This is my modified ERTL Pump Action Shotgun. Pictured with a Shotblast stock with a CPVC stock block so I can prime it against the stock (still need to paint it to match), and a PETG speedloader. This was originally the K9 Special and I was given it to refurb (it was in pretty bad shape). It has the LS, [k25] and stock springs which are giving a lot of power (estimate 90-100ft flat with domes) and the seal is pretty good. 90/95%? Many parts are reinforced so it won't break anytime soon. This was my first paintjob and it taught me a lot about spray painting that I can use on later projects, even though it didn't turn out that well. I used vinyl dye and krylon fusion with a krylon clearcoat.

Sooooo, the Orange mod works white lithium grease will be ok for my Longshot? I just want to be 100% sure, since I don't want to be breaking the blaster that I've grown so fond of.
Also, when you guys refer to Superlube, are you talking about their synthetic grease, or their silicone lubricant? Both of then should be safe right?

There can't be much difference between different brands of 100% white lithium grease. And I was referring to the synthetic grease with PTFE. 

I have looked into Superlube, but it's really expensive up here in Canada, and none of the stores in my area have it in stock. It looks like I'm stuck with the Moen grease...
Also, what about instrument slide grease? Has anyone tried that?

 

You can buy Superlube at Home Depot and on Amazon up here in Canada. White lithium grease in general should be fine, people have been using that for years with no negative effects. Canadian Tire also sells white lithium grease, although I haven't tried it on nerf blasters yet. It's in the Auto section. 

I was looking for clear pvc, and found 2" on amazon but they are out of stock. Is there any other sites I can order from that ship to Canada?

Contact Curly if it's for sale on McMaster as he has offered to act as a middleman for McMaster sales to Canada, for a very, very modest fee.

.What came out first RSCB o hopper mag
 
.What is better (in your opinion) RSCB or Hopper mag

RSCB was first, but hoppers are a superior design (auto-feed with gravity, less dead space)

What would be he dimensions for wye?

1/2"

Does the solvent weld take forever to dry?

I am going to assume this is not the type of event I can bring my modded Stryfe that shoots only stock darts? Even if I bring enough darts for the whole day?

No it isn't, to be competitive bring a hoppered homemade or something with similar power like a 4b, whatever you use needs to fire stefans. However as the OP says there will be superstock rounds so your stryfe will be great for those.

This looks good. One question though. Why is difficulty scored higher if it is higher? That category should maybe be called "complexity" instead, as difficulty implies how easy it would be for someone to replicate it, in which case a higher score should be awarded the simpler it is. 

The MCS rounds a lot of people are hating in. But what darts allow you to maintain velocity, range and accuracy consistantly in windy, rainy situations? Or generally clear weather at 100ft+ ? Also Elites (Stream or Whistler) in a Centurion are actually dangerous. They not only bruise skin, but break the surface (draw blood). So not going to happen that they allow the blaster to be compatible with existing darts.

And try bandoliering or tac vesting these "awesome" new clips. Large ammo is cool, but in my mind it's limited to arrows and balls. And no modding potential for conversion to the darts all modders already have? Thanks Hasbro for "putting modders first". Was this the awesome new line we were supposed to go "WOOOHH" over? If so, then wow. I waited forever for this? Well, at least now airsoft haters can't say nerf can't hurt. I'll stick with my longshots, thank you very much.

you put it that way it's bigger than Chuck Norris's dick.

No such thing exists.

But seriously, if you downgrade the spring power enough and make it shoot micros, this could be pretty cool. As well as remove the bipod. I don't care how high tech it is, it's going.

Bro, please stop making these kinds of posts. They're common sense and you're just clogging up the homepage.


USER WAS WARNED FOR META-COMMENTARY ON HIS OWN POST

You're full of it. This is a helpful post for many people.

In other news, great submission.

Maybe it's possible to build extra screw ports into the model for the purpose of attaching the segments together securely? My idea was to have one horizontal and one vertical port per segment for this. Once you've printed and bolted together the segments, you could use some resin in some places to really lock it together although I doubt you'd need to at that point. The ports would be designed to hold longer, coarser threaded screws than the ones that hold the shell together (since you'd never need/want to take them out anyway). It might also be a good idea to make a slightly larger version that has more draw. 

Interesting note is ACC darts are actually Artifact's first product (explaining the similarity with artifact darts). At this point, some people say cut down ACCs are better than artifact darts, although artifact is apparently fixing the issues with the first gen of his darts so they may be easier and better eventually.

What type of dart would you recommend for a Rapidstrike with three 180s and a BSUK wiring and switch kit? I just ordered a 100pc set of Koosh Gen 3s.

Koosh but replace the "rifled" barrel with one from an old school n strike blaster like the longshot frontgun or something (otherwise the kooshes go wild because the heads catch on the "rifling"). Also, I believe the weight distribution is massively improved when you cut the ACCs down. This seems to be the reason why they are so much better that way. 

The strange thing is that i got 240 fps quite consistently with elite darts and a pvc barrel in which the darts could move freely on my 4B without the oprv plugged, how would you explain that? Now i am using cut down fvjs and it seems to be very accurate.
Edit: you were right, i thought the velocities were consistent but now i think about it they were varying in the precise way that you described. Still, cut down fvjs seem to be very accurate.

Elite darts are lighter and so will go faster but spiral out of control quickly and depending on how tight the barrel is will split open. Check out zaurko's video on how people fake fps claims using blanks (pieces of FBR with no weights, the lightest thing you can fire) if you want some more explanation of this. I believe range and accuracy are better indicators of a blaster's performance because of this.

Thanks.
The barrel i am using at the moment is pvc and being sold as 5/8" when i put a dart in it is not snug but can move freely although you almost cant see past the dart through the tube. Is that ok? Or should it grip my darts tighter?

5/8" ID or OD? You usually need approx 1/2" ID (although some barrels are slightly different like brass and PETG)

I won't add the TaoBao links as it takes a lot and may be too confusing for some people
I am also thinking about adding dart info into a seperate thread so you only see buy links here, than you can read about the community inputted info and buy links would be here. 

Could you add the links to the taobao link directory? Just put them into a reply and I'll copy paste them into the main post.

Has anyone had any luck finding the gen 2 ACC/Nipple/Chunlin darts? I've heard good things about them.

Yeah, I bought some from the seller amazingbox on eBay.

No not at all I love ACC darts just pointing out that I learned the hard way that they do not like flywheels   and koosh darts are good for any flywheels unless you have a flywheel gun with that "rifling" since it seems to catch the head of koosh darts and make everything terrible (so in other words you need to remove that "rifling" or sand it down to use koosh darts but it is worth it and should be done)

To fix the "rifling" get an old n strike barrel (frontgun works well since its long and useless) and cut it down to the same size as the original barrel. The ODs are the same so they just slot in.

Found 'em.

http://www.buychina....mb-xxupmmoqmpnk

That's still taobao, just through an english agent. Easier to read the listing, though.

Didn't ACnerfshop do this a few years ago? Here's their video dated to April 7 2011  . Looks really cool though. Not my cup of tea, but I respect good design and workmanship when I see it. 

Hi,
Thanks for writing this up. My boys and I are modifying some nerf guns and we are using this guide to mod two Longshots.
 
Question:
What size tube are people using for the barrel with this mod?  I thought that we were supposed to use 17/32" tube, however, the Elite Darts barely fit inside a 17/32" tube. The fit is so tight that I can't blow the dart through the tube with a strong puff from my mouth. Is this right?
 
Is this normal?  When I put this gun together will the spring build up enough pressure to blow the dart down the full length of the barrel.
 
To remedy this I was thinking of using 9/16" for the barrel and using a short section of 17/32" at the rear of the barrel to receive the dart, but I haven't seen a guide that does that so I'm wondering if I'm doing something wrong.

Use 9/16 brass with tightening rings. Use a pipe cutter and lightly go around the pipe at the front a few times until there are indents but the pipe is not cut (use search function to get more info)

 

What ranges would you get from a one foot brass barrel compared to a standard barrel?

 

What do you mean by standard barrel? Barrel length and dart fit vary wildly as well, You could get completely different ranges in two different longshots depending on dart fit in the brass or spring load.  

Before I went on hiatus from Nerf entirely one thing I was considering doing was making a rifle stock duplicating router.

Do you know how much this would cost? And how does it work? 

It's more expensive, but you could have it cnc'd out of something more sturdy.

Is ABS Plastic an option with this? We could also possibly have crossbow shells and tornado shells mass produced with injection molded ABS. Exact copies with slight tweaks to the logos so as to avoid any possible copyright issues could be right around the corner for $20 plus shipping.

So what I get out of this is it is now possible to 3D Print these shells? Someone scan a crossbow!

I think Drac painted a crossbow white and sent it out to to get scanned a little while back.So maybe we'll get crossbow shells too.

He never heard anything back from the guy he sent it to. Pretty much just lost a crossbow shell forever.

Considering Hasbro makes their shells out of ABS, yes it would be an option, but injection molding will be so far out of reach, cost wise, for anything any of us modders would ever want to do. Having to make new tooling means it just isn't economical for small runs. CNC milling it could work, but is incredibly wasteful, and buying stock large enough to mill out an entire shell half is prohibitively expensive also. Buying an actual crossbow would be way cheaper.

In all reality, additive manufacturing (like 3D printing) is the only method that makes any sense for us from a cost standpoint. All other methods either have too large an upfront cost or you have to spend hundreds of dollars on stock only to cut 90% of it away in the mill.

From a personal perspective, I wonder why do people like crossbow shells anyway? They're really not as comfortable as everyone thinks they are. They are too small in every dimension, and the handle is just way too blocky and hard to really be ergonomic.

Hmmm it seems we should really look into the 3D printing aspect then. I think it's personal preference all the way on the shell. Love it or hate it kind of thing. This could be a practical way to make a VenoMaXX Mk. 3 as well, with a "real" SM5K shell.

EDIT: I recently discovered something called SmoothOn, which is an epoxy resin coating specifically designed for 3D printed parts. This could help 3D printed replica shells get closer to the strength of the stock shell.

3D printing needs to get stronger, I've had things printed out well that break and the rest of my stuff is cracked. I like the polycarb, HDPE and thinwall. Anyway, it looks great so far, good job.

Maybe we can use bondo or a similar compound to strengthen the shells. As long as they can print in the original crossbow colors.

He just posted a pic on his Instagram with the shell in it so maybe there's hope yet.

Thanks for the heads up, I wasn't aware. For anyone else seeing this thread here's a link to the picture of the project. I think this is the future of homemades honestly. 3D Print a tornado shell in whatever color you want, and modify the insides to fit whatever homemade internals you make perfectly. Genius.
https://instagram.co...ken-by=lorddrac

I am having trouble smoothing out the surface and cleaning up the extra material around the scans. Does anyone with experience cleaning up scans such as these have any tips?

You could just print the shells and smooth out the final shell with sandpaper.

There has to be a better shell out there.

Such as the namesake of this thread?? And the crossbow is actually quite comfortable. Sure, it could be a bit better, but as far as premade shells goes the Crossbow and Tornado are king. 

You're crazy.  I don't know where you're getting those numbers.  First off, people outside of the NIC style nerf community aren't interested in crossbows.  Based on the number of people who are active on NerfHaven, I'd guess there is an absolute maximum of 500 people who actively participate in NIC style nerf, including people who aren't on NH.  I'd be shocked if more than 5% of them have $100 to blow on a nerf gun, and would rather spend that money on an injection molded crossbow replica than some other homemade design (probably with pump action). You're also not accounting for the per-unit cost of actually making the crossbows once you have put in the setup cost of the mold and the equipment to use it.   

 

Back in 2004 or so, somebody was selling a ton of NIB crossbows on ebay for $50 each, so this was half the price you quoted and it was back when a crossbow was your best possible option for an NIC blaster.  They definitely sold fewer than 500. 

Not to mention most NIC nerfers (like me) use +bows instead

 

Langley Edit: But I *did* mention it. Look!

Nobody said CNC was the cheapest way, but as the xzeus proved, it's the best way barring finding a company willing to injection mold a large batch of them, which requires more capital than any of us probably have available. A wood crossbow is a terrible idea, since it would be really heavy and ABS can be thinner and lighter while still having enough tensile strength (although some design changes should be made like a thicker spring rest, in the case of the crossbow). I think the best way would be to crowdfund enough cash to CNC a mold and have an injection molding company make a bunch, which we could then sell to recoup the costs. To be honest, I think this is a cool development in Nerf but the technology just isn't cheap enough yet, and it's unlikely to ever be.

Um, is there any risk of Hasbro cracking down on whoever figures this out? Or would that person only have to worry if they sold a ****-ton of the shells?

I'd hate for the community to discover a way to make new xbow shells, only for Hascorp to issue the community at large a cease-and-desist order.

 

Also, why are we trying to start with replicating a large blaster? Wouldn't it be cheaper to prove the concepts on smaller blasters (like the Tech Target Eliminator) than large ones?

After the pool season starts, I'm planning on getting silicone and resin to replicate the shell of my Eliminator. (Until then, I'm going to try to research how to cast stuff in resin during my occasional breaks from homework.)

No, this is a koosh blaster, even if we do a crossbow I believe kenner owns the rights and they will never see this anyway, guaranteed, nor do they care

 

We are starting with these because they're the only shells worth replicating due to rarity and use

Given these factors:

• Possible (though improbable) legal ramifications.
• Disagreements about imperfections of the Tornado and Crossbow shells for NIC-caliber use.
• Arbitrary placement of screw posts and vital features without regard to our preferences.
• Mediocre strength members.

 
Here's is the question you should ask yourselves:  Why would we spend all of this time and effort replicating an existing shell, when we have plenty of talented artists and 3D modelers in this community who are capable of designing /exactly/ what we want?

Because it's fun, mainly. And to see if we can. Even if we could get a model made up, we'd be no closer than we are now, anyway.

What's that sound? Oh... It's the sound of cintage blaster shell prices everywhere dropping. Both a good thing and a bad thing, but I think it's great! Expensive platforms can now be made and sold for much cheaper than the real thing. Only downside is collector prices, but still not super bad.

You know how expensive a print this size is right? Not to mention it's highly unlikely that anyone has a printer with a large enough bed at home. To make these, you'd need a larger, industrial scale printer, at which point you might as well mill them or cast them (like the Xplorer Xzeus) or injection mold them, all of which are very expensive and would probably require a crowdfunding campaign to get going. Further, I doubt there's enough people in the NIC willing to put the capital down for that. In short, prices for original shells won't be dropping anytime soon. 

Do you know how much the entire shell would cost once printed? Will you be selling them? As well, are you going to scan the crossbow as well or are we just going to wait for Lucian to finish that?

I know this is great and all, but what is the point of this instead of making a +bow? In my opinion I think + bows look cooler

Stronger. The +bow "shell" is polycarbonate which is strong material but I wouldn't feel comfortable dropping a +bow on grass as much as I would one of these shells, most nerf guns survive drops pretty well. Also personal preference, and just because we can and it's cool.