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Stock Ls Breech Petg Barrel Addition

Finally, it's alive!

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#1 bpso86

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Posted 10 June 2007 - 10:58 PM

Well, here it is. Keeping the stock breech on the LS has been discussed many times around here, as I've noted. I finally got the balls to take my beloved LS under the knife again today and came up with this brilliant idea! So, I'll make this a pseudo-writeup, since I am not taking this guy apart again just to take pictures of the insides.

Materials Needed:

-12" (ish) section of 1/2" thinwall PETG from visipak. I used the thinwall, which is very loose on streamlines. This is a plus since the seal between the breech and the barrel isn't perfect, but it still adds exponential range over the stock ls barrel.
-x-acto knife
-e-tape
-spray paint of your choice (for marking the petg)
-hot glue
-dremel w/grinding attachment

Procedure:

First thing to do is obviously open up your LS. I will refer to CS's internal picture of the LS here throughout the post:

Posted Image

Once the beast is opened up, remove the stock barrel and the muzzle. For this mod, we will be keeping the dart chamber and using that as well as the dart tooth.

Next, take out the plunger chamber/bolt assembly and the dart chamber. Things get a little fuzzy from here.

Now, the next part involves a little bit of trial and error. First, take your petg, place it inside of the dart chamber and slide the bolt up into the dart chamber. This will show you where to position the petg and how much you need to shave down off the bolt. The bolt has to be shaved down a good amount in order for it to smoothly slide over your newly placed petg.

Once you've test-fitted the petg and shaved the bolt to accommodate the new barrel, take the entire assembly (new barrel in dart chamber+bolt/plunger chamber) and put them together as if the bolt were closed with a dart in it. Now, take your spray paint and spray a small amount into the hole where the dart tooth slides into. This will give you the area that you need to cut out with the x-acto knife for the dart tooth to remain functional.

Remove the petg barrel and use the x-acto knife to cut a section about 3-4mm wider than the spray painted area. This is to accommodate for the two prongs on the rear of the dart tooth. Make sure to test fit the barrel and make sure the dart tooth slides in effortlessly.

Now, wrap some e-tape around the petg and slide it in place for yet another test fit. Try sliding the bolt in place over the petg now. Notice something? The e-tape on top has prevented it from sliding in! Well, take your x-acto knife again and cut off about 1/6th of the e-tape (make sure it's wide enough to fit the bolt through) on the top of the petg. Once again, test fit and test assemble to ensure the proper bolt action is preserved.

Finally, place everything together, test fit/test assemble once again, and if you've lined everything up correctly, it's time to hot glue it in place. I used a nice ring of hot glue around the front of the dart chamber to ensure that the petg stays put. Place the front end through the muzzle, wrap it in some e-tape so it stays centrally located, and replace everything.

Now, before you go pumping/firing quickly, make sure that the darts move into the petg barrel effortlessly. Once I had mine assembled I had to sand down the front tip of the bolt so it slid over the petg easier. But, if everything looks good, load up a dart, cock it (slowly) and fire. You should notice a hefty increase in accuracy, and a little range due to the improved seal.

Pictures of it assembled:

Side:
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Front:
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Breech open:
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Top view of rear of petg barrel:
Posted Image

Videos:

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Before any of you ask, I haven't range tested and probably won't. This is by far my farthest firing, hardest hitting, most accurate weapon that uses stock ammo now. And besides, my two measuring tapes only add up to about 70 feet, which I doubt is enough. If anyone absolutely REALLY needs pictures of the fabrication process, I guess I could try to take it apart again... but it would be a royal pain. Let me know if you guys have any questions.

Edited by bpso86, 11 June 2007 - 08:57 PM.

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#2 watkins

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Posted 11 June 2007 - 12:05 AM

Clean, simple, efficient. I plan on doing something similar to my LS as soon as I get some barrel material. Im very glad to know that it does indeed work. Good job.
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#3 Sypth

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Posted 11 June 2007 - 03:03 AM

You and Forsaken have inspired me to do this.
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#4 rebsol

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Posted 11 June 2007 - 06:35 AM

Cool. What dart are you using in the picture of the dart in the breech?
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#5 bpso86

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Posted 11 June 2007 - 06:38 AM

There is no dart in the breech. The petg looks milky there because I had to grind it down a little so the dart slides in smoothly. This particular LS uses streamlines though.
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#6 monkey with a nf

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Posted 11 June 2007 - 06:38 AM

Wait- why did you keep the dart tooth in? It will just make you lose air and push your dart into the bolt, where it can jam on the bolt/barrel connection.
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QUOTE(Pineapple @ Sep 12 2007, 03:13 PM) View Post

For maximum efficiency?


1. Pump up. Count how many pumps.

2. Keep going until you hear a loud "bang".

3. Subtract one pump from the total. Rebuild your air bladder.


There you go.

#7 bpso86

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Posted 11 June 2007 - 12:42 PM

Wait- why did you keep the dart tooth in? It will just make you lose air and push your dart into the bolt, where it can jam on the bolt/barrel connection.



Well, first of all, the new barrel is very loose on the streamline darts. The point was not to increase range, but to increase accuracy. I left the dart tooth in so that the darts would be pushed into the bolt. If I took it out, they would be shoved into the loose petg, and we all know that loose barrels + springers = bad. And once again, as I said in the original post, it does jam occasionally, but if you're not completely abusive and make sure the darts line up before cocking it, then it will be fine.
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#8 Team Slaya

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Posted 11 June 2007 - 07:14 PM

Oh, jubilations! I actually did this, but not to the extent that you did, a month or so ago. But I didn't figure out where my seal problem was. You ABSOLUTELY answered that question. Well done, well done.

If Forsaken can add this to the mod list that'd be great.

TS
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#9 bpso86

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Posted 11 June 2007 - 08:58 PM

First post edited with firing vids. Second vid is firing into a sheet of printer paper, but keep in mind these are stock streamlines with no weights added. I actually got a dart to go all the way through from about two feet away after I finished the vid.

Enjoy!
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#10 Prometheus

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Posted 12 June 2007 - 12:14 AM

Nice and clean. The way a well crafted mod should be. Three thumbs up.

Edited by Prometheus, 27 September 2007 - 09:40 PM.

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QUOTE(VACC @ Jan 24 2008, 06:12 AM) View Post
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#11 mp130

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Posted 12 June 2007 - 01:56 PM

I did almost the exact same thing with mine, only I made the bolt push the dart into the barrel, which is apparently a little tighter.
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QUOTE(DJRayza @ May 2 2007, 04:31 PM) View Post
the range is to that of a midget hurling a small cow

#12 bpso86

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Posted 12 June 2007 - 02:41 PM

I did almost the exact same thing with mine, only I made the bolt push the dart into the barrel, which is apparently a little tighter.


Yeah, I thought about doing that, but my petg was a little loose, and I also didn't trust the new seal I'd be making. This worked out well though, and the seal turned out better than I expected. When firing, the dart is about 1/3rd of the way into the petg barrel and 2/3 still inside the stock "bolt" barrel.
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#13 AJAQ

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Posted 05 July 2007 - 02:19 PM

Just so everyone knows, the PETG can easily shatter in a longshot.

I recently did this flavor of barrel replacement, and shattered two sets of PETG.

The feedback vibration from the spring hitting the plunger housing will "jam" into the PETG, causing it to crack, then shatter.



Still looking for a way around this.
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#14 Guest_yourface_*

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Posted 05 July 2007 - 03:55 PM

Way around it: Use brass.

Seriously.

You can get 3 feet of brass for 12 dollars on McMaster. It's not very expensive. I'm sure PETG is cheaper, but it shatters...

If you are bent on using PETG, I suggest putting foam on the front of the plunger head. Posted Image
Like that. That's a picture of the plunger head from Forsaken_Angel24's Pump Action Shotgun mod, level 2.
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#15 Quilan Fett

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Posted 05 July 2007 - 08:24 PM

My petg is expensive at $4 for 3 ft. Brass is $3 For 1 ft. Enough said.
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QUOTE(pokemaster @ Mar 3 2009, 04:18 PM) View Post

hasbro in a nerf war!!!!! dude the will cancel it and confinscate are guns

#16 Guest_yourface_*

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Posted 05 July 2007 - 09:05 PM

Oh. You definitely want the gasket foam, then.
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#17 loafersofdoom

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Posted 06 July 2007 - 09:54 PM

Very cool. I had a similar idea a few months back and used a foot of 9/16 brass instead. I also flipped the action upside-down to make a single shot bolt action. I got ranges that ran about ten feet or so short of the LS I Angel Breeched more recently.

I wanted to come up with a gravity fed drum magazine for it, but after a few emails with CS about magazine physics, I determined it was to hard for my skill level at the time and it got put on the old back burner untill it got scrapped for parts.

Posted Image

Posted Image

The zip tie is there to hold the pin in the new holes I drilled. Sloppy, I know.

Posted Image
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#18 Kalentar13

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Posted 27 September 2007 - 09:23 PM

Brilliant. I'd been searching for a brass barrel system that I could build. This is going to be a lot better.
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#19 zaphodB

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Posted 27 September 2007 - 09:41 PM

OH BOY! I get to say it!

Don't necro shit. seriously read the code of conduct.
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#20 six-five-two

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Posted 27 September 2007 - 10:33 PM

The original needs some more pictures, I think this is the solution to my Longshot air leaking problem, but I just don't understand it without pictures!
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