Trashmouse

The MJVO-3 is a great valve, but it's really only useful for very specific builds of homemade airguns. You couldn't just "substitute" it into a build where you were going to use a ball valve as a trigger and have it work. It sounds like you had a specific design direction in mind; do you mind sharing details so we can better help you out?

 

I would second Blitz's suggestion of the Mad Ghost design using a PVC check valve, though, if you're not dead-set on something specific yet. There are also solenoid valves (like the one used in cxwq's BAMF design) that have manual bleeds that work like a ball valve but are much more ergonomic.

I've mostly been looking at http://nerfhaven.com...ade-airgun-v10/ Which is your build Ice, but i haven't really built anything myself yet. 

I've been drawing and thinking of ideas because I'd rather not spend money on something that won't work. 

But the QEV blaster and the Madghost seem like what i want to make, which is a compact but decently powerfull air blaster

I usually use a machine screw bolted to the trigger to act as a stop. I'm pretty sure I used something like that on the SNAP-9. Barring that, you can use most anything behind the trigger to limit its motion...I think I've duct taped a chunk of PVC to the handle behind the trigger in a pinch.

 

The more elegant solution is to make a clothespin cover out of another piece of PVC and slide that over the clothespin, which will limit its range of motion. I did that on the SNAP-1mk2, but it was ultimately more work than it was worth. They're just SNAPs, after all, and quick and dirty is the order of the day.

 

EDIT: Yeah, like this. Look at the trigger and you can see the bolt. 

 

 

Thanks for the info. How did I not think of this?!

Awesome work as always 3DBBQ. I'm really eyeing this blaster, but I have a question. Do those gray (PVC?) parts come with the DIY kit or do I have to buy those myself?

Aftermarket springs for blasters are going to be a bit short for most homemade designs, and as such you will have to shorten them to match the shorter spring. Try to go to a hardware store and buy the smaller diameter of "door closer".

 

You'll have to cut one end of it off OUTSIDE while it's sitting in a disposable pan. It's going to barf a handful of grey grease from inside, but you'll find a 19-inch long spring inside that's similar in specifications to most of the springs we use stateside. The downside of this is cost ($15usd) and effort involved. Otherwise you're going to have to shop industrial suppliers.

Thanks for the help slug. I recently moved houses so I might have on of these laiying around in my shed. If not I'll just get one from the store.

Never knew home those door thingies worked

I think mastodon motors are like rival motors: they are strong enough. Just rewire them and put a 2s/3s lipo in them. Just keep an eye on those gears