Open up your sneak shot, here are the internals minus the mirror thing.
Remove everything except for the plunger tube, the trigger, trigger spring, catch and catch spring.
You can now throw all that stuff in the garbage or hold onto it for some random reason you may need those piece
in a future modification.
Lets start out easy. The plunger system.
Now take out your plunger tube and cut off that little ring on the end where the air flows out. Wrap the remaining nub with E-tape until it fits snug inside your barrel of choice. I chose 4" of OMC's petg. After the barrel is on straight and snug give it a light coat of plumbers goop to ensure their will be no leaks.
Now you will need to shave down some peices of plastic to make way for your new barrel. I used a dremel for this part.
I replaced the existing spring with an industrial spring. Industrial spring is on the left.
Then do your basic srpinger modifications.
-E-tape around the plunger head.
-Relubed the plunger head/tube with O-ring lubricant.
-Replace catch spring with a stronger spring to prevent misfiring. (Only needed if spring is replaced.)
Now I had a few parts in bins I wanted to get rid of.
This next bit gets a bit complicated.
You will need:
AT3K: Pressure chamber.
SM3K pump and pump tube + vinyl tubing that comes with the Sm3K's pump tube.
Alright first you need to shave down a bunch of things to make everything fit properly.
Now this next part is tricky. Take your Sneakshot priming bar and take your SM3K pump.
Cut off the head of the pump and hollow out the inside. Make sure that the hole of the SM3Ks pump has been plugged with hot glue. Now cut and shave down the end of your Sneakshot priming bar so that it fits snug in the head of the SM3K's plunger tube. Glue it in there good and sturdy.
Sand down all the little nubs along the yellow priming bar.
Now cut down your SM3K pump tube so that it fits in the rear of the gun.
Align the pump tube and the Sneakshot priming bar and give it a shot. If it works and you can hear the valve honking you know it will work. I drilled a hole in the bottom of the stock, This allowed the tubing from the end of the SM3K pump to become external. Close the gun and see if the shells can close. If they cannot you must have missed sanded something down. Now if the shells do close, hot glue your pump tube into place.
(Also make sure that the trigger and spring gun still work after you close the gun and have the pump tube in place. I had to re-arrange it a few times.)
So now your secondary firing mod is %50 complete. You should have a gun that can pump using the old priming handle but the air doesn’t go anywhere. Take your AT3K Pressure chamber and chop it down to the same size shown in the video. (The video is at the end of the write up.)
Drill a hole in your gun for the tubing to go into.
Now set up your pressure chamber with a 6" petg barrel.
You will need to drill a hole in the front of the shell to make way for a second barrel poking out.
Now you will need to sand down a bit in front of where the trigger is to make way for a second trigger.
Take 2 pairs of pliers and bend the firing pin into a "U" shape. Glue the Pressure chamber in place when you know it is going to be straight.
Now take some flexible picture framing wire and tie a couple knots on the firing pin and a couple other knots in a key ring that will be protruding from the shell of the gun.
Once finished doing those the internals should look like this.
I then gave it a paintjob. The paint is a sparkel brown that has a weird grit feeling to it.
As an added bonus I took some extra pieces of petg and made ammo holders out of the existing ones.
Each ammo holder holds stefans facing away from each other. This allows the wielder to hold 4 extra darts.
Range: Sneakshot: 69 feet
Integrated SMAT3K: 89 feet.
Here is the video.
Sneakshot Modification video.<----- Click here.
What do you guys think?
Questions, comments?
