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Member Since 07 May 2008
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Topics I've Started

Real Nerf Gun

22 May 2012 - 01:03 PM


Why is the Nerf Product Awareness thread in Trading?

03 February 2012 - 03:50 PM

This topic was the only useful thing in General Nerf and has nothing to do with trading. Why was it moved?

Brassed Recon

15 January 2012 - 12:51 AM

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Start by removing these pieces. To get the boltsled off stick a paper clip in the connection point until the pin pops out. Throw away the two lock pieces, save the springs for spares if you want.

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Use pipe cutters to cut the breech along the seam. You don't have to cut it at that particular point if you find another easier.

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Sand out the back end until the 17/32 brass can fit through; then cut the front part and use 17/32 brass wrapped in some sandpaper to sand it out until the brass fits snugly in the half piece without warping it. Be sure to mark where the barrel part ends on the front part so you know where to cut the brass later.

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Sand your piece of brass so the glue can adhere better and superglue it in the back piece. It doesn't matter how big your piece of brass is as long as it's at least long enough to clear the entire breech.

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Then glue the top piece to the brass. Make sure it is pressed as far back as possible, as the original dimensions must be followed.

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Bust out your cutting disc and get to work on shaping the brass. Make sure to SAND... lots of sanding. Use the dremel sanding stones on the rough parts then clean it all up with a file. It is especially important to get the pointy part of the brass very smooth and level as to not stab the darts as they come out of the clip. Also important is to get the barrel part of the brass the right length and smooth; if it is too long or if it's too rough on the darts you will have feeding problems. Be sure to test it out thoroughly.

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And you're done.

I've done this mod on Raiders, Deploys, Longstrikes, and Recons so far with excellent results. I'd guess the range doubled, maybe more. I've sold a few of these to non NIC people and they liked them a lot.

Anyways, hopefully this will help anyone out who wants to have more fun with their reverse plunger blasters. Still safe to shoot indoors and they don't hurt at all, but with the increase in range/velocity it makes things more fun. Questions or comments?

PAS Plunger Rod and Priming Rod Repair

05 November 2011 - 07:35 PM

I'm not sure if no one has posted a repair of the priming rod to the PAS or if I just haven't found it; anyways here are my fixes. Everything is post mod, but it's pretty simple.
What you will need:
Some wire coathanger
Epoxy paste or some other strong adhesive that you can sand

To start with, goop a vortex disc to the plunger head. The plastic part fits PERFECT in the brown funnel part (as long as it is not filled in) and I think it might even help the seal a little. Anyways, I did this and I like it.
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Now, plunger rod repair. Mine was snapped right where the bar connects to the catch part. It happened because of a bubble in the plastic. To start with, dremel or drill a hole in either side of the broken pieces. Take your piece of coat hanger and cut it so it can fit in the holes, then superglue the coat hanger bit and the two pieces together. Cover everything in epoxy paste, but you will need to poke around a bit with a toothpick as it dries so that the epoxy doesn't go in the grooves that align the rod in the shell. I coated the inside of the shell with some silicone grease and pressed the drying epoxy parts in the shell to help mold it after it had cured for around half an hour. Once it is cured, sand everything nice and smooth. I used a dremel on the epoxy that was on the rod, because it wasn't fitting through the brown piece.
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Now to the priming bar! As you probably can guess, it snaps at the elbow because it is terribly designed to have the least support at the point that takes the most stress. Take the priming nub that popped off and dremel/drill a groove through it. Pretend that the two pieces are together in your mind or whatever, then drill/dremel a hole in the rest of the bar where the groove would continue to go through. Don't worry about making straight or clean cuts, just don't dremel a too much away because you need to leave enough surface area to superglue these two pieces together.
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Now, drill a small hole up through the nub. Cut a 90 deg piece of wire (I used the trigger thingy from a UMB, coat hanger would work too) to fit in these new spots made. The pic is from before being glued, but just superglue the two pieces of plastic together and get some superglue on the metal too.
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Cover it all in plastic specific putty and then sand it to the stock size; I also added a piece of brass to the bend like so many others have done before.
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I've fired the pas about 50 times with the stock spring and it has been fine, no signs of stress at all.

Supermaxx 1000 Tank Repair

27 October 2011 - 12:29 AM

This is a very easy and efficient way to repair any tank; I've done it with 2k tanks as well.

Start by using pipe cutters and cutting around the middle of the tank or so. I drew a line so I could match the pieces up later, but you don't have to. Make sure you give the tank a good sanding before you draw the line. I can't remember because I did all the steps besides putting it back together maybe a year or so ago, but I think I got bored with pipe cutters and just hacksawed it open. If you use a saw, DON'T GO THROUGH THE MIDDLE! Go around the whole tank rather slowly so you don't start cutting and messing up the spring or the pin.
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Once it's open, it's pretty obvious what must be fixed.
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Yeah, that little arm thing on the rubber stopper snaps often on these old blasters unfortunately. Take the pieces and super glue them back together, add extra glue as desired to strengthen the joints. Alternatively you could look into filling stopper with putty and then drilling and tapping for a eyelet screw. I believe Jlego has done this.
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Alrighty, now that you have given that piece you fixed a good 24 hours to get a full cure, it's time to put this thing back together. Sand the ridges on the inside of the tank and sand the outside (if you haven't already sanded the outside.) Slap some superglue on ONE side of the tank, make sure to goop it all over the edges but DO NOT get any on the rod because it will drip down and ruin the rear seal. Let this get a little gel like by waiting a couple seconds, then push on the other side. Twist the other side while you do this to ensure that the plastic bonds well, and also to ensure that you are aligning everything. I just eyeballed it and it came out fine. Since I used a hacksaw and just randomly put the halves together I had some pretty obvious little holes, but this is not a problem! Just glob a little super glue all over the seam of the cut, and start spreading it around. Stick on the end of a piece of electrical tape firmly and tightly wrap the tank with a wrap, spreading the glue around as you wrap to make sure the electrical tape is bonding well. Wait 24 hours, and you're done!
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This does not weaken the tank as far as I know, I took it to 4 pumps on a plugged 2k pump and it held fine. You can use this electrical tape technique to repair and reinforce all sorts of things too; I broke a lawn sprinkler on accident once and I just followed these steps to put the two pieces back together and it's fine. I've also used this technique to re-attach an xbow grip back onto the body after it was amputated, and to repair cracked plastic in shells.

Well, just thought I'd share this little project. Suggestions, comments, questions, whatever?