Doubleshot. Gets about 60ft.
Expand-A-Blast. Gets about 80-90ft
Clear longshot breech.
SuperMAXX 250
Tri-barrel SS1
Tacticool 3k
Ryan approved! (Probably Ryan!)
Daniel Beaver's Content
There have been 1000 items by Daniel Beaver (Search limited from 20-January 97)
#263849 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by
on 30 January 2010 - 11:52 PM
in
Modifications
Mod party results. Attendees: Myself, Busta, and atomatron. atomatron did most of the modding.
Doubleshot. Gets about 60ft.
Expand-A-Blast. Gets about 80-90ft
Clear longshot breech.
SuperMAXX 250
Tri-barrel SS1
Tacticool 3k
Ryan approved! (Probably Ryan!)
Doubleshot. Gets about 60ft.
Expand-A-Blast. Gets about 80-90ft
Clear longshot breech.
SuperMAXX 250
Tri-barrel SS1
Tacticool 3k
Ryan approved! (Probably Ryan!)
#278589 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by
on 25 June 2010 - 10:49 PM
in
Modifications
A Titan pistol. This gun was a lot of fun to make. The pump is a bike pump from Kmart, and it works very well.
#315273 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by
on 05 May 2012 - 08:16 PM
in
Modifications
#203612 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by
on 15 January 2009 - 05:26 PM
in
Modifications
Here are a few of my workable mods:
An SM750 integrated into an NF shell. I find this much more comfortable than the SM750 shell.
An NF with an AT2k integration. The NF has a new spring, a better O-Ring and an internal CPVC coupler. The AT2k has a PVC coupler, airflow mod and a plugged pump. The trigger fires both guns. The NF gets around 75'. I haven't range tested the AT2k. I thought about cutting down the pump, but I think its more practical with a full-sized pump (although it looks more silly).
My main primary and sidearm. Nothing too fancy here.
An SM750 integrated into an NF shell. I find this much more comfortable than the SM750 shell.
An NF with an AT2k integration. The NF has a new spring, a better O-Ring and an internal CPVC coupler. The AT2k has a PVC coupler, airflow mod and a plugged pump. The trigger fires both guns. The NF gets around 75'. I haven't range tested the AT2k. I thought about cutting down the pump, but I think its more practical with a full-sized pump (although it looks more silly).
My main primary and sidearm. Nothing too fancy here.
#250041 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by
on 09 September 2009 - 11:12 PM
in
Modifications
The original barrel stabilizer piece works well to straighten the barrels on the AT3k.
#267298 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by
on 27 February 2010 - 10:28 PM
in
Modifications
For when you absolutely have to be a dick.
#249466 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by
on 03 September 2009 - 12:55 AM
in
Modifications
My take on rork's Mega Missile Decrapification:
#346673 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by
on 10 May 2015 - 08:23 PM
in
Modifications
Hoppers don't work too well on 2k's, but RSCB clips do.
#245303 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by
on 03 August 2009 - 02:50 PM
in
Modifications
#233061 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by
on 28 May 2009 - 02:26 PM
in
Modifications
I was playing around with my SuperMAXX 350 today and threw some CPVC couplers on the front, as well as widened the airflow path between the plunger and the turret. I wanted to experiment with barrel lengths, and found that my ranges maxed out at 40' with 1.5" barrels. Meh.
#307277 Homemades Picture Thread
Posted by
on 12 November 2011 - 01:21 PM
in
Homemades
Langley: I recognize that those 5/8" ID washers are difficult to come by, some I'm developing an alternate method for making them which uses the standard 1/4" ID washers. I'm working on my new writeup right now, and should be done by tonight.
Anyways, here's what I came to post: Baby SNAP. It's a shortened SNAPbow mk5, and uses a 3 inch spring with 1.5" of draw. It clocks in at about 120fps on the chrono, which is enough to give it ranges of 70-80ft.
Anyways, here's what I came to post: Baby SNAP. It's a shortened SNAPbow mk5, and uses a 3 inch spring with 1.5" of draw. It clocks in at about 120fps on the chrono, which is enough to give it ranges of 70-80ft.
#307048 Homemades Picture Thread
Posted by
on 06 November 2011 - 07:51 PM
in
Homemades
Firing video
It's a Reverse SNAP, basically similar to Carbon's SNAP 4. Just a rough prototype for now, but a friend of mine was really eager to try this concept, so we whipped it up this afternoon. It's powered by ACE#49 springs (basically identical to k26s), and hits about 130fps on the chrono (80-90ish feet). There's a lot of dead space in this setup, but whatever. I was expecting this layout to be an ergonomic catastrophe, but I was pleasantly surprise at how easy it was to prime. The recoil is strange, but very controllable.
Here's some internals. Nothing special on the right-side, just a standard SNAP. On the left side, you see the priming bolt which the grip pushes against. You also see another set of springs, which act as a cushion for the plunger bar - making this gun is 100% dry fire safe. It's hard to see, but there's a washer behind the main spring rest which acts as the secondary rest for the buffer springs.
It's a Reverse SNAP, basically similar to Carbon's SNAP 4. Just a rough prototype for now, but a friend of mine was really eager to try this concept, so we whipped it up this afternoon. It's powered by ACE#49 springs (basically identical to k26s), and hits about 130fps on the chrono (80-90ish feet). There's a lot of dead space in this setup, but whatever. I was expecting this layout to be an ergonomic catastrophe, but I was pleasantly surprise at how easy it was to prime. The recoil is strange, but very controllable.
Here's some internals. Nothing special on the right-side, just a standard SNAP. On the left side, you see the priming bolt which the grip pushes against. You also see another set of springs, which act as a cushion for the plunger bar - making this gun is 100% dry fire safe. It's hard to see, but there's a washer behind the main spring rest which acts as the secondary rest for the buffer springs.
#306949 Homemades Picture Thread
Posted by
on 04 November 2011 - 02:49 PM
in
Homemades
Testing platform. Chrono's in the mail, data on Monday.
#307787 Homemades Picture Thread
Posted by
on 25 November 2011 - 08:17 PM
in
Homemades
I made several of these blasters with 1" PVC telescoped into 1-1/4" PVC. The front of the plunger tube pushes back against the plunger head, similar to how longshots work. Test video, showing the priming motion of the last blaster.
#318185 Homemades Picture Thread
Posted by
on 08 July 2012 - 06:08 PM
in
Homemades
A SNAP variant of the DCIT. It's a full-sized SNAP, with 6" of draw, 16" barrel and footlong integrated RSCB clip. The plunger tube is too long for comfortable priming - half-length makes a lot more sense for these. It would work a lot better with a longer trigger bar, but I didn't have the materials to do that. I'm probably going to cut down the barrel, plunger tube and hopper as well as shorten the draw to 3".
#317087 Homemades Picture Thread
Posted by
on 16 June 2012 - 09:45 PM
in
Homemades
#316843 Homemades Picture Thread
Posted by
on 10 June 2012 - 08:09 PM
in
Homemades
"Bullpac" is taken, so I call this the Bowpup. Basically a SanchoPanza powered by rear-mounted bow arms. It amuses me.
It is extremely powerful - I clocked it at 250fps on my chrono with a foot-long hopper.
FIRING VIDEO
Has 6" of draw, 20" bow arms, and is 23" long.
The bow arms are off-set, so they don't smack you in the face. This doesn't have a proper stock right now, but for the next one I'm going to use a PVC cross instead of a tee, and attach a standard PVC stock.
It is extremely powerful - I clocked it at 250fps on my chrono with a foot-long hopper.
FIRING VIDEO
Has 6" of draw, 20" bow arms, and is 23" long.
The bow arms are off-set, so they don't smack you in the face. This doesn't have a proper stock right now, but for the next one I'm going to use a PVC cross instead of a tee, and attach a standard PVC stock.
#298523 Homemades Picture Thread
Posted by
on 24 May 2011 - 05:39 PM
in
Homemades
I've been working on an update to my pump-action SNAP, and have something of a mk2 version ready:
Instead of using fragile hard-to-find 1-1/4" thinwall PVC for the grip section, this verion uses three 1-1/2" PVC couplers. Gorilla tape holds them together very firmly, so much so that I completely skipped my plan to epoxy them together. The center ridges inside the coupler need to be sanded down just a bit with the dremel before they will slide freely, but it is not very much work.
Instead of using cross-bar for priming, I simply use a 10-24 screw. The one pictured is too long, so I had to prop it up using nuts - a 5/8" screw should be just about the correct length. This is a hell of a lot easier to make than the cross-bar design, since you only need to cut one slot, and that slot doesn't need to be off-center.
The most prominent feature is that the body extends all the way to the end of the barrel. The barrel is supported on one end by the hopper, and at the tip by a bunch of couplers, so that it does not wobble independently from the blaster. The front end is robust enough that you can use the blaster as a goddamn war club if you really wanted to.
The hopper sticks out of a slot, and plugs into an internal coupler. You need to dremel down the upper edges so that it will fit.
The hopper is offset, so that you can aim directly down the length of the blaster without anything obscuring your vision. Very easy to aim.
The internals are the same as my other SNAP, so you can follow that thread if you want to build one. Also dry-fireable, because why not? And because someone is going to ask: the barrel is 12", and the entire blaster is 3-1/2 feet long.
Instead of using fragile hard-to-find 1-1/4" thinwall PVC for the grip section, this verion uses three 1-1/2" PVC couplers. Gorilla tape holds them together very firmly, so much so that I completely skipped my plan to epoxy them together. The center ridges inside the coupler need to be sanded down just a bit with the dremel before they will slide freely, but it is not very much work.
Instead of using cross-bar for priming, I simply use a 10-24 screw. The one pictured is too long, so I had to prop it up using nuts - a 5/8" screw should be just about the correct length. This is a hell of a lot easier to make than the cross-bar design, since you only need to cut one slot, and that slot doesn't need to be off-center.
The most prominent feature is that the body extends all the way to the end of the barrel. The barrel is supported on one end by the hopper, and at the tip by a bunch of couplers, so that it does not wobble independently from the blaster. The front end is robust enough that you can use the blaster as a goddamn war club if you really wanted to.
The hopper sticks out of a slot, and plugs into an internal coupler. You need to dremel down the upper edges so that it will fit.
The hopper is offset, so that you can aim directly down the length of the blaster without anything obscuring your vision. Very easy to aim.
The internals are the same as my other SNAP, so you can follow that thread if you want to build one. Also dry-fireable, because why not? And because someone is going to ask: the barrel is 12", and the entire blaster is 3-1/2 feet long.
#316477 Homemades Picture Thread
Posted by
on 03 June 2012 - 02:34 PM
in
Homemades
Here's some more pictures of the SuperPAC (a bunch of people had questions about it). I'm not going to post a writeup - just take a look at Carbon's SNAP 7.5 if you need guidance.
The bow arms and hopper are offset by 45 degrees, in order to give line-of-sight clearance, and also to give the string more clearance from your left hand
A slot is cut out of the PVC for the hopper, and I used packing tape and goop to seal the coupler. No pretty craftsmanship here.
The front T was a donor from one of Kane's AAbows. The tip of the barrel is flush with the hole.
Ghetto plunger rod. Nylon, skirt seal, and a epoxy ramp with washer catch. I planned to make a rainbow catch for this blaster, but we didn't have parts for it in the shop the night before, so I switched it to a SNAP style catch.
Nothing special here. Cheerios had to fix the trigger - it was originally a nylon l bracket, but it snapped off during the war.
Super special stock. This hooks under your armpit, providing much needed leverage. The gun is basically unusable without this.
The bow arms and hopper are offset by 45 degrees, in order to give line-of-sight clearance, and also to give the string more clearance from your left hand
A slot is cut out of the PVC for the hopper, and I used packing tape and goop to seal the coupler. No pretty craftsmanship here.
The front T was a donor from one of Kane's AAbows. The tip of the barrel is flush with the hole.
Ghetto plunger rod. Nylon, skirt seal, and a epoxy ramp with washer catch. I planned to make a rainbow catch for this blaster, but we didn't have parts for it in the shop the night before, so I switched it to a SNAP style catch.
Nothing special here. Cheerios had to fix the trigger - it was originally a nylon l bracket, but it snapped off during the war.
Super special stock. This hooks under your armpit, providing much needed leverage. The gun is basically unusable without this.
#316279 Homemades Picture Thread
Posted by
on 29 May 2012 - 09:11 AM
in
Homemades
Call Kenny Loggins... 'cuz you're in the Danger Zone.
I built a SuperPAC the night before Cataclysm. Full unibody, seven inches of draw, bow arms mounted all the way forward for maximum mechanical advantage. Shoots laser beams - supa range, supa accuracy, supa rate of fire, supa unfair. Pictured below is our resident fashionista IceNine demolishing fools. I left this behind with Kane and Ryan, since I don't think the TSA would appreciate it.
If you hate this gun, you hate America.
You pinko commie fuck.
I built a SuperPAC the night before Cataclysm. Full unibody, seven inches of draw, bow arms mounted all the way forward for maximum mechanical advantage. Shoots laser beams - supa range, supa accuracy, supa rate of fire, supa unfair. Pictured below is our resident fashionista IceNine demolishing fools. I left this behind with Kane and Ryan, since I don't think the TSA would appreciate it.
If you hate this gun, you hate America.
You pinko commie fuck.
#294776 Homemades Picture Thread
Posted by
on 20 February 2011 - 03:33 PM
in
Homemades
Another pump-action crossbow. It is superficially similar to my old crossbow, but with a number of improvements.
Internals below (click the picture for a closer view). This is not a SNAP; it utilizes a ring-type catch, built from PVC endcaps, and is substantially similar to several other designs that have been posted. The meat of the plunger rod is a 1/2" wooden dowel, with the rear section of CPVC acting as a stabilizer and catch face. A little screw sticks out the bottom of the catch, which the trigger pushes against. With the exception of the handle, everything is easily acquired at your local hardware store. Still needs a stock.
I could not find workable catch spring for the life of me, so I jimmied up a compromise solution. It works very well, but looks funny.
The bow arms are offset by 45 degrees, to keep them out of my way. This setup offers a clear view down the length of the barrel.
I can't find any decent lubricants down here, so the blaster's performance is seriously hampered by friction. The catch performance seems quite good – I have had no misfires while playing around with it.
EDIT:
Found some lube, yay!
I experimented a bit with bow arm lengths, and 20" arms seems to be a sweet spot in performance, giving me ranges between 90-120ft (my darts are a mish-mash, hence the inconsistency). Much over 24", and performance drops way off. Under 18", draw resistance increases significantly, to the point where the catch spontaneously fails. These are 1/2" PVC arms, FYI, and pre-tension is kept to a minimum.
A note on bows:
Smaller arms will exert much more force due to a couple of factors. First, the deformation of the arms is greatly increased. Second, the force vectors are more parallel with the plunger rod.
Internals below (click the picture for a closer view). This is not a SNAP; it utilizes a ring-type catch, built from PVC endcaps, and is substantially similar to several other designs that have been posted. The meat of the plunger rod is a 1/2" wooden dowel, with the rear section of CPVC acting as a stabilizer and catch face. A little screw sticks out the bottom of the catch, which the trigger pushes against. With the exception of the handle, everything is easily acquired at your local hardware store. Still needs a stock.
I could not find workable catch spring for the life of me, so I jimmied up a compromise solution. It works very well, but looks funny.
The bow arms are offset by 45 degrees, to keep them out of my way. This setup offers a clear view down the length of the barrel.
I can't find any decent lubricants down here, so the blaster's performance is seriously hampered by friction. The catch performance seems quite good – I have had no misfires while playing around with it.
EDIT:
Found some lube, yay!
I experimented a bit with bow arm lengths, and 20" arms seems to be a sweet spot in performance, giving me ranges between 90-120ft (my darts are a mish-mash, hence the inconsistency). Much over 24", and performance drops way off. Under 18", draw resistance increases significantly, to the point where the catch spontaneously fails. These are 1/2" PVC arms, FYI, and pre-tension is kept to a minimum.
A note on bows:
Smaller arms will exert much more force due to a couple of factors. First, the deformation of the arms is greatly increased. Second, the force vectors are more parallel with the plunger rod.
#251481 Homemades Picture Thread
Posted by
on 23 September 2009 - 11:31 PM
in
Homemades
#266231 Homemades Picture Thread
Posted by
on 20 February 2010 - 09:18 PM
in
Homemades
Tornadobow #2
I started making this, but Ice Nine and Ryan ended up doing all the work. Pretty, and it works very well.
Test Firing.
I started making this, but Ice Nine and Ryan ended up doing all the work. Pretty, and it works very well.
Test Firing.
#280025 Homemades Picture Thread
Posted by
on 12 July 2010 - 12:14 AM
in
Homemades
I had not built a SNAP yet, so I gave it a whirl. This is a Mk5 SNAPbow, with some differences. Shoots a tad under 100 feet with a 5-dart hopper, which is everything I hoped for. It worked great at the last war, despite the inevitable breakage (on-site repairs are fun). The whole blaster has a very solid feel, and it is easily disassembled and maintained.
#278586 Homemades Picture Thread
Posted by
on 25 June 2010 - 10:21 PM
in
Homemades
Making its debut at SPANO tomorrow:
#284942 Homemades Picture Thread
Posted by
on 06 September 2010 - 04:05 PM
in
Homemades
A spring-power conversion for the Pump Action Crossbow. This blaster is the same one I'm holding in venom's above post, in a spring-powered configuration.
#294360 Homemades Picture Thread
Posted by
on 11 February 2011 - 08:15 AM
in
Homemades
Good to see you're using normal blasters now, Kane.
I'm not sure I ever posted my SNAP with a skirt seal in this thread. I built this a few months ago purely experimental build, using a preeminent plunger head as a base design for the catch. I wanted to see whether there was a significant performance gap between washer seals and skirt seals. I couldn't see a big difference between them. I also tested this against my Rainbow.
I discussed this at length over at NRev, if you want to read through it.
I'm not sure I ever posted my SNAP with a skirt seal in this thread. I built this a few months ago purely experimental build, using a preeminent plunger head as a base design for the catch. I wanted to see whether there was a significant performance gap between washer seals and skirt seals. I couldn't see a big difference between them. I also tested this against my Rainbow.
I discussed this at length over at NRev, if you want to read through it.
#286793 Homemades Picture Thread
Posted by
on 11 October 2010 - 11:54 AM
in
Homemades
My RainBow. It has a non-retarded handle. And SlapFire! (I did a crappy job of making the catch on this one, so I can fire the gun by slapping it)
#286022 Homemades Picture Thread
Posted by
on 25 September 2010 - 12:12 AM
in
Homemades
Me and Venom built second batch of pump-action SNAPs, based on Carbon's SNAP 7.5 Pump Crossbow. Since I did all the work, I am going to just call it the Beaver Variant just to give it some sort of distinguishing name. This is the Mk2 version, and improved version of the blaster that I posted in Carbon's thread. Click on the pictures to get a full-sized view.
EDIT: Looks like this is basically a SNAP-2. Albeit, with many years of community improvements integrated into the basic design.
A [k26] powers the pictured blaster, with a 7 inch draw length (bringing the spring close to full compression). The cold weather is screwing up my dart fit, so I was only able to get it to fire 85 feet with a 10-shot hopper. It ought to clear 100 feet easily with proper dart fit. The whole blaster is very long, but is not at all ungainly.
EDIT: It does, indeed clear 100ft with proper dart fit, and a 10-shot hopper. Very nice.
The spring sits behind the catch, and a PVC cap with a 5/8" hole acts as a stop. The rear length of CPVC prevents the spring from binding up against the walls of the plunger tube, giving the blaster a very smooth feel. The big bolt acts as priming bar for the pump grip (which is a short section of 1.5" thinwall PVC). The priming action is shockingly easy, even with a [k26] installed.
EDIT: Looks like this is basically a SNAP-2. Albeit, with many years of community improvements integrated into the basic design.
A [k26] powers the pictured blaster, with a 7 inch draw length (bringing the spring close to full compression). The cold weather is screwing up my dart fit, so I was only able to get it to fire 85 feet with a 10-shot hopper. It ought to clear 100 feet easily with proper dart fit. The whole blaster is very long, but is not at all ungainly.
EDIT: It does, indeed clear 100ft with proper dart fit, and a 10-shot hopper. Very nice.
The spring sits behind the catch, and a PVC cap with a 5/8" hole acts as a stop. The rear length of CPVC prevents the spring from binding up against the walls of the plunger tube, giving the blaster a very smooth feel. The big bolt acts as priming bar for the pump grip (which is a short section of 1.5" thinwall PVC). The priming action is shockingly easy, even with a [k26] installed.
#274610 Homemades Picture Thread
Posted by
on 12 May 2010 - 05:11 PM
in
Homemades
My +bow in it's current incarnation. Originally commissioned from Ryan. The stock butt was made by hipponator. The aluminum sideplates and plunger rod were made by louiec3. The aluminum is awesome, it gives the frame a lot of rigidity.
#335504 Game Types and Rules for Nerf Wars
Posted by
on 17 November 2013 - 10:39 AM
in
General Nerf
What makes game types like Defend the Core or Carpe work is that there is no special effort required by the players to keep track of the game state - the scoring system is integrated into the game (darts in the core, balls in the bucket).
Rules like these are problematic:
..because someone needs to actively keep track of stuff. You can't have these "if such and such condition is met, then that team gets one second off their re-spawn time" rules. If you look through all the tried-and-tested game types in the OP, you'll see that none of them require that the players keep track of anything beyond "how many flags have we captured?" or "how many lives do I have left?".
Again, the core concept is not bad. You just need to come up with a way that players can easily tell which points are controlled. Here's where you could make some sort of game prop to mark it - maybe something like a dueling tree, that players would have to manually flip around to indicate that their team controls the point.
Rules like these are problematic:
- To capture a point, a team (1+) must count aloud to 5 and be next to a single point. (There must be some way to display which team has the point)
- For each point captured, that team gets one second (possibly two) off their re-spawn time.
..because someone needs to actively keep track of stuff. You can't have these "if such and such condition is met, then that team gets one second off their re-spawn time" rules. If you look through all the tried-and-tested game types in the OP, you'll see that none of them require that the players keep track of anything beyond "how many flags have we captured?" or "how many lives do I have left?".
Again, the core concept is not bad. You just need to come up with a way that players can easily tell which points are controlled. Here's where you could make some sort of game prop to mark it - maybe something like a dueling tree, that players would have to manually flip around to indicate that their team controls the point.
#312848 Game Types and Rules for Nerf Wars
Posted by
on 14 March 2012 - 05:05 PM
in
General Nerf
Bomb Push
Variation of CTF
- Played with single flag.
- Each team has a 'base'.
- If the flag can be put in the opponent's 'base', the opponents lose (or have a point scored against them.)
tertiary
We played a game type very much like this one quite often in Minnesota, and it was a lot of fun (we called it "Football"). To elaborate:
BOMBING RUN (or FOOTBALL)
Single flag assault CTF
Primary or Secondary?: Secondary
People: At least 6, but more is better.
Field: Symmetric, indoor or outdoor. It should be fairly large, or else games end far too suddenly.
Rules:
- Two teams. Each has base, which is where the opposing team tries to plant the flag. They also have a spawn point (or multiple spawn points).
- One flag, which begins the game in the middle of the field. The objective is to plant this flag in the enemy team's base. If hit, you drop the flag where you were hit.
- When you are hit, run back to your spawn point and re-spawn immediately. Each team's spawn point needs to be quite far away from the flag planting base.
- Can be played either with a point limit, or a timer. It is somewhat easier to score in this game than traditional CTF, so games go faster.
#312173 Game Types and Rules for Nerf Wars
Posted by
on 01 March 2012 - 07:23 AM
in
General Nerf
I think that's kind of the point.To be frank I'm hesitant to include blob-games, which seem inherently unbalanced, and super easy to unbalance quickly.
#311964 Game Types and Rules for Nerf Wars
Posted by
on 27 February 2012 - 04:13 PM
in
General Nerf
Right, here's the Minnesota contribution:
WINGMAN
A Gunslinger variant. The main difference is that you can rescue your teammate from hell.
Primary or Secondary?: Secondary
People: An even number.
Field: You can use any type of field.
Rules:
VIP DEATHMATCH
Meatgrinder-esque deathmatch with a purpose
Primary or Secondary?: Secondary
People: Any number, though it might required tweaking if very few or very many are playing
Field: You can use any type of field.
Rules:
WINGMAN
A Gunslinger variant. The main difference is that you can rescue your teammate from hell.
Primary or Secondary?: Secondary
People: An even number.
Field: You can use any type of field.
Rules:
- Teams of two.
- Heaven: If you are hit, you are sent to Purgatory. If you hit anyone else, all you get is the satisfaction of a job well done, and that's it. You essentially have two hits left if you are in Heaven.
- Purgatory: If you are hit, you are cast into Hell. If you hit anyone else, you ascend into Heaven. You essentially have one hit left if you are in Purgatory.
- Hell: You may not shoot, you do not take hits. If your wingman lands a hit, you ascend into Purgatory (your teammate does not gain a life).
- If both of you end up in hell, your team is eliminated.
- For a faster-paced game, start everyone in Purgatory.
- This is usually a pistols round, but you can also play with primaries.
- You can use flagging tape if you want, but we never did.
VIP DEATHMATCH
Meatgrinder-esque deathmatch with a purpose
Primary or Secondary?: Secondary
People: Any number, though it might required tweaking if very few or very many are playing
Field: You can use any type of field.
Rules:
- Two teams.
- Each team designates a VIP. The VIP can carry any type of equipment or blaster that he wants.
- Your team scores by hitting the enemy VIP. The VIP has a 5 second respawn. The VIP *can* run away while he is counting in, but he must hold his hand up or otherwise indicate when he is back in the game.
- Regular players have a 15 second respawn and unlimited lives.
- A timed game (5-30 minutes), where you score the game based on how many times you hit the VIP. Make sure you keep track of the number of hits.
- Give the VIP limited lives. This is a simple solution.
#217146 +bow: Diy Thread
Posted by
on 09 March 2009 - 04:46 PM
in
Homemades
Yum. Looking forward to seeing that in person.
#307913 +bow: Diy Thread
Posted by
on 29 November 2011 - 07:52 PM
in
Homemades
You can improvise with the plunger tube, I've seen lots of different stuff used. If the plunger tube you use ends up being too "fat" (OD too large), you can just add some washers in between pieces to act as spacers. You can also build a plunger head using rubber washers, similar to how SNAPs are build. But try to track down that nylon plunger rod - that's a fairly critical piece.
#239428 +bow: Diy Thread
Posted by
on 30 June 2009 - 02:22 PM
in
Homemades
What's your point? Yes, it has a lot of dead space by necessity. But it still gets long enough ranges to be functional in a war.*breaks out in song* That gun has a lot of deeaaddd space! That gun has a lot of deaaad space..
Too much dead space there.
#315927 Where To Buy Modding Materials
Posted by
on 20 May 2012 - 09:50 PM
in
Modifications
Hey, I'm looking a barrel material that fits over cpvc well. Not too loose, but not too snug. I poked around at my local Lowe's and couldn't find anything. I've heard SCH 20 pvc works, but have to clue where to find it. Would this work, and is it possible to find in-store?
Electrical conduit sometimes works. Bring a stub of CPVC to the store and test sections of it - the tolerances are very sloppy, and so sometimes you can find a batch which works.
