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Member Since 02 Nov 2007
Offline Last Active Apr 20 2013 07:35 AM

Topics I've Started

Daedalus Iii

15 June 2009 - 08:28 PM

So, this was supposed to be done like 2 months ago. I decided that this should go in the Homemade subforum this time, all thats the same on this version is the shell and the catch. Everything is brand new for this build, nothing was used from Daedalus II. Where the upgrade from Daedalus I to Daedalus II was about range, this one is all about keeping that range and increasing the durability and repairability of my favorite blaster.

The build:

I've never done a real write-up before for this blaster, I think its fairly self explanatory. Let me briefly review what I did.

First off, you gotta cut down the shell. I used a dremel and a scroll saw to do this. Just cut in the general pattern that you see here, and remove anything that would obstruct the plunger tube. I suggest using a scrap piece of 1" thinwall to test for clearance.
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Plunger tube
You need: 1" Coupler, 1" to 1/2" reducer, 10" of SDR 21 (thinwall) 1" PVC, small metal bar or music wire.

To build the face, take the 1" to 1/2" reducer and look at how the inside is tapered at the end. Cut off that taper so there is a flat surface for the plunger head to contact, as shown below.
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Then drill your little hole at the end for your dart stop. I use 7/64" music wire, you can do whatever makes you happy. Below
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Done. Now grab up that coupler. There will be a little ledge in there that makes it so the pipe only goes in half way on both sides. Grind that out.
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Ledge ^
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Ledge gone ^

Now, throw some glue on the reducer and hammer it into one side of the reducer. Take your 10" or so of thinwall PVC and do the same on the opposite side, making sure that the PVC goes all the way through and is touching the back end of the reducer. I messed this up the first time and it was a bitch to prime and got lower ranges.
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Plunger head/rod
You need: 3/4" Square nylon: Mcmaster #8732K13, 6-32 tap and #32 bit, 3/4" OD #6 washer: McMaster number 98264A100, aluminum spacer: McMaster #92510A700, Reinforced rubber washer: McMaster # 90131A104, 2" and 3/4" 6-32 screws, nylon or rubber spacers.
Mkay, this is a little more tricky. Get some square nylon, cut it to size according to how long your plunger tube is. Drill and tap one end for #6-32 screws. Then, cut the rubber washer down to fit the 1" thinwall, this is a little tricky, just be patient and measure carefully and you should be able to get a good seal. Then, put the aluminum spacer inside the washer, then assemble in this order over the 3/4" screw: 3/4" washer, rubber washer/aluminum spacer, 3/4" washer. Then screw that onto the plunger rod after putting your spring on. I used a cut down plusbow spring, McMaster #9637K26.
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Then, drill and tap a hole on one of the sides at the opposite end. Put the plunger rod through the catch and into the blaster, then put your spacers on the screw and thread it through the hole. This will be your cocking handle.
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Then, pull the plunger rod back, full draw, and mark how far the draw was on the rod. Then, take the spring off the rod and one half of the shell off. Place the plunger rod as far back as it went and look at where the catch is touching the rod. Cut your catch notch there. Then put it back together and test it. If it catches, good, if not, try cutting the notch deeper and/or more forward.

Then, just drill holes to put 2" 6-32 screws through in the back to attach the plunger tube to the shell, and throw some E tape on the front just for extra security. When its all said and done, you should get something that looks like this:
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Ranges are similar to previous models, around 90 or 100 feet flat, however this one feels a lot sturdier than previous builds. This is likely the last version of this blaster, I am finally totally satisfied with its construction. Questions, comments, concerns?

Sof-schenectady, Ny

07 June 2009 - 06:13 PM

Season of Foam Nerf Out, Schenectady, NY - July 29th
Woodlawn Elementary School
3311 Wells Ave, Schenectady, NY 12304

This is the proposed site and date for SOF Schenectady. While the date is fixed, the location is not, and I need to have numbers so that biofreak2 and I can begin to decide where exactly this is going down. The proposed location could accomidate 20 or so nerfers, but if numbers are going to be higher, we're gonna have to check out some alternate locations near by. I will put pictures of the proposed site up too some time this week. Let me know who's in and who's out.

Definitely attending:

Wardog clan(hosts)

Maybe attending

Misc. local kids 2-4

At3k Faceplate

22 January 2009 - 05:09 PM

You know how when you single an AT3k you get that huge hole in the front of the shell? Like this:
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Well, I made a template for a plastic piece to cover that hole. The hole in the center should fit a 1/2" PVC coupler.
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The total size of the image is 3x3 inches or 216x216 pixels at 72ppi, make sure that it is being printed out at that size.

Then, cut it out:
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And glue it on:
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Then you're all set for sanding/painting. Of course, where I am its freezing outside, so it may be a while before I get to that. I know this isn't much, but I think that it looks much more finished than before. I would make a 2k one also, but I don't have access to a singled one.

Nbn A-1

06 December 2008 - 09:51 AM

Commission work for one of my clan members led me to finally have enough interest to design and build my first homemade(not including the +bow). It is inspired by the SNAPbow but is a little different.
Body shot:
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Plunger rod setup:
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Plunger head detail:
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Clothes-pin trigger:
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Vulcan Safety Removal

12 October 2008 - 02:53 PM

My Vulcan broke a while ago, and I finally actually fixed it today. I also removed the safety that stops the chain door from opening while there is a chain loaded. It can be a major pain to open it up if the blaster jams during the course of battle. I won't go over taking the Vulcan apart, there's other threads for that. Here's how it goes:
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Here is the switch that shuts the Vulcan off if there is no chain.
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Tape it down, and put the orange piece that was over it back on.
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Take the chain door and open it up.
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Here it is, disassembled. We want the little nub that contacts the switch, and holds everything shut. Take the bar off, two screws hold it on, to get to the nub.
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You should be here. Take the spring and plastic nub piece out and put it back together. Reassemble the Vulcan.
Now the door will open and close freely. To prevent it from popping open and dropping the chain randomly in battle, I took some polycarbonate and made a rotating strip. If I want it closed, I rotate it over the door. Then I can quickly rotate it around to open the door, instead of fussing with the door and having to force it open.
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Questions, Comments, Concerns?