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Member Since 06 Sep 2009
Offline Last Active Sep 26 2017 04:53 PM

Topics I've Started


12 May 2012 - 09:26 PM

Kingston Inaugural Nerf Games (K.I.N.G)

Date: Saturday, June 9th, 2012
Time: 10am until everybody has had enough.
City: Kingston, Ontario.
Location: Lord Strathcona Public School 251 McMahon Ave K7M 3H4
Directions: Take the 401 whichever way will get you to Kingston, exit at Sir John A MacDonald Blvd and head southish until you come to Glengarry Rd on your right, turn onto Glengarry Rd. Take your first left at Avenue Rd and follow that until you get to McMahon Ave and turn right. The school will be on your right an is hard to miss.
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Admission: There will be a charge of $10 for this to cover prizes, materials, and most importantly, badges.

-Eye protection is mandatory
-No singled Titans, assorted Shit Cannons, plugged Big Blasts, or converted water guns. (must have a minimum of 3 barrels firing at once)
-This is not daycare, and I'm not your babysitter, act your age or older if need be.
-No age restriction, having said that, no mercy. 13 and under needs to have a parent/guardian present all day. (see above)
-No shields, Manta excluded obviously.
-No melee
-Barrel tapping is ok with me, stabbing not so much. A Barrel tap is when you tap somebody with the side of your barrel.
-No exposed metal tips on barrels.
-No primarily black, brown or camouflage painted blasters, if you must bring them, cover them in bright coloured tape.
-If it's not yours, don't touch it without asking.
-Dart sweeps are for everybody, and don't just pick up your own darts, pick up every dart you see.
-If it comes with you, it leaves with you. (pick your shit up)
-Swearing is fun, just don't yell it
-Use common sense when selecting blasters to bring, if its too powerful you will not be using it.
-NO MASKS, PAINTBALL OR OTHERWISE. Don't need anybody thinking we are playing paintball.

Dart Restrictions:
-No exposed metal
-Slugs will be heavily scrutinized
-Spherical or washer weights only, nothing pointy.

What to Bring:
-At least 1 primary
-Sidearm if you feel like it.
-200 darts
-Previously mentioned mandatory eye protection.
-Water or other means of quenching thirst.
-Lunch, there is also a few fast food places and a Loblaws close by.
-Good attitude.
-Stuff breaks, so bring extras for yourself and others if you are so inclined, my personal supply is mostly being used by my guests.

Games to expect:
-3:15 deathmatch
-Defend the core
-Tower Defense

-Before the war starts, during lunch, and after the war are the only times you should be doing this.

-5-10 guests

I have several back up sites if we are forced to move for one reason or another. One is across the street, another is 2 blocks away.

Screaming Salvo

29 February 2012 - 11:59 PM

This is my entry in the Canadian Mod Contest, posted here to share the love.
When first tasked with creating a new mod I went to my cave and started digging in bins. I was quickly distracted by my stock Starscream Blaster, shoots darts, transforms, and most importantly, it's a jet.
The next night I decided to take full advantage of those features, but I decided to give it enough power to justify running around with it at a war.
Enter parts list:
1 Big salvo tank
1 Sm3000 pump
1 Tubing T
1 Hornet Blast button
1 45 degree CPVC coupler
3 .75 to .50 PVC reduction couplers
Tiny bit of CPVC
Some 1" and .50" PVC
Random lengths of random sizes of tubing
Materials for a breech, and enough .50" PVC to cover it (if not already used in the breech)

Start with this:
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Quickly open it up before you get distracted, giving you this:
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I got started before taking that picture.
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I had problems with the orange caps, large amounts of glue and weak plastic worked against me here, and I could not get them off, to make later stages easier, and to get an overall cleaner look, try and get them off before opening. I ended up completely cutting them off with a knife later.

Gut the internals, and dremel away at the inside's until you roughly have this:
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The top is a whole new ball game that I will get to later.

Cut down the stock trigger piece thing to this:
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I though I had a picture of it stock, I thought wrong.

Next you are going to want to attach your internals so you can get a feel for where things are going (or do it before, whatever):
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Now make your breech, there are many types to choose from, and I leave that part to you. The one I use I received in a trade, and as such I do not have picture of its construction. You don't even need to use a breech for this mod, but I feel it fit the look I was going for.

Attach the breech to the 45 degree coupler, and shove some CPVC in the other end. The length of the CPVC will depend on how deep you get the Salvo tank into the shell, for me it was .75". Dab some super glue on the CPVC and place it in/onto the Salvo tank, you should have some wiggle room. Work fast to get the barrel and tank situated before the glue dries.
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Chop down some 1" PVC into 2 pieces .75" and 2 pieces 1" or so. Dremel out 2 of the reducers so there is no ridge on the end and cut one in half. Stick the 2 full length couplers into the 1" lengths of PVC, and the now 2 half couplers into the .75" lengths. Slide the .75" sections on the breech and pump tube respectively.
Use your glue of choice to secure everything in the shell now, I used hot glue.
Cut about .50" of .50" PVC and slide it onto the end of the pump shaft, stick the 1" PVC section with the unmodified coupler in it over this. The other section goes over your barrel, wrap both in packing tape until they fit snug in the orange caps, add glue if needed.
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Now for the top half of the shell, cut a hole for your breech opening in the fake barrel and cut a hole to make clearance for the Salvo tank. Go slow to make sure the fit is tight as possible.
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Once you have everything fitting how you like, reassemble and start practicing your jet noises.
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2 cameras died in the making of this writeup, leading to blurry photos shot with a video camera.

I could have used 2 tanks, but then it would have left me no room for the pump. I also could have placed the Salvo tank completely in the fake barrel, there is room, but it would have left me with barrel sticking out, ruining the look I was going for.

Ranges when the sun comes back, and the wind goes away.

Praxis Max Power Spring Relocation

19 September 2011 - 11:12 PM

Right away, I would like to thank Rogue and One Wing Angel, with a shout out to Buffdaddy.
I suggest reading BuffDaddys Praxis thread to see how to take this apart right, I started taking pictures after starting the mod.

You are going to need:
-Philips head screwdriver
-Needle nose pliers
-Optional foam block to keep screws organized (There is alot, of varying sizes, do something to keep them straight)

First off, open the Praxis:
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(pay no attention to the spring arm locations, I did not take a pic before starting)

Next, take out the internals and remove these 2 screws:
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You can now remove the arm/spring pod dealy:
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Open it up by removing the one screw:
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You can now pull out the bumper and its rod, after which gently lift the arm up over the post to remove tension from it:
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Pull out the rod the arm rotates on, then you can turn the arm so the spring arm can be removed:
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Put the arm back on, but with the spring arm behind it, instead of in the hole, then put back the rod and gently pull the arm back over the post:
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(Credit goes to One Wing Angel for this idea.)

Now for some shell work to make the other spring relocation possible. First off, rough up the shell around the post we will eventually putting the other spring arm on:
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You are going to want alot of epoxy putty for this one, not Octo-Shot amounts, but decent none the less.
Make sure not to go above the notch in the one post for the spring/arm pod dealy:
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Also make sure to get some around the back of that post. This looks like alot, but it is actually just enough to get the shell to close I found out.

Now, I am sure some of you have encountered a problem with your Praxis, where it will drop the clip randomly on you.
While waiting for the putty to dry, I noticed a stress mark on the trigger lever that seemed to be in an odd place:
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How the hell did that happen?
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That's not good at all.

Just trim down that piece of plastic a tad, and the problem should be fixed:
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Now, if you get distracted easily like I do, your putty should be dry by now like mine was. Without putting the top plate of the pod back on, put it back into the other internals. Put the plate back on that keeps the pod from sliding forward, but only put the 1 screw in, on the side with the pod half. Put the whole assembly back into the shell and put the screws back to hold it down.
I only have one poor picture to show what you should have now:
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Told you it wasn't very good.

Now for the reason you put almost everything back before we were done, push the arm over enough so you can remove the screw holding the spring arm down. Now grab you needle nose pliers and pinch the spring arm and lift it over the stock nubs, and over the screw port nextish to the farthest forward one:
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Feel the power?

Now put the other side back onto the pod and put the screw back in it. If you put enough epoxy putty your post will still be centered in that space, I did not use enough:
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But it's late/I'm lazy, so I tried putting it back together anyhoo:
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You barely notice the increase in tension while priming, and it definitely shoots hard.

Homemade Barrel Selector

06 August 2010 - 07:17 PM

A few weeks ago, Buffdaddy stumbled upon a ball valve that lets you change barrels on the fly, Buffdaddys write-up. Now, that particular ball valve is quite pricey at $15 apiece.
After seeing this I knew what I needed to do, make one.

You will need these materials:
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- A section of CPVC
- 1, 3/4 CPVC tee
- 1, 1/2 CPVC coupler
- 1, 3/4-1/2 CPVC reducer
- Some craft foam
- Super Glue
- Dremel

First off, you are going to need to make a hole in your tee. I used a "zip" bit on my dremel to rough out the hole, then used a 5/8 drum to finish it.
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Slide your reducer into the tee.
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Then slide your CPVC through the hole you made, and into the inside of the reducer. Drill, or mark a hole in the middle.
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Then widen the hole for better air-flow, I used the zip bit and 5/8 drum method again. This will serve as your air diverter.
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Slide the CPVC back into the tee and check your fit.
It should look like this:
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Then you are going to want to trim down the CPVC so there is only enough sticking out of the hole for the elbow to fit. Stick on your elbow, then mark the CPVC inside of the tee so you know where the craft foam will fit.
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Pull the CPVC back out and slather some Super Glue in the space between your marks. Then wrap your craft foam around the CPVC, wait a bit for it to dry, then trim it as needed.
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Stick the CPVC back into the tee, making sure the end goes into the reducer.
I put some lube on mine to make it a bit smoother, it isnt needed though.
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Fill in the part of the CPVC that sticks out of the tee with some hot glue to seal it, then glue on your elbow. I put a screw in the elbow, through the CPVC just to make sure I dont twist the elbow off.
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And you are done.
There are easier ways of doing this, I can think of at least 1 right now, but I thought of this first and had to follow through.
Questions? Comments?

Sm3k Help

28 May 2010 - 10:05 PM

So, I'm almost done my Sm3k and I'm down to one problem. Either my pump is leaking because they didnt put enough plastic on it, the OPRV is out of whack, or I am actually filling the tank on one pump. Does any of this make sence to anybody?
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Should I plug this hole?
Or should I plug my OPRV?
I replaced the o-ring with a new one, does this grant me magical one-pump powers? Is somebody going to sig what I just wrote?
It's a yellow Sm3k, and I have never fired a working Sm3k to compare the air-output to.
Help? Suggestions?