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Here are the internals:
Now lets get to work.
As a simple boost in power you can cover this hole in the side of the barrel with e-tape.
Next we are going to remove the thin air restrictor. This thing is literally a small peice of metal that is fed through the tube from one side to the other. It is externally glued in place.
So yank out the AR with pliers or push it through to the bottom with a screwdriver. Now there is 2 holes in the sides of you plunger tube. Now plug up the holes in the side of the plunger tube with hot glue. This AR removal may only increase distance by a couple feet. But it my eyes any edge over the competition is good.
Next you are going to increase plunger seal. Wash the plunger head with soap and water then dry it off and wrap e-tape around it untill you get the perfect fit. Now I found that the plunger tube is thinner at the beginning then at the end so don't let that trick you. To also increase plunger seal find a lubricant that is safe on rubbers. I use O-ring lubricant. It is found in the plumbing section of your local hardware store. Mine come in little blue containers.
Next up I slapped a new barrel in there. Contrary to my normal mods where I push for distance and range, I decided to go with a gun that is best for stock darts but can also fire stefans as well. This is why I chose a very short peice of brass. The brass does not protrude from the stock barrel like many mods do. This new barrel sits flush inside the old one. To do the barrel replacement take 17/32" brass and cut it to the size you like and wrap E-tape around it untill it fits kinda snug in the stock barrel. Now pull out the brass and give it a good plumbers gooping around the e-tape points. Now slide it back in the barrel and clean up any excess goop.
Spring replacement: I went with a stronger industrial spring.
On the left is the spring I chose to use and on the right is the stock spring.
Now this next part is not original at all. I read it on another write up.
It is time to make the eagle eye cock in more of a LNL fashion.
You are going to drill a hole in the back of the plunger rod and knot some thin picture framing wire to it. Do a double knot on this stuff then pull it tight. Now drill a hole in the back of your eagle eye where the wire would come out of the gun like so.
Now make sure the hole is big enough for the picture wire to go through and tie a key ring on the otherside.
Whammo! Your gun now cocks from the back.
Now lets talk integrations.
Again I am pissed I did not have any spare AT2K's so I decided to integrate an AT3K into this puppy.
To prepare your shell for the integration you will need to rip out the light and all the electrical crap and cut/shave/sand down the highlighted areas.
Make sure you sand them down on both halves of the shell.
Now the AT3K pump tube was too big so I went with another pump and kept the air chamber/valve and orange tubing that came with the AT3K. I cannot remember where I got this pump from but it works perfect. I am assuming the pump tube from an AT2K would work as well.
So the pump tube is going to be hot glued into place right below the grooves where the plungers rod fits when cocked. right at the back you are going to drill a hole for the vinyl tubing to go through. Keep these holes as low as possible. Then the valve is going to be sitting right behind the screw port where the light used to be. Make sure you have enough tubing. Also make sure that the location of the pump tube isnt going to affect the catch of the gun. If it does affect the catch simply cut some of the pump tube off so there is more distance between the pump tube and the catch.
Now the sliding arm that usually would cock the gun is going to become your new pump!
Now cut off the end at the appropriate length and now epoxy the plunger head from the pump onto the old cocking arm. You want to be able to get a full pump. (At the beginning the plunger head should be in the plunger tube and at the end of the motion the plunger head should be hitting the plunger tubes wall at the back.) If you have done all this properly it should look like this.
I had to sand down some ridges because they were grinding at the pump tube. Yes I know it looks sloppy. I was able to get those little peices of plastic off for a clean look after this photo.
When it came to connecting the vinyl tubing from the AT3K to the other pump I got really lucky. The at3k vinyl tubing fit inside the pumps vinyl tubing perfectly. Of course I covered the vinyl tubing with plumbers goop just in case.
Now when it comes to positioning the pressure chamber I would suggest wrapping the PC with e-tape to help keep it snug in place. You may need to sand down the top rims of the eagle eye where the top peice would snap inside. Bend the valves firing pin into a "U" shape. Now hot glue the valve into place and make sure it is aiming straight. Now take out the red sighting peice and drill a hole straight through it. Make sure some 17/32" fits nice and snug through it and it is centered
Now plumbers goop the brass on the valve and wait at least 24 hours before test firing it.
I did not go with a long length of brass because I wanted this thing to look clean. and I only planned on using stock darts with this mod. If you want to choose a longer length than I would reccomend 6" of 9/16" brass.
If you have done all of this so far it should look like this. I figure this one photo should say it all:
The barrel looks a bit crooked on the top but I was able to fix that by merely pushing down on the top of the red sight adjuster.
You may also noticed I cut off that webbed part at the back of the eagle eye. I thought it would give it a more aesthetic look this way.
The eagle eye I had received was damaged and had only one good cocking arm so I decided to use this to my advantage. I covered up the hole in the other shell where the other side of the arm would normally protrude with long peices of a tape cassete. I also did a little bit of this on the other side. I also added foam everywhere to could to help silence the loud popping noise it makes sometimes. It did barely anything. I also added e-tape around the plunger tube to help prevent noise/vibration and again it barely did anything.
So thats it, all it needs now is a paint job and a demo video.
Paint job:
Demo Video:
Full screen this.
Ranges are good. I am guessing here. When aimed at a wall about 40 feet away I was able to hit it with both barrels. I would say that the Eagle eye can get 55 feet and the integrated AT3K can get 70-80 feet with a stock dart. If you were to use longer barrels and stefans the ranges would be even better. For that I would reccomend 5" of 17/32" for the Eagle eye and 6" of 9/16" with some light tightening rings at the back.
Comments? Questions? What do you guys think?
Edited by Forsaken_angel24, 26 December 2006 - 12:10 AM.
