frost vectron

I debated whether or not to make this thread for quite some time. I know it is quite a stupid request, but there are simply so many posts, quotes, and modifications that I just want to give a good thumbs-up to. None of the other emoticons, or even words, seem to express what this little image can:



If it won't take more than 5 minutes, it'd be a nice thing to have. If it requires a lot of work, then it's no big deal. Thanks for reading, though.

I apologize in advance if this is in the wrong section or if emoticon requesters are generally slapped by the hand of OMC.

Alright here's the deal.

I will be making an LED flash grenade with blinking LED's. I just want to know how much interest there is in something like this. If I buy things bulk, it should cut costs down quite a bit.

If I were to produce many of these, would anybody care to buy them? It will probably cost around $6-9 + shipping per flash unit, though this is just an estimate.

Technical details: high-output white LEDs encased in a tube, powered by a 9v battery, LED's will begin blinking after firing a switch. Tube to be covered in pipe insulation to prevent damage on throwing. Size of the unit would probably be 3-4" long with approximately 1" diameter.

Also, I don't know how soon I could get these babies made, so I don't have a time-frame. It depends on general interest, I guess.

If this tickles your fancy, reply here (with an estimate of how much you might buy). If so, then I've got a lot of stuff to order and test before I could actually start production. A lot of tests need to be done (such as durability and flash effectiveness).

This is specifically aimed at Human vs Zombie players, but should be nice for any nerfer that enjoys night combat.

Here is a little resume of my experiences with LEDs and electronics (but please note that these grenades will not be utilizing luxeon-powered LEDs):
http://lightsabertemple.blogspot.com/
Enjoy!

I've begun designing my next large-scale project. It involves a Ratchetblast, along with a long list of things that need to be done.

Before I begin, though, I need some information regarding the internals of this gun. I've searched and found countless posts of how it was impossible to re-assemble after being taken apart.

I've opened the front half of the gun with no problems. The rear half of the gun is what scares me, though.

So does anybody have internal photos, stories of success, or nightmarish tales about opening the rear half of the gun (the half with the trigger assembly, weird cocking/pulley mechanisms, etc.)?

Very much appreciated.

And just so this thread isn't a complete waste of space:



This is the front half of the gun disassembled. The only thing to worry about is the catch spring in the "sight" is very touchy and likes to shoot off. The other spring (near the rotation mechanism) also likes to shoot off, but is not as touchy--it takes quite a bit to get it to fling away.

Here's to hoping I get to finish this thing as I envisioned it! I have high hopes for this mod.

EDIT: I am mainly interested in opening up the rear half of the gun to get the plunger out of there and do a spring replacement. If anybody has any other ideas for replacing the spring without having to take apart the rear half, I'd like to hear that too. I don't have the gun infront of me (it's 200 miles away). When I initially modded it, it was just a quick 'n dirty CPVC mod, so I don't remember if it was possible to do a spring replacement without disassembling it even more. Anyways, I'll stop rambling on endlessly.

I did this mod a month or so back, but I've finally found time to post it. I haven't been able to mod at all, being away from home for college and all.

Anyways, here's a mod straight from the hard drive.

The gun is called the Professional by a small company named Airzone (it was kind of like buzzbee or lanard back in Max Force days). Thanks to orange for helping me identify the gun.

It's a small pump-operated pistol. The mod is simply a barrel replacement. All that is needed is 1/2" CPVC (or barrel material of your choice), adhesive of your choice (hot glue will do fine), a phillips screwdriver, and a flat-head screwdriver.

First we open the sucker up. Take out the fake magazine in the handle and take off the orange pumping slide (two screws).



The area under the barrel is glued together, so use the flathead screwdriver to pry apart the shells and break the glue. If it doesn't work, you could use an x-acto knife to cut away at the glue until you can separate the gun. Beware when removing screws--they are different sizes. Be sure to remember where the large and small screws go, or just leave them in the case like I do.



Here are the internals. Notice how the pump is reversed from normal nerf guns (so you can use the orange slide to pump it from the back).



It also seems like there is no overpressure valve. My thought is that since the pump is so small, it can't hold much pressure anyways--or the overpressure valve is located somewhere else? I'm not entirely certain about this.



So onto the barrel replacement. The stock barrel just pulls right out of the air delivery area (similar to how the stock NF barrel just comes off the plunger chamber). The air restrictor is inside the stock barrel, so you don't have to worry about removing any additional air restrictors. Now glue/goop/epoxy your replacement barrel right onto the end of the airtank, making sure it is straight. I used a piece of leftover 1/2" CPVC from another project.



Lay the internals back in place and we're done. Close up the gun.

Not related to the mod, I think this was interesting about the gun:



Anyhow, here is the overall gun with barrel:



It now gets range in the low 40's (flat range). It's not very high, but it's a very small and cool-looking pistol. The accuracy is great, so long as the barrel is put on there level. Experimentally, it seems that 6-7 pumps is optimal because the pumps are so short and tiny. Enjoy.

Hey guys,

A buddy of mine brought over his Sawtooth one day and asked if I could mod it. He's a good friend of mine, so I decided to make it bad-ass. He's moving to the East Coast after this summer, so here's his going away gift. I'm going to split this up into two parts. Part 1 will cover the in-line clip and sawtooth mods. Part 2 will address the AT2k integration. It's a little complicated. I went ahead with Part 2 because the cocking mechanism completely broke on me, so I had to build the Sawtooth so you cock it from the back (think of Angel's Sneakshot and Eagle Eye mods).

Part I
*Note that Part I will keep the original cocking handle. For Part 2, you must relocate the cocking handle. It will be addressed in the beginning of Part 2. Part 2 still uses the same barrel system and in-line clip.

Tools:
Dremel
Pipecutters

Or

Hacksaw
File

Materials:
Hot Glue/Any Adhesive
3/4" CPVC
3/4" CPVC to 1/2" CPVC Reducer
1/2" PVC Male Threaded Adapter
1/2" PVC Female Threaded Adapter
1/2" CPVC
1/2" PVC
9/16" or 17/32" Brass (Depending on dart size)
3/8" Vinyl Tubing (can be substituted for anything that fits into 1/2" CPVC)
Rattler Spring (Optional)

Procedure:
First we open up the gun. I took out all the clip advancing mechanisms. Here is what you should see.



The next thing is to dremel out the case so the 3/4" to 1/2" CPVC Reducer will fit directly onto the tip of the plunger tube (perfect fit! It was meant to be). Note the 1/2" side of the reducer is the side that fits onto the little nub. Once it fits, glue it in place.

Take an 8" length of 3/4" CPVC. Put that into the reducer you just slapped on the air chamber. You will now want a small 1" or so length of 1/2" CPVC. Put the 3/8" Vinyl Tubing inside of that. All this piece will do is act as a weight to help get the darts moving. The small diameter tubing inside is just to ensure that a dart does not go inside the 1/2" CPVC.



Now for the barrel end. You want to take your 1/2" PVC Male Threaded Adapter and fit it onto the 3/4" CPVC. You will notice that the 3/4" CPVC is slightly larger in diameter than 1/2" PVC. You will need to dremel around on the inside (the slip-on portion of the adapter) so it will fit over the 3/4" CPVC. Leave the threaded portion alone.



Now you want to take your 1/2" PVC female threaded adapter and put a small length of 1/2" PVC in the slip end. Mine is only about 3" long. I then put my 17/32" Brass inside of the PVC. This will act as the barrel. My brass is only about 3.5" long as well. You want your brass to be flush with the 1/2" PVC. You also want your brass to be flush with the female end as well. That means when you screw your barrel on, the brass will actually go inside of the male adapter.



That's it for the barrel. The system is a lot like Carbon's "In-Line Clip" (Link Here). The length of CPVC is long enough to fit 3 darts. You will also have one dart in the barrel as well. This means you have a total of four shots before having to reload.

The darts are lined up, front to back. They are loose in the 3/4" CPVC. You fire the first shot that is already chambered in the barrel. You point the gun down and cock the gun. The 1/2" CPVC + 3/8" Tubing is at the back of the line of darts in the 3/4" CPVC. It will push the front dart slightly into the 17/32" Brass Barrel. You point the gun up, fire. Now there are only two darts left in the 3/4" CPVC chamber. You point the gun down again, cock the gun. The next dart falls into the brass. The process continues. When the 3/4" CPVC is empty, you unscrew the barrel and drop four darts down the chamber. The fourth dart will stick up a little bit, so you just screw the barrel right onto that. At any time during a firefight, you can also load the darts in the front of the gun (like a traditional single-shot) so long as you have not pointed the gun down to chamber the next dart into the brass. If you do, you might get a "double-shot" (where two darts chamber into the brass and fire at the same time).

You will also want to do traditional cocking-gun mods, such as wrapping E-tape around the plunger and lubricating with silicone spray. The Sawtooth has a very small space for spring replacement. The plunger distance when the gun is cocked is very small, meaning you cannot replace the spring with more coils. The compressed length must be very small. I noticed the Rattler spring has the same amount of coils with a thicker wire gauge, so I used that as my replacement. You will also want to change the catch spring as well, because the stock catch spring is terrible.



Close the gun up, and you are finished with Part I.







Part II Coming Soon! Please be patient.

Part II

Here I will be relocating the cocking handle and integrating an Airtech 2000.

Tools:
Dremel
Hacksaw
File
Pliers

Materials:
Airtech 2000 Internals
Metal Wire (for trigger)
Keyring (for trigger)
Vinyl Tubing
Adhesive (Plumber's goop)

1.5" PVC Coupler (Pump handle)
10-32 Allthread steel rod (Cocking handle and pump handle)
(3) 10-32 Metal Cap Nuts
10-32 Regular Nut

1/2" CPVC (stock and AT2k Barrels)
(2) 1/2" CPVC Elbows (stock)

Procedure:

First you want to gut your AT2k. Do the normal mods--cut out the air restrictors and replace the barrels with 1/2" CPVC or whatever you feel like. You also want to cut the yellow tube that connects the pump to the air tank. You can throw away the entire yellow tube--it just isn't long enough. You will need approximately 18" worth of vinyl tubing to replace the yellow tube. I also cut off the Goo Chamber to minimize the at2k internals. You unscrew the six screws in the orange circular piece. Open it up, take off the rubber disc, drain the goo. Take your hacksaw to the clear chamber and cut it flush with the orange circular piece. Put the rubber disc back on, screw it back together, and fill the hole (where the goo tube used to be) with hot glue or plumber's goop. I also bent the metal rod that actuates the valve. This will help later when installing the at2k trigger. Also note to save that little black cap that goes over where the yellow tubing connects to the orange circular piece. That is important to making a seal (and allows you to take your gun apart later).



We have to shorten the at2k pump to fit into the sawtooth. You want the pump chamber to be approximately 4.5" long. The pump handle should be 5" long. Drill a hole near the tip to fit a 2.5" length of the 10-32 allthread steel rod inside.



Now we need to dremel some areas to make the at2k internals fit where we want them to. Follow these photos for modifying the case.













Now you want to start gooping things in place. The groove at the back of the at2k turret should fall right into the groove on the front of the sawtooth. Goop only one side to the case so you can still open and close the sawtooth if you wanted to. The at2k internals should also be gooped to one side of the gun as well. I also gooped the at2k tank to the turret for a perfect air seal. Bend your firing pin before gooping the airtank to the gun case!!



NEXT PART COMING SOON



You will also want to goop your pump to the rear of the case as well. Be sure to plug your pump before gooping it in place, because you will not be able to after you do so.



Now while that is all drying, we need to relocate the cocking handle. First I drilled a hole in the back of the plunger rod large enough for the 10-32 allthread rod to fit into. Drill a hole just a little bit on the small side, so you have to thread the rod into the plunger shaft. Use plumber's goop to secure this in place. Make the rod long enough so it sticks out the back of the case. A small hole needs to be dremeled at the back of the case to allow the rod to pass.



I now put a shoulder stock on the gun so the cocking handle won't make the gun uncomfortable to hold. I built it out of 1/2" CPVC and is attached only to one side of the case (the left side here). It's fairly straightforward. Cut out the stock to the size you want. Make sure to accomodate room for the cocking handle when the gun is cocked. PVC Cement or Goop the 90 degree 1/2" CPVC elbows onto the 1/2" CPVC pieces. I dremeled part of the case at the top to let the 1/2" CPVC sit inside of (more surface area will result in a stronger bond--remember that).





We now have to work on that at2k trigger. Make sure all your goop is dry before doing so. First take some of that metal wire and bend it so you have a nice small loop. This loop will poke out of the hole we drilled by the trigger area.





Now take the other end of the metal wire and wrap it tightly around the firing pin that you bent earlier.



Now you're ready for assembly. Take that tubing from the pump. Put the left side of the case just above the gun. String that tubing into those two holds you made in the left side of the case. String the tubing out through the mag-well (through that slot cut out for the trigger wire).



Now screw the left side of the case onto the gun. Remember that black threaded cap we saved from the orange circular piece? Put that onto the vinyl tubing, put the tubing onto the connector at the back of the AT2k. Screw that black threaded cap on for an airtight seal.

You are almost there. Take that 1.5" Coupler and cut it lengthwise. Drill two holes in the corners to let that 10-32 threaded rod inside. This technique is borrowed from my Mav Slider Repair. Fit the 1.5" Coupler on the top of the gun, get the rod inside of the two drilled holes, and cover the threaded rod with the cap nuts.





Finally. It is finished.









I also created a nice little video for you guys.



The ranges:

Sawtooth unit fires an average of 44'.
AT2K unit fires an average of 66'.

That's it guys. Feel free to post comments or questions.

I also wanted to say thanks to:

Angel, for answering some AT2K questions. I also drew a lot of inspiration from his Sneak Shot and Eagle Eye mods.

Carbon, for designing the In-Line High Capacity Clip which was heavily borrowed on for the main firing system.