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Member Since 31 Jul 2016
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Posts I've Made

In Topic: Stryfe Mod - 3D Printed FWC

21 August 2016 - 10:46 PM

I've had zero issues with hot glue holding micro switches. What happened to yours? Daniel (the head of the group, might have been able to help also)


I haven't had a problem using hot glue to hold in a microswitch either, as long as the I modified the shells so that they were both "sandwiching" the microswitch with the hot glue merely acting like something to hold it in place for the shells to do their work.

I took a look inside my Stryfe. The switch is slightly loose, but that isn't the problem. The problem is that I failed to secure a small plastic cover that guides the acceleration trigger. Without that cover the trigger will slip sideways (toward the camera) and fail to actuate the microswitch. I suppose I could put a blob of hot glue on the other side of the shell to press against that plastic cover to keep it from moving.


This project is a major ongoing learning experience. By replacing a relay with a microswitch, I learned that hot glue is questionable (that switch is loose, after all), and I learned that screw holes don't work after being cut in half. I am also learning how to use tools. Hollowing out the battery holder is the first time I ever used a Dremel. When I cut that brass rod, it was the first time I ever attempted to machine anything from metal, and the first time I ever used a hacksaw for a non-destructive purpose. (I have used a hacksaw before, twice to remove a padlock and once to cut a long metal object for disposal.) I feel like I am learning more from trying to modify a blaster in the first place than what I am learning from trying to make my own 3D-printed flywheel cage.

Meanwhile, by choosing not to repair my Stryfe at the war, I gained the opportunity to try a different loadout, which was a Strongarm and socks. Among many other things, I learned how a Strongarm can get jammed, I learned that my throw is an opportunity for improvement, and I am continuing to learn how to be effective in a Nerf war. So far, I am enjoying every aspect of my investment into Nerf and my hope is that I will just keep growing.

In Topic: Stryfe Mod - 3D Printed FWC

21 August 2016 - 01:23 AM

Look up southern md house of nerf on facebook they have a war this saturday

I went to this war (in Waldorf, MD) and had a blast, but not with my Stryfe.  During round 1, I learned the hard way that I shouldn't use hot glue to secure a microswitch.  Fortunately, I had a secondary.  I fought the entire war with my Strongarm and two pockets full of rolled up socks.

In Topic: Modifying a Mega Mastodon

16 August 2016 - 09:11 PM

You like hellcats, don't you?

Could you post a link? Thanks


Here you go. http://www.containme...t-category/mtb/

I chose Hellcats based on the motor database archive and other research.

Why not just print an adapter for the original motor to be usable? The only way it might work would be with fewer teeth on the one gear since that gear is what controls the pusher going forward.

Good news - The original motor doesn't need an adapter. It was a press-fit, secured in the holder by a circuit board.  I was able to press-fit the original motor, with a little etape wedged along the side for an extra-tight fit.

I'd also wager the stock motors on 3S would perform better than Hellcats (more torque, similar FPS), and the stock pusher is no slouch at 3S either. Sometimes motor upgrades aren't worth it haha

Sometimes different motors are not "upgrades" at all.

Stock motors on 3S would be worth testing, however I found that the stock pusher motor on 3S immediately produces a distinctive odor while running. The other issue is that the stock FWC does not seem to provide a means to remove the flywheels. I didn't see any access holes, and I was unable to pry the flywheels loose with a screwdriver. Ultimately, I pried them off with brute force, which left a ring of stress marks around the axle.  I strongly suspect that if I try to remove the flywheels again, they will break.
The only things left for me to do are to (1) add a fuse to protect my lipo (for when the pusher motor burns out), (2) carve out some plastic from the battery tray to make space for the lipo, and (3) bring it to a war for field testing.

In Topic: Stryfe Mod - 3D Printed FWC

16 August 2016 - 06:41 PM

Wow, as someone with a computer science background, OpenSCAD is a revelation. I've been able to make any adjustment I can think of in a matter of seconds having never used it before. Thanks a ton!

You're very welcome!  I remember about a year or two ago I looked at a long list of CAD software and tried to pick out the "best" one.  I have chosen wisely.


It looks like I'll only be able to work on the design on the weekends, so I will be curious to find out how other people improve it.
MAV and DjOnslaught, I wonder when the next war in Maryland will be. Baltimore, NYC, the NJ shore, and York, PA are all within a 2 hour drive from Trevose, PA.

In Topic: Stryfe Mod - 3D Printed FWC

15 August 2016 - 10:13 PM

Any way I could get a look at the project files for the cage? I'd love to move the screw ports around and adjust it to fit in my Desolator.

I guess the easiest way would be to put the OpenSCAD design files on GitHub.  Keep in mind, this is very much a work in progress.  Good luck!