Edited by SM750, 28 June 2007 - 07:46 AM.
Longshot Ar
#1
Posted 09 November 2006 - 03:13 PM
#2
Posted 09 November 2006 - 07:49 PM
Whats with you idiots and all these ancient god names? Call it FuckingPecan or something.
Mmmmmm.... Pie
#3
Posted 09 November 2006 - 08:41 PM
You have to take the gun completely apart, removing the plunger chamber and bolt which you cannot seperate from eachother. Unscrew the back plate of the plunger chamber to remove the plunger, and it may also help to push the little metal rod out of the bolt sled and bolt so you on;y have to manhandle the bolt and plunger chamber.
To remove the restrictor you have to drill out the back face of the bolt.
I used a flat-blade wood-boring drill bit because standard drill bits in larger sizes are not friendly with plastics and tend to get stuck. This type of drill bit is also MUCH cheaper to buy since they're 1/10th the cost of traditional drill bits of the same size ($3 as opposed to $30).
If I remember correctly I used a 5/8", then did some touch ups with an X-acto knife before plucking the restrictor and its spring out. Then I covered up the overpressure hole in the top of the bolt bolt from the inside using a small piece of aluminum ducting tape.
Edited by CaptainSlug, 09 November 2006 - 08:44 PM.
#5
Posted 09 November 2006 - 08:58 PM
You drill out the rear of the bolt (the part that the plunger face slams into every time you fire) so that you can pluck the spring-loaded restrictor part out through the plunger chamber. Therefore removing the peg (which is glued to the inside of the bolt) is optional.SO there is no way to remove the air restrictor and keep the Post for the stock darts?
Edited by CaptainSlug, 09 November 2006 - 08:59 PM.
#6
Posted 09 November 2006 - 09:25 PM
To remove the restrictor you have to drill out the back face of the bolt.
I used a flat-blade wood-boring drill bit because standard drill bits in larger sizes are not friendly with plastics and tend to get stuck. This type of drill bit is also MUCH cheaper to buy since they're 1/10th the cost of traditional drill bits of the same size ($3 as opposed to $30).
If I remember correctly I used a 5/8", then did some touch ups with an X-acto knife before plucking the restrictor and its spring out. Then I covered up the overpressure hole in the top of the bolt bolt from the inside using a small piece of aluminum ducting tape.
I wish I would have known about that earlier. I used a regular drill bit to drill the AR out, and it was a serious pain in the ass.
Probably dead by now, or something.
#7
Posted 09 November 2006 - 09:27 PM
I don't feel the way I used to do.
I know its bad,
After what we had,
But I’m just not the angel you knew.
#8
Posted 09 November 2006 - 09:56 PM
picture of a hemostat:
#9
Posted 10 November 2006 - 01:03 AM
#10
Posted 10 November 2006 - 01:17 AM
#11
Posted 10 November 2006 - 01:56 AM
#12
Posted 14 November 2006 - 01:11 PM
Whats with you idiots and all these ancient god names? Call it FuckingPecan or something.
Mmmmmm.... Pie
#13
Posted 14 November 2006 - 01:20 PM
If I misunderstood what post he was talking about, someone correct me.
Edited by Falcon, 14 November 2006 - 01:21 PM.
#14
Posted 14 November 2006 - 05:36 PM
Cthulhu, you don't need the post to fire stock darts. Just because there's a hole in the dart doesn't mean the barrel post needs to be there.
If I misunderstood what post he was talking about, someone correct me.
Some of my guns have trouble keeping modified stock darts loaded and they just get spat out unless I leave the post in the gun. Also I have yet to find FBR that has a good fit it is all way too fat or way too thin. So I tend to stick with modifying the stock darts especially with the longshot because it has such an intricate internal design. Not to mention a pain in the ass to put back together. Anyways leaving it in never hurt either.
Whats with you idiots and all these ancient god names? Call it FuckingPecan or something.
Mmmmmm.... Pie
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