OfAllTheNerf

What you will need:



10" of 1/2" PVC
1 1/2" of 1/2" brass
1 foot of PETG (I'm using OMC Thick-walled)
e-tape
Plumber's Goop
Small ring of CPVC
Dremel with cutting wheels and sanding bits, or other cutting/sanding devices

A air duster is also helpful to clear off all of the PVC dust.

Take your PVC and round out one end (this is the one that will be going into the coupler)



Now make a mark 1" from that end, and then another 3" after that.



Now mark out a dart slot.



Cut it out.



Now take your 1 1/2" of 1/2" brass and wrap e-tape around one end until it makes a good seal when slid into the PETG. Make it snug so it won't blow off when shot, but not so tight it is hard to remove.



Then wrap e-tape around the other end so it fits snugly in the PVC.



Glue it in with either Goop or superglue.

Now take the PETG and wrap tape (I chose masking tape) around it in several places so it doesn't jiggle around in the PVC too much.



Slide the barrel back in and mark the place where it meets the back part of the dart slot.



Take your CPVC and cut about half off.



Goop it on at the mark.



Now you're done! Let the Goop dry, and you should have a nice PETG breech.



If I ever get darts that fit in PETG well for air guns and springers, I would completely switch to these. As it is my darts fit weird, so I'll still be sticking to my Brass breech's for springers, and PETG ones for air guns (one of each for my crossbow (at2k integrated)).

I'll also be selling these if anyone would like to buy them. $11 shipped for one or $8 each with $3 for however many you buy. If you're intersted please post in my Sales thread (sig) or in my Breech sales thread. Let me know what you guys think of the prices also.

Questions? Comments?

-OfAll'

I apologize for the bad picture quality, but I lost my camera and am taking pictures with my camcorder.



It creates a good seal by having this brass piece in the back. It's made out of 1/2" brass with e-tape around it to make a nice secure seal when the barrel in moved over it.



The barrel is completely removable at the moment, but can easily be secured inside the breech by glueing a piece onto the very end of the barrel (the part that is in the dart slot, so when you pull it out it stops at when the PVC begins).

I'll make a write-up eventually (my first one in a LONG time), once I perfect everything. It is pretty obvious though, let me know if you guys don't think you need one.

These are alot easier to make and alot cheaper than my brass breech's, so eventually I should be able to make alot more alot quicker for people to buy.

Questions? Comments?

-OfAll'

Well the ones that came with my iphone finally broke, and so I bought a pair of the Ink'd Smoking Buds (Skullcandy) and am very pleased with the sound (for $5). They are mainly for use while waiting for my se310s to come in.

But now I am in search of headphones of similar quality, but non noise-cancelling, for various situations.

Anyone know of any that are cheap-ish? I don't need them to be extremely good, just for use while walking around and not wanting to get hit by cars and such.

-OfAll'

First of all I apologize for not making any new write-ups, but my parts haven't come in on time and free time has been lacking as you can probably tell by my forum activity.

Anyways, crossbow style:



It has a 2k (CPVC coupler) Integrated into it, with a keyring as the trigger:



I've been trying different ways of glueing the keyring on, as it frequently pops off when enough force is appplied abruptly, some of which have made the trigger pull stiff. It's a bit annoying, but I'll see what it turns out like after the Goop dries.

Ranges for the Crossbow/NF part are ~80', atleast, if not more. I haven't tested the 2k yet because of the trigger.

As for the name, I couldn't think of one, thus this.

Questions, Comments?

-OfAll'

It seems I’ve been doing a lot of never-modified-before write-ups.

Anyways, after doing this mod and putting it back together (which is a complete and utter bitch and a half) I would recommend you just do it from the outside. It might be a little trickier, but completely possible and a lot easier than opening it up. I’ll bold or indicate which steps should be done to make it easiest (the whole thing will be done by opening it up, though). This will also give you guys a chance to see how the thing works, if you’re interested (and my pictures are good enough). I like this gun, especially how the mouth opens and the legs go forward when the you pull the tail back.

Anyways, here it is.



Flip it over and unscrew the four rather large screws.



When you unscrew it you’ll see that the handle isn’t attached to anything.





Let’s look at the front of the gun. The little prong you see to the upper right is what makes the bottom half of the gators mouth open.



Pop out the assembly by pulling from the top of the gators head (bottom, if you are looking down on it) and pull it out and to the right. Flip it over once you have it out.



The little prong you see there is what makes the top of the head move, and the extension spring is what pulls the whole green piece to make everything happen. Lightly twist that piece out, and pop the extension spring off.



Now open up the mouth and look at the stock barrel/ peg (this is one of the only steps you have to do if you want to save yourself trouble).



Cut off the peg and widen the air hole (pictured with goop already on).



Then glue a 2.5” CPVC barrel on (Goop/epoxy).



Once the barrel is dry take a look at the top of the mouth and sand both sides until they look like this.



Now it’s time to put the assembly back in. While you’re doing so, make sure both extension springs fit under this piece like this (it will have to be attached to the assembly to be put back in, but if they’re not like this the gun will not function. You could push the springs into place with a screwdriver if they’re giving you trouble).



Now put that piece back onto the assembly, and attach the spring to the plunger tube.



Then make sure both rods are like this (not going over, as this would also prevent the gun from firing). There is one on each side.



Pop the assembly back in. Finished internals (should be the same as stock).



Now put the shell back together, but while you’re doing so hold the handle up to ensure it goes back properly.



Finished product.



With bands.



With two strings of bands on it (as shown) I get about 30’-40’. It was very varied throughout the five darts I shot. The highest I got was around 50’, but it traveled extremely slowly (I think it was too tight).

So, what do you think? I like this gun, and think it’s a neat little collectors item. Needless to say I’d love to own someone with this in a war, but that is not likely to happen. This was more of a there’s-no-write-up-for-it-so-I-might-as-well sort of thing.

Questions? Comments?

-OfAll’