Birch

I am going to modify my stryfe and have no intentions of purchasing ultrafires, imr, etc... I want to use RM2 motors from Solarbotics which are good motors, but have some durability issues. I was on their website and saw item number 1117. ( https://www.pololu.com/product/1117 ). These motors are the exact same size as the RM2's, but they're recommended voltage is 6 volts, instead of the 4.5 of the RM2's. I was just wondering if these motor s are going to be any better or more durable than the RM2's. If anyone that understands all the specifications and that stuff and is willing to enlighten me, it would be greatly appreciated.

As I understand, concept threads are not really allowed, but I have just so little desire to actually try it out this idea for myself, I thought I could just tell you my thinking and someone who knows more than me about electronics and stuff could try it out or something.

My basic idea is to move the location of the motors in a flywheel blaster. Doing this, one could in theory raise the revolution speed of the flywheels greatly, without using insane motors or equally insane batteries. By harnessing basic mechanical laws, this design would be able to compete with other plunger-based homemades in range and fps. Here is my basic design:

[/URL][/img]

Locating the motors in the behind the darts allows for their to be a mechanical advantage system of wheels and pulleys. This means I can spin the back motors at a slower or even similar rpm to what is required in a say a stryfe, and achieving much better performance. The motors would need to have really Of course this would add a lot more bulk to the blaster, but it would still be much shorter than a double rainbow, which this would be similar in size to.

The reason I have so little desire to try this out for myself is because I have no where near the amount of cash that would be needed to build this thing, nor do I have the knowledge or the patience to work with something like this. In addition, this thing would require either expertly crafted or 3D printed parts. I would love to see this idea put into practise by someone, and to see if my ideas would actually be practical.

So, I have been making slugs for a couple of years now, I started off using washers and now use ball bearings, but these types of darts are not normally allowed at wars. The first washers I got were #8 washers and it was very hard to get a dart without exposed metal, so I switched over to #6 washers. These, albeit not giving much exposed metal, were too light and didn't shoot the distances the #8's. So I in light of this I switched over to these: http://www.mcmaster....6455k74/=razl3l , and no these darts are not glue domes, they have a felt pad over them, just like a slug dart. These give me no exposed metal, good weight, and are safer than washer slugs, due to their lack of exposed metal. So my question is why do people not allow them at wars if they are, in my opinion, safer that traditional slugs?

Addendum, I have no problems with the weight punching through the head of the dart due to the manner in which I constructed my darts. The order of operations goes: burn hole, hotglue, weight, a little hotglue, while glue is still hot, a felt pad. This procedure encases the metal in hotglue, bonding it to the foam, not just letting it sit in the hole in the foam.

I have read up on stretching foam and related topics, but I still have a few questions. Does stretching the foam make it inconsistant like in the middle area of the foam? And does stretching foam change in any way the longevity of the foam?
I also really like to make and use 3/4 inch darts for fun, so my question is, does stretching foam work the same with big foam, or does it have some weird effects on big foam?

I know these maybe be newbie questions, and I'm pretty sure someone will respond after only reading the above part, Why don't you just buy different foam? The answer is just that I don't want to pay for expensive foam on the forums, plus my parents are skeptical of the credibility of some of you(I don't). I also am just much more inclined of just modifying my current best materials foam because it is really great foam, it just degrades really easily when used it tight barrels. It is very firm and hard(gigity) right off the roll so if I could just make it thinner right off the roll it would be great foam.

Okay so I have a marshmallow blaster that I was repairing for a friend, but the problem is I don't know the orientation of the trigger spring. The reason of that is I got it dissembled. I have tried countless times, but I don't seem any closer to figuring it out. And I know someone is going to ask and yes I have searched all the forums, and didn't find anything. Thank you if you can find the answer!

edit: I figured it out, but I have a new problem. The valve dosen't seal for a whole pump. When I open it up, the valve head is creating a airtight seal with the gasket, but together that seal doesn't really happen. Is it that the spring pushing on the valve head is too weak or is it something else.

the blaster in question:
http://a.tgcdn.net/i...low_blaster.jpg