20 replies to this topic

[DTReaper]

The MPSP is my newest homemade in my series of guns. This is a Snap based gun with my own characteristics.
Here it is:

What you will need to make this beast of a foam firing weapon is
-1 and 1/4 inch PVC pipe (outer shell)
-1 inch PVC pipe (for one part)
-2, 1 inch PVC to 1/2 inch PVC reducer (for catch and end piece)
-3/4 inch PVC pipe (pistol grip)
-2, 3/4 inch PVC to 1/2 inch PVC reducer (For inner parts and plunger head)
-1/2 inch PVC pipe
-1/2 inch CPVC coupler
-angle iron
-washer with OD about that of 3/4 inch end cap
-#6 1/2 inch pan head screws
-cloths pin
-25 LB spring
-1 and 1/2 inch neoprene washer

Part 1 Front end cap
Materials
-1 inch PVC to 1/2 inch PVC reducer
-1/2 inch PVC pipe
-super glue
-dremel with sanding drum and cut off wheel
-electric tape
OK so what you have to do is cut a piece of 1/2 inch PVC pipe the length of the hole in the reducer. Then you glue that piece into the reducer using superglue. It should look like this

Next take your handy dandy dremel and using a cutoff wheel cut the back part of the reducer off. Now using a drum sanding part for the dremel sand the inside of the 1/2 inch PVC pipe till you can fit a piece of 1/2 inch CPVC inside of it. Now add some electric tape around the outside of it till it fits snuggly inside the 1 and 1/4 inch PVC pipe. It is now complete this is how it should look


Part 2
This is the other end cap and will serve as a hold for the plunger part.
materials needed include
-3/4 inch PVC end cap
-1/2 inch CPVC coupler
-electric tape
-PVC cutters or hack saw
-hot glue
-drill with bit set
-dremel with sanding drum
Take your end cap and cut a hole in the end of it using a bit that will fit a piece of 1/2 inch CPVC into it the more centered the better but it doesn’t need to be perfect. Here is what it looks like

Now take your coupler and using PVC cutters or dremel with cut off wheel cut the coupler in half but leave one side with the actual divide seen inside of it. it looks like this

Save this piece for later. Take the piece without the divider in it and take the dremel sanding drum and get it so a piece of CPVC will slide through it easily but it must be able to keep the piece stable. Now wrap the coupler in electric tape till the outside matches up with the inside of the end cap. Place it inside and the glue it in with hot glue. It is now done and looks like this

Part 3
This is the inside coupler bit that holds the barrel and stops the plunger form exploding out the front.
Materials needed
-1 inch PVC pipe
-3/4 inch to 1/2 inch PVC reducer
-1/2 inch CPVC coupler
-superglue
-dremel with drum sander
-PVC cutters or hacksaw
Ok this piece is relatively simple take the leftover half of the coupler from part 2 and dremel the outsides till it fits into the 1/2 inch side of the reducer. Using superglue secure it. Next dremel the inside of some 1 inch PVC pipe till the reducer fits inside it. It will now look like this

Then cut the reducer down to the part where the 1/2 inch section ends. Add some layers of electric tape till it fits snugly and set this piece aside for later. This is the finished part


part 4
The plunger is probably the most time and labor intensive part of the entire gun. It will take many parts and is the main piece of the gun.
materials
-1/2 inch CPVC and PVC pipe
-1 inch PVC to 1/2 inch PVC reducer
-washer with OD about that of 3/4 inch end cap
-3/4 inch to 1/2 inch PVC reducer
-3/4 inch PVC end cap (rounded top is preferred)
-1 and 1/2 inch neoprene washer
-# 6 1/2 inch pan head screw
-small washer to keep the screw and neoprene wash on
-superglue
-dremel with cutoff wheel and sanding drum
-drill with drill bit set
Ok ill divide this into 2 separate to keep it simple
The first part will be the plunger head. To make this you take the 3/4 inch reducer and the 3/4 end cap and you first need to cut them down to make them smaller and lighter. Cut down them about 1/4 of an inch each and then so the fit together evenly. Glue them together using super glue. they should look like this

Now take some 1/2 PVC pipe and cut it to the insert length of the reducer on the 1/2 inch side. Glue this in with super glue and dremel out the insides so that 1/2 inch CPVC can snuggly fit inside it. Now comes the tricky part you must mark the center of the end cap for the drill hole. I just guesstamated it and used permanent marker to mark it. Drill with a slightly smaller drill bit then the screws and using the drill, drill the screw in with the neoprene washer and small wash inside it. It should not look like this.

Next part takes a while for me due to the lack of parts at my home depot but you may have more luck than I do. If you don't using a drill bit like this

Drill out the inside hole in a washer to the OD of CPVC pipe. It’s simple but gets annoying if your clamp doesn’t work well. Now take your 1 inch reducer put a length of 1/2 inch PVC pipe inside it as all the other times before and dremel out the inside till it snuggly fits 1/2 inch CPVC. Now cut down it so the part with the 1/2 inch piece is in is all that remains with the nub part. Now this also takes awhile to do dremel down the outsides so it looks almost like a dome. It should look like this now

This second part is now done. Now to put them together you will need a length 1/2 inch CPVC pipe to connect them. Put the plunger head part on first. Super glue it on and push the CPVC all the way on till it bottoms out. This is how it should look

Next figure out the length you will need I got roughly 10 and ¾ inches of it. This can be trimmed at the end but this is a good starting point. Now take the washer that you bored out and put it on first next the other piece with the curved part facing away from the plunger head. Now you want to get it as close a possible but still have room for the catch nail. So give about 3/16ths of an inch and this is only an approximation for my nail. Use a little bigger amount than you nail that you plan on using. Now super glue this thing in place and make sure you got it right the first time because super glue works very fast.

Now if you want to add a small bead of hot glue around the inside of the washer to keep it there. The completed part will look like this.

Sorry having problems with picture limit





Now the spring needs to be prepared the spring comes in a pack of two and we will be using 1 and a half of them so you need to take your dremel and cut one in half. They should now look like this


Now put the springs on and then put on the end cap part 2 to it and you’ll have completed all the internals.

Congratulations you completed the first step
Next is the outer part that holds all of these and the trigger mechanism (ie. carbons trigger type or clothespin trigger).
materials
-1 and 1/4 inch PVC pipe
-1 inch PVC pipe
-epoxy
-PVC cutters or hacksaw
-drill with drill bit set
-sand paper
-hot glue
-4 #6 1/2 inch pan head screws
-Nail (preferable a strong one)
-angle iron
-clothespin
Ok this is one of the easiest parts but requires a lot of precision drilling and time due to drying. First cut two lengths of 1 and 1/4 inch PVC pipe to 9 and 3/4 inches. After this you need to mark out where the internals are and where the catch hole will need to be drilled so mark out the parts with it next to the shell. The catch hole for mine was about 3 and ¾ inches in but this may vary so be sure to measure it out. With it all marked out the next phase can begin. First put all the parts inside it and the drill two holes into part 1 and part 2. Like seen in the picture below

(note ignore the holes and only concentrate on the blue permanent marker)
Note these holes are not all the way through the part and are just pilot holes for the screws that are now needed. Now screw the screws in and then take them out. Now we need to glue in the stop plate AKA part 3. Put in the plunger and end piece (part 2) and have this screwed in. Now make sure the plunger is in with the springs not bouncing around but also not compressed so just on the border. Now take your hot glue or if you really want to super glue and glue this in making sure it is in there mildly well. As seen in picture

Now put the other end piece in and screw it in. Now comes the trigger mechanism. It is basically a carbon based clothespin trigger mech so it is really easy. Now take your clothespin and cut it down and drill a hole in it as seen in the picture

Now take your angle iron (while any piece of metal with a bend will work I find it’s easiest to use an angle iron found at your local home depot) and your nail. Using the dremel and cut off wheel cut down the nail to about an inch this should also be created to your gun however because if its too long it will hit the spring if its too short it won’t catch or will have trouble catching so a happy medium needs to be found. Now take your sand paper and sand down the angle iron and nail and bottom part of the clothespin. This will ensure good bondage with the epoxy. When the epoxy dries it will look like this

Now we need to drill that catch hole so take the shell part with all the internals and take a drill bit a bit bigger than your nail and drill into the area calculated on your markings. Now this may need to be drilled again because I have found that sometimes the nail catches on the inside of this and have troubles. Now take your entire catch assembly and hot glue it on the shell and the nail in the hole as seen below be sure to be liberal with the glue and round those edges because rounded edges take force much better than globbed edges (this is actually true thank you intro to shop class).

Now once this is dry and you want to try it go ahead this is a good time to see if it works and if you need to make adjustments.
Troubleshooting for this part
Problem: The nail comes out and gets stuck
Solution: This is natural and will happen but if it isn’t going back in smoothly then you will need to break out the drill and drill out the hole for the nail a bit. Not a bigger size mind you but just use the bit and angle it so it removes some of the inside PVC
Problem: the plunger isn’t accelerating fast or nearly fast enough.
Solution: add lube I personally use stuff for paintball gun o-rings because I have it but some other common lubes I have heard of is silicon spray (however I find this is more of a short term solution), vegetable oil, and soap. Now I’m not saying any of these should be used over the others use whatever you want these are only suggestions.
(if I encounter any more problems at this stage I will give you solutions or if you need help I will help you and add it here)
Congrats you have completed the basic gun now for the lower receiver
This part also takes a bit of time to get done and also needs attention to details.
Materials
-1 and ¼ inch PVC pipe
-1 inch PVC
-3/4 inch PVC pipe
-Balsa wood
-#6 ½ inch pan head screws
-epoxy
-sandpaper
-drill with bit set
-dremel with cut off wheels and drum sander (or a hacksaw and file if you don’t have a dremel)
-hot glue (and lots of it)
Ok so now we begin the lower receiver. This Part is last but still important for the gun it incorporates your handle and covers the trigger mech. I will divide this again into two parts first is the cover. Take the length of 1 and ¼ inch PVC for when you made the shell or if you didn’t read well before cut a length of 1 and ¼ inch PVC the same length as the shell. Ok now take this and match it against the back and see how big you need to make it. This will need to allow the trigger to move yet still not be too big. I find it best to size it up by eye and go for a little bit small because that’s what a dremel is for. But if you don’t have one go for a bit bigger. Ok now that you have measured it now draw lines in permanent marker along the sides like seen below

This is where you need to cut fairly simple so take out the dremel with cutoff wheels and begin cutting (note to all those kiddies out there Wear fucking eye protection these cut off wheels shatter and fly all over the place at high speeds. While these places could be harmless it could also be your eye and that wouldn’t be pleasant now would it). After you finish cutting it out now you need to make the trigger hole. Mark it with a permanent marker and cut it out using your dremel. Now you need to make it look nice so you’re your dremel or file whichever and sand down the sides of it so it only contacts the shell at one point and makes it look better over all. This is what it will look like

Now you need to fit this and I know what your thinking electric tape no, no electric tape. This is a beautiful thing we are making not a rag tag thing so you need to make supports for it so bust out the 1 inch PVC pipe and cut two pieces of it about 5/8th inches across (this isn’t exact just a rough estimate). So now you need to attach these so take your cover and place it on the shell in the location it is going to stay. Now if you don’t want to hold it there while you measure you can use electric tape temporarily secure it in place. For you inexperienced this is a good idea. Now you may ask why I didn’t you do this when you were making the shell and my answer is simply this it is much easier and more effective to do it this way as it gets a much better fit. Now take the pieces of 1 inch PVC pipe and match them up against the side and mark them where it intersects the shell and stays within the cover. Here is a pick of me doing this

Repeat this for the front and back with the two pieces of 1 inch PVC pipe. Now don’t confuse these two parts if need be write F and B on the parts. Now cut off the part that is not needed. Now I find it easy to get it right on the first time but if you want to you can make it a bit big so you can sand it down to fit the sides of the shell better. Now mark on the shell where these two pieces will go you want them about ¾ of an inch in form the sides. Now roughen up these spots with sandpaper so the epoxy will adhere well to the surface. Now epoxy these pieces on and make sure you do it right it’s a pain in the ass to redo. Here is a picture of it

While you wait for your epoxy to dry this is a perfect opportunity to make your pistol grip. So this is the second phase. Get a length of ¾ inch PVC pipe (while I use this because it suits my hands best you can use whatever you like to make it hell I don’t care if you use 2 inch PVC if it suits you but here is how I make them). Ok so take your ¾ inch PVC and cut it into 2 lengths and cut the ends at an angle to give it a better look (unless you like the straight vertical grip in which case ignore this step). Now match up the pieces next to each other and mark where they match like so

Now take one and cut it vertically and so more is on one side then the other. Arrange the pieces so it goes fat half whole piece the skinny half in that order and glue them together. It will look like this

On now once this is dry take your hacksaw and cut off any uneven edged at the top and bottom so it looks uniform and like a pistol grip. Now take the top part and get you dremel and sand it down with an angle like the cover has so I attaches better. Ok once this is done get you cover piece and attach the grip just behind the trigger hole and use hot glue to secure. Glue the contact points the around the base of it then down the middle of the whole PVC tube in the pistol grip. When attached it will look like this

Now once the epoxy has fully cured it is time for the next step. If there is any epoxy that seems excess or you got it where you didn’t want it then it’s a simple mistake and you can just sand it away. Now place the receiver over the parts that it was meant to be placed on and figure out where the 1 inch piece is underneath it and mark these with a permanent marker. Now get your drill with drill bits and get a bit that is just a bit smaller than the screws and make two holes in the back one approximately at 60 degrees and 120 degrees with the middle of the shell as the center. Now put the two screws in these and now drill a third hole in the front one at the center and put a screw in this. Also if you want to you can add a layer of balsa wood to cover the front and back holes in the lower receiver and on the bottom of the pistol grip. They will look like this


Now there is one last thing that needs to be done go get a metal clothes hanger. Now drill a hole about the size of the diameter of a clothes hanger wire into the plunger part sticking out the back. Now estimate how long you want your pull back part to be and cut it to length (this varies from person to person so you decide) Now get some sort of foam padding to put on it a pool noodle will work or maybe some FBR. Now use some electric tape and strap it on there because it hurts to pull back without it.

CONGRADULATIONS you gun is now done to the basic amount.

Now if you like to have your gun “pimped out” these are several things you can do
1. Paint nothing doesn’t love a good paint job I recommend krylon fusion it’s designed for plastics its what it does
2. A trigger guard I don’t like them but if you do knock yourself out
3. Sights while some don’t use them and others get caught in holsters the might look cool or you might actually use them
4. a holster useful efficient and cool

This is only the production part of the gun it's all basic and not painted ofr now. But wait and in like 2 or 3 day the gun painted and looking really good so just wait for awhile for it.
Any questions or comments?

-DTR

Edited by DTReaper, 01 July 2007 - 07:34 PM.

[The Crackerjack Man]

Nice work, besides the blue marks good job. What are the ranges, sorry if that was written I would of over looked that.

[DTReaper]

You didnt overlook the ranges I havent officaly range tested it yet because its dark and I want to do it right. But i would say its in the range of 75 feetish. And As I said the blue marks are temporary until I paint it up and detail it in the next 2 to 3 days.

-DTR

Edited by DTReaper, 01 July 2007 - 07:48 PM.

[Carbon]

Nicely done. I like how you built the handle on a lower receiver...it'll make it easier to get to the clothespin if you need to. It brings the sort of modularity that the GNS has to the SNAP...very cool. Although, I wonder if hot glue will be enough to hold on your handle. It always fails on me...sometimes sooner, sometimes later, but it always does. If you roughen up the surface you're attachng it to, super glue will work very well. I haven't had a handle fall off since I strated using that. (It's what Boltsniper uses).

Also, what do you think of the trigger at the front of the pin, as opposed to back by the pivot? I tried it that way once, but never in a full size version. Does the lever action feel weird at all?

[DTReaper]

Nicely done. I like how you built the handle on a lower receiver...it'll make it easier to get to the clothespin if you need to. It brings the sort of modularity that the GNS has to the SNAP...very cool. Although, I wonder if hot glue will be enough to hold on your handle. It always fails on me...sometimes sooner, sometimes later, but it always does. If you roughen up the surface you're attachng it to, super glue will work very well. I haven't had a handle fall off since I strated using that. (It's what Boltsniper uses).

Also, what do you think of the trigger at the front of the pin, as opposed to back by the pivot? I tried it that way once, but never in a full size version. Does the lever action feel weird at all?

It doesn't feel weird at all. The reasoning beheind it is that with the trigger the other way I was having problems with it misfiring. And I Have had no problem with the hotglue because I put alot down the center of the PVC pipe so It holds really well. Like half a stick or more of it works quite well.

-DTR

[SHADOW HUNTER ALPHA]

Nice. Not very visually appealing while unpainted and with the

Although, I wonder if hot glue will be enough to hold on your handle. It always fails on me...sometimes sooner, sometimes later, but it always does. If you roughen up the surface you're attachng it to, super glue will work very well. I haven't had a handle fall off since I strated using that. (It's what Boltsniper uses).

You could also fill the grip with Bondo and drive screws into that, as one other member did on a boltsniper gun.

P.S.: In the text right above the picture of the neoprene washer-covered plunger head, you typed "It should not look like this," and I'm assuming that's a typo because it is shown exactly the same in the picture with the complete plunger assembly.

[Carbon]

You could also fill the grip with Bondo and drive screws into that, as one other member did on a boltsniper gun.

That would be Ompa. Yeah, since the handle is on that lower part, it opens up all sorts of attachment options.

P.S.: In the text right above the picture of the neoprene washer-covered plunger head, you typed "It should not look like this," and I'm assuming that's a typo because it is shown exactly the same in the picture with the complete plunger assembly.

Yeah, I was assuming it was supposed to be a "now".

[DTReaper]

Yes it was infact now I thank you for catching that and it is now fixed. Also The hot glue is fine it only broke one time and that was because someone syepped on it. So it is fairly strong and holds well.

-DTR

[deaddumpster]

Overall, it's a very good job. As Carbon said earlier, it brings the modularity the GNS has for the SNAP. But, for a gun that's overall easy to make and gets good ranges for what looks like a small amount of money, you did an excellent job!

PS. How much DID the gun cost anyway?

[DTReaper]

I believe it cost under 10 dollars or near that for one gun. However to get all the parts needed iwould probably cost in the range of 20 dollars if you didnt have the pieces of PVC needed.

-DTR

[deaddumpster]

That's awesome. I just might get some money together and gather some shit to build be one of these! It looks so much like the SNAP and GNS that the cosmetics make me want to build one! Of course, painting it colours is a rather big thing, since 80% of my wars are outdoors and the cops would cap anyone's asses if they see it in dark colours.

Good job, you should be proud of what you made !

[Prometheus]

Very detailed write-up. I found it incredibly long, which is good, as a monkey could build it with instructions like that. I don't think anyone can screw it up with those instructions. Nice.

Yo, deaddumpster, where in Ontario are ya?

Edited by Prometheus, 03 July 2007 - 11:13 PM.

[deaddumpster]

I agree, very well done. I think I'm going to the hardware store today, so I'll start getting some things, though I'm really just getting some piping for my NF since I haven't done that in a while.

PS. Prometheus, I live in Cambridge, about 100km south of Toronto.

[DTReaper]

Thanks for all the replys guys. sorry its taking me so long on the paintjob but I have been really lazy lately and it is the the fourth of july and I went boating all day long. So that ate up my whole day but I will try to get it done before the end of the week.

-DTR

[downsouthwithanf]

i love it! its like the gns by bolt, nothing against bolt but this seems alot easier

Edited by downsouthwithanf, 04 July 2007 - 07:23 PM.

[DTReaper]

Well this is what you have been waiting for. I finally got off my lazy ass and got to painted the guns. So without further ado I give you AEQUITAS and VERITAS. The twin pistols. The referance incase you didn't catch it is from Boondock Saints. I painted both guns with krylon fusion black paint then used testors white paint to paint on the symbols. So here is what you all waited for some gun porn







I plan on putting on a coat of clearcoat to protect the white paint on it. Also the writing on the sides are correct to the movie. Because in the movie AEQUITAS is written on their right hand and VERITAS is written on their left hands. Oh and on a side note I guess I was wrong one of the handles broke off while I was painting so you were right I was wrong. Next time I should probably roughen the surfaces of the PVC or something like that.
So more questions or comments?

[deaddumpster]

Holy shit man, that's incredible! Now, the GNS is standing out the most in looks? The names at first reminded me of Ebony and Ivory, the two handguns used by Dante in Devil May Cry. I really want to build one of these! Approximately how long is the gun and how long did it take you to build?

[DTReaper]

It took me about 4 hours probably not including drying times for the epoxy. But I can't say how long for sure because everytime I did one step I had to come up from my basement to take a picture. But four hours is a good estimate I would say if you did it nonstop. However I may be making about 10 more of these and sell them on ebay.

-DTR

[deaddumpster]

Ebay hmm? I just might buy one off you if I have some money at the time(my birthday is coming up and I'm usually rich after that). If you do get to building 10, how much would you sell them for, because if I get one of these and my shotgun fully designed and built, then it would be a brutal weapon combo.

PS. I hate epoxy drying, it takes too long. But I usually work on another component while it dries.

[DTReaper]

I don't know how much I would sell it for but really my making 10 guns really depends on the interest level of people. However if it is just low interest I still might make some but not nearly so many. But if anyone really wants one just post here or PM me and depending on that I might make some.

-DTR

[Pineapple]

I don't know which of you remember the LGLF, but Langley had a pair of SuperMaxx 1500's with those exact same names. And they were quite lethal, according to legend.


Nice pistolas, DTR. My big SNAP is on hold for now (too busy @ work), but that looks like something I ought to take a swipe at, also. Good stuff.



-Piney-