Telerran

So I just finished rewireing my mastodon and since there arent any guides yet I'd atleast give people a starting point. First things first the shell is lightly solvent welded togeather so you'll have to take a knife or flat head screw driver and carefully pry at areas that sick whe you try to butterfly it open. Mine didnt seem to be too heavily glued so it didnt take much force to get the shell appart. After taking a look at the internals for a little bit I was able to figure out that it basically just has rapidstrike internals but with a much bigger pusher mech. As such it is gonna be the exact same wiring as a rapid strike with pusher retraction so instead of making a wiring diagram I am just gonna link to BSUK's http://m.imgur.com/IbI1lG7?r

As far as taking out the extra guff every motor has a small ciruit board on it if you just heat up the terminals of the motors with a soldering iron they should just slip off the motors without causing any trouble. The thermistor is located on the positive terminal of the battery tray. To get to it you do have to remove the pusher mech since it is on the bottom of the tray. All the switches except the one closest to the pusher motor and the ones in the handle are safetys. Heres of picture of the one closer to the motor as reference.

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This is the switch that controls the pusher retraction and I kept it as the stock switch because I wasnt sure how to mount a replacement switch. If you plan on doing the same the white wire corrosponds to 1 in the diagram the blue corrosponds to 2 and the black corrosponds to 3. The picture below is what the internals look like after the rewire.
 

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I am currently running it off a 3s lipo and it hasnt had a problem yet. It seems a bit stronger then stock but I dont have a chrono graph. If you guys have any questions on something I might have missed feel free to ask and I hope this helps.

I've seen a lot of rapidstrike with arduinos in them to make it so they can burst fire or full auto, but I dont really know enough about programing to di that and I came up with this idea.

I plan to try and squeeze in a secondary momentary switch to the firing trigger with a selector switch earlier in the ciruit that switching between it and the original switch. The concept is that with the trigger retraction the momentary switch should stay on long enough to atleast move the pusher out enough for pusher retraction to kick in completing the cycle and firing a dart or maybe a couple depending on how long the momentary switch is active.

In theory this could work but I am posting it here first because I know very little about selecting switches and I dont wanna burnout a ton trying this out. So what I need help with is advise on a couple small momentary switches that should be able to take the abuse from a 130s running on a 3s

My new Drayven (Demolisher Rayven integration) with an angled foregrip from a rebelle gun.

 

Paint: blue vinyl dye with an orange water droplet effect ans black enamel detailing.

Internal mods: a complete rewire with 18 awg wire and rhino 130s running off a 3s lipo

I am also trying to get into commisions so if anyone wants something like this please feel free to pm me. I am willing to do all kinds of integrations if you can think it up I'll make it as smooth as I can

 

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I found an easy cheap substitute for the plunger guide tube in the blasterparts kits.

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It also make converting a retaliator into a recon much easier. And all you have to do is cut down a peice of nerf barrel.

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The back caps tend to be just under 2" so thats the length of nerf barrel you want. Then its just wrapping it in tape till it fits snuggly into the cap. Its simple its easy and its standing up to an 7kg retaliator spring and a stock recon spring just fine.

This project was my second integration. I always loved the Rayven stock but wasn't a huge fan of flywheels, so I wanted to ingrate the stock into a springer and when the EAT hit the market again I thought this was the perfect chance. This isn't a full write up but I think it's got pictures of the important steps so that if you wanted to you do this integration you could use those as a starting point. Also sorry for the crappy picture quality if people are interested I might be able to borrow a better camera for more pictures of the finished project



These two photos show the trimmed Rayven being hot glued to the back of the EAT. The EAT is mostly untouched except for the handle's sling point which I cut off and the cap on the back which I removed for better fit.






This picture shows the putty before I smoothed it.






I know I skipped a step here but this is the blaster after I smoothed out the putty, sanded it, and put a base coat of black vinyl dye on it. I also got rid of the sling point on the shotgun grip because I think it looks and feels more ergonomic without it






Detailed it with a dark blue enamel and gave it an enamel clear coat. Also it's barely visible on the second picture but there is a raven stenciled in on the Rayven magwell






If I missed anything and you guys have questions feel free to ask about the blaster with a reply or pm