Like on my TTG mod, a new barrel gives a tighter fit around the barrel, so more pressure can build. Pressure is the one thing that makes nerf guns work, and in the old barrels some of the pressure is lost because it escapes around the dart.

Replacing the barrel is about the cheapest thing you can do to it, a 10 foot thing of PVC only costs 3.00.

Well, for the short life me recon lived it worked fine. The plunger never broke for me. I don't know why it is breaking but you might want to try putting something like foam to pad the plunger when it hits the barrel. Thats the problem with inverted plungers, the back directly hits the barrel. Thats not normally a problem since the AR in the recon acts like a pad, making the plunger slow down before it hits the barrel, but with out it the barrel takes the full force of the spring.

Edit: KingCosmo7 beat me to it.

Yes, I have one. as far as I can tell all they did was get rid of the dead space in the plunger and make it smaller. All you have to do is cut off the black part that come out the back of the gun to make a spring add-on work. I think this could work to our advantage if you make that cap longer and then stick a spring in there. Then you don't need the stock always attached.

Heres a thought, why don't you just open the gun up?

Just go get a NF, the chances that you can break it by opening it up are very slim.

In theory you could just drill down the end of the barrel to get the AR out on most guns if you really want to but you have a better chance of messing up if you do that, you could punch a hole in the side of the barrel.

I broke my recon a while back. I was thinking about buying another one, and doing the same mods with some more I thought of but then the vulcan came out. I'm just saving up my money until I can get it, which may take a while since I have marching band camp all next week.

on topic:

It's a good little write up, bigger pictures could be nice, but I can understand what you did here with these ones, good job!

That happened on my target tech. I just cut through the gun to the screw with a hack saw, but you might not be able to do that.

Out of the box, mine couldn't even push a dart out of the barrel. After I brassed it, it only got 2 ft. Your lucky yours even fires...

now that sounds promising...

[/joke]

um, is the air diverted through all three barrels? if so, it could be that you are using one barrel and most of the air escapes through the other ones.

looks awesome! and great job explaining how to do it!

Thanks!

Nice job but please get measured ranges. Anyways welcome to the haven.

ya, I just never got the change to test flat ranges. sorry.

Thats cool! I don't think I will open up my vulcan as there is really no point to yet(AR removal as not proven to help the gun). the only big mod I might do is a PETG barrel mod to the chain. My theory is that the PETG will be lighter then the plastic used to be there, making the entire chain lighter. as it seems, If I used brass in the barrel it would be to heavy for the gun to pull up.

Hmm, it's cool, but it kinda limits the RFR since you can't put a mag into it any more, just breach load it, but what ever. I would do this but my RFR broke.

Seriously, you guys are speculating. The battery pack is too far away to hit the gears, and is held in place by a screw in hatch. The battery pack leads are held in a good six inches down towards the front of the gun, by a metal place sandwiched in plastic. The wires themselves are held in by small melted folds of plastic, like in the Firefly.

FA, it does in fact help line up the gun when closing it, as it is at one of the, if not the, thickest points on the blaster. I doubt that it would be for that though. A Chinese factory worker will probably get pretty good at closing it up after the 5th time, it's not that hard.

Ok, I don't own a vulcan(i need more money!) so I did not know, and by that picture I though that it might hold the battery pack.

Looks good.

One thing though, thats CPVC not PVC look at your own photo.
I got the same exact thing confused in my first write-up.

Notice it says CPVC on the pipe.

Lol your right! I never noticed. I don't think Home Depot noticed aether, it said PVC on the price tag.

One question I have in mind is...

What function does this piece serve?

Maybe it holds the battery pack in place so it does not hit the gears? Just a thought...

As Jabulus said, please don't post angled ranges. They are next to if not worthless. Also, please fix your capitalization. I've been noticing a lack of that sort of thing and it's getting to be rather annoying.

Ok, sorry.

Pretty clear write up. A decent first post. It has been done before but you explained pretty well. And I've never heard of the fake barrel over it, but it makes it look clean so you did do well there.

One big thing though: You have to fix the grammar. Capitalize what needs to be capitalized and so forth. Use the correct form of "You're," especially in the big bold spot at the bottom. It looks really bad, and when it's cleaned up it help with coherency and understanding what you're trying to say.

I'm not sure that the link to the instructable is needed if you posted the write up also.

Oh, you have to be 18 to buy plumber's goop because, just like spray paint, the fumes can get you as high as a kite.

Edit: Welcome to the Haven. You're already one of the better new members in my book.

Ok, thank you!

Ya, sorry about the there being some grammer issues with this write-up. I will fix them.

Not to bash you on anything, I'm a newbie too, but don't post angled measurements. You will get flamed so bad if you do that. Either post flat ranges, or no ranges at all. I believe I read that somewhere (new member guide maybe?).

ok, thanks. i am guessing it gets 80 feet flat. i put that up as a estimate untill i get real flat measurments.

Well, first off, hi, I'm new here, and just got my posting privileges.:-)

I thought I would start with a bang, so I am posting a write up on my target tech mod. Instructions can be found here


But anyway, here it is!



Besides the fact I like how it looks, It packs a punch! 107 feet angled and probably around 80 feet flat.

Now, I glued the orange barrel on the front of the gun, so I can't open up the real gun, but I happened to have a spare target tech, so I will post the write up on it.

STEP ONE:

Now, Your probably wondering what all is in this gun. Here is the complete list of pieces used in the gun(with prices)

PVC: 3.00 $(10 foot long pipe)
"GOOP" glue: 3.00(I think)(Can you believe that you have to be 18 or older to buy this glue?!!?)
second spring: 6.00?(Depends on were you get the spring, I used one I had lying around, but the one from a NERF Nitefinder would also work)

All that is cheap, expect for the one odd part I used, the fake barrel from the stupid NERF Longshot pistol attachment. You could use coupler PVC in place of it, that would be cheaper. Unless you really want this thing I would used the CPVC because it would be cheaper(3.00 as apposed to 30.00)

But, if you also want a long shot then I would recommended doing a sidearm integration to your long shot, as you will have the barrel left over to use here.

One thing I forgot to add in was the gun! I used a Target Tech. I would go on ebay to get it, as you have to buy it with a NERF Target(hence the name) which makes the gun cost around 15.00$, you could also find a lone pistol from the long shot on ebay for around 6.00 making it cheaper.

If you buy everything from a store including buying the entire long shot it will cost 57.00(not including tax).

If your willing to blow 57.00 on a gun then lets go for it!

STEP TWO: OPEN EVERYTHING

First take apart the long shot pistol and salvage the fake barrel(top one that the long shot shot through), then take apart the Nitefinder and salvage the spring.

Now, put all the back togeather so not to confuse screws. Then finally take apart the Target Tech. Throw the barrel away down to the air restricter plate.(second picture). Now just remove the air restrictor(spring + spiky thinging, can't miss it).



Now be careful on the next one, You don't want to lose anything. Pay attention to were that little spring lands as it resets the trigger.



You should have this now(minus the PVC and front barrel)



STEP THREE: ADD A SPRING

Now, take apart the plunger and unscrew the end cap(part with the O-ring)



Now take out the spring and mesh the NF spring with this one. Then put it back togeather

STEP FOUR: ADD A NEW BARREL


This is the hard part(If you call it hard). First take out the restrictor plate. Rip the peg off and punch out the center.

Then cut a around 5 IN long piece of PVC. Then take the LS barrel extention piece and cut it 1/4 inch longer then the PVC. Then set that aside for later.



Now, take the PVC and push it over the AR plate. It is a tight fight but you can do it, then glue it on there.



Now glue the long shots barrel over that.



Now take the last piece of the barrel and glue it on to the rest of it



You're done with that!

STEP FIVE: REPLACE THE AMMO HOLDERS WITH PVC

Just glue PVC in there. To get the look of the painted one cut the PVC flush with the gun.



OPTIONAL:PAINT

If you want it to look like the first picture paint it.

I used model paints, I covered the orange with painters tape as not to get paint on those parts.



I should have sprayed a sealant on it because you can see some noticeable were on the handle and parts held a lot.

EXTRA MODS

To get the most out of it I would put a rubber band on the plunger.

I also sanded the inside of the PVC used for the barrel so the darts slide out easier.

YOU'RE DONE

Just screw it back togeather and put some glue on the front to hold the long shot barrel perfectly straight(or at least close to it)

I get 80 feet flat so it is a worth wild mod if you have the parts, definitely a good sidearm to have in a nerf battle.