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Labeled Vulcan Internals + Faq

Complete Compilation of information

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#1 Split

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Posted 08 August 2008 - 04:33 PM

Internals:
Alright. Not all of the pictures are done, but the overall shot is.
I'm going to put up a few break away pictures since the gun is assembled in four layers. Here is the first layer:
Posted Image

And here is the key (it won't be posted in subsequent pictures; also, if you download these it will make it easier to view):
Posted Image

Here is a description of all of the parts, and basically how the gun works.
Internals Top Cover- This piece is held in by six screws, and the orange piece attached to the manual cocking mechanism (dark blue)
Internals bottom Cover - This is held into the shell of the Vulcan and spans the entire length of the internals up to the cogs. Both this and the top cover act as sliders, catches and holders for the rest of the internals.

Plunger Tube - Obviously the regular plunger tube. It is about 3/4" ID and has tabs on the sides of it that must be aligned correctly when reinstalled. These tabs are very important to the way the gun works when stock.
Plunger - The plunger itself has the teeth on it to be pulled back by the gear train. I consider the piece that slides into the internals bottom cover, holds the spring to the plunger head, and acts as a guide for the plunger rod as the same part as the plunger, as they cannot work without each other.

Manual Cocking mechanism - This piece is basically a track with a hole in it for the cocking handle. It pushes against the plunger in one direction, then is spring loaded to return. This entire mechanism can be completely removed without harm. This mechanism includes the orange cap that must be removed to remove the top internals cover. As this mechanism actuates the plunger, the plunger then actuates the next, very important part, the Sealing mechanism.
Sealing Mechanism - This is a complex mechanism. Basically, there is a paddle that is pushed by the plunger when it moves back, despite whether it is done manually or electronically. This paddle moves around a pivot, and on the other side of the pivot are two arms. The first arm pushes the front, moving piece of the plunger tube to seal around the chain link. The second arm slides through the internals bottom cover and actuates a pin. This pin grabs onto a tab on the plunger tube and is then locked in place until the plunger is completely retracted.

Cogs - These are the pieces that you can see when the gun is closed up. They rotate and advance the chain.
Cog Spring - This spring keeps tension on the cogs from the front and allows the cogs to rotate without a shaft.
Rotator Catch - This wheel has bars on it that are grabbed by the Rotation arm mechanism that force it to turn, and then turn the cogs to advance the chain.
Rotation arm Mechanism - This bar is also complex. On the far right end, it has teeth that are pulled by the gear train and then let go at a certain point, in the same way that the plunger is actuated electronically. On the other end, it has a spring loaded triangle that moves around a tiny pin. When the Arm is forward, the triangle flicks down. When it is then pulled back, the triangle catches on the bars on the Rotator Catch. As the Arm moves back more and more, the rotator catch turns more and more. Once it gets to full pull, the chain is halfway advanced, the plunger tube has sealed around the chain, and the plunger is fully cocked. Then the blaster fires, and the plunger is release, unsealing the plunger head with the chain, and moving the rotator arm forward. It is then in its original position.

Motor and Circuit - This is obviously the motor that drives the automatic firing sequence. It has a circuit on top, but I'm unsure of it's exact function. It could be as simple as a regulator, or as complex as a stepper circuit that slowly increments the voltage to the motor as to avoid damage to it.
Gear train cover - This cover attaches to the Internals Bottom cover via three screws. It houses two pins. The top pin has a nylon spacer on it that guides the plunger as it moves. The bottom pin is that of the gear train. This cover is absolutely necessary.

Hatch switch- This switch cuts off power to the Motor circuit if it's not depressed. It is only depressed when there is a chain loaded and the hatch is closed. Removing this switch does not affect the operation of the blaster, as it is just a safety mechanism. There may be no need to remove it however if you plan to continue using the chain system.


FAQ
I have received many good questions about the Vulcan, and through several different threads we have come up with many good ideas. This is not a spot for modifications. That's why we have the directory.

Question:
I believe I messed up the timing on my Vulcan. Do you remember or have any pictures of it's original state that might help me put the gears in the right position?

My answer:
The Vulcan has an easy timing reset mechanism. Just push the gear train (what you called a cassette) down along its shaft until it clicks and locks in that position. There's a bump on the plunger that hits another piece to unlock the gear train at just the right point to set the whole timing perfectly. Pretty ingenious if you ask me. Then you need to fire it electronically once. The gears should come to rest where they need to be.

Question:
There is a cassette like piece toward the rear of the weapon just above and behind the motor. It has three tiers of gear teeth the top two being only half the circumference of the cassette. Id like to know what position the half gears are in when the mechanisms are at rest.

My answer:
I've been referring to this piece as the gear train. This can be in any position when the blaster is "at rest" as long as no teeth from the gear train are meshing with any teeth from either the plunger or the Rotation Arm Mechanism. So basically, the teeth on the gear train need to be pointing down.

Question:
Should I remove the air restrictor from my Vulcan? I read in several places that it doesn't help ranges at all.

My answer:
We have discussed this in several threads, but I feel that it was most predominant in my original thread (which can be found through the Modification Directory). My conclusion was as follows:

Keep the AR in. If it doesn't affect ranges, it can't hurt, right? It wouldn't actually help [to remove it] in this case. I have a theory that the two prong AR has something to do with holding the links of the chain, but I'm far from sure on this one. Too late for me anyway. But the pros of leaving it in would be stopping sand [from entering the plunger tube - a major problem I had], more cushion for impact [of the plunger hitting the plunger tube], helping against dry fires and misfires, and potentially a more consistent firing, if my theory is true.

We have also considered drilling small holes in the AR and its holder so that it allows more airflow while still yielding the benefits mentioned above. This is a very feasible idea and I would love to see it done.

Question:
I have decided to remove my air restrictor, how should I do it? Drill it out?

My answer:
This has come up a few times. It is a pain to drill it out. The AR is bigger than the opening through which you would have to drill it, and therefore you would also need to break it into pieces and then remove those pieces with pliers. I recommend you follow my write up found in the Directory.

Question:
What's the benefit of removing the pegs from the chains? It seems like a lot of work.

My answer:
While there may be an increase in range, it is extremely slight, and basically negligible. The main benefit is adding the ability to use Stefans, which have their own obvious benefits (cost, aerodynamics, proper weights).

It's really not that much work, as long as your tool has a sharp blade. I recommend a Utility knife with a fresh blade.

Question:
I've started tinkering with the Vulcan and one of the problems I see is the weakness of the motor (lack of torque). Does your motor have any problem pulling back the stronger Longshot spring [reference is to my Vulcan Overhaul]? Any gear slipping at all? Thanks.

My answer:
Not at all. Not even with just 7.2V.

Question:
My plunger tube head moves forward to seal with the chain, but it doesn't lock there.

My answer:
You have something installed wrong. The plunger tube must be installed with the little square on the inside, and the piece that has the AR with the flat piece down.

Question:
Can I pull the chain through the cogs?

My answer:
Yes, and without damaging anything. The rotation mechanism acts just like a turret and has the safety to allow it to rotate independently of the rotation mechanism arm.

~~~~End FAQ~~~~

If anyone has any questions on function or maintenance on the Vulcan, feel free to PM them to me. If I deem it worthy, I will gladly add them to this FAQ section.

Edited by Splitlip, 07 September 2008 - 03:53 PM.

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#2 zach attack

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Posted 08 August 2008 - 04:35 PM

great job splitlip, this will be great for anybody attempting to mod this beast
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#3 futureseal

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Posted 08 August 2008 - 04:36 PM

This will be very useful for when I mod my vulcan. Props, Splitlip.
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#4 trogdor65

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Posted 08 August 2008 - 04:44 PM

Good job. This will definitely help everyone a bunch.
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#5 Uncle Hammer

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Posted 08 August 2008 - 05:01 PM

I'm colorblind! :P
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#6 NerfCrazy

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Posted 08 August 2008 - 06:42 PM

Nice job I will use this when modding my vulcan.
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#7 MrDelish

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Posted 08 August 2008 - 07:57 PM

A question: how do you take off the ammo box once you've put it on? Is it just a gentle pull until it comes out, or something else?
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#8 Split

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Posted 08 August 2008 - 08:00 PM

Yeah. Open the hatch and just pull on it. Theres a little spring loaded catch that holds it on.
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#9 MrDelish

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Posted 08 August 2008 - 08:13 PM

So, without the box the rotator seems to have trouble getting the next casing/dart ready to fire (when firing manually, anyway).
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#10 Captain

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Posted 08 August 2008 - 08:23 PM

The pictures aren't working for me.

Oh, and MrDelish, my vulcan also has some trouble with advancing on single shot when the box is removed. That's why I always use the box.

Edited by Captain, 08 August 2008 - 08:23 PM.

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#11 Lion

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Posted 08 August 2008 - 08:27 PM

Thank you so much as i'm about to crack the one i got yesterday open to do a "Vulcan cannon" mod to it
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#12 Split

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Posted 08 August 2008 - 08:56 PM

I'll go more into this later, but the reason behind this phenomena is simple. The cogs have a mechanism built into them that makes them almost exactly like an Firefly turret. You can manually turn it, or let the mechanism turn it. But most importantly, if it gets held in place while it's trying to rotate, it just skips that rotation. It does this in order to avoid putting too much stress on any parts internally. The Maverick works like this too I think, but I'm not sure because I haven't touched one in months. The force that's holding the Vulcan's cogs in place is the weight of the chains in this case. When the box is there, it holds the weight. When it's not, the cogs have to move the entire length of chain (or at least however much you're not holding).
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#13 Brunta

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Posted 09 August 2008 - 08:07 AM

Nice work. This is going to help a lot of people, including me.
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#14 dsman195276

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Posted 09 August 2008 - 10:16 AM

Thats cool! I don't think I will open up my vulcan as there is really no point to yet(AR removal as not proven to help the gun). the only big mod I might do is a PETG barrel mod to the chain. My theory is that the PETG will be lighter then the plastic used to be there, making the entire chain lighter. as it seems, If I used brass in the barrel it would be to heavy for the gun to pull up.
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#15 eddieoctane

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Posted 09 August 2008 - 12:49 PM

Props on that photo. It's nice to know what you should be looking at before you open a gun and send springs halfway across the room.

Do you mind if I link the image on the forum for the urban gaming club at Penn State? They use erf guns for games like HvZ and Assassins and this would be helpful.
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#16 Split

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Posted 09 August 2008 - 01:10 PM

Props on that photo. It's nice to know what you should be looking at before you open a gun and send springs halfway across the room.

Do you mind if I link the image on the forum for the urban gaming club at Penn State? They use erf guns for games like HvZ and Assassins and this would be helpful.


No don't link it. You can download it and host it yourself, just make sure that credit still goes to me. It took 3.5 hours just getting the key and first pic up, just because I wanted to make it so I could easily transfer the masks to the other pics.
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#17 Draconis

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Posted 11 August 2008 - 06:31 PM

I'll go more into this later, but the reason behind this phenomena is simple. The cogs have a mechanism built into them that makes them almost exactly like an Firefly turret. You can manually turn it, or let the mechanism turn it. But most importantly, if it gets held in place while it's trying to rotate, it just skips that rotation. It does this in order to avoid putting too much stress on any parts internally. The Maverick works like this too I think, but I'm not sure because I haven't touched one in months. The force that's holding the Vulcan's cogs in place is the weight of the chains in this case. When the box is there, it holds the weight. When it's not, the cogs have to move the entire length of chain (or at least however much you're not holding).



This is one reason that I had planned on making a circular chain. The whole chain can hang down, and the section on the right applies as much force as the section to the left. That way, the mechanism (and motor) only need to overcome the force of rotating the mass of the chain, versus the rotation and the mass of the remainder of the unspent belt. I think that will drastically reduce the misfiring that I've experienced. I may just add snaps or some other non-permanent connectors to the ends, hopefully allowing this to work with a full 50 round chain.
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#18 Split

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Posted 12 August 2008 - 11:24 AM

This is one reason that I had planned on making a circular chain. The whole chain can hang down, and the section on the right applies as much force as the section to the left. That way, the mechanism (and motor) only need to overcome the force of rotating the mass of the chain, versus the rotation and the mass of the remainder of the unspent belt. I think that will drastically reduce the misfiring that I've experienced. I may just add snaps or some other non-permanent connectors to the ends, hopefully allowing this to work with a full 50 round chain.


I had that idea too. It was even better actually. Make the chain 15 rounds (fits perfectly around the front of the gun where the cogs are). Attach a rod from the plunger to a channel that's fed darts from somewhere. Line it up with the chain, and it will feed a dart into the empty link just as fast as you can fire. This was my first version of the "infinity drive" for the Vulcan. It would fire infinitely or until you were out of ammo (not just loaded ammo like it is now).

But then I figured, why even have the chain and all of the timing to get exactly right? Why not just remove it all and have whatever feeds in infinity drive feed a breech. Ta da. Much less hassle. It's what I'm working on right now. Hopper designs are tough with front heavy darts though.
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#19 Split

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Posted 20 August 2008 - 12:29 PM

Bump. I added a ton of information on the functions of the gun, and an entire FAQ section. I'd like this to be readily available to whomever needs it.
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#20 Split

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Posted 04 September 2008 - 07:57 PM

Bump, edited and updated. Two new questions for the FAQ.
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#21 roboman

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Posted 04 September 2008 - 09:31 PM

How do I get that stupid hatch off of the gun itself?

EDIT: Never mind, I figured it out.

Edited by roboman, 04 September 2008 - 09:34 PM.

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#22 CaptainSlug

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Posted 04 September 2008 - 11:03 PM

Which part is the one that keeps breaking on people?
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#23 Split

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Posted 04 September 2008 - 11:09 PM

For me it was the rotation arm mechanism. The "broken" Vulcan I got from Doubleshot was just some wrong part installation, and the same goes for some people that I've helped over PMs. I'm curious about what happened to Badger's though.
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#24 HugoChillingsworth

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Posted 01 October 2008 - 08:26 PM

Thanks for creating a well written and clear guide to the Vulcan, great job.
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#25 ShadowFire

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Posted 01 October 2008 - 10:09 PM

I'll go more into this later, but the reason behind this phenomena is simple. The cogs have a mechanism built into them that makes them almost exactly like an Firefly turret. You can manually turn it, or let the mechanism turn it. But most importantly, if it gets held in place while it's trying to rotate, it just skips that rotation. It does this in order to avoid putting too much stress on any parts internally. The Maverick works like this too I think, but I'm not sure because I haven't touched one in months. The force that's holding the Vulcan's cogs in place is the weight of the chains in this case. When the box is there, it holds the weight. When it's not, the cogs have to move the entire length of chain (or at least however much you're not holding).


It will also do this if there is nobody catching your multi linked belts.
It is why I keep mine 25 round.

Using the tip of a spade bit larger than 1/2" is a quick way to take out the pegs of the belt.
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