Here's the template, diagram, and basic instruction sheet for making a Rev. 1 foregrip.
Simply print the page out on a full sheet label paper and you can apply the labels as cutting templates to the plastic sheet you're working with. More detailed instructions available below.
+ 3/16" polycarbonate sheet (cheapest, most durable, lightest, and easiest to machine material I can recommend)
+ #8-32 threaded rod cut to (2) 3.5" lengths or 4-inch length #8-32 bolts
+ (4) Nylon-lock #8-32 hex nuts
+ 1-1/4" neoprene or steel fender washers (need quite a few or either kind)
+ Power drill or Drillpress
+ Scrollsaw or Jigsaw
+ File\Rasp (for filing down the cut sections of threaded rod)
+ IPS Weld-on #3 or #4
+ Tapping Set
1. First I measured the travel distance of the bolt, which is inbetween 3.25" and 3.5" depending on how tight your spring replacement is.
2. I made a paper template marking where I needed to drill the holes and what shape I wanted to cut the piece out in.
3. I then made two identical pieces out of 3/16" polycarbonate sheet using a drillpress and scrollsaw.
4. Then I made a foregrip which keeps the two plates spaced apart and squared, while also acting as an effective foregrip with a guard to keep my hand forward of where the foregrip moves too while priming the bolt (fairly close to the front of the magazine).
The foregrip is simply made out of more sheets of polycarbonate adhered together using a solvent adhesive (IPS Weld-On #3)
5. I cut two 3.5" lengths of #8-32 threaded rod and used a good number of 1" wide steel washers to space the side plates off of the casing and then used nylon-lock hex nuts to link them to the bolt sled and main shell.
You will need a 1/4" think stack of washers inbetween the side panels of the foregrip and the body shell back near the bolt. Towards the front of the gun you will need a 1/8" thick stack of washers inbetween the two. Althernative you could use Nylon spacers provided their walls are thick enough to support the foregrip.
6. Then I painted the parts and tested them.
The end result provides MUCH more leverage for priming the bolt since you are pushing on both side of the bolt at the same time. The spring replacement/addition mod combined with this one makes for a much more comfortable weapon that also has a higher rate of fire since you don't have to change your hand holds to prime the gun.
I'm going to make a set of assembly diagrams and cutting templates in the next day or so to make it more clear how the rest of you can make your own. I also plan to add one or two decorative plates to the side plates just because I want to give them as much depth as the stock body.
For Revision 3 kit plans see post #90
Edited by CaptainSlug, 24 April 2007 - 10:11 PM.