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My Longshot Mod.

Integration, added features, Restrictor Removal.

19 replies to this topic

#1 ShadowSniper

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Posted 15 August 2006 - 11:24 PM

Ok, normally I wouldn't do this, but I did several new things to my Longshot other than restrictor removal.

1. I Removed the Restrictor leaving the post in.
2. I sleaved copper pipe into the stock barrel to improve accuracy.
3. I added a NF spring and added another o-ring.
4. I cut another hole in the back so the stock now has 3 positions
5. I integrated an AT3k into the area where the Bipod usually is.

On to the good stuff.

A. I pried off the bolt using a hammer claw, came off really easy, then I opened er' up.

B. After opening the case I took out the barrel and hotglued a piece of copper pipe with the ends beveled into it hoping to increase accuracy.
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C. Then I drilled out the air restrictor via dremel
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D. Added the NF spring and the O-ring (Note: The extra oring made the seal very tight.)
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E. Used the Dremel again to drill an extra hole in the back for a third stock position. (It did work)
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F. Image is a little blurry, but this shows the cuts I made in the case for the AT3K parts.
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G. AT3K Integration part.
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H. Finished.
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I. Stefan Clip. I made a bunch stefans the same length as the stock darts.
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Okay, after I finished all of the modifications, I took it outside to test ranges. These are fired from shoulder height straight ahead, no arc. The only problem with ranges is that there is a slight incline heading away from me. ( me_,.-* not as steep but basic idea)

Also, Accuracy was horrible, I got alot of spin on the darts that I beleive was caused by the copper in the barrel. (I'll take it out whenever I get the chance)

Main Gun

Stock Darts
10'
30'
60'
63'
68'
87'

Micro Stefans
25'
30'
31'
39'
31'
87+ (Went farther than the farthest stock dart, but I lost it)

AT3K Integration (Shot using 2 pumps)

Stock Darts
60'
65'
70'
72'
83.5'

Micro Stefans (Same ones as above)
68'
70'
76'
82'
89'

The At3K part got much better accuracy than the main gun and I am very happy with it.
All in all, I like this, gets much better ranges than stock and now has a pretty cool backup/long range gun attached to it. If I could go back and change something, I would not put that stupid copper pipe in there.

Edited by ShadowSniper, 15 August 2006 - 11:25 PM.

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#2 SPU-Nerf

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Posted 15 August 2006 - 11:35 PM

Nice work.
How hard is it to cock the gun with the NF spring in there?
Also did you keep the spring presser nub in the receiver?
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#3 ShadowSniper

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Posted 15 August 2006 - 11:58 PM

It's a bit harder to pull, but nothing major.

And, yes, I left that in there.
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#4 echo104b

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Posted 16 August 2006 - 12:08 AM

I put a NF spring in my Longshot. It didnt help the range at all. in fact, it hurt it a little. Plus it made a hell of a lot of noise.

I did notice that you streched yours out. so i guess that would help with the Noise issue.

As far as the Accuracy goes, thats not your barrell.

it's your darts. The stock darts that come with the Longshot Suck. and i mean not just a little. they had to invent a new level of suck to define these things

my advice, Put a BB or 2 into the head of the Streamline darts, than use a little Hotglue and plug up the hole on the side. that should really help your accuracy. Certainly helped with mine.

The AT3k integration is really interesting. I'll have to try that with my AT2K. anything will be better than the pice of crap the front gun is.

thanks for posting this :D
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#5 flashflint

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Posted 16 August 2006 - 10:30 AM

Has anyone taken the barrel post out of the LS? If you did could you tell me how it worked?
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#6 Ronster

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Posted 16 August 2006 - 11:08 AM

I had that idea of adding a thrid hole for an extra position on the stock.
Coolness.
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#7 elf avec gun

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Posted 16 August 2006 - 12:27 PM

Has anyone else noticed that if you take one of the stock darts and drop it down the front of the barrel it goes all the way down?!?!
Also great idea with the extra stock positions. And on an overall great job.
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#8 Ryan201821

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Posted 16 August 2006 - 12:31 PM

Has anyone taken the barrel post out of the LS? If you did could you tell me how it worked?


You don't need to keep it. I just took mine out.
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#9 flashflint

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Posted 16 August 2006 - 12:56 PM

You don't need to keep it. I just took mine out.


And it dident hurt preformance at all?

Also, how do you keep the dart from going into the plunger tube?
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#10 funkyjake

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Posted 16 August 2006 - 01:48 PM

Any idea how it is that adding a better barrel hurt your performance so much? This worries me a bit, especially as I just epoxied in a long brass barrel in my LS. :D
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#11 Lancaster

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Posted 16 August 2006 - 03:17 PM

Any idea how it is that adding a better barrel hurt your performance so much? This worries me a bit, especially as I just epoxied in a long brass barrel in my LS. :D



Try that out would you? I'm considering brassing mine and wouldn't mind seeing the results before I do.

Also, I was test firing a NF I just brassed, and the streamlines get consistently 10' more than regular micros.

Edited by Lancaster, 16 August 2006 - 03:18 PM.

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#12 ShadowSniper

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Posted 16 August 2006 - 04:38 PM

Well, I took out the stopper thing, Its just before the barrel, and glued two things I noticed were causing problems. The first one was just after the plunger plunger tube where there was a little hole before the loading area where it was losing pressure. I also glues shut the hole the stopper thing was in. Also took out the copper barrel for a brass one. Fixed a couple of aesthetic problems and now everything works fine. Getting way better accuracy and I haven't taken ranges yet but I'd say around 80' on average.
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#13 flashflint

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Posted 16 August 2006 - 04:51 PM

ShadowSniper, did you have any trouble removeing the bolt? How did you do it?
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#14 ShadowSniper

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Posted 16 August 2006 - 04:56 PM

What do you mean by "bolt" if your talking about the tube that goes from the plunger thing to the barrel, I left it attached to the plunger thing. All I did was plug the little hole in it. If your talking about the thing between the tube and barrel that pops up and doesn't allow a dart to go into the barrel until you fire, I just unscrewed the two screws that were holding it and the spring in and took it out, then plugged up the hole where it went. If you mean the barrel post, I left that in.
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#15 flashflint

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Posted 16 August 2006 - 05:02 PM

Sorry bad wording. I ment the cocking handle.
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#16 ShadowSniper

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Posted 16 August 2006 - 05:04 PM

No, no problem at all, I just stuck a flathead scewdriver between the orange part and the main body, then applied pressure, it popped right off withought a hitch.
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#17 flashflint

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Posted 16 August 2006 - 05:06 PM

Thanks I was worried about getting that off.
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#18 sam

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Posted 16 August 2006 - 05:42 PM

What size brass did you use?
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#19 General Cole

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Posted 18 August 2006 - 09:22 AM

To get my handle off I took a flathead screwdriver and pried up, but that was causing cracks and weak points in the plastic so I used some of those cotton pads to stop the cracking and it worked fine. Oh, yeah I put in a BBB spring and the thing is a monster to cock. My problem is that the pressure is so great that when pulling back the stock flies forward. What kind of springs did you guys use for your LSs?
We should stop calling out/making fun of/pissing GC off. He's actually contributed and is available for trade. He's a better than average member no doubt. Got your back Cole.
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You know what... I know it's kinda late... but Props Cole.
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#20 sam

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Posted 18 August 2006 - 02:06 PM

Well for springs people have used:
-BBB spring, trimmed and not trimmed, with and without stock LS spring. I think trimmed BBB spring with the stock spring is the best way to use a BBB spring.
-DT3 arrow shooter spring, trimmed I believe, without the stock spring. Ryan201821 used this one. This is the spring upgrade I think I'm going to try since it seems to be a good upgrade without putting a lot of pressure on the plunger.
-NF springs, either stock spring or Heavy NF upgrade spring. It makes a lot of noise since it isn't long enough.
I suppose you could use an x-bow spring too, since it is similar in size to the DT3 spring and the BBB spring.
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