Alright. Not all of the pictures are done, but the overall shot is.
I'm going to put up a few break away pictures since the gun is assembled in four layers. Here is the first layer:
And here is the key (it won't be posted in subsequent pictures; also, if you download these it will make it easier to view):
Here is a description of all of the parts, and basically how the gun works.
Internals Top Cover- This piece is held in by six screws, and the orange piece attached to the manual cocking mechanism (dark blue)
Internals bottom Cover - This is held into the shell of the Vulcan and spans the entire length of the internals up to the cogs. Both this and the top cover act as sliders, catches and holders for the rest of the internals.
Plunger Tube - Obviously the regular plunger tube. It is about 3/4" ID and has tabs on the sides of it that must be aligned correctly when reinstalled. These tabs are very important to the way the gun works when stock.
Plunger - The plunger itself has the teeth on it to be pulled back by the gear train. I consider the piece that slides into the internals bottom cover, holds the spring to the plunger head, and acts as a guide for the plunger rod as the same part as the plunger, as they cannot work without each other.
Manual Cocking mechanism - This piece is basically a track with a hole in it for the cocking handle. It pushes against the plunger in one direction, then is spring loaded to return. This entire mechanism can be completely removed without harm. This mechanism includes the orange cap that must be removed to remove the top internals cover. As this mechanism actuates the plunger, the plunger then actuates the next, very important part, the Sealing mechanism.
Sealing Mechanism - This is a complex mechanism. Basically, there is a paddle that is pushed by the plunger when it moves back, despite whether it is done manually or electronically. This paddle moves around a pivot, and on the other side of the pivot are two arms. The first arm pushes the front, moving piece of the plunger tube to seal around the chain link. The second arm slides through the internals bottom cover and actuates a pin. This pin grabs onto a tab on the plunger tube and is then locked in place until the plunger is completely retracted.
Cogs - These are the pieces that you can see when the gun is closed up. They rotate and advance the chain.
Cog Spring - This spring keeps tension on the cogs from the front and allows the cogs to rotate without a shaft.
Rotator Catch - This wheel has bars on it that are grabbed by the Rotation arm mechanism that force it to turn, and then turn the cogs to advance the chain.
Rotation arm Mechanism - This bar is also complex. On the far right end, it has teeth that are pulled by the gear train and then let go at a certain point, in the same way that the plunger is actuated electronically. On the other end, it has a spring loaded triangle that moves around a tiny pin. When the Arm is forward, the triangle flicks down. When it is then pulled back, the triangle catches on the bars on the Rotator Catch. As the Arm moves back more and more, the rotator catch turns more and more. Once it gets to full pull, the chain is halfway advanced, the plunger tube has sealed around the chain, and the plunger is fully cocked. Then the blaster fires, and the plunger is release, unsealing the plunger head with the chain, and moving the rotator arm forward. It is then in its original position.
Motor and Circuit - This is obviously the motor that drives the automatic firing sequence. It has a circuit on top, but I'm unsure of it's exact function. It could be as simple as a regulator, or as complex as a stepper circuit that slowly increments the voltage to the motor as to avoid damage to it.
Gear train cover - This cover attaches to the Internals Bottom cover via three screws. It houses two pins. The top pin has a nylon spacer on it that guides the plunger as it moves. The bottom pin is that of the gear train. This cover is absolutely necessary.
Hatch switch- This switch cuts off power to the Motor circuit if it's not depressed. It is only depressed when there is a chain loaded and the hatch is closed. Removing this switch does not affect the operation of the blaster, as it is just a safety mechanism. There may be no need to remove it however if you plan to continue using the chain system.
I have received many good questions about the Vulcan, and through several different threads we have come up with many good ideas. This is not a spot for modifications. That's why we have the directory.
I believe I messed up the timing on my Vulcan. Do you remember or have any pictures of it's original state that might help me put the gears in the right position?
The Vulcan has an easy timing reset mechanism. Just push the gear train (what you called a cassette) down along its shaft until it clicks and locks in that position. There's a bump on the plunger that hits another piece to unlock the gear train at just the right point to set the whole timing perfectly. Pretty ingenious if you ask me. Then you need to fire it electronically once. The gears should come to rest where they need to be.
There is a cassette like piece toward the rear of the weapon just above and behind the motor. It has three tiers of gear teeth the top two being only half the circumference of the cassette. Id like to know what position the half gears are in when the mechanisms are at rest.
I've been referring to this piece as the gear train. This can be in any position when the blaster is "at rest" as long as no teeth from the gear train are meshing with any teeth from either the plunger or the Rotation Arm Mechanism. So basically, the teeth on the gear train need to be pointing down.
Should I remove the air restrictor from my Vulcan? I read in several places that it doesn't help ranges at all.
We have discussed this in several threads, but I feel that it was most predominant in my original thread (which can be found through the Modification Directory). My conclusion was as follows:
We have also considered drilling small holes in the AR and its holder so that it allows more airflow while still yielding the benefits mentioned above. This is a very feasible idea and I would love to see it done.
Keep the AR in. If it doesn't affect ranges, it can't hurt, right? It wouldn't actually help [to remove it] in this case. I have a theory that the two prong AR has something to do with holding the links of the chain, but I'm far from sure on this one. Too late for me anyway. But the pros of leaving it in would be stopping sand [from entering the plunger tube - a major problem I had], more cushion for impact [of the plunger hitting the plunger tube], helping against dry fires and misfires, and potentially a more consistent firing, if my theory is true.
I have decided to remove my air restrictor, how should I do it? Drill it out?
This has come up a few times. It is a pain to drill it out. The AR is bigger than the opening through which you would have to drill it, and therefore you would also need to break it into pieces and then remove those pieces with pliers. I recommend you follow my write up found in the Directory.
What's the benefit of removing the pegs from the chains? It seems like a lot of work.
While there may be an increase in range, it is extremely slight, and basically negligible. The main benefit is adding the ability to use Stefans, which have their own obvious benefits (cost, aerodynamics, proper weights).
It's really not that much work, as long as your tool has a sharp blade. I recommend a Utility knife with a fresh blade.
I've started tinkering with the Vulcan and one of the problems I see is the weakness of the motor (lack of torque). Does your motor have any problem pulling back the stronger Longshot spring [reference is to my Vulcan Overhaul]? Any gear slipping at all? Thanks.
Not at all. Not even with just 7.2V.
My plunger tube head moves forward to seal with the chain, but it doesn't lock there.
You have something installed wrong. The plunger tube must be installed with the little square on the inside, and the piece that has the AR with the flat piece down.
Can I pull the chain through the cogs?
Yes, and without damaging anything. The rotation mechanism acts just like a turret and has the safety to allow it to rotate independently of the rotation mechanism arm.
If anyone has any questions on function or maintenance on the Vulcan, feel free to PM them to me. If I deem it worthy, I will gladly add them to this FAQ section.
Edited by Splitlip, 07 September 2008 - 03:53 PM.