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Gunblade Build

It's a Gunblade that actually fires unlike Squall's oversized

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#1 b00m13

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Posted 30 July 2007 - 07:52 PM

EDIT!! Adding a Video!!

I can't aim for shiet...

Welcome curious readers!

You're in for a wonderful treat because today we're going to build a Gunblade!!

Crowd: YaY!!

I got the idea to make one when my friend asked me if it was possible.
I was going to start on making a Masamune out of a 4 foot piece of wood I had left, but making a Gunblade meant I would have a sword and a gun... so I scrapped the katana project.
He sent me an image of the handle he designed a long time ago for art class, and after a 3 earlier sketches, I've settled on one design.

(This was the gunblade my friend designed years ago.)
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To make it, you'll need to give up my MOST HATED GUN, the Hornet... which is a heavy piece of pure crap.
It weights several Mavericks yet fires only the same amount as 1. It has an annoying recocking mechanism which will hinder your shots useless if you forget to cock it after every pump. It's hard as hell to remove the AR since the tube is glued into the 6 bladders AND it's a pain to even open the gun's shell casing.
The only plus side it has is that it's great for spare parts, you can make 6 guns out of just 1 stupid Hornet!

You'll also need:

LOTS OF SCREWS (at least 26)!!
Lots of 1/4" boards of wood (usually ranging from $.90-$1.80 a piece at Home Depot).
X-acto Knife or Razor Blade or Box cutter.
Epoxy
Paint (Spray paint if you want, but I prefer hand painting the wood since you get a better control over it).
Dremel or Rotary Tool
Crayola Barrel or 1/2" copper tube
1/2" PVC tube
a chain
common sense
and some imagination~


First off, we're going to build the skeleton of the gun
Look at the picture below (Stolen from Renegade's Hornet post)
The parts you'll need are the ones outlined in blue.
TAKE THEM OUT!! Pieces ABC has to be sawed off, but Piece D you can just unplug it.

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STOP FOLLOWING THE INSTRUCTIONS FROM THIS POINT ON IF YOU WANT TO MAKE YOUR OWN GUN FRAME!!

Okay, now that the easy part is done, the real challenge begins.
Now we're going to be making EVERY OTHER PART of the gun.

I'll start off with the barrel.
Make the cuts/openings/breech as big as you need to fit your bullets in. (Mine was a 2" opening with a 2.5" crayola tube inside it, you can use copper if you want to, but it'll weigh your gun down)

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To make the frame of the gun, you'll need to place your gun skeleton+barrel on a piece of board and trace the outline of it, now that you have an outline, just draw how you want the blade (mine was a Machete, you could make a broad sword, or katana, whatever you want), angle you want the handle (I tried a 30 degree angled handle, but it looked too much like a rifle, so I raised it to a 10 degree angle).
You'll need to place the screws in the following locations.
2 in the barrel. (Front and back)
2 on the side of the blade where the 3 pieces of wood meet.
5 under the bladder area (5 around the triggerless trigger section)
4 around the fire button
6 under the handle
4 above the handle
2 in the end piece holding the pump in
and 1 in the middle of Piece K (locking the uppder handle with the middle section of the gun).

Here's my frame from the side view

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and here's the top view (Letters were placed to help you match up the side and top, and the measurements are of how thick that section is)

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That part will take your a LONG time, so you better be patient,
When you're done with the frame, you are almost home!!

Here's a wood cutting tip I've used plenty of times.
(The second pic is actually how I made my handles)

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To sharpen the blade, you need to first sand it down until both sides of it curves together.
I suggest you sand it by hand or a power sander so it'll be more even.
Then to sharpen the edge, here's a simple to make tool that will help you.
(Hold it vertical and sand it that way first, then when it's really thin, tilt the tool more horizontally for a SUPER thin sharp edge.)
To help you sand that block of wood you call a handle, just sand the edges first, give it curves if you want (I make the middle of the handle thinner then the sides). Then follow the steps in the bottom section of the diagram to make a fingering tool.

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IF you are actually up to this step, then HOLY FREAKIN CRAP you are Hardcore my friend.
To attach the chain, you just need a single bolt/screw.
Drill a hole on both sides of the end of the plunger, insert the chain, and screw in the bolt (Finished)
That's the super fast way, but if you got a minute, then I'd suggest you saw a small slit at the tip for the chain to freely move down (Look at pics for reference).

The final step is pretty slow... but it's more exciting then watching paint dry.
It's painting the gunblade!!
Take the gun apart (That's a lot of unscrewing)
For the barrel and bladder and air release button, I spray painted it aluminum colored (closest color to steel). Make sure when you're painting you have all breeches, buttons, plungers covered with something, tape, etc. or else!!
The rest of the gun I hand painted in black, except the blade which was hand painted in aluminum.
The Hollow Skull on the side of the blade is just a symbol of a Shinigami Rep. I took from "Bleach".
It's made out of a very tough painter's "oat tag" (dammit I forgot how to spell that word...)
I'd suggest you either put a symbol that you'd like or none at all (I only did it 'cuz Hattori Hanzo did it with Beatrix's sword.)

If you get up to here, then please allow me to put on a hat so I can take it off to you.
That was an exhausting couple of weeks eh?
And now you have a kickass piece of eye candy.

The ranges
with 2 pumps the pic was a typo, it's and easy 40 ft straight (hit the floor at 50 ft)
when it's plugged, with 3 pumps I got an avg of 55-60 ft
and since I didn't want to push it any farther, I left it at 3 pumps only.

Ah, before I forget, here's a bunch of pics of my Gunblade

Posted Image

Why a Gunblade?

heh, but in all serious now, I did it for the same reason anyone does, to hopefully be immortalized in the directory~ *cross fingers* maybe this time :rolleyes:

In case you're wondering the name of this GB, I'm calling it "Christine" after my friend.
Why? 'Cuz she's one badass mutha that don't take lip from no one!!
She once beat the **** out of some girl on the train for insulting her for being AzN, hehehe.

Edited by b00m13, 05 April 2008 - 09:53 AM.

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#2 Falcon

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Posted 30 July 2007 - 10:00 PM

NICE. VERY nice.

First complete gun I've ever seen basically fabricated out of the guts of another one. Even just the gun itself is quite the ambitious project, and accomplishment. I can see the standalone gun being adapted into all sorts of integrations. Great work!
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#3 Shorty

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Posted 30 July 2007 - 10:34 PM

uhh...its unique. but sure ok. :D
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#4 General Cole

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Posted 30 July 2007 - 10:47 PM

I want to see you build one before flaming. Then I'll shut up.
We should stop calling out/making fun of/pissing GC off. He's actually contributed and is available for trade. He's a better than average member no doubt. Got your back Cole.
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You know what... I know it's kinda late... but Props Cole.
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#5 Nerf Nerd

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Posted 31 July 2007 - 09:14 AM

Whoooooooa... Dude! That is fantastic! The instructions are so easy to understand. The pics are great too! This is by far the greatest write up i've ever seen.
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#6 b00m13

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Posted 31 July 2007 - 07:02 PM

Hey guys I wanted to add something.
If you decide to make a pointy blade or something. There's a pretty good chance it'll snap off easily if it's too thin (Which is why I chose to make a machete since the tip is very thick). When my friend asked me that, that's what I replied, but then he told me that he saw a documentary on early man (Cavemen?). He said that they solved that problem by holding their sharp wooden spears over an open flame and letting the fire blacken the wood, he said that by doing this process it'll greatly help strengthen the tips of pointed/thin wood. I'm not a wood expert, but if there is someone here that is, maybe they can confirm this.

PS I added a Wood Cutting Tip pic to the guide.

Edited by b00m13, 31 July 2007 - 07:09 PM.

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#7 Senor Wolfwood

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Posted 31 July 2007 - 08:53 PM

Wow man. Just wow. I finally have a use for those busted hornets....wonderful. And I really like the Bleach theme. Awesomes.
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#8 Prometheus

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Posted 01 August 2007 - 08:17 AM

So that was that secret project... very cool.
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#9 zaphodB

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Posted 01 August 2007 - 11:28 AM

V2 should be double barreled.
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#10 b00m13

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Posted 29 August 2007 - 10:37 PM

There ain't going to be a V2!

And bump for the video I just added!
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#11 six-five-two

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Posted 30 August 2007 - 01:08 PM

Watching the video now. Holy crap! You actually used a headset? That's pretty asian. However, I can hear it alot better.

Edited by six-five-two, 30 August 2007 - 01:11 PM.

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#12 Z-man12

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Posted 30 August 2007 - 03:13 PM

Well after seeing that viedo I think I need one of my own. :blush:

So when I finaly attack the hornet for some parts of a project I am going to do. I am going to take one of the blast chambers and do this with it.
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#13 six-five-two

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Posted 31 August 2007 - 02:27 AM

Yeah this is making me want to take apart my hornet aswell. I just don't want the parts to be in a box with all my other homemades I never finished.
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#14 Prometheus

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Posted 31 August 2007 - 09:06 AM

If anybody is looking for an extra hornet, or a hornet period, I have one to sell. PM me if interested.
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#15 six-five-two

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Posted 31 August 2007 - 03:11 PM

Hey b00m13 I was looking through your instructions, why do you have to make some random cuts in some pieces?
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#16 b00m13

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Posted 31 August 2007 - 11:43 PM

Oh that's to help the epoxy hold better. It was a while ago so I can't remember the name of who, but someone wrote a guide on how to make epoxy hold better, and those cuts allow the epoxy to grab onto the materials (They wouldn't hold as well if the surface was flat, because there'd be nothing to grip onto).
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#17 six-five-two

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Posted 01 September 2007 - 12:37 AM

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Sorry for the quote, but since this is the second page I thought it would be better than going back a page...

b00m13, I just saw every one of those parts off? Just like that? I kinda have a feeling my gun isn't going to work properly.

Edited by six-five-two, 01 September 2007 - 01:36 AM.

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#18 b00m13

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Posted 01 September 2007 - 04:13 AM

It'll work. I've done it 3 times already. Just make sure every step is followed exactly. Remember to use the right angled air chambers, because the 2 that has the tube sticking straight out is too thin. You can use those, but I recommend the right angled air chambers/bladders.
Also, do you know that problem that occurs where if you plug the pump and over pump it, the button gets harder to press and you kind of have to force it down? I think that problem occurs only if you have vinyl tubing connecting Parts A+B to Part C. Because The 3rd time I made this, that's what I did, since I wanted the air bladder farther from the trigger. When I over pumped it and pressed the trigger button, I'd always leave the + mark on my thumb (I haven't installed the thumbtack button yet).
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#19 six-five-two

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Posted 01 September 2007 - 05:17 PM

To anyone that is trying to make a gunblade:

Posted Image

When I first cut that piece, it was flat, no indent like that. So I tried cutting more and I kinda hit an o-ring or something. So now I gotta reglue and tape my cut back (I cut the thing halfway) just letting you guys know there isn't anything like that... well with my hornet there wasn't.

Or am I supposed to cut past that o-ring?


EDIT: I started this mod at 2pm... it's now 11:42pm and I can't continue unless b00m13 gets online and helps me out! Arrrg!

Edited by six-five-two, 02 September 2007 - 01:42 AM.

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#20 b00m13

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Posted 02 September 2007 - 02:45 AM

There shouldn't be an O-ring there at all, the black rubber you're probably seeing is the rubber stopper. Just pluck it out of the orange piece since you wont be needing it.

On a personal note, I would have responded sooner but I was at Atlantic City today... then I got Ashley's autograph at Hooters (AC's regional champ). Damn she's a powerful H-girl... at the gift shop I just wanted a Calendar... but then they sent her over and before I knew it, I ended up buying the T-shirt and a $9 deck of Hooter's poker cards (she signed her card... content's not fit for kids). Tee-hee-hee, I got Ashley's autograph and I came out with more money, I was wrong... gambling rocks!!
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#21 six-five-two

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Posted 02 September 2007 - 01:07 PM

...So your saying I should cut through the whole thing or just open it up the crack I cut in and just pull out the stopper?
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#22 b00m13

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Posted 02 September 2007 - 04:25 PM

Okay, I'll try to explain what piece B is to piece A.
It's just an attachment, which will allow you to connect a vinyl tube to the under section of piece A.
Try to think of piece B as a sort of "Cap". Its purpose is to cover the bottom of piece A, if it doesn't fit around piece A, then sand the insides down until it fits piece A.

When I cut piece B out of the hornet, I just used a tube cutter on it until the top section of piece B was gone.
Refer back to Ren's pic, with the blue outline for an idea of where/how much to cut.

In the end, PIECE A has to fit in PIECE B.

Then you can attach a vinyl tube to the bottom of Piece "AB".
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#23 six-five-two

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Posted 02 September 2007 - 04:56 PM

Hmm, this is going to take a lot of sanding... and I don't have a dremel. Well, better get started. Thanks.


EDIT: Oh my god boltsniper is reading this!

Well now I get what you were saying b00m13. I cut off the whole top and now I can see how you would put piece A into piece B. So I am guessing this is how the gun works:
Pumping up the gun leads air to piece AB. Piece B is like an elbow piece connecting the pump to piece A. Piece A is the trigger section. And piece C is where all the air leads out to the dart, propelling the dart forward. Right? or wrong?

EDIT2:
Okay well I have another question... how does piece A fit into piece B? You say piece B is like a "cap" for piece A and fits over it, but you can't fit piece A into piece B because the part of piece A that connects to the barrel is flush with the bottom part. So you could only put one side of piece A into piece b. I also tried sanding down the part leading to the barrel but it still isn't enough.

Edited by six-five-two, 02 September 2007 - 05:22 PM.

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#24 b00m13

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Posted 02 September 2007 - 07:48 PM

You had it on the nose on your 1st Edit.

I'm confused about what you mean at your 2nd edit though.
Yes piece B is like a cap. It caps itself on the bottom of piece A.

The MS Paint diagram should answer your questions, check part "B", that sounds like where you're up to.

If you're still having problems... then take some pictures of what you are having problems with.

Even though Piece B is as you said an elbow part. It doesn't even have to be used if it's too complicated, if you have another tube connector, you can attach it to the bottom of piece A if you can figure out how to seal all the leaks.
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#25 six-five-two

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Posted 02 September 2007 - 09:06 PM

Sorry if it's a bit unclear. Thanks for taking the time to help me out though.
Posted Image
I was trying to say that there the piece that connects to the barrel on the trigger part is flush with the bottom of it, as seen pointed in the picture, thus... not really possible to put piece A inside of piece B. I even sanded down the piece leading to the barrel but there still isn't enough room to put piece A inside of piece B. Hope this helps.
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