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Member Since 05 Jan 2015
Offline Last Active Jan 27 2015 07:40 AM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: 130 vs 180 Pros/Cons

25 January 2015 - 10:21 AM


where did you pull your numbers from

i don't wish to quip back and forth on IMR vs li-po but they both have their places IMR has more uses than just nerf if you vape or have a high end flash lights just as lipo have uses in R/C vehicle and nerf. Yes li-po are the best choice but i prefer IMR.

Where did I pull my numbers from?? Your link shows exactly what I quoted for the efest purple. Two efest purple wired in series would be 7.4v @ 3500mah 32 / 64 and two wired in parallel would be 3.7v @ 7000mah. Thats according to your link.

Specs for the zippy compact 2S 60C 2200mah are shown here
2200mah is 2.2a, 2.2a x 60C (continuous)= 132a.
2.2a x 70c (burst)= 154a

Specs for the zippy compact 3S 40C 2200mah are shown here
2200mah is 2.2a, 2.2a x 40C (continuous)= 88a.
2.2a x 50C (burst)= 110a

My point was only that it seems a bit ridiculous to pay more (or the same) for less... but hey, to each their own I guess.

In Topic: 130 vs 180 Pros/Cons

24 January 2015 - 09:35 PM

I have only done 1 thing to my rs at this point i modded the tray and put 2 18650 efest imr in.

looking back efest makes imr 26650 good up to 64A a 26650 is roughly the same around as a c cell but about 1 inch shorter than 2 c cells stacked so a spacer would need to be used.

btw a 26650 would be 3400mAh so 6800mAh of capacity beats the shit out of the 1000mAh 2s lipo and 30-64A vs 25A most 1000mAh lipo i have seen are 25c you take the c rating times the capacity to get the current dischargeable.

so a 26650 purple efest is roughly 50c.

The efest purple is 3.7v (recommended discharge not to exceed 2.5a)@ 3500mah, two of these would make 7.4v @ 3500mah with 32a / 64a discharge ( or 3.7V @ 7000mah) and cost $25.30

A 40C 2200mah 3S lipo is 11.1v with 80a / 100a discharge (apples /oranges)

OR...... a zippy compact 2S Lipo 2200mah 60C (which will fit in the RS) would be 7.4V 2200mah 132a / 154a and costs $13.28 which is approximately the cost of one efest purple sub C. The 2S would eat the efests for breakfast lunch and dinner and a snack and breakfast the next morning and leave you with almost enough cash to order the BSUK switch and wiring kit. I don't understand why any one would want to go that route. If the sub C's were that great then no RC guy would be running Lipos in their rigs. I have about 12 Nimh sub C packs in an ammo box that never seen the light of day once I plugged in my first lipo pack.

But, regarding the Op's usage and my assumption he already has the IMR batts... they are probably a good choice for just a quick juice up for the basement battle with the younger kids. Cost wise not efficient but to really harness the power of the lipos you will require additional upgrades which probably aren't in his best interest atm.

Last thought, the stock 22 or 23 awg wire can fuse at around 10amps so if you want to juice up in any regard then a re-wire is really recommended. Last thing anyone wants is a slizzling blaster or a battery shorting out and popping.

In Topic: 130 vs 180 Pros/Cons

23 January 2015 - 01:38 PM

I wouldn't suggest IMR batteries at all. Maybe two if you stay stock and do re-wire. Three @ 11.1v on 180's will probably drain extremely fast. I have Xtreme Pro 180's in my RS and use a 2200mah 40C 3S lipo. I will take the liberty of saying I have no experience with IMR Tru$tfire type batteries. I avoided them all together based mostly on what I read regarding their capacities, reliablity, etc.
I left my RS pusher with the OE 130 but I plan to replace it as move into the second stage of my build. Also be advised that anything above 9v is said to cause run away fire problems. With my RS I use a Pololu 9v step down regulator on the pusher and it still tends to get out of control on occasion.
Nothing on the RS is overly complicated. If you want to simplify the process get the Blastersmiths UK switch and wiring kit (I highly recommend), Pop your motors in, run your wires, solder them up... and you're basically gtg.

In Topic: 130 vs 180 Pros/Cons

23 January 2015 - 12:36 PM

I say go 180 or stay stock. There are decent 130's but they cost as much or more than 180's and from what I have read they don't last very long. Three packs of Mabuchi 3240 180's on flea bay for $15 shipped. If you're gonna dig in, may as well make it worth the effort. However, I think for you style of Nerfing you would be better served just doing a wire upgrade and adding a bit of juice.

In Topic: Flywheel Physics Explained

21 January 2015 - 06:49 PM

I have considered the brushless route myself. My plan was to create a simple rectangular plastic motor cage, use readily available aluminum slot car wheels (with the set screws) and trued rubber tires as flywheels (which you can find in almost the exact same size as standard RS flywheels). If the diameter of the wheel bore is too small there should be sufficient room to drill them out / if it is too large I have also found sleeve adapters. The only thing that turned me away was that I have no Arduino experience and I can think of no other way to control a mob of ESC's other than buying a mob of servo adjuster and parallel wiring them to throw the 1ms signal when the circuit is open and the 2ms signal when the circuit is closed. My plan was not for an "afterburner" setup but for a double barrel full out RS which would have had a total of 5 brushless motors. I wasn't concerned with expense but my lack of knowledge makes the cost irrelevant.