147 replies to this topic

[Liam]

angel...you've created a true work of art.

[shadowkid33]

Sorry to resurect the old topic, but Angel, hoe did you glue the bolt sled onto the brass? I've used everything, HotGlue, Epoxy Putty, Fishing Glue, but NOTHING works. Any suggestions?

[nerfboi]

Thats what happend to me. It toock me a whie to find out. I have this glue called "Plastic Surgery" It's holding up pretty well. But I'm pretty sure Fishin' Glue woudl work though.

[blister]

I used plastic weld epoxy and it hasnt failed me yet.

[nerfboi]

What the maker of that epoxy?

[Anothernoob]

I had that little peice come unglued twice now. Both times I used 2 part epoxy.

I've repaired it a third time and haven't tested it yet. Be sure that you roughen up both the little plastic piece and especially the surface of the brass. The tubing is so smooth and un-pourus (sp?) that most glues will have a hard time sticking.

I used a dremel with a cutting wheel to LIGHTLY (so it doesnt go through the brass) put gooves horizontally in the brass and did the same to the plastic nub. I'm really hoping it grabs on this time!

[PvtMcFlurry]

I just wanted to let you guys know. I completed this mod about a week ago. I took 3 pieces of rectangular brass tubing I had lying around and cut them all to size and then welded them together. Then I welded that piece onto the brass and drilled a hole at the top to put the pin through. Hasn't failed and sure as hell hope it won't.

Here is my Longshot.

Edited by Pvt.McFlurry, 22 June 2007 - 09:26 AM.

[Dr Moose]

I used zap-a-gap ca+ on my longshot, and it has held up for four months.

[b00m13]

WHOO HOO THE MOD...ERATORS Finally activated my account!!

HELLO EVERYONE!!!


Gawd I've been waiting weeks for this,

ok um, hi people with the bolt not sticking to the copper problem,

I think I might have a solution to your prob.

It's easier to explain in a drawing so here goes:



hopefully that pic explained it clearly ^^;


OOh Angel guy, BIG FAN, I've watched all your vids on youtube (yours and Capt Slug cuz u guys have the best modded guns)

When I borrows my friend's LS to integrate it, I did the same thing you did with the fishing wire for the trigger mechanism, but might I suggest something. If you do the wire trigger technique, use some type of small tube to help guide the wire and protect the gun casing from the wire.
I mean, since the wire is SUPER String and thin, it's very sharp, if you use it enough time you'll eventually get it sliced into the gun and get it caught on something, or slice enough of the gun away that'll make the wire all loose and render it useless.
Since I don't have any small tubing with me, I used the next best thing to help guide my wires, CAPRI SUN STRAWS!!



just krazy glue it onto the lil cuts and holes you've made for it, then apply hotglue for a more secure fitting.

(PS I agree with Angel's decision not to use Dark Attack's coat hanger 's trigger mechanism, 'cuz it's time consuming, the wire will most likely just bend if you pull on the trigger since it's a COAT HANGER, and the only good way to make it work it by tempering the wire after you've twisted/bent it to the right form.)

Ah here's my friend's LS^2 (<---that reads LS Squared for Long Shot+Last Shot)

I kinda don't wanna give it back now T_T
He better appreciate all the work and money I put into it!!


PPS!!

Has anyone developed a way for rifling our barrels? (Where the inside of the tube has a spiral swirl which will force our bullets to spiral like a football when it exits the barrel)

[Carbon]

Has anyone developed a way for rifling our barrels? (Where the inside of the tube has a spiral swirl which will force our bullets to spiral like a football when it exits the barrel)

No...because rifling isn't a benefit to nerf darts. Do a search for it, it's been discussed at length.

[Dr Moose]

I use the "thin stuff", It is basically the same consistency as crazy glue. Also, I've never seen the zap-a-gap ca+ as "thick stuff."

[random360]

has anyone else experienced that as the 19/32 comes fowrard to grab the dart and push it into the barrel it bites into the dart below? because this happens to me about 9 times out of 10, and it causes the gun to jam. I have to pull the bolt back and forward, which often results in an aditional dart being loaded.

I've checked and rechecked, and I'm pretty sure I followed the instructions in the mod, so I think it must be a slight placement problem, but I'm not sure what it would be exactly.

Any ideas?

[Forsaken angel24]

Well, it sounds like you need to set your breech system a little higher. Try putting a couple pieces of E-tape under your breech system to raise it. This will prevent it from biting into the dart below. This only ever happened to me once in over 500 or so shots and that was because the dome on my dart was massive. Cool member # by the way.

[DartToTheHead]

Would these modifications work with PETG?

[Forsaken angel24]

Would these modifications work with PETG?

Sure, You would just have to custom order all the petg. Each piece of petg must slide smoothly in each other and the seal must be perfect. It would be very costly and expensive though.

[DartToTheHead]

Oh...I was considering it because it was supposed to be cheaper.
Nevermind then.

[Tofu]

I'd cut my plastic barrel to the length you had it to (I believe it was 1.09 in's) and my 17/32 wouldn't even fit in so I chopped down to right before the air hole. Now 19/32 slides in tightly. Did i cut it wrong or is it my brass?

[Forsaken angel24]

I have been getting a good amount of messages over the year from people who still do not understand the breech. This is the message I give everyone. I figure I would post it here to save me some trouble typing later.


The 9/16" is the barrel. This is on the left.
On the right with the plunger is the assembly of brass sizes.

First is 9/16" that fits perfectly in the old stock bolt. This is 2"
Then there is 17/32" that fits perfectly inside the 9/16" in the stock bolt. The 17/32" is also 2".

These 2" nubs are here for two reasons.

The first reason is now the 2" bit of 17/32" can hold the 1/2" brass in the center. The 1/2" acts as the "pusher" which moves the stefan from its position in the clip into the tightening rings. while still allowing airflow.

The second reason is the 2" bit of 9/16" can now have the 19/32" slide over it be secure in place.
The 19/32" is the breech closer. As the priming handle is moved forwards the 19/32" acts as a sheath for the 9/16" barrel creating an air tight seal.

The 19/32" is the sheath and the 1/2" is the pusher.

There are two sizes of difference between the 19/32" and the 1/2"
This creates more than enough room for the receiving lip part of the 9/16" barrel to slide in to when the priming handle is in the forward postion.

I hope this helps people. I may have to make a video on how to do the breech from scratch.

Tofu: I don't know if I ever read this message. It never came up in the "View new posts".
I do not believe you cut it wrong, I found on some of the newer longshots there is a ring of plastic on the inside so you will have to sand it down. So even 9/16" can go through.

Original Longshot video the way it was meant ot be seen. Quality wise.

Edited by Forsaken_angel24, 15 December 2007 - 01:12 PM.

[Tofu]

Tofu: I don't know if I ever read this message. It never came up in the "View new posts".
I do not believe you cut it wrong, I found on some of the newer longshots there is a ring of plastic on the inside so you will have to sand it down. So even 9/16" can go through.

Original Longshot video the way it was meant ot be seen. Quality wise.

Problem fixed and it is fineto. The idoits at the brass company labeled it the wrong size. It now being tested and with ONLY the stock spring I'm able to get 70 - 80 ft FLAT. I don't even know so dont ask. I plan to do some upgrades in a bit including a bbb spring addition.

Edited by Tofu, 16 December 2007 - 02:12 PM.

[Thom]

Thanks a lot, FSA! I'm planning to do this to two LSs before the spring semester starts, and I think I finally grok. What barrel length do you use, counting the part that receives the dart?

[AJAQ]

Thanks a lot, FSA! I'm planning to do this to two LSs before the spring semester starts, and I think I finally grok. What barrel length do you use, counting the part that receives the dart?

It looks like the barrel is right about 9.5-10.5 inches. That doesn't include the bolt length of piping, just from what used to be the dart tooth forward.

Barrel wise, I wouldn't go any further than 12 inches.

The better seal you have, the longer your barrel can be. (within reason, of course.)

Over the summer, I attempted to do a brass-bluntbolt replacement, but I had trouble securing the new brass bolt to the Blue frame.(It would hold for maybe 25 shots, then snap back off) How did you get yours attached FA?

[Lynx]

Thanks a lot, FSA! I'm planning to do this to two LSs before the spring semester starts, and I think I finally grok. What barrel length do you use, counting the part that receives the dart?

Thanks a lot, FSA! I'm planning to do this to two LSs before the spring semester starts, and I think I finally grok. What barrel length do you use, counting the part that receives the dart?

It looks like the barrel is right about 9.5-10.5 inches. That doesn't include the bolt length of piping, just from what used to be the dart tooth forward.

Barrel wise, I wouldn't go any further than 12 inches.

The better seal you have, the longer your barrel can be. (within reason, of course.)

Over the summer, I attempted to do a brass-bluntbolt replacement, but I had trouble securing the new brass bolt to the Blue frame.(It would hold for maybe 25 shots, then snap back off) How did you get yours attached FA?

PM FOR GODSAKES...

[Darin]

that rocks angel, ima try it, as my first mod rofl..and what was the song on the second video?


^^^^^^^^^^^^^

sorry for the "aim preferences" im just very used to it, forgot about the code of conduct.

also i remembered i'm not supposed to bump old topics, sorry!

Edited by Darin, 19 January 2008 - 05:03 PM.