lordhenry4000

So I've finally been validated and now I've almost finished my first biggish mod (more to come!), so I figured I'd share it here for critique and whatnot. It's very cheap and reuses a lot of stuff, and can be done with no more sophisticated equipment than a hacksaw and glue gun (though I wish I had a dremel), and nothing to buy but a hook and a bike pump (and pvc and brass). By the way, I think my images are small enough, but if they're not, I'm sorry and I'll fix them immediately. There are also a couple additions on the way, including the laser sight (when I get it working again) and the shotgun barrel.

This is a mod for my Titan, for which I haven't done range tests yet (it's been raining all week), but I'll add them shortly. It's a barrel mod, size mod, and pump mod. So here goes (sorry I don't have pictures for the first parts; this mod has been a long time coming):

Firstly, open the thing up. There are about a million screws, and an orange ring on the back. Just break that thing off; otherwise try to keep the screws intact (which is not what I did...).

Once you have it open, take out the plunger and that entire back part; you won't need it. Also, remove ALL the plastic tubing. There are two tubes coming out of the main tank; cut off, and then seal off (with hot glue/plumbers' goop) the non-pumping one. Save the part you cut off. Also remove the pressure gauge, and all the miscellaneous parts (extra trigger on the side as well as both triggers and all the mechanisms that go with them (leave the orange thing on the rod sticking out of the air tank though)).

Now take out your hacksaw and get to work. You'll need to find a way to position your bike pump such that it will be sturdy and pumpable even on the run. This will probably vary somewhat depending on what pump you've bought. Also bear in mind that many bike pumps will not take hot glue at all; it just snaps right off them as soon as it dries, so position it for optimal pressure on the gun itself.This is where my pump is:





As for the gun itself, once you've figured out where you want your pump, cut the gun in half. Take that back part off completely. Leave a screw in the upper back portion so you can still close it right, but take off the back handle, the bottom handle-connector piece, and all. It should be about this big:





That red piece in the middle of the picture is where the rear handle was cut off. I took that red piece from the back, pump section and cut it to the right shape, and hot glued it to one side of the casing everything is only glued to one side, so it can still be taken apart).

This is the top of one piece, viewed from the front:





Now, my bike pump has a 90-degree turn at the head, and does not readily attach to the tubing that nerf uses. What I did was attach on of the small metal attachments that comes with the pump, like for inflating basketballs. I put that on the pump and then rammed that orange piece you cut off earlier onto it, and then hot-glued the shit out of it to keep it secure and airtight:





Give the same hot-glue treatment to where it attaches to the pressure tank. You may need to buy your own tubing (I did just because I wanted to have extra), just buy some that's as close to the same ID as the nerf stuff as you can find. Also, try to use as little as you can get away with. As you can see, mine projects up and out of the gun. I didn't have enough space inside without the tubing interfering with the firing mech, so I redirected it up and around. My pump is one of those that doesn't take well to hot glue on any of the metal parts, so it is braced up against the plastic of the gun, covered in hot glue, and also hot-glued to the air tank itself:





Now, in that other picture, you can see that there's a curved red piece of plastic covering part of the pump. This is part of one half of the original pump casing. Just tear that apart and make it fit with your pump:





Only glue it to one side, again, so your gun can be taken apart still without suffering utter devastation. Now, fix your gun handle: more than likely, you're missing at least one of the screws that used to be there, so you'll crush the thing when you hold/pump it. To fix this problem, I just wedged/hot-glued some PVC in there at an appropriate place, so now I don't crush it to death.





I also grabbed another spare piece from all the stuff I've cut off to fix up the bottom of the handle (again, only glued to one side). Do the same thing to patch up where the pressure gauge was, and the back of the gun, where you cut stuff off. If you're out of flat material, you can do what I did and use the glue gun's nozzle to melt/bend some of the rounded part into a relatively smooth shape. It's a pain, but it works.

Now it's time to build a new trigger, since we got rid of the handle that had the right trigger, and the trigger on the front handle is worthless for what we need. Take a pipe hook (looks like this)

and cut it roughly in half (this depends on how big a hook you are using. Basically, you want it to eventually be about this shape: '----, and I apologize for the ASCII.

Now, you'll need to cut a space for this thing, which is just a lot of small adjustments. You want it to stick out the front and point down, and go back into the gun and point towards the trigger mech, which needs to be bent in such a way that it catches on the new hook.


^^^front^^^


^^^attach to the trigger mech^^^


I also used a white twist-tie to keep the black trigger-pulling bar from popping up off the trigger; you can see it there in that last picture.

Now that you've cut the right spaces, you need to find a way to keep the new trigger in place. For me, this involved cutting up a couple of little pieces and securing them in key locations so that they'll hold the trigger into this half of the gun. The rear red piece, visible in the lower-right of that last picture, is a flat piece hot-glued there with a slot cut in it, long enough for the trigger to pull all the way. It's open at the back, but far enough back so that even with the trigger pulled all the way, it does not leave this channel. In this way, the trigger is removable if it needs to be taken out, but it is secured well enough that the black trigger bar has o be removed first. You can see most of the new trigger mechanism in this picture, as well as (about halfway up) where I added another red piece to keep the trigger from moving around too much.





So now you have minimized and strengthened your titan's pumping mechanisms, and gotten rid of all that extraneous wasted air space. Close it up, and it's time for the barrel mods!

These are very much like the other titan barrel mods you can find on this site, for the most part. Firstly, smash out both the air restrictors (or use a dremel, if you feel so inclined/have access to one). Take the restrictor at the end of the big barrel off entirely. Now, sand down a piece of 1/2" PVC so that it will fit (very tightly!) into the inside barrel. Attach this to a male-female pair, so you have a female end sticking out of the gun. Use something to seal this all up PVC epoxy, goop, glue, whatever. I just used electrical tape and it works fine. Just make sure it's tight. I also shoved some CPVC inside to restrict how much wasted air this uses. The end sticking out of the gun looks like this:






This differs slightly, I believe, from most people's mods, because they do not have a threaded end. I've never been totally comfortable with just ramming a piece of pvc into another and calling it airtight, so I prefer this way, even though it may be slightly less efficient air-wise. In any case, the big orange barrel will not fit over this, so put the new part into the orange barrel so it sticks out at the bottom, put something down the orange barrel (a long piece of pvc will do fine) and grab some plastic epoxy or something to secure that new piece into the old barrel, and once that's done, screw the big orange barrel onto it, which will actually make the connection even a little tighter (make sure you don't put any/much goop/hot glue/other crap into the small orange barrel, because that's where the air comes out. You don't want to glue it shut.

My first barrel was two feet of 1/2" PVC, sanded out a little at the business end to provide an air cushion, and electrical-taped to a male PVC connector. It shoots dart tag darts best; they have a perfect fit.

As I continued to mod the gun though, it got much too strong for that barrel. I can still use it, but it will no longer shoot darts that are not BRAND NEW. It would fire off one shot with a dart (unofficial range: about 200' ACCURATELY (as in, down a straight hallway) with no arcing), but then any attempts to shoot that dart again were unsuccessful; the dart simply rattled in the barrel. I inspected the gun, barrel, and dart, and tried shooting different darts: same results: one shot only. I realized at that point that the darts themselves were being torn apart because they fit so well in the barrel, and their heads were being burned away, causing all the air to rush around them on a second firing attempt. This made me realize I needed to shoot something else, that wouldn't burn away so easily: the gun simply will not fire if the dart is not airtight.

So the barrel now is as follows: a foot of 9/16 brass, nested in about five inches of PVC, electrical-taped to a male coupler. Picture instructions:


^^^this is bent in so the dart stops at the back^^^







There's electrical tape at the bottom of the pipe, as well as right where the PVC stops. This top part is jammed in as far as it can go, and then lightly hot-glued to take care of any leaks that might still exist.

There's only one last part to go, which is making the stabilizing ring. As someone else noticed here, a Gatorade cap fits perfectly on that big orange barrel. So, buy a Gatorade and put a hole in the exact middle of the cap (this is where I REALLY wanted the dremel, but I managed it with just scissors and a file, so I'm sure you can as well).

Put this cap on after you've screwed on the barrel, and you're good to go! It will hold it perfectly centered (assuming you've done the hole right) and firm.

Now, all it needs is a name and a paint job, (and range tests) and it's good to go!