Jump to content


Member Since 17 May 2011
Offline Last Active Nov 14 2014 01:26 AM

Topics I've Started

ClipTek Overhaul

16 May 2012 - 03:25 AM

Part 1: Plungertube Replacement

Think of this as a jumping off point instead of a definitive way to mod this gun. I got my results through trial and error, and took pictures along the way. You can probably find a better and much more efficient way to mod your ClipTek.

This writeup involves replacing the stock plunger tube (PT) with an AT3K pump head and shaft.

Parts needed if you want to copy my mod:
AT3K Pump + Shaft
Scrap bit (1 inch or so) of PVC or CPVC

Tools needed:
Sandpaper/Dremel sanding bit
Solvent weld or strong epoxy
Needlenose pliers

*Begin writeup*

Open up your ClipTek and take out the plunger rod + tube (PT will have that little yellow thingy on the end of it)
Posted Image

I modded mine (the wrong way) by breaking the yellow piece off of the stock PT. (Ignore NUUN tube)
Posted Image

Now you are going to need to clean out the area where the original PT was. Start with this curved part. Do this on both sides of the shell.
Posted Image

Now this ridge here is tricky. What I did was drill 2 holes, one at each end of the ridge, and connected them, then pulled out any leftovers with pliers. Do this on both sides of the shell.
Posted Image
Posted Image

Now that this area is cleaned out, start fitting your replacement PT. I was originally going to use a NUUN tube, but do the same with whatever you are using as a PT. You will need approximately 3" of PT.
Posted Image

Once your PT fits, figure out where to drill a hole in the bottom. I put the yellow piece back in the shell and marked where it met with the NUUN tube.
Posted Image

I then glued the yellow bit to the back of the NUUN tube.
Posted Image

Trim this wall here so that the yellow piece fits properly.
Posted Image

Now here's a problem: the stock plunger rod doesn't line up with the new plunger tube.
Posted Image

My solution was to buy a neoprene washer with a slightly larger I/D (not O/D) than normal and screw it in off-center. There are easier ways to fix this.
Posted Image
Posted Image

You could stop here if you wanted to. With the stock spring, terribad seal, and no lube, it got same as stock ranges (35-45 feet level). If you replaced the spring, got a proper seal, and lubed it up, you would probably be able to get 55-60 feet.


I had an AT3K pump lying around and decided to use that since it gets a good seal.

Cut 3" off the tube the pipe goes in, keep the bottom for the check valve. Test fit it in the shell like earlier.

Now take your pump and chop off the top part like so.
Posted Image

I cut the very bottom of the NUUN tube off with the yellow bit still glued on, then glued the disc onto the end of the 3K pump shaft.
Posted Image
Posted Image

Make sure your newly glued PT fits inside the ClipTek shell. This next part will solve the off-center plunger rod problem described earlier.

Re-read this part a couple times, I will try to word it properly.

Fill the cutoff 3K pumphead with epoxy or ShoeGoo so that it's slightly overflowing.
Posted Image

Put a scrap piece (inch or so) of PVC or CPVC in the PT. Take your glue-filled 3K pumphead, manuever it into the PT without making a gluey mess, then put the PT back in the ClipTek. Now take your stock plunger rod and align it with the rails on the ClipTek. Push it inside the PT so that it is lined up with the 3K pumphead. The PVC is there so the plunger rod can firmly attach to the 3K pumphead. Press and hold for a couple of minutes. Pic will help explain.
Posted Image

This should be the final result. Notice how it's off-center so it will fit in the new PT.
Posted Image
Posted Image

I am not sure if solvent weld is stronger than ShoeGoo/epoxy. Use whichever is stronger/whatever you have on hand.

You might have to sand down the tracks on the yellow priming handle since they might bump into the new PT.

Now for ranges. 44-52 feet level with the stock spring. That's a definite improvement over 35-45 feet, almost 10 feet. Definitely could break 60' with a stronger spring.

I had a lot of fun working on this, hopefully somebody gets inspired and does this 10 times better than how I did it.

Final notes:
-You can make a shell catcher by arranging a bunch of cardboard cutouts in a box shape, gluing them together, then gluing that to the right side of the shell.
-1" PETG (the Petco stuff) would also work well as a PT replacement.
-This writeup assumes your PT replacement has a solid end (like the stock PT). If it doesn't then cut 1 inch off the stock PT with the yellow piece attached, then wrap it in E-tape or something. This is so you'll be able to redirect air from your PT into the bolt.
-Alternatively you could scrap the stock PT/yellow piece and run a bit of tubing from the end of your PT to this point here on the bolt.
Posted Image
-You could also hookup an airtank quite easily to said ^^^ spot.

ClipTek Dual SSPB Integration (Please close)

08 May 2012 - 09:14 PM

Mods please close this.

Classic Marshmallow Blaster Writeup

31 May 2011 - 08:49 PM

Hello Nerfhaven, this is my first writeup so please go easy on me.

This writeup will show you how to make your classic marshmallow shooter Nerf compatible. SPV999 here on NerfHaven already posted a writeup http://nerfhaven.com...showtopic=17344 . Please refer to his thread if you need an explanation on how this blaster works. I saw his writeup, but it didn't keep the vacuum loading of darts, which is the coolest part of the gun. This writeup will let you keep the vacuum loading.

I would not recommend buying this for any serious nerfing.

All pictures are post-mod but it should be pretty easy to follow.

1x Classic Shooterhttp://www.marshmall...cchk=1&Itemid=1
- Hot Glue Gun
- 1/2" Drill bit. It has the width of a nerf streamline.
- Electrical Tape
- Barrel material

Here is the gun stock. (Minus the RSCB)
Posted Image

First, take these two pieces out of the gun.
Posted Image
Posted Image

Take the back piece and widen the hole so stefans and streamlines can fit through. You are now done with this piece.
Posted Image

The front piece, this is the tricky part.
Posted Image
Posted Image

This flap opens and closes, which makes the vacuum loading of darts possible. You have to widen the hole without breaking this flap. Drill from the front while holding the piece "upside-down" so the flap stays open.

You now have to seal these holes so air will flow out the barrel and not out these holes. The holes are only at the top of the barrel piece. I just took some thin pieces of FBR, wrapped them around the holes, and hot glued over them. Make sure to not let any glue into the holes, which will block the door from opening and closing fully.
Posted Image
Posted Image
Posted Image
Wrap this in E-tape for a better seal.

You can now add a barrel, I used about 3 inches of 1/2" CPVC in a CPVC coupler. I took a streamline and put it through the front piece to center the barrel while I glued it on.
Posted Image
Posted Image

Ranges: This is a pump gun, like the Reactor, so ranges will vary. Streamlines work better than stefans in this gun.

1 streamline I shot went around 80', which was awesome, but it mostly shotguns 2 at a time around 40 feet. My HomeDepot stefans go about 15 feet, with 3-4 being shot at a time. This gun works much better indoors and its not very accurate, but its lots of fun.

Questions, Comments, Flames?