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#355388 Piranha - A Stubby K26 Blaster With a Pulley

Posted by CaptainSlug on 07 August 2016 - 12:20 PM

This performed much better than I was expecting it to at Apoc and I ended up using in a third of the rounds throughout the day. The only issue I had was the hooks on this particular shoulder strap are too small and were bending over time. They came unhooked once or twice and I had to reverse them to get it from happening again. I'll need to switch to more robust hardware.


It was also very amusing to have to demonstrate its function to everyone as it befuddled pretty much everyone that looked at it. No amount of explaining functioning was a substitute for them just seeing it work.


Unfortunately I did not get to take a video of the function while at the war. So here's one from tonight.


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#355347 "Knifty" Wye

Posted by CaptainSlug on 04 August 2016 - 09:44 AM

Going off of what Aeromech suggested I decided to try this and it worked just as well as machining a "knife" out of polycarbonate did. It's also way more repeatable and takes less effort and adjustment.


Step 1: Drill a small hole in through the flat area on the dart supply end of the wye. I'm using 1/16" stainless steel weld rod so I drilled this hole to .067"

Step 2: Cut a 1-1/2" to 1-5/8" long piece of weld rod.

Step 3: Feed it through the hole until it bottoms out.

Step 4: Using a pair of long needle nose pliers, grab the inside end of the weld rod and push it forwards in the wye until the opposite end of it is no longer sticking out of the top side of the hole.


You end up with a slightly curved ramp of stainless steel that serves the same function that the knife did. It will also prevent the darts from suction loading into the plunger tube.



BONUS STEP 5: Use the end of the nail to retain a strip of teflon. Making your hopper much more compatible with silicone-tipped darts. You can adjust the location of this strip as-needed. Mine are typically leading ALL the way up to the back of the barrel itself.


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#355261 Piranha - A Stubby K26 Blaster With a Pulley

Posted by CaptainSlug on 29 July 2016 - 11:33 AM

Full-length K26 blaster with a 12-inch plunger tube, 6-1/4" draw, and a hopper.


Template Set





Total length is 19 inches. It's a normal Rev.3 Plusbow catch only in reverse because the catchplate is ahead of the frame plate.


The end of the plunger is a rod clevis holding the eyelet of a 1/16" braided steel lanyard. The lanyard loops around a pulley and back through the eyelet of the priming shuttle.


The slack in the cable whether primed or not is held tight by a rubber band to prevent whipping. The shuttle is returned to the forward position by a bungee, so it's a non-reciprocating handle.


I had originally intended to use a side-mounted handle, but this setup with a shoulder strap ends up working way better. With the strap looped around the opposite side of my neck then back forward under my right armpit I can prime the blaster by just pushing forwards on the grip by 6-1/4 inches. Returning the stock to the well of my shoulder allows the shuttle to slide forwards to its resting position.


In the end I now have a full draw K26 blaster that I can completely utilize with only one hand. Reloading the wye takes place right in front of my face with the blaster hanging from the shoulder strap.


The tee is there in the event that I want to single this blaster and breech-load the barrel using a hole door.


Thanks to: j_cobbers, PANIC, and Ryan#########


Will be updated with a full template set and partlist this weekend.

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#355146 Bullpump: Tag-Team Collaboration

Posted by CaptainSlug on 22 July 2016 - 02:59 PM

This is very similar to the Bullpump's that others have made (particularly MakeItGo), but we both felt that a write-up and public files for this type of blaster is overdue. I have other things I'm working on before this, so BLITZ going to take the leap and will follow-up with me or here if he runs into any problems.


I just did the CAD work. He is going to build the prototype and post his progress here.








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#355115 Trishula: 3 rods and 3 kinds of springs

Posted by CaptainSlug on 20 July 2016 - 06:49 PM

The plunger is basically just backwards from a usual springer. The rod is used to push it against the spring instead of pull against it and they're attached together (unlike the PCSR). The back of the plunger head only has a spring alignment piece.


The o-ring is the seal against the plunger rod.


Here's an exploded view of the redirect.



If you want to use this in a PCSR all you do is make an identical plug that lacks the o-ring seat, then screw the two together face-to-face. Or better still wedge a frame piece inbetween them and mount a grip to it.


I'll slap together a slotted pipe concept of this blaster tonight or tomorrow.


Here's the draft. I managed to design it without slots.


If you're not color blind, you're about to be...


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#355107 Trishula: 3 rods and 3 kinds of springs

Posted by CaptainSlug on 20 July 2016 - 12:21 PM

I don't want to take over snakerbot's thread so let's move this here.


Support for Constant-Force Spring pair (21lb total draw).


Support for ESLT extension spring.


Support for any 11-inch compression spring.


The plunger rod is pushed backwards into the plunger tube by the foregrip.


Redirect piece attaches to the backside of the grip frame.


Redirect piece is a pipe coupler, pipe plug, and a polycarbonate disc to act as a stop for the plunger head. The barrel output is a 5/8" hole with a 1/2 CPVC stub glued into it.


Trigger is the same as a plusbow Rev.3, just backwards and on the opposite side of the grip frame piece.

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#355015 Extension Spring Lettuce & Tomato

Posted by CaptainSlug on 15 July 2016 - 11:46 AM

Anything with a 1/2" shank will fit a 1/2" chuck. You can get end mills down to 1/8" with a 1/2" shank.


And any kind will do. Plastics really only require that the end mill is sharp, and spiral is generally better than straight. So you can buy a cheap set and they will work fine so long as you only use them to cut plastics. The milling isn't the hard part. The hard part is holding your part securely in the vice while you're machining it since it gives and will want to climb out of the vice if you're not careful. If you're cutting plastic tubes is sometimes best to just load the inside with a wood dowel or expanding rubber mandrel.


Just think through what you're trying to do before you do it and be ready to stop the feed at a moments notice should something go funky.

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#355007 Booger Wye

Posted by CaptainSlug on 15 July 2016 - 09:57 AM

Preface: This thing isn't working perfectly. Darts feed through it too easily and I'm currently getting double and triple-feeding issues. This is however something I have wanted to try making for a long time and it really only involves a 45-degree conduit elbow.


Step1: What the fuck am I doing?

Step 2: No really, this looks retarded. But if I go slowly it seems to be working. 1/2" 4-flute end mill in a lathe drill chuck where it doesn't belong.

Step 3: Huh, it worked.

Step 4: Using Dykem Steel Red Markup Layout Fluid to see how much of the 1/2" OD aluminum tube I need to sand off.


Step 5: Sand sand sand, check fit.

Step 6: Use lathe and drill chuck on the 1/2" OD aluminum tube as well as some rubber bands to keep all the parts in alignment.

Step 7: Apply Super Super Glue for a temporary hold, then tip the part over so the excess glue doesn't work its way inside the elbow.

Step 8: Make a CPVC piece to slip over the aluminum. Had to drill out the CPVC and sand down the aluminum because we want a nice fit that won't require too much force or we risk braking the super glue joint. If it does break take everything back to the lathe and use it as a fixture again.




Step 10: Let it cure overnight. Also make sure to put it in a cabinet with someone else's cereal so that when they come in the next day they get a face full of glue fumes when they open it.

Step 10: Plug in the other parts and test it.


Step 11: Shoot more darts that you intended to every time.

Step 12: Get frustrated with Wye hoppers because they only work perfectly in certain very specific proportions.

Step 13: ????

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#354976 Extension Spring Lettuce & Tomato

Posted by CaptainSlug on 13 July 2016 - 08:00 PM

So I don't have a 3D printer. I don't plan to ever get one because unlike you shlubs I have access to a ton of machine tools at work. So Nyah Nyah.


Anywho, the ESLT is an interesting doohicky. I've been putzing around with one in CAD for a few weeks and I made a ton of changes to the original design. So here are the keynote changes.


Number 1: PumpGrip slot is cut all the way out the front of the "Front Tube". The slot is kept stable by two keys added to the BarrelSpacer piece. This piece also includes a "tongue" that the Spring Post attaches to. This single feature makes disassembly much easier because the PumpGrip never has to be taken apart. You just undo two screws, slide the BarrelSpacer and Spring Post out then the PumpGrip is free to slide out whole. The only remaining task that's still a pain in the dick is getting the Spring Post back through the hook in the extension spring while the extension spring is under load. I may have to make a specialty tool for that purpose.


Number 2: Multiple Extension Spring Pre-Load positions. Pretty simple and provides the option to tweak performance a little.


Number 3: No Eye bolt. The front end of the plunger rod is using a 4" length 5/8" Hex aluminum spacer. The spring is held by a rod clevis cut into the end of the spacer with a screw acting as the cross-pin. Rod clevis connections are common on Air Cylinders.


Number 4: Large opening in the bottom of the Front Tube to allow for expedient servicing of the plunger rod and to apply more lubricant if needed.


Number 5: CTS 1/2 CPVC pipe Drop-Ear Elbow. This ensures that the elbow holding the barrel stays in alignment with the rest of the blaster since it's mounted directly to the frame itself and ensures that the elbow doesn't back out either. If you need to remove the elbow you just back out the screws and pop the elbow off. Easy-Peasy. These are also offered in threaded versions with a soft gasket.


Number 6: No specialty threaded rod for the plunger. I'm using an aluminum 1/4-20 threaded rod, but I've encased it in a thin wall 5/16" OD stainless steel cover. The joint between this cover and the threaded rod is sealed at the front of the plunger head using hot glue.


Number 7: 2-inch ID Plunger Tube!



Number 8: Just taking a second to brag about my solid black delrin ReDirectPiece.


Which has a single retained O-ring for the plunger rod.



Still working on making a Hopper for this thing.

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#354870 Plastic Safe Lubricants

Posted by CaptainSlug on 08 July 2016 - 10:08 AM

OP updated, might as well sticky this.

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#354868 "Knifty" Wye

Posted by CaptainSlug on 08 July 2016 - 09:27 AM

This setup seems to be feeding silicone dome darts fairly well so long as they don't exceed 1-1/2" in total length. But I'll have to war-test this to be sure. I've made three of these and one of them got a little mangled in the process of cutting the corner so I cut it in half to make a cross-sectional model.


Red: I used a Burr Bit to cut the inside of the corner inside the Wye. Alternatively a small round rasp, pocket knife (curved blade), or a dremel sanding drum could all be used. Remove as much material here as you can.


Blue: This is a "knife" made out of 1/16" thick polcarbonate that acts as a ramp. Other plastics could be used and the shape really doesn't need to be very thick to work. It also prevents suction-loading and makes backing a dart out through the supply tube much easier.  Template The SCH80 stub behind it has a slot cut into it to accept the tabs so that the "knife" can't rotate out of alignment after the stub is glued or screwed in place.


Flute: I drilled out SCH80 CPVC to 5/8", then drilled half inch deep with an 11/16" bit (to match the ID of the Wye). I then used the Burr Bit to smooth the transition between the sizes. Then used a knife to clean up the rest. And lastly I cut the top side at an angle so that it doesn't impede the inside of the corner.

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#354829 Hole Door

Posted by CaptainSlug on 06 July 2016 - 03:42 PM

Hole Door


Hole Door


Hole Door




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#354691 Plusbow Rev. 3

Posted by CaptainSlug on 30 June 2016 - 08:48 AM



Plusbow Rev.3 Guide


Instructables Mirror


Design Goals

  • Reduce Part count
  • Two Options for Plunger tubes and Plungers (+bow or 2-11)
  • Omni-directional catch
  • Spring guide to remove "serpentine" behavior
  • Ease of dis-assembly
  • Limit screws to two lengths (1/2" and 1-1/2")
  • "Check Valve" Plunger head
  • Use of extension springs or rubber bands for catch (multiple configurations possible)
  • "Ultra-Compressible" O-Rings
  • NO MORE INTERNAL CUTS, that means no pilot holes, no feeding a scroll saw blade through a pilot hole. Every cut can be done with a scroll saw or a band saw.

Total Build cost: $70 (for one plunger tube type)

Sunk Cost per Plusbow: $25



Thanks to: Splitlip, Aeromech, Ryan McNumbers, Groove, CrankyMonkey, VACC, and TED

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#354552 DCHAP-3

Posted by CaptainSlug on 25 June 2016 - 07:24 AM

I don't know how I would make them fair to use at a war without a chronograph and maybe some security screws.


I'm really only doing this to tinker, though I would like to make something that can shoot foam balls and absurd-size stefans a good distance and the first DCHAP did that really well. It's only downside was how cumbersome it was. If people find legitimate uses for these parts then that's the whole point. Homemade Air guns have never been popular at wars.


My favorite primary of all-time was the BuzzBee Big Blast and If I can find a way to make one of those from scratch I would be tickled pink.


They'd prefer all-metal rated fittings, and I can't fault that. It's just super expensive to do.

And heavy.

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#354543 DCHAP-3

Posted by CaptainSlug on 24 June 2016 - 08:23 PM

I found this link: http://www.sscentral...eck_valves.html


The stem valves used in that article can be bought in bulk lots on eBay, and you end up only paying $0.30 to $0.50 each.

If you marry it with a cut-to-length spring and add the required pipe fittings you end up with a check valve that costs $2.

eBay - 1-1/2" Tire Stem Valve (TR414)	$4.14 for 10 ($0.41 each)
9663K85	302 Stainless Steel Cut-to-Length Compression Spring, 20" Length, .750" OD, .062" Wire Diameter = $5.42 (Cut a 2-inch section for $0.54)
4880K432  SCH40 White PVC Pipe Fitting, 3/4 Socket Female x 1/2 NPT Male, Reducing Adapter	$0.55 each x 2 = $1.10
2-inch long section of 3/4 SCH40 pipe = $?.??

The check valve design is great, but the only draw-back is that it looks like it would have a restrictive output. That issue inspired this, which is an updated version of DCHAP-1 with a scratch-built pump and a more normal grip and trigger.




The pump is inside-out. You move the outer tube over the plunger head and check valve in order to pump it. To accomplish this the M-F adapters and NPT coupler have to have their faceted sections sanded off.


I need to build and test the pump first. I'm not currently sure that the o-ring-based check valve on the plunger head will work. If it doesn't then I'll just stick another $2 check valve onto the end of the pump handle. The alternate course to take would be a ball pump.


Another item in the cards for this project is that I would like to make an adjustable over-pressure valve using the same parts.


Here's the part list for the above diagram.


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