changeable screwdriver minus the head) and pushed down on the rod until it snapped off. When it came off, it incidentally left a little bit of the reinforcement plastic on the barrel, so the darts won't get shoved too far down, but still without the rod. This enabled me to use my Stefans in the clip with no jamming and great amounts of power (I also took out the air restrictor, obviously) The Stefans I made are about as long as the foam part alone of the Streamline darts, so about 1/3 or so of an inch shorter than stock. But I'm pleased that they work so well. I can see where ones that were too short (maybe less than 1.5 inches or something) wouldn't get pushed far enough into the barrel to create a good seal and thus not work as well.

Anyway, just thought I would share my results.

Sorry if this is a stupid question, but I'm going to be buying material for captain slug's washer/felt stefans, and wanted to know if I could buy the foam in incriments of something between 25' and 250'. Optimally I would like 100'.

Here is the link to the part in question.

Thanks!

If you search for foam rod you can get it from there in 20' increments.

I bought some FBR from Ace Hardware a long, long time ago (couple years at least), and it's sort of a dark grey color, nice density and excellent fit in stock blasters. Recently I bought some more Ace Hardware FBR, but this stuff is not nearly as quality. It's a lighter grey, less dense, and has a pretty crappy fit in stock blasters (too thin even after heating)

So, two questions:

1. What's the best source for FBR these days?

2. Is there any way to improve/fix the FBR I already have? i.e. make it thicker/more dense.

Here are some comparison pictures of the two Ace FBRs (most recent/crappy one on the right)

So in terms of good foam, would you guys recommend the Log Home white foam or the Mile High black foam? Which is better for stock blasters (i.e. no PVC or brass in anything, just stock barrels) ?

Thanks in advance.

So I recently ordered and received 40' of LogHome's white FBR, and I have to say it's a night-and-day difference next to the Ace foam. It's got a much better diameter, way better density, and works great in stock blasters.

One note is that I did some testing with making slug darts (with the #8 washers and felt tips) and tried a couple of different lengths (2" darts vs. 2.5" darts) and, in clip system blasters anyway, the 2.5" darts work MUCH better. I'm guessing this is because the length of the dart is pushed farther back into the barrel, creating a better seal.

Also, I tried a couple darts burning a hole in the back of the dart, and some without the hole. I didn't see any noticeable difference in either distance or accuracy with or without the hole, so I'll probably do without since it's more work to make the holes as well.

EDIT: And in regards to adhesive, I tried this "Weld Bond" stuff that I found at Ace, but it's basically no better than Elmer's Glue, so I started using a tiny drop of hot glue instead. Works great.